My own Brooks Question: Problems with Springs

[Blueberry]

I have a regular B17 on my Cross Check, and have been quite happy with it (even up to to 80+ mile rides). I purchased a Flyer (sprung version of the B17) from Wallbike for the back of the tandem. My hope was that the springs would help dampen out the inevitable bumps that one feels on the back of a tandem, and I can't get comfy on the darned thing. We had a hard time getting my knee position right, and a new seatpost finally solved that. However, I think the springs may be causing the problem - or at least are making it impossible for me to get a good position that stays a good position as the saddle moves. I get it to a comfy position, and every time we go over a bump, the girly bits get mashed. Plus, for an unknown reason, the the backs of my legs/butt go numbish. Hard to tell how much of it is the saddle and how much of it is that I'm on the back of a tandem and not taking breaks necessarily when I normally would. And that doesn't even start on the creaking - but I know there are solutions out there for that - I just won't bother if I can't get comfy.

Anybody had a similar experience? Any advice to offer? Unfortunately, we can't go with a suspended seatpost/regular Brooks due to the setback required.

Many thanks!!

CA

[KnottedYet]

My sprung B67 told me to pass this info on to your sprung Flyer.

Mashing bits: When you go over bumps the springs compress, and for that moment the cantle end of the saddle is lower than the nose. It's as though you had set your regular B17 with the nose tipped up. (ouch) Try tipping the nose of the Flyer down slightly compared to your B17.

Tight leather: if you think the mashing might be because the leather is too new, beat on it with your hand or a rolling pin or something. (I've done that with the noses of my Brooks saddles.)

Creaking: Run some Boeshield or other oil into every bit of the nose shackle. There's a little ball joint in a cup at the very front of the shackle, be sure to oil that, too. While the saddle is still upside-down, see if you can make the creaking noise. Apply more oil to the spring area if that seems to be noisy. Follow with grease. (and if you get rid of the creak for a couple years, don't then go and toss your bike on the front rack of a city bus for 20 miles in the rain... cuz the damm creak will come back!!!!!)

Mimi rides on the back of their tandem with a sprung Brooks. I'm sure she'll be along with better info!

[Blueberry]

Hmmm.....

I don't think it's new leather - the B17 was comfortable from day 1 - things that should be supported were and nothing got mashed. Unless the springs necessitate softer leather.

By B17 would show as level (pretty much) if you looked at the back and the nose. So, I'd have to have the Flyer nosed down. I'll play with it again, but last time I tried it, I ended up with way too much weight on my hands (the rear of this tandem is a challenge to fit anyway).

Thankfully, I have a month and a half to play before I hit 6 months (we put the saddles on the bike, and then did lots of other work to it, so we haven't actually ridden it all that much...).

Thanks for the suggestions

CA

[mimitabby]

I have nothing to add, except Knot is all wises and make sure the seat is properly adjusted.

[BleeckerSt_Girl]

Warning: I might be wrong, but I think I recall that the return policy is nullified if you rub oil or anything other than PrufHyde into your new saddle. Better check first before 'tenderizing' the saddle with baseball bats or rubbing oil into it.

[KnottedYet]

Nah, nah, the oil is for the metal hardware UNDER the saddle, not the leather! My goodness!!!!!

The creak on my B67 was from the frame, and Bill at Wallingford gave me step by step instructions (same as I just gave) for dealing with the creak.

If your B17 is horizontal from nose to back, yeah, you might want to put the nose of the Flyer down for a test-ride. Try leveling the nose only. The back will stick up higher than the nose at that point.

If the leather isn't so hard that it's the source of your mashed-bits pain, then there certainly is no point in working the leather with your hands to soften it under the bits.