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Thread: Disk Brakes?

  1. #1
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    Disk Brakes?

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    My name is Grog and I'm shopping for a new bike (but I don't have the time to shop).

    I'm thinking of getting disk brakes on my new commuter bike. It would cost more than the insurer will give me for my now-retired bike, but I'm happy to pay for it if it's worth it.

    They would not be hydraulic bakes though, just the standard disk brakes.

    My idea is that it would be more secure to stop in wet conditions in particular.

    The only downside that I can think of is that I don't know how to fix them (but I could learn I guess).

    Anyone has experience or knowledge to share with me about this before I go and order the bike? (Maybe Monday.)

    Many thanks!

  2. #2
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    No advice on Disk brakes (I'm just starting to be curious about them myself), but was wondering what model you're looking at?? If I wanted a trek (from your previous thread) commuter bike, I'd be looking long at hard at the 520 (I have one) and the Portland (I think is a really cool bike).

    CA
    Most days in life don't stand out, But life's about those days that will...

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by CA_in_NC View Post
    No advice on Disk brakes (I'm just starting to be curious about them myself), but was wondering what model you're looking at?? If I wanted a trek (from your previous thread) commuter bike, I'd be looking long at hard at the 520 (I have one) and the Portland (I think is a really cool bike).
    Let's say those two are out of my price range by a lot.

    The bike I had was a 7100 fx from 2004, which is about half the price of the 520 or Portland.

    I was looking at the Valencia and at another one that was tagged "Soho" but it's not like the Soho on the web site (maybe because it's last year's, I don't know).

    I have been lusting for a 520 for a long time, but I can't justify buying that right now. Especially not knowing what kind of job I will have next year.

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by Grog View Post
    Let's say those two are out of my price range by a lot.
    Egads. I just looked at the current prices. Let's just say I paid not much more than the Valencia for mine. They're out of my range too - now. I see what people meant about 2009 pricing!!

    The Valencia looks like a really cool bike! Hope someone with more experience with disks will chime in

    Good luck!

    CA
    Most days in life don't stand out, But life's about those days that will...

  5. #5
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    Adjusting disk brakes is definitely harder than caliper brakes. The clearance between the disk and pads is just a couple millimeters, so you squint alot trying to adjust them. Mechanical disk brakes have one fixed and one movable pad, and getting the disk the correct distance from each pad can be tricky. If the disk gets warped, you either have to try and true it (often unsuccessfully) or live with a scraping brake. BTW, disk brakes on department store bikes are often complete junk and hardly stop the bike.
    Oil is good, grease is better.

    2007 Peter Mooney w/S&S couplers/Terry Butterfly
    1993 Bridgestone MB-3/Avocet O2 Air 40W
    1980 Columbus Frame with 1970 Campy parts
    1954 Raleigh 3-speed/Brooks B72

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by DebW View Post
    Adjusting disk brakes is definitely harder than caliper brakes. The clearance between the disk and pads is just a couple millimeters, so you squint alot trying to adjust them. Mechanical disk brakes have one fixed and one movable pad, and getting the disk the correct distance from each pad can be tricky. If the disk gets warped, you either have to try and true it (often unsuccessfully) or live with a scraping brake. BTW, disk brakes on department store bikes are often complete junk and hardly stop the bike.
    So Deb, in your opinion, is it even worth it to get disk brakes for a commuter bike? (We're talking about a Trek $900 bike here.)

  7. #7
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    Portland bike

    I have the Portland with disc brakes as my commuter bike and I love it. I have 2 sets of Arkel panniers (sm & lg), and the Arkel tailrider. I keept the tailrider on all the time, and use the small panniers for work, and the larger ones - well for other stuff - sometimes work, or grocery shopping.

    I don't commute very often. It's 13 miles one way, 12 of which are on a 4-lane highway. There is a good shoulder the whole way save for the 1/2 mile of bridge and approaches over the inlet in the middle, which can be a little hairy. But there is not a single light of any kind, or house, or store for about 11 of those 12 miles. So it's not a run you would ever want to do in the dark.

    I'll have to put up a new photo in the commuter thread if it ever gets warm enough to take it outside and shoot some pix. I only have about 1000 miles on it, and have never touched the brakes.

    I'm very concerned about removing the wheels when I do get the inevitable flat tire. Knock wood, I have about 1000 miles on it but have never had a flat or removed the wheels. I DO know that you are not to squeeze the brake lever if the wheel is not attached. When the time comes I hope my fingers will remember that tidbit.

    My biggest fear is the rear tire flat 15 miles from home, with cold or darkness approaching. I guess I ought to do a dry run on that with this bike in the comfort of my living room.

    I only had 1 flat in 2008 - on my Pilot. In 2007 I was buying tubes 6 at a time for the Pilot and replaced ruined tires a couple of times as well. I can hardly believe it. Now I'm jinxed for sure.

    So does anyone have a good website with step by step instructions for handling disc brakes?

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Grog View Post
    So Deb, in your opinion, is it even worth it to get disk brakes for a commuter bike? (We're talking about a Trek $900 bike here.)
    Those comments were just my experience from working on the occasional disk brake at the bike shop for one season. I don't ride on disk brakes, except for test riding them in the parking lot. If you plan to commute in all weather, then they are probably worth it to you. Taking wheels on and off with disk brakes is no big deal - actually easier than caliper brakes since you don't have to worry about getting the tires past the brakes. Mountain bike racers are thrilled with the power and ability of hydraulic disk brakes. The mechanical variety don't give you the same lever power or modulation. Definitely ride the bike you're interested in and see how you like the feel of the brakes, because different models do vary.
    Oil is good, grease is better.

    2007 Peter Mooney w/S&S couplers/Terry Butterfly
    1993 Bridgestone MB-3/Avocet O2 Air 40W
    1980 Columbus Frame with 1970 Campy parts
    1954 Raleigh 3-speed/Brooks B72

  9. #9
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    Thanks Deb! I'll do that today and get back to the thread.

  10. #10
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    Tried a few bikes today. The disk brakes were surprisingly useless at braking. I was actually forewarned that when they are new they don't have much power.

    The geometry won and I simply got another Trek 7.2fx. It's like riding the same bike. With v-brakes.

    The colour is nicer though.

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Grog View Post
    Tried a few bikes today. The disk brakes were surprisingly useless at braking. I was actually forewarned that when they are new they don't have much power.

    The geometry won and I simply got another Trek 7.2fx. It's like riding the same bike. With v-brakes.

    The colour is nicer though.

    Congrats! on a new bike...

    DH was surprised that you didn't noticed the braking power though. He said, yes there is a burning in phase but you should be able to feel it right away. Was it hydraulic or cable brakes? With his mnt. bike, from day one, the bike shop had warned him to use only one finger to brake because it was that powerful. The burning in phase is really for you to get a feel of the brakes. To this day, he doesn't need to use much effort for the brakes to work. And the only maintence is to bleed out the hydraulic fluid every few years.

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by buddha_bellies View Post
    Congrats! on a new bike...

    DH was surprised that you didn't noticed the braking power though. He said, yes there is a burning in phase but you should be able to feel it right away. Was it hydraulic or cable brakes? With his mnt. bike, from day one, the bike shop had warned him to use only one finger to brake because it was that powerful. The burning in phase is really for you to get a feel of the brakes. To this day, he doesn't need to use much effort for the brakes to work. And the only maintence is to bleed out the hydraulic fluid every few years.
    They were not hydraulic but mechanical. I think they would have started working better if I had worked them in for a while, but I test-rode the bike for only 10 minutes. The geometry was really not what I was looking for.

    Rumour has it that the brake pads have to be changed more often, but that would hang a lot on rider style I think.

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by buddha_bellies View Post
    Congrats! on a new bike...

    DH was surprised that you didn't noticed the braking power though. He said, yes there is a burning in phase but you should be able to feel it right away. Was it hydraulic or cable brakes? With his mnt. bike, from day one, the bike shop had warned him to use only one finger to brake because it was that powerful. The burning in phase is really for you to get a feel of the brakes. To this day, he doesn't need to use much effort for the brakes to work. And the only maintence is to bleed out the hydraulic fluid every few years.
    It's the hydraulics that provide the power and the one-finger operation.
    Oil is good, grease is better.

    2007 Peter Mooney w/S&S couplers/Terry Butterfly
    1993 Bridgestone MB-3/Avocet O2 Air 40W
    1980 Columbus Frame with 1970 Campy parts
    1954 Raleigh 3-speed/Brooks B72

 

 

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