Chain - To Change or Not to Change...

[tantrumbean]

Just measured my chain on my mountain bike with the park tool thingy and it's dropping in all the way on the 0.75, still fine on the 1.0.

Now, I know in theory that indicates it's time to change the chain now, but so far it doesn't seem to cause any problems.

Would a new chain definitely work with the old cassette? I have used some gears far more than others, so worried that the new chain might end up jumping anyway...(the old one has done about 3,000 miles). Spoke to the lbs over the phone to book the bike in for a service, they said they recommend always changing cassette and chain at the same time - but that means looking at about £50 instead of £10. Problem is, they say the only way to find out if it will slip if only the chain is changed, is to go on a long ride, but with Amsterdame only 2 weeks away and the shop only open while I'm at work, I run the risk of not getting the bike back in there to get it sorted before we leave in case there is a problem (and probably end up paying another chunk of labour charges).

Just wondering if it might be cheaper to ride it into the ground completely and change cassette and change at the same time, but apparently I risk damaging the chainrings as well if I leave it too long.

I probably should be able to do all this myself, but really don't feel confident about it, plus I want to make sure the bike has been checked over professionally before setting off for 250 miles, so lbs it is and the dilemma remains.

What do you think? Change chain only and risk slippage? Change both when they might still be fine for some time and possibly pay a lot of money unnecessarily? Leave it and risk causing damage to the chainrings as well?

I'm stuck - please help!

[redrhodie]

If it was me, I'd leave it until there was an issue.

[indysteel]

I'd change just the chain. If you change it now, you'll get more life out of your cassette.

Obviously, if it skips on your most-used cogs under heavy pressure, you'll also need a new cassette, but I'll be surprised if you do if it only has 3k miles on it.

As you can see, I don't subscribe to the idea that you need to change both at the same time. It's overkill in my experience.

[lunacycles]

If it shows any sign of stretch, replace the chain. If you wait til there's a problem, there will likely be lots of them, e.g., you may need to replace the cassette, chainrings, etc., as you mentioned. A chain is, what, twenty bucks? The whole system wears together. Changing the chain frequently keeps all your parts happy much longer and saves you money in the long run.

Telling you that it is likely you will need to replace the cassette when you replace the chain is not necessarily true. 3K miles is a good time to do it and chances are you will not have other issues. If you change it and do have other wear issues, you will know right away, and can replace the necessary rear cogs in plenty of time.

[Pedal Wench]

If it shows any sign of stretch, replace the chain. If you wait til there's a problem, there will likely be lots of them, e.g., you may need to replace the cassette, chainrings, etc., as you mentioned. A chain is, what, twenty bucks? The whole system wears together. Changing the chain frequently keeps all your parts happy much longer and saves you money in the long run.

Telling you that it is likely you will need to replace the cassette when you replace the chain is not necessarily true. 3K miles is a good time to do it and chances are you will not have other issues. If you change it and do have other wear issues, you will know right away, and can replace the necessary rear cogs in plenty of time.

What she said!

[ny biker]

I just had this chat with the LBS wrench on Saturday. That Park took almost drops in at .75 on my chain. He said technically I could wait to replace the chain but if I did it at .75 I would be able to only replace the chain rather than having to replace the cassette, too.