newbie question

[uk elephant]

So I have this brand new (month old) bike and love it, but it's doing something that worries me. I'm not good at writing, and now sure how to explain, but I'm hoping someone will be able to think of what the problem is.

I have a very nice new Specialized Tricross, but sometimes the bike just doesn't run smoothly and I can't quite place the problem. I think I came to the conclusion on my ride today that "it" was located in the chain/cog/derailer area. As I was pedalling, it felt like the chain was tugging at something...or was it the crank not moving around smoothly....in any event, I could feel it in the pedals. This has happened before, and I thought it was the pedals because they were very loose. I too the bike back to the shop and they agreed the pedals were too loose and put new ones on. The new ones are fine, not vibrating at all. So I'm back to the chain/cog/derailer. Could it have something to do with mud and rain? I hadn't noticed it for a while, until yesterday (it was raining) and it got worse today (rain and muddy path). Could it be mud clogging things up? Or should I be worried that it's something worse? If so, what could it be?

Hopefully some of you can desciphre my random description and come with some ideas of what it could be.....

[Trek420]

Yes, absolutely can have a lot to do with mud, gunk, dust, sludge in the works. A clean chain is a happy chain.

I clean the entire bike including power train (chain, deraileurs etc) about every 3 rides, or 300 miles, or whenever the bike "asks" me to, whichever is first.

I've got 4 minutes left on break but we've got a lot of new bikergals here so there's tons of info re maintenance here.

[DebW]

It could easily be gunk in the chain and cogs. Clean off the gunk with brushes and solvent (messy job) and then oil the chain. When things look clean, stand your bike against a wall and run the pedals backwards. The chain should run smoothly through the cogs. If it makes little jerks as it goes around a cog or through the jockey wheels, you have a stiff link in the chain. Your LBS can fit it in 2 minutes, or get yourself a chain tool and do it yourself. Other things to check: remove the chain from the front chainrings and grasp the two crank arms. See if the crank arms move relative to each other. See if the crank arms move in and out relative to the bike. Check that the chainring bolts are firmly tightened with no play in the chainrings relative to the crank arms. Check that the rear derailleur had no sideways play but moves front-to-back on it's spring. Since your LBS recently checked the bike, these things are unlikely, but occassionally something will loosen unexpectedly.

[bcipam]

Do you understand what "trimming" is? Sometimes a bike is in a "half-gear" and needs to be trimmed. Using your shifters, click it slightly or move it into another gear and see if the problem doesn't go away.

Trimming seems to be a common "newbie" problem. If you don't still understand, ask the bike shop to explain properly.

[Trek420]

bcipam,

can you trim with Shimano? thought only Campy does that?

uk,

good place to start here with basics of cleaning and bike lube

http://forums.teamestrogen.com/showt...highlight=lube


and here

http://www.teamestrogen.com/articles/asa_happy.asp

take care of your bike, it'll take care of you.

[bcipam]

Never ridden with Campy - only Shimano and yes I can trim although I think it may not work as well with lower end components. I ride with Ultegra and Dura Ace.

[uk elephant]

thank you all for helping out!

I did clean the bike when I got in today, though not very thoroughly I must admit as I don't have all the proper supplies. I'll get that sorted, and ask the neighbour about using the garden hose and then give the bike a thorough clean on the week-end.

I'll check out the chain etc as suggested tomorrow when it's light out again and I'm on a short ride to work. Hopefully I won't find anything too seriously wrong. I'll let you know how it goes.

Thank you again!!!

[bcipam]

EEEKKKK!!!! No hose, no water.

If the bike is really muddy, let the mud dry and using an old paint brush, brush it off. Water can get into the bottom brackets and other places where it's unwanted and cause havoc. Use a rag and sweep off as much dirt as possible. You can use something like Pledge (spray furniture oil) to help clean the bike but best a clean rag, some good lube such as Pedro's or Pro Link, a old paint brush, and just old fashion elbow grease. Make sure after the bike is cleaned, that you lube everything up nice. Again I would suggest something like Pro Link or Pedro's Dry. Make sure you wipe off all the excess lube. You can use Q-Tips to get into small, dirty places if necessary. Just trust me on this, no water on your bike and it will thank you!!!!

[SadieKate]

UK has a cross bike so it isn't as delicate as the average road bike. Though I will very gently clean my road bikes with a hose about once a year. The mountain bikes get washed like this regularly.

UK, be sure you don't use any pressure from the hose and don't aim it at any openings like the seat post collar, headset, bottle cage bolts, bottom bracket, etc. This is one time when dribbling is good. Be sure you get every thing bone dry (bring it in the house if necessary or use an hairdryer) and grease really well after.

http://www.parktool.com/repair/readhowto.asp?id=14
http://www.bicycling.com/article/0,3...ategory_id=365

Trek420, Shimano shifters will trim a couple clicks (I think only on the smaller of the 2 rings on a triple). Campy, as you know, has a lot of minute trim clicks.

UK, this thread got me to thinking. Could you be cross gearing? Do you have a triple or a double crankset on that bike?

www.parktool.com has loads of good info.

[Trek420]

thanks bcipam for posting "EEEKKKK!!!! No hose, no water "

Exactly what I was thinking while I worked

OK, gotta go pick up Bikeless's bike, whew glad the TE gals intervened before UK took the bike through the drive through car wash

[SadieKate]

If UK is riding her bike in all kinds of weather the way she describes, she cannot clean the bike without water and cleaner. Too much gunk comes of the road. If she's taking it off pavement, it'll get even dirtier. We're not talking the normal road grime most of us get on our road bikes. Her chain needs more than a wipe down.

Lube on the chainstay, spilled energy drink, chain cleaner, road oil, mud -- it will not come completely clean with a brush and elbow grease and you'll have to be very careful not to scratch your bike with this approach. You have to at least use a very damp rag.

Pro mechanics everywhere recommend it. Here's more. Pro mechanics are known to spend all night washing bikes for the next day's race.
http://www.bikesportmichigan.com/bikes/prevent.shtml

In their instructions, Park Tool shows washing an old school steel Bottecchia. If that bike can handle it, a modern sealed bearing aluminum Specialized can handle it.

[Trek420]

UK, when Sadiekate says to grease the bike we mean bike specicic lubericant, not WD40, motor oil, canola oil.

Rule of thumb don't lube the bike without cleaning first, don't clean it without lube after.

I keep a bucket with my supplies; citrus degreaser, shop rags, stiff wire brush, park chain cleaning tool...what else is in here? A clean lubed bike runs better, lasts longer, saves you $$....

"Trek420, Shimano shifters will trim a couple clicks (I think only on the smaller of the 2 rings on a triple). Campy, as you know, has a lot of minute trim clicks."

Yep, Campy has lots of little cliques, oops clicks

[uk elephant]

Ok, now I'm a bit confused. Clean the bike with no water? But I'm riding it in rain and snow....surely that involves water....and everything else I've tried cleaning, won't come clean without some warm water and soap....

As for the gears, I have two cogs in the front and eight in the back. The small cog in the front has two settings (half click to the right when using the small cogs in the back). I try not to use the large cogs both front and back at the same time, as I understand that puts too much strain on the chain. Anything else I need to be aware of?

I gave the bike a quick clean when I came home last night and that did seem to help. It was running much better this morning. But then I got to the muddy stretch on my commute this morning and it got worse again. So I've come to the conclusion that it must just need a thorough cleaning and re-lubing. My plan is to stock up on the necessary supplies when I get home tonight (if any LBS is still open, if not tomorrow morning) and then give the bike a thorough cleaning and lots of TLC this week-end. But in the meantime, keep the tips coming. Especially on how to best clean the bike....how often....with or without water....

[SadieKate]

UK, read www.parktool.com.

These guys know it all. Lots of good info on there including an interactive bike diagram you can point to for info on that area of the bike.

[bcipam]

UK - just a word of caution since there are mixed reviews on this. I would never ever think of using water on my road bikes but I did use a hose on my mountain bikes. Here in California I do alot of MTB rides through water, mud and sand. I just had to spend several $100 dollars having my Fisher rebuilt cause I got water in the bottom bracket and some other places. The mechanic has cautioned me to not ever again use water on the bike. If I do, no hose. Use a bucket and wash rag and very gently sponge off dirt being careful around the bottom bracket (this holds your cranks) and any place water can seep in. I've actually started cleaning my hardtail without water, and it's been surprisenly easy. I bought some large paint brushes and once the mud and sand drys, it was easy to brush it off and then polish the bike and give it a god lube. The mechanic also told me MTB and cross bikes ndon't have to be kept as clean as a road bike, a good "brushing" and lube is fine and then once or twice a year, the bike should be torn apart and thoroughly cleaned using solvents, and bike specific washing materials.