Pedal Install Tools

[Miranda]

Which tool do you use to install pedals? Such as a Look Keo?

I have a 15mm Park Pedal wrench ordered to arrive that is in the link below...

http://www.parktool.com/products/det...27&item=PW%2D3


But, now I'm thinking maybe this will not work on the Keos? Should I have gotten a 8mm Hex wrench instead? Like the one in this link...

http://www.parktool.com/products/det...=7&item=HR%2D8

Also, on cleats...

All I own right now is my bike multitool that's in my saddle bag with small wrenches. I think my current spd mtb cleat takes a 4mm, and the Keo takes a 3mm.

I considered buying this Park hex triangle tool for cleats due to better leverage. Didn't know if would be worth it. Unfortunately, it looks like the 3mm and 4mm don't come on the same triangle.

Park hex triangle tool....
3mm
http://www.parktool.com/products/det...7&item=AWS%2D3

4mm
http://www.parktool.com/products/det...7&item=AWS%2D8


I know pedals are suppose to be hard to get off. Though, when I have watched it done, it literally takes a few minutes. Well, with the right hands and a proper tool. My ploy is to become more self sufficient.

I hear grease can work wonders in helping ladies with weak hands work on their own bikes? I really hope I can do it. Any tips would be appreciated.

Oh btw... I decided after a lot of TE reading that if I was going to own tools, I would invest in the Park brand... that the quality is suppose to be worth the extra $ ???... so, I hope anyway.

Thanks!
Miranda

[OakLeaf]

You're correct. Look Keos do not have a flat 15 mm attachment. They come off with an 8 mm hex on the inside of the crankarm.

A hex key will not give you enough leverage to take them off. You'll need a socket and a long handle. A breaker bar will give you more leverage, a flex head or universal joint will give you better angles to maneuver around the frame. If they're on good and tight, don't be shy about asking someone else to hold the opposite crankarm so you can use both hands on the breaker. I know I can't do it by myself, and I consider myself pretty strong. It's just awkward to do it by yourself, since you have to reach through the frame and exert a considerable amount of force... and the opposite crankarm is as long as it is, and you can't make it longer to get more leverage on that side. If you cheat and use a pneumatic driver, make sure you cushion your hold on the opposite crankarm with a folded shop rag or something.

The other very important thing to remember is that since you're going in from the opposite side, you're actually pushing THROUGH the crankarm to remove the pedal, in the direction that would ordinarily be "tightening" for the respective thread orientation. So as you look at the Allen head on the inside of the crankarm, looking through the frame, you're going to turn the right pedal spindle clockwise to remove it, and the left pedal counterclockwise.

Park is pretty much THE brand when it comes to bike-specific tools, but when you're talking about "regular" tools like sockets, screwdrivers and hex drivers, Craftsman tools are a lot more easily available, pretty economical, and guaranteed for life (e.g. when you round off a driver or let your feeler gauges rust all you have to do is bring it back to Sears for a free replacement, no questions no receipt needed). Not made in the USA any more though. And I'm not familiar with Park's whole line, but it may be that they don't make some "regular" tools that are very handy for working on bikes (like the ball-head long Allen socket I used to take off my brake levers the other day).

HTH.

[lunacycles]

Park is great because they are reasonably economical (compared to some brands), good quality, been around forever it seems, and made in the U.S.A.

Also, I really don't like it when manufacturers don't provide the 15mm faces for removing pedals the traditional way (from the outside), although it is happening more and more. Not only do you have to buy a new tool, but it can be a little hairy removing pedals from the inside of the crankarm--very easy to bang your knuckles on chainrings, for example. Don't ask me how I know this.

[Miranda]

Park is great because they are reasonably economical (compared to some brands), good quality, been around forever it seems, and made in the U.S.A.

Also, I really don't like it when manufacturers don't provide the 15mm faces for removing pedals the traditional way (from the outside), although it is happening more and more. Not only do you have to buy a new tool, but it can be a little hairy removing pedals from the inside of the crankarm--very easy to bang your knuckles on chainrings, for example. Don't ask me how I know this.

Yea, that is kinda rough needing diff tools for diff brands. It must be a plot to just sell more tools in the world somewhere.

I've already been having mental imaginary of how my hands are going to fair cranking the tool. Crud.... I wish Park had an option to click buy on a temporary "bike boy" with the tools... for the manly strength. Then, UPS could take him back for the next customer when done.

[Miranda]

You're correct. Look Keos do not have a flat 15 mm attachment. They come off with an 8 mm hex on the inside of the crankarm.

A hex key will not give you enough leverage to take them off. You'll need a socket and a long handle. A breaker bar will give you more leverage, a flex head or universal joint will give you better angles to maneuver around the frame. If they're on good and tight, don't be shy about asking someone else to hold the opposite crankarm so you can use both hands on the breaker. I know I can't do it by myself, and I consider myself pretty strong. It's just awkward to do it by yourself, since you have to reach through the frame and exert a considerable amount of force... and the opposite crankarm is as long as it is, and you can't make it longer to get more leverage on that side. If you cheat and use a pneumatic driver, make sure you cushion your hold on the opposite crankarm with a folded shop rag or something.

The other very important thing to remember is that since you're going in from the opposite side, you're actually pushing THROUGH the crankarm to remove the pedal, in the direction that would ordinarily be "tightening" for the respective thread orientation. So as you look at the Allen head on the inside of the crankarm, looking through the frame, you're going to turn the right pedal spindle clockwise to remove it, and the left pedal counterclockwise.

Park is pretty much THE brand when it comes to bike-specific tools, but when you're talking about "regular" tools like sockets, screwdrivers and hex drivers, Craftsman tools are a lot more easily available, pretty economical, and guaranteed for life (e.g. when you round off a driver or let your feeler gauges rust all you have to do is bring it back to Sears for a free replacement, no questions no receipt needed). Not made in the USA any more though. And I'm not familiar with Park's whole line, but it may be that they don't make some "regular" tools that are very handy for working on bikes (like the ball-head long Allen socket I used to take off my brake levers the other day).

HTH.

OAKLEAF....

Thank you so much for the explanation! I know where my thread is for reference when I'm ready to get at it. I do own a bike mechanics book now. I had some coupons for in store stock at Borders so I didn't get the Park book at the moment (it was not a stock book, special order). It was one Bike mag puts out: Bicycle Maintenance & Repair author Todd Downs.

I think this is the Park hex with the handle and socket I need....
http://www.biketiresdirect.com/ppthr...nch_8mm/pp.htm

This was in the pedal hex tools too by Pedros. It looks like a nice handle, but I don't know if it's as strong or good of a quality?
http://www.biketiresdirect.com/ppehp..._driver/pp.htm

I like the thought of Sears tools and lifetime replacement. I am not very dainty with my stuff.

[lunacycles]

What about a type of grease to help get the pedals off?

Unless there is a lot of corrosion on your bike in other areas, chances are the pedals are just tight because that is how they get, and whoever installed them probably put his all into it. Grease won't help to remove them. (However, grease the threads heavily before reinstalling them!) If there is corrosion, you can try a penetrating solvent like "liquid wrench."
The Park "anti-seize" compound you provided the url for is actually for preventing galvanic corrosion, a phenomenon that occurs when two metals of a different alloy come into contact with each other (like titanium and steel).

What you more likely need is more leverage, or a better way to position your body so you use IT as leverage. This was one of my favorite things to show women in bike maintenance classes. With pedals, it often helps to position yourself next to the bike with one arm going over or through the bike, with one hand on the opposing crank arm, holding it in place while you try to loosen the pedal on the opposite side with your other arm. There is no part on a bike that women can't loosen/tighten if they know how to best position the tool and their body behind that tool for maximum leverage. Also, make sure your body is out of the way should the pedal break free suddenly. Again, don't ask me how I know this

[aicabsolut]

This thread is full of some great info. The thing I like least about my KEOs is the removal.

[Andrea]

Even if it takes something like a breaker bar to remove your pedals, don't be tempted into cranking those suckers back on there like mad. Remember, they're made to be going in the "tightening" direction as you pedal, so you don't have to torque them excessively when you re-install.

[Miranda]

What about a type of grease to help get the pedals off?
Here is a link to a Park product that says it's suppose to make getting tight parts on like pedals easier on and off. While I already have the tools in my shopping basket...

http://www.biketiresdirect.com/pptas...ompound/pp.htm