How much should bike maintenance cost per year?

[lauraelmore1033]

So, I’m wondering how much y’all spend per year on bike maintenance? My “new” bike (purchased last july, I think) just went into the shop for it’s 3000 mile checkup (really only has 2700 miles on it). The estimate for the recommended replacement of chain, cassette, front rings and brake pads is over $300 (almost a quarter of the original cost of the bike). This will also be the 3rd chain I’ve replaced (at $27 a pop) and the 2nd new set of brake pads (at $16 a pop). The P.O.S. tires that came with the bike had to be replaced almost immediately with Armadillo tires (due to an excess of flats, say 8-10 at $5 a pop) , and then again when they were trashed as some a$$ hat just had to sprinkle wood screws in the bike lane for me to run over. Adding in the cost of a full tune up ($65) and lube and wash and such, this all adds up to nearly $600 for the year so far. That’s half the cost of the bike! Am I doing something wrong? What kinds of costs do you ladies incur? I guess it’s still cheaper than maintaining a car…

[Blueberry]

So, I’m wondering how much y’all spend per year on bike maintenance? My “new” bike (purchased last july, I think) just went into the shop for it’s 3000 mile checkup (really only has 2700 miles on it). The estimate for the recommended replacement of chain, cassette, front rings and brake pads is over $300 (almost a quarter of the original cost of the bike). This will also be the 3rd chain I’ve replaced (at $27 a pop) and the 2nd new set of brake pads (at $16 a pop). The P.O.S. tires that came with the bike had to be replaced almost immediately with Armadillo tires (due to an excess of flats, say 8-10 at $5 a pop) , and then again when they were trashed as some a$$ hat just had to sprinkle wood screws in the bike lane for me to run over. Adding in the cost of a full tune up ($65) and lube and wash and such, this all adds up to nearly $600 for the year so far. That’s half the cost of the bike! Am I doing something wrong? What kinds of costs do you ladies incur? I guess it’s still cheaper than maintaining a car…

That seems very frequent for chain replacement - mine usually make it ~1500-2000 miles before they're nearing the danger area. If you're replacing the chains that often, your chainrings and cassette shouldn't need work. That also seems quick to be replacing brake pads - but I wouldn't skimp there. I lube and wash my own bike, so no costs for that Hard to say what the average is for me - riding is spread out over ~4 bikes + the tandem, and my mileage recently has been sporadic at best.

CA

[kat_h]

How much of that cost is for the parts and how much is labour? Would you be comfortable with doing some of the work yourself?

[SadieKate]

Who is telling you that you need to replace the chain, cassette, CRANKS(?), etc. at 3,000 miles. This is ridiculous. Why have you already replaced the chain so frequently? A dirty chain or cassette attracts dirt and wears faster, but two times already?

Each flat costs you $5? Um, have you tried patching the tubes? Wood screws could decimate most tires so flats after that are not surprising. If we are motivated, we change the tube on the road and patch the old tube in the comforts of home.

[SouthernBelle]

I've still got my original chain and it has probably 45-5000 miles on it. Every once in a while I'll have them measure it and otherwise check it out. I certainly have no problems shifting. In January I had a good maintenance done. Got new cables, etc. I think that ran me around $100. I'll go through anywhere from 5-10 tubes a year plus a set of tires.

Your costs sound way out of bounds. & I really don't understand the need for a new chain and cassette very often.

[smilingcat]

You are replacing far more frequently than necessary.

Even a semi-serious racer type who tend to stress the equipment will not be changing the chains that often. A skinny hyper-glide chain used on 10speed cogs (dura ace, ultegra) will need replacement maybe every 2000-3000 mile.

If you don't ride through mud, through sand on the beach, your chain should last you more than 3000 miles. A recreational rider could probably get away for 4000 miles or more.

No need to replace the chain ring!

brake pad should be replaced when they are worn or after two years or so. time limit is because the rubber compund on the pads gets physically old but I've regularly kept them for like 4 years at a time with many many more thousands of miles.

Your 2000-3000 miles per year is still considered recreational, so go to some other bike shop for a tune up. Have them check the "stretch" of the chain. It's probably fine. If it is fine, no need to replace the clusters or the chain ring.

sheesh!! taking advantage of you!
Smilingcat

[aicabsolut]

That is ridiculous. If you wipe down and relube your chain, um, ever, it should last you a pretty long time. If you're replacing this often, your cassette and rings should be pristine! Maybe your cassette could be worn if you're bad about doing your own maintenance, but your rings? Seriously?

I'm on my original chain and cassette, and it's been over 5000 miles. I had the shop check it in late October when it went in for its belated 1-year. Fine. Checked again at the end of March when I transferred components to a new frame. Fine. I even measured it last week because I was having some shifting issues, and I wanted to be sure that it wasn't the chain's fault. Fine. I do long rides. I race. I do, however, take ridiculously good care of my drivetrain, especially since I encounter a fair amount of sand and grit on my training rides. The chain is starting to look a bit worn in a few spots, so I will probably have it checked again next month.

Brake pads all depend on the wear. My shop usually just throws them in with the typical tuneup. So far, all of my tunes have been free. I got a year of service free with the first bike, and when I transferred components to the new bike, they checked everything, replaced pads, etc. as part of the build cost. I have only had to buy new cables and housing, which I do about once a year, unless they get damaged in a crash.

I've seen tuneups that are more expensive than your base $65 price, but they will at least include new brake pads.

I would find a new shop ASAP.

[OakLeaf]

What are you doing as far as chain maintenance? I suppose it's possible you could be wearing them out that quick if you're not regularly cleaning and lubing them, especially if your bike's stored in a damp garage? Have you measured the chains yourself before you got them replaced?

I just measured my chain at 2500 miles and it was showing some wear, but not quite ready for replacement. After this weekend (heavy rain, then 30 miles on a dry chain), I probably will ask the LBS to replace it when I bring it in for a tuneup in a couple of weeks.

Chainrings every fourth chain is probably about right, but it's the four chains in 2700 miles that doesn't sound right. Are the teeth of your chainrings worn?

How is it that a flat costs you $5? You're not replacing the tube every time you flat, are you? Get a patch kit!

Are your brake pads at the limit of their pad material?

You should learn to check for wear yourself. Not just so you don't get taken advantage of, but so you do know to replace things before they become a hazard or a bigger problem.

[Grog]

The others have covered a lot of the points, however I'd like to add this:

I love bike shops and I want them to remain open, thus they need to make some money. I understand why they offer "packaged" tune-ups to their clients, but I'll never take one.

Here is a chart, with my comments, from a local Vancouver bike shop that I usually find a bit expensive for their services and products:

Blessing: $15.00

Sometimes you just need someone to have a look at your bike and make sure it’s safe to ride, especially if it’s been sitting for a while!

* We inspect and inflate the tires to the proper pressure and lube your chain
* Do a complete safety inspection
* Make sure the brakes are in good working order; the wheels aren’t loose; the handlebars are straight; the gears are working; the handlebars and stem are tight; and that nothing is broken!

I can pump up my tires and lube my chain, thanks.

I can do a safety inspection, check my brakes, wheels, handlebars, gears, etc.

Basic Tune: $29.99

Everything in the Blessing plus:

* Check and adjust the headset
* Check and adjust all bearings
* Inspect all cables and housings
* Inspect and adjust gears
* Inspect and adjust brakes
* Inspect rims and spokes and true wheels on the bike
* Inspect and tighten all fasteners
* Clean and lube chain

If my headset is loose, I'll ask them to fix it if I am worried I am not doing it right.

All of my bearings are sealed.

I can inspect my own cables and housings. Generally if it's not braking or shifting properly I'll look into that.

If my gears or brakes are out of wack, I'll ask them to do that. It's $6 for gears and $4 for brakes.

I inspect my wheels quickly before every ride, and in detail when I clean my bike. I pay attention when I ride. If it's untrue I'll ask them to true it (variable cost but seldom more than $15 if I've noticed it early enough - and it doesn't happen more than once every other year - but I'm a very light rider). Sometimes I'll be in for gears or something like that and the shop guy will say "I think your front wheel needs to be trued," and I'll say "go ahead!"

I can inspect and tighten my fasterners.

Geez, I can clean and lube my bike, too!!!

Comprehensive: $49.99

Everything in the Blessing and Basic Tune plus:

* Inspect and adjust bottom bracket
* Inspect and adjust front and rear hubs
* Wipe your entire bike clean
* True wheels on the truing stand

More things I can do myself, except the wheel truing, which I covered above.

I've taken a couple of days of bike mechanics classes and I can either do things myself or know what I need done, so I NEVER get a packaged tune-up. I understand why it exists, but I think cyclists that ride the kind of miles you do should get things piecemeal instead, as they need them.

This being said, the mechanics class was really helpful in educating me about those things... and reading dear Team Estrogen members' insights, too!! Also: patronizing a good bike shop regularly, learning from the shop people, and discussing with them will teach you a lot... and teach them that you're taking this seriously and are not to be abused with over-pricing.

[indysteel]

I'm with Sadie Kate on this one. I hate to say this, but I think someone's trying to take advantage of you. I doubt very much that you need to replace much of anything at 2700 miles, and I'm surprised that you've already gone through multiple chains and brake pads. Assuming you're regularly cleaning your drivetrain, you should get more life out of it than they're leading you to believe.

If I were you, I'd think twice about patronizing a shop that tried to sell me a bill of goods. I have multiple shops to select from in my area and I have learned over time (and sometimes the hard way) which shops--and which mechanics in each shop--to trust.

In the very least, I'd challenge them a bit on what they're telling you. With that in mind, it might be worth your while to gain some understanding of what to look for in terms of wear with respect to your bike's components so that you can exercise some independent judgment as to whether it's time to replace or rebuild something. I've just been doing some research myself on that here and on www.roadbikereview.com, and there's a lot of helpful information. You just need to do a few searches and a bit of reading.....

Good luck.

[lauraelmore1033]

Thanks for all the replies. I guess it's good to get an idea what every body else does and to see that my experience is so different.

As far as replacing the chain goes, I've been told that you should change it every 1000 miles, and have come to believe this to be true since I usually start to get a hint of shifting troubles (chattering, grumbling, skipping) after about 900 miles. The troubles will get worse, and when I bring it in to the shop, a check with the chain check tool confirms that the chain is stretched. I am aware that road grit (and too much lube) can cause excess wear to the drive train, so I do take pains to clean, lube and wipe the chain after pretty much every ride. I suspect that the problem in this area has to do with being a heavier than average rider on hillier than average terrain.

This would also apply to brake wear. I can testify that the brake pads were worn down to the nubs at the times they were replaced. I think they are probably softer pads than I had on my other bike (which didn't need to have the pads replaced), but these brakes work soooo much better; I had to resort to the "flinstones" method of braking (with the feet on the ground) in order to fully stop with the others.

As for the cassette, I've also been told (from sources independent from my LBS) that after 3 chain changes, it should be replaced. I believe that as well, since I was experiencing chain slippage and shifting troubles in certain (favorite)gears. The mechanic wasn't sure if the front rings actually needed to be replaced, so the estimate to replace them was a "worst cast scenario".

It's possible I've over estimated some costs like tubes (and yes, SK, I could patch them since I still have them) and have forgotten yet other things I spend money on. I don't think my LBS is taking advantage of me. I'm guessing some of the extra expense is just the cost of being an extra heavy rider...

[lauraelmore1033]

yean, Grog, that $65 tune up did seem excessive. It did include truing both wheels and replacing the chain, and did fix the skipping gear problem I was having so I was just happy to have everything running smoothly again.

[OakLeaf]

I don't know - a tuneup at my Ohio LBS is $100, which includes truing the wheels, fresh grease, cable adjustments and inspection. It's got to be at least an hour and a half work, even with sealed bearings. I get that the sealed-bearing crowd are subsidizing the ball-bearing types with a flat rate, and I do my own cable adjustments, but I still consider that very reasonable.

(On the other end of the spectrum is the Florida LBS where I bought my bike, where you get lifetime free "tune-ups" with a bike purchase, but they're limited to cable adjustments and IMO are just a way to keep the customers ignorant of maintenance and get them in the door.)

[Irulan]

at minimum, you can invest in a chain checker tool, about $12-25 and you can check your own chain wear.

[lauraelmore1033]

at minimum, you can invest in a chain checker tool, about $12-25 and you can check your own chain wear.

Yeah, I've been meaning to do that. And the replacement chain might be cheaper from Performance too. I'll have to check.