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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Location
    Oslo, Norway
    Posts
    4,066

    overhauling freehubs?

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    Ok *sigh* so the insanely expensive Hope hub I bought to build my own rear wheel wasn't indestructible after all. The cassette now spins freely both forwards and backwards, and it's not because it's frozen. I took the wheel indoors last night and it's just as bad.

    So - can I remove and overhaul or replace just the cassette body (i.e. the thingy the cassette slides onto)? I've been looking for tutorials, but so far only found one that mentions cup-and-cone hubs. I've overhauled those before, but not just the cassette body, and I've not removed a cartridge bearing yet (well, not from a wheel, just from a bottom bracket).

    Any tips? I'll do some more searching, but I figured I might as well ask here first
    Winter riding is much less about badassery and much more about bundle-uppery. - malkin

    1995 Kona Cinder Cone commuterFrankenbike/Selle Italia SLR Lady Gel Flow
    2008 white Nakamura Summit Custom mtb/Terry Falcon X
    2000 Schwinn Fastback Comp road bike/Specialized Jett

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    Uncanny Valley
    Posts
    14,498
    If it turns both ways, it's a pawl(s) or spring that's failed, not the bearings. You *may* be able to get the parts, but it's unlikely, and even if you did, it's a HUGE undertaking to mess with springloaded parts that are that small.

    I once had a freewheel apart for no good reason, back in the day when I would just take things apart. I did manage to get it back together and it worked until the bike was stolen years later , but if I'd lost a pawl when they all flew everywhere, I probably wouldn't have.

    Best to just replace the freehub body. Every brand is different so make sure you're searching on Hope. A lot of links (YouTube and forum links) come up when I google "Hope freehub replacement" or "overhaul." Check Hope's own website too, a lot of times manufacturers have .pdfs of their service manuals and parts fiches. Best to rely on the manufacturer for stuff like torque and clearance specifications - call them if you can't find the specs online.

    "Hope"fully Deb will chime in later.
    Last edited by OakLeaf; 02-10-2011 at 04:35 AM.
    Speed comes from what you put behind you. - Judi Ketteler

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Posts
    2,698
    Hope should have instructions on their website for replacing the freehub body.

    http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/M...?ModelID=25986 I'm a fan of steel freehub bodies. They're a little heavier, but less likely to notch like an alloy one will.
    Last edited by Becky; 02-10-2011 at 04:31 AM.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Location
    Oslo, Norway
    Posts
    4,066
    Dang, you ladies are good. Thank you for doing the searching I should have done myself, and for good tips Truth be told I was feeling a bit whiny that my expensive wheel was broken, but now I'm back to thinking I can fix it.
    Winter riding is much less about badassery and much more about bundle-uppery. - malkin

    1995 Kona Cinder Cone commuterFrankenbike/Selle Italia SLR Lady Gel Flow
    2008 white Nakamura Summit Custom mtb/Terry Falcon X
    2000 Schwinn Fastback Comp road bike/Specialized Jett

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    Massachusetts
    Posts
    2,556
    Looks like you can buy a replacement freehub body. I'm not familiar with Hope hubs, but typically the manufacturer doesn't recommend that you disassemble them. It may be possible to give it a try if you find instructions and the right tools. Or the manufacturer may be willing to replace the freehub body under warranty. I'd pull the freehub off, soak it in solvent for a few days, air dry it, see if the pawls operate, and then oil lightly.
    Oil is good, grease is better.

    2007 Peter Mooney w/S&S couplers/Terry Butterfly
    1993 Bridgestone MB-3/Avocet O2 Air 40W
    1980 Columbus Frame with 1970 Campy parts
    1954 Raleigh 3-speed/Brooks B72

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Location
    Oslo, Norway
    Posts
    4,066
    The hope site does have a video showing to overhaul the entire hub, according to it I can just pull the freehub body right off...? I'll give it a try. I'm hoping I can do this even though I have spokes and all attached, I'm not keen on rebuilding the wheel. I'll need a "special tool" (just looks like a piece of tubing to me) to pop it back on, but at the moment the wheel is useless so I've nothing to lose.

    Thank goodness it's ski season here
    Winter riding is much less about badassery and much more about bundle-uppery. - malkin

    1995 Kona Cinder Cone commuterFrankenbike/Selle Italia SLR Lady Gel Flow
    2008 white Nakamura Summit Custom mtb/Terry Falcon X
    2000 Schwinn Fastback Comp road bike/Specialized Jett

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Location
    Oslo, Norway
    Posts
    4,066
    I did it! I'm queen of the universe! Woo-hoo!

    Watched the Hope video about 3 times - with this cute British guy, he finishes by hefting the hub with a pleased grin and going "Now, that's a good 'ub" - couldn't pull the freehub off with a neat snap since I had an entire wheel attached but squiggled around with a screwdriver in the gap and suddenly it just was loose. The pawls and springs were a brown, corroded mess, but I pulled the springs out carefully and flushed with solvent. The pawls weren't going anywhere. Then some oil, wiggled around, cleaned a bit, finally some grease, reinstalled the springs and wiggled until they seemed to work as cleanly as they were going to. Watched the video another 3 times and was dismayed to see that I needed a special "seal tool" to get the freehub snapped back in place. Could find ONE store that had it - but out of stock right now. Searched some more, found s forum with at least two people who had just worked it on with their fingers. And it was a doddle - the "seal" is just a plastic ring that I carefully pushed on piecewise with a screwdriver. So much for the special Hope HTT175 Seal Tool

    And my wheel now has a new cassette and spins sweetly! Hah!
    Winter riding is much less about badassery and much more about bundle-uppery. - malkin

    1995 Kona Cinder Cone commuterFrankenbike/Selle Italia SLR Lady Gel Flow
    2008 white Nakamura Summit Custom mtb/Terry Falcon X
    2000 Schwinn Fastback Comp road bike/Specialized Jett

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    Massachusetts
    Posts
    2,556
    Most excellent work, Queen of the Universe!
    Oil is good, grease is better.

    2007 Peter Mooney w/S&S couplers/Terry Butterfly
    1993 Bridgestone MB-3/Avocet O2 Air 40W
    1980 Columbus Frame with 1970 Campy parts
    1954 Raleigh 3-speed/Brooks B72

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    Uncanny Valley
    Posts
    14,498
    Yay! Such a satisfying feeling.
    Speed comes from what you put behind you. - Judi Ketteler

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Posts
    2,698
    Good job!

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    Preston, UK
    Posts
    52
    Cheers for the info on the videos on the Hope site, lph! I used it to see how you properly install a Hope headset, esp the Head Doctor (HD) thing. Tbh I can't see the advantage of the HD over a star nut except it is easier to install and it goes in straight. Once you get a star nut in it will stay there, one has stood up to Belgian cobbles, roughstuffing, and 1.5 CX seasons without any problems at all, while the bolt holding the HD together can loosen...

    Oh and well done on the hub servicing. Satisfying isn't it?

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Location
    California
    Posts
    356
    Quote Originally Posted by Christopher View Post
    Once you get a star nut in it will stay there, one has stood up to Belgian cobbles, roughstuffing, and 1.5 CX seasons without any problems at all
    A star nut is there just for assembly. Once the stem is clamped onto the steerer, the star nut's job is done. (Except if it is used to mount a bike computer, compass, or other trinket.)

 

 

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