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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Location
    Ohio
    Posts
    104

    V-brakes and drop bars

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    I'm putting v-brakes on my Surly LHT. I have the topeak levers but don't I need barrel adjusters in here some where? I saw that they make v-brake noodles with barrel adjusters that I can swap for the ones that came with the brakes.

    Do I need these?

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    Uncanny Valley
    Posts
    14,498
    You don't technically need them, but they sure make life a whole lot easier.

    The alternative is to un-clamp and re-clamp your cable any time it needs adjustment. Who needs that? Noodles are cheap. I can't speak to quality of any of them, but hopefully someone here can give a review or two.
    Speed comes from what you put behind you. - Judi Ketteler

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Location
    Portland, OR
    Posts
    324
    You could also get an inline adjuster, like those from Jagwire (Jagwire Inline_Adjusters).

    ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
    '89 Bridgestone Radac Dura-Ace | Specialized Ruby, 143
    '92 Bridgestone MB-1 | Specialized Ruby, 143
    '92 Bridgestone MB-1.2 (balloon tire bike) | Specialized Ruby, 143
    '93 Bridgestone MB-5 (my SUB*) | Specialized Lithia, 143


    My blog: Portlandia Pedaler (at Blogger)

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Location
    Ohio
    Posts
    104

    Inline adjusters for brakes vs deraileurs?

    I followed the jagwire link and it says those inline adjusters are for deraileurs nothing mentions brakes so I'm wondering, what's the difference. Intuitively I would think that brake barrel adjusters would have a lower tpi thus allowing for a larger adjustment per turn of the barrel than a derailleur barrel adjuster would? Is that the case?

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Location
    Portland, OR
    Posts
    324
    Good point. I did a quick web search and apparently there are just a few mfgrs like, Avid, that make an aluminum adjuister. Seems putting something inline for brakes raises the risk (lawsuit) factor for failure due to the amount of pull required for brakes versus derailleurs.

    On my bikes, the rear has an adjuster at the housing end just behind the seat post for fine tuning (mtbs converted to drop style bars). The front has no adjusters. I set new pads on the slightly close side which seems to hold up fine through the life of the brake pad. Takes a bit more work on initial pad installation, but works out.

    ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
    '89 Bridgestone Radac Dura-Ace | Specialized Ruby, 143
    '92 Bridgestone MB-1 | Specialized Ruby, 143
    '92 Bridgestone MB-1.2 (balloon tire bike) | Specialized Ruby, 143
    '93 Bridgestone MB-5 (my SUB*) | Specialized Lithia, 143


    My blog: Portlandia Pedaler (at Blogger)

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Location
    Ohio
    Posts
    104

    Cable adjusting noodle

    I think I'm going to check out the cost of the v-brake noodle with the barrel adjuster. This will be a cost vs convenience choice.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Location
    Ohio
    Posts
    104

    a little over $7

    Ok so, I'm picturing myself at the bottom of a nice down hill in 90-100 degree heat after wearing half the rubber off my breaks and needing an adjustment. Do I really want to dig out the tools to adjust the cable pull, or do I want to just give a twist to a barrel adjuster? No contest, I ordered the Jagwire noodles with the barrel adjuster to replace the stock ones. I'll let you know how they do.

 

 

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