my new bike?

So, I got a new bike today.

I was fit for it, but it still feels way too big. I can't stop it without almost dumping it - so I googled "standover height" and it looks like, for commuters, there should be an inch or three from the top tube to your crotch. There is NO space between my crotch and top tube, and I might add, I'm pretty sore there from the ride home.

It's a beautiful bike, but I feel like I'm going to fall off it. I can't even start on a hill at all. I'm also having a problem with the breaks, they seem to big for my hands and I can hardly get any leverage when I'm riding the hoods. But I'm not sure there is anything that can be done about that : /

So help me, did I get an ill fitting bike? Will I get used to this? All my riding experience right now is 5 months on a 30 year old mixte, so I have no idea if I should trust my LBS guy or if I was used as a dumping ground for out dated stock.

I don't think standover height is considered a make-or-break for a road bike. I don't really have any on my bikes (but I can still stand flat-footed over the bar without discomfort). If your nether regions are sore after riding, you should try changing the tilt of the saddle either up or down. If that doesn't work, you may need a new saddle. Some saddles are just uncomfortable!

As for brake reach, you can get spacers glued in. They're basically wedges that fit into the brake hinge and bring the levers closer in so you can reach them. I have these on my cross bike: http://www.specialized.com/us/en/bc/...emId=0&eid=367. They make a huge difference in my ability to brake.

I can't tell from looking at your bike whether it's the right size, but I hope those suggestions help. How tall are you, what is your inseam, what's the model of the bike, and what size is it? Those numbers could help us tell if it sounds like a reasonable size. :) Good luck!

good to know! I'll look into the spacers.

I found this on the Specialized web site too:

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If your crotch touches the frame, the bike is too big for you. Don't even ride the bike around the block. A bike which you ride only on paved surfaces and never take off-road should give you a minimum standover height clearance of two inches

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http://specialized.custhelp.com/app/...bicycle-sizing

IDK what to think.
The guys also upgraded my parts form Tigra (what I ordered) to 105 at no extra cost. I want to think they're a good lbs.

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Originally Posted by Antaresia

There is NO space between my crotch and top tube, ...

Here is a picture of me on the bike.

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From that picture, it looks like you have short legs and a long torso. This means you should consider men's and unisex bikes and not WSD bikes.

Also from the picture, the top tube and downtube almost touch at the head tube of the frame. This means the bike has a small frame - perhaps the smallest this model comes in.

Possibly any bikes (carried by that LBS) with smaller frames will be WSD. That means they will be much too short (saddle to handlebars) for you. The LBS may have fitted you on this bike to deal with reach issues.

If you were to put on some sneakers or riding shoes, then you would have more top tube clearance.

Your soreness from riding would be a saddle issue, not a standover issue. Your saddle may need to be adjusted, or maybe you need an entirely different saddle.

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Originally Posted by Ered_Lithui

what's the model of the bike, and what size is it?

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Elsewhere she mentioned that she bought a Soma Double Cross. One detail about cyclocross frames is that the bottom bracket is a bit higher than usual. That means the saddle is the same bit higher when adjusted to the proper height.

I don't think it's a wsd, it's a soma double cross. I just measured the top tube and it looks like it's the 50cm size.

I'll take better pictures tomorrow, it's dark out now.

And my inseam is around 30", though I'm not sure how accurate my self-measurement was.

I guess I'll just try to get used to it more, and maybe lower the seat a little. I'm not brave enough to ride it to work tomorrow, so it'll be homework.

As someone who also just built a doublecross, I can say that it is NOT a WSD frame. I think my first recommendation is if you are not comfortable take it back to your LBS, while people here can give you suggestions, that is where the information ends, Your LBS can "see" you on the bike, and make changes according to what you communicate to them.

I think another thing to consider is that you mentioned that you are coming from a mixte, and one that you have been riding for quite some time. My point to all of this is that any new bike that is not a mixte, is going to feel completely different to you.( you mentioned the "big" feeling)If you are still feeling a bit uncomfortable, then definitely take it back to your LBS, obviously they can make adjustments for you and perhaps you can start a great relationship with them, where you'll feel comfortable asking these same questions in the future.

Brakes: while you are there, definitely have them look at the reach on your levers.. as others have mentioned, there are spacers that can help you with any reach issues.

Lastly, the Douoble Cross is a great frame, one intended to be an all around frame... it either can be used for self contained touring, cyclocross, and your everyday rides. Enjoy it and have fun!!



http://chasecyclery.blogspot.com

Antaresia I really think you need to let the shop know how uncomfortable you are on this bike, sooner rather than later. If you can't 'really' clear the bar that's a big problem for commuting. I'm sure its an awesome bike but fit is everything on you being comfy on it.

They may need to order you a smaller frame size.

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Originally Posted by Antaresia

I just measured the top tube and it looks like it's the 50cm size.

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Did you measure the top tube to be 50cm? Or did you measure the top tube, look it up in Soma's geometry chart, and found a match with the 50cm frame size?

FYI: For better or worse, bike frame sizes are specified by their seat tube length. A 50.5cm (actual) top tube is used in the 42cm Double Cross, which is also the smallest frame size. Whereas the 50cm Double Cross has a top tube of 53.5cm and a standover of 29.9 inches.

How well does the bike fit you in terms of reach? Are you stretching forward to the handlebars? Are they at a comfortable distance? Or do they feel awfully close? (This is a much better indicator of fit than standover clearance.)

How high is the saddle on your mixte?

With the step through nature of the mixte, you are far above the frame as you boost up to the saddle when starting. Now, with the nearly horizontal top tube, the frame is always there. You might need to establish different starting patterns for this bike.

If you do have short legs and a long torso, it might be the right sized bike even though you can barely clear it. I also have short legs and a long torso and if I am barefoot, I barely clear the top tube on any of my bikes. I have banged myself in the crotch by slipping on wet pavement when stopping my bike more times than I care to count.

As someone else mentioned, standover is not the critical dimension on bike fit. Top tube length is significantly more important. In order to get the right length cockpit on that particular bike, you may have to sacrifice standover clearance. If you can't straddle the bike at all, that's a problem. If it's touching you when you are barefoot (hard to tell from the photo), then it should be ok once you have shoes on.

When I was shopping for a tri bike, I had to rule out entire companies because the bikes were just too tall for me even though the saddle to bar length was correct.

And yes, if your crotch hurts, it's likely due to the saddle, not to the size of the bike. Even if the bike were to big, you would still be able to lower the saddle enough not to cause crotch pain anyway. I'd start shopping for a new saddle.

Stand over height should be determined while wearing cycling shoes that you plan to wear, not barefooted. Secondly, reach is more important than stand over height, IMHO. Once the correct saddle height and fore/aft positions are set for efficient pedaling, then any reach issues can be addressed with changing stem lengths. You can also have the brake levers switched out for "compact reach" brake levers for smaller hands or some levers allow a shim. I changed out the brake levers on mine when they built it up.
Can you get a proper bike fitting?

Thanks for the replies everyone! I feel better about trying to get to know this twitchy beast.

I'll ride it around tonight, and down to the LBS tomorrow. Maybe I can work out some of the fit problems, and worst case scenario get mustache handlebars.

I still think it's funny I can go to store, get fitted for a custom bike, and still prefer the vintage beater I bought with no more thought than "it's pretty!".

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Originally Posted by Antaresia

Thanks for the replies everyone! I feel better about trying to get to know this twitchy beast.

I'll ride it around tonight, and down to the LBS tomorrow. Maybe I can work out some of the fit problems, and worst case scenario get mustache handlebars.

I still think it's funny I can go to store, get fitted for a custom bike, and still prefer the vintage beater I bought with no more thought than "it's pretty!".

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It might just be because it isn't familiar yet. If I stood over my bike barefoot I'd barely have clearance too. With shoes I am fine. It works out for me just fine. There are no bikes for me where I would have a 2 or 3 inch clearance. I am happy with a couple of centimeters clearance when wearing my shoes. I tend to stop with a bit of a lean, dropping down my left foot and keeping my right on the pedal.

Fwiw... Just at a glance, I personally think your saddle is a bit too high...

If your saddle is too high, you will have pelvis rocking back and forth while pedaling and likewise rocking pressure on your pubic bone soft tissue parts. Also, if you are rocking as you pedal, it makes it difficult to feel solid and keep your balance.

I'm long torso, short legs, just about like yours, and just did a stand over of my bikes. Bare foot, the top tube is just touching the soft tissue of the pubic bone. With shoes, I have a little clearance.

OK, here's what makes the difference in what I see in your saddle height, vs. mine...

If your pants are low cut and the waist band lays across your boney bump of your hip bone crest... that is where about the top of your saddle should be level for height. When I stand next to my bike, I can press the nose of the saddle right into my hip bone bump- about equal height.

Another check is as you are seated on the bike, and put your heel (with shoes you ride in) on the center of the pedal, your knee should be about locked out at the bottom of the stroke. When you move your foot forward, and put the ball of your foot on the pedal as you would to ride, you should have a slight bend, roughly 15-20degrees. OK, do not instinctively jam your heel down when the ball of your foot is on the pedal and think "I'm still knee locked out" because you do not actually pedal that way- usually your heel is slightly up (gives that bend) in motion.

Your knee position forward or backward (saddle fore or aft) should line up (with the saddle height set first) like a straight line from front of knee passing thru ball of foot, when pedals are at 9 & 3 o'clock.

Your top tube is naturally going to be shorter with a smaller frame, but you have alot options in terms of stem and bars to get comfy. If your old bike is comfy, take it in with the new bike and show the shop this is what makes my body happy. See what can be done with that.

Also, on balance, are the new bike tires skinnier width? Was the old bike smaller tires like a mtb? Or standard road bike 700c tires? You can switch tire width (up to a point) if this helps you get used to your new ride.

And yes, usually lighter, more performance oriented bikes, are more "twitchy" as they say. However, if the bike fits you, this should pass.

You and your machine should become one- the whole ride just disappearing underneath you. That is a piece of what cycling heaven is made of. Take that from someone who has had both cycling hell in a bike sold to me two frame sizes too big, to what I own now- heaven, fits like a glove.

Good Luck!

EDIT ADD: For the $ paid at the LBS, they should make it right. That is part of the point of what you pay for in the lbs price (that's a reputable shop, anyway).

okay, I'm home and tried getting on the bike again. There is no way this is right, I can hardly stay on standing still. My heel can't even reach the pedal when I'm sitting on the bike.

I think the guys at the LBS are assholes. Who would send me home on such a shitty fitting bike?! Part of me wants to refund the whole thing, because they're inattentive jerks who can't even spend 2 minutes to make sure a $2000 bikes fits properly. I almost fell, like, 4 times on the bike ride home but I thought it was just me, but no, I don't really think that anymore. SO MAD right now.

http://i845.photobucket.com/albums/a...oia/badfit.png
I wear the bandana under the helmet, I think the fuchsia/blue zebra print is pretty fabulous

http://i845.photobucket.com/albums/a...ndoia/foot.png
close up of the above picture, cant get my heel on the pedal.

http://i845.photobucket.com/albums/a...ndoia/legs.png

In this one you can see, I can get one foot on the ground with the tips of my toes, but not both. When I tried to stop on the road, I did the one-foot-lean-the-bike thing, but I almost dumped it out from under me a few times because the lean angle was too much.

Oh my that seat is high, your heel must be able to touch the pedal. I am no expert except in my own ride but that looks seriously wrong. What kind of fitting did they purport to do?

The kind of fitting where I can hear the manager(?) on his cell phone saying "I want to leave early today, traffic is going to be brutal" and they don't even bother to turn my bike right-side up again when I ask them to write the serial number on my receipt. I came to pick up half an hour before they closed.

The first time I went in I got put on one of the adjustable bike dummies and had my measurements taken and video of how I ride; when I went to pick up my bike they asked me if I wanted to see how it fit (uh, yes? Isn't that the point of getting a fitted bike built? Why are you even asking?) and seemed to set up my bike really quick, "is everything okay? Feel fine? Yep, you're good see ya"
: /

I accept that good bike mechanics aren't always good at customer service, but come on. Everything was obviously not okay and it was their job to know that; not for my noob self to get home and spend an hour with google trying to figure out what was wrong. Gah. I'm still mad and now I have a beer in me.

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Originally Posted by Antaresia

they don't even bother to turn my bike right-side up again when I ask them to write the serial number on my receipt.

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They actually set a brand new bike on the floor upside down? :eek: (Bikes are not supposed to flipped upside down. These days there are too many delicate things on the handle bars. Plus, soft stuff like the saddle and bar tape may get torn.) They should have clamped the bike into a bike repair stand, and twirled it around to hold the bike upside down in mid air.

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Originally Posted by Antaresia

The first time I went in I got put on one of the adjustable bike dummies and had my measurements taken and video of how I ride; when I went to pick up my bike they asked me if I wanted to see how it fit (uh, yes? Isn't that the point of getting a fitted bike built? Why are you even asking?) and seemed to set up my bike really quick, "is everything okay? Feel fine? Yep, you're good see ya"
: /

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I bet they never set the saddle height to match the measurements - the assembling mechanic probably just inserted the seatpost a minimum amount, assuming it would be fine tuned later.

Actually, I suspect they didn't keep any of the bike dummy measurements. They probably used the numbers only to order the "correct" parts.

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Originally Posted by Antaresia

The guys also upgraded my parts form Tigra (what I ordered) to 105 at no extra cost.

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I hesitate to mention this, but your cranks are neither current model Tiagra nor 105. First off, they are using an internal cartridge bottom bracket. (This is actually not necessarily bad.) Second, the backs of the arms are concave - which means they aren't made with "hollow" technology.

They look kind of like Shimano FC-R453 cranks.

Antaresia I'm sorry if I am missing it but what is the manufacturer size on your frame? I think dont go into the shop with guns blazing bc I can tell u r getting frustrated, rightly so. But just to get the shop to do what you need I would point out how tight you r over the top tube and just tell them u are not comfortable and won't be able to ride the bike like that. I'm hoping they will just go ahead and order u a smaller frame size after they double check ur inseam. Be persistent on this.

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Originally Posted by WindingRoad

Antaresia I'm sorry if I am missing it but what is the manufacturer size on your frame? I think dont go into the shop with guns blazing bc I can tell u r getting frustrated, rightly so. But just to get the shop to do what you need I would point out how tight you r over the top tube and just tell them u are not comfortable and won't be able to ride the bike like that. I'm hoping they will just go ahead and order u a smaller frame size after they double check ur inseam. Be persistent on this.

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I agree, polite but persistent.

I would be concerned about laura*'s comment about the parts -- if they put lower grade ones that those promised, I'd be upset. It can be a mistake (when I bought mine, they put the wrong pedals, but swapped them right away after checking the original order).

Regarding the saddle position, it seems a bit high. However, in my bike, while in the saddle, I can barely put the tip of one foot on the ground, leaning the bike a bit. The key issue is how your leg is positioned while you are on the pedals, and your comfort on the bike while riding (not so much stand over height). I only tried this barefoot, by my heel does not touch the pedal at the bottom of the stroke. I cannot see it myself, but if I had to guess, I think my pedal was about 1cm away from my heel.

You could try lowering the saddle yourself (maybe as much as an inch), ride again to see how it feels. Then go to the bike shop and request a proper fit of the new bike. The reason I suggest tinkering with the saddle height yourself is that you will then "collect" more information about the fit. Else, the first thing the will do is lower the saddle and send you off. It does not sound like you connected with the right people in the bike shop (assuming that not everyone in it is obnoxious).

ETA: Re the components, if they upgraded the shifters and rear derailleur to 105 and downgraded the front derailleur and cranks, perhaps it is fair deal? I'd look up the values and I'm sure others here can provide some guidance on fairness...

I am late to the game, but I wanted to put my voice in as one of those people who cannot stand over their bikes completely (my crotch touches the top tube of both) but my bikes fit me very well. Since you don't get on your bicycle by sitting on the seat and then pedaling off into the distance, I don't think that it really matters. I get on my platform pedal bike the same as I do the clipless - right foot slightly raised and resting on the pedal, bike leaned slightly towards me, push down on right pedal while lifting body off ground, sit down, connect left foot to pedal; get off in reverse order.

What DOES matter is you foot position on your pedals and thus your butt's distance from the end of the crank arm. I'm not sure if your heel should touch the pedals, but definitely the ball of your foot should (my heel does not touch my pedals). When you are at the bottom of the pedal stroke, with the ball of your foot on the pedal, your knee should be at approximately a 20˚ bend (I think that's the correct one). This is where you get maximum power and you aren't damaging your knees internal structure. You can measure and adjust your bike yourself to get to this level - I was professionally fitted on one bike and now I go from those baselines and tinker with my bikes myself. However, you did pay for a fitting and so I would definitely be upset if I were you.

The last thing I might mention is - even with all the numbers in the world, a "perfect" fitting may still not actually fit you. You are you - not some numbers - and if you are still uncomfortable on the bike, you aren't fit properly. It's just like in medicine - the lab can give you all kinds of numbers from the blood, but you have to look at the patient, not the numbers, to get a true picture of what's going on. Have them fit you again, on this bike, and don't leave until you are really comfortable.

Laura, Please read these posts on our website - Bike Touring News regarding bike fit and bike size. If you need additional information go to rivbike.com and look at more info about measuring your PBH (Pubic Bone Height) also you can find video's on you tube about measuring your PBH. I can't touch the ground without tilting my bike, that isn't what is important. What is important is being confident and having a bike fit that gives you the confidence. Good job and do continue to question - it is all about you!!!

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Originally Posted by pll

I would be concerned about laura*'s comment about the parts -- if they put lower grade ones that those promised, I'd be upset. It can be a mistake (when I bought mine, they put the wrong pedals, but swapped them right away after checking the original order).

ETA: Re the components, if they upgraded the shifters and rear derailleur to 105 and downgraded the front derailleur and cranks, perhaps it is fair deal? I'd look up the values and I'm sure others here can provide some guidance on fairness...

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I checked the tech docs for the FC-R453 cranks. They are 9 speed cranks! (And older technology Tiagra level.) This leads to the question of how many speeds is the bike: 9 speed or 10 speed? (27 total or 30 total.) The R453 cranks may or may not work properly with a 10 speed chain.

For usability, it doesn't really matter if the bike is 9 speed or 10 speed. However, today I'd be afraid of getting a new build 9 speed bike. About the time that the brifters wear out, you might not be able to get new ones! You might be forced to buy an entire new groupset of whatever is current production at that time.

(A while back there was a woman here with a lovely older 7 speed Terry bicycle with worn out components. Shimano no longer sells 7 speed brifters nor 7 speed road bike cassettes. I think she found some used brifters, but otherwise it could turned into a full bike rebuild.)

If the bike was built as a 9 speed, then the brifters are already obsolete. Tiagra is just now moving to 10 speed - thus 9 speed Tiagra is the old generation. And 9 speed 105 is two generations old.

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Originally Posted by Sky King

Laura, Please read these posts on our website - Bike Touring News regarding bike fit and bike size.

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Antaresia is the one with the new bike...

More bike fitting information from this website.
http://masterbikefitters.com/


Bike fit vs bike sizing:
http://www.fitwerx.com/bike-sizing-v...g-fit-formulas

Clarity about heel touching pedal:
Misconception: “To achieve proper saddle position, raise the seat until your heel just touches the pedal at the bottom of the pedal stroke.”
Reality: Optimal saddle position cannot be accurately determined from a formula, by measuring the rider’s inseam, or any other general rules of thumb. Optimally, you want a saddle position that allows for full leg extension without hyper-extension, is within your range of motion, helps you maintain a stable pelvis, and encourages proper pedaling technique and optimal muscle recruitment. This is most accurately achieved through observation by a trained eye in conjunction with rider awareness.
http://www.fitwerx.com/most-common-fitting-misconceptions>

Did your fitting include any of these things in this video?
http://masterbikefitters.com/rider-first-fitting-video

Finally, when you picked up your bike did your fitter put the bike on the trainer and make adjustmentments to your saddle, handlebars, etc. Did he look at the angles of your hips and knees? My fitter spent at least 45 min. doing these things after my bike was set up.

Sounds like you got a sizing, not a fitting. If what you got was free, then you got what you paid for.

There certainly have been lots of great suggestions here, but I will also say that we(forum users) do NOT know the entire situation/conversation. That unfortunately is something that is lost through email/forum.

What I will say is this, this forum is great for giving suggestions for anyone, regardless of ability level. But in terms of fitting, it's pretty hard to do that by simply looking at a picture.Getting a fit is a great idea, but that knowledge has to be considered with each and every one of us. It is not as simple as looking at numbers and leaving it at that. There's also the converastion that happens between the person buying the bike, and the fitter... which is information we do not have.

My suggestion is to let Artaresia take these suggestions back to the shop with her, and let the two of them figure out what is comfortable. Whether that's another frame or more adjustments, is something that quite frankly is between the shop and Artaresia. Second guessing here on this forum without all of the information is simply making a decision without all of the facts.:rolleyes:

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Originally Posted by Kathi

More bike fitting information from this website.
http://masterbikefitters.com/


Bike fit vs bike sizing:
http://www.fitwerx.com/bike-sizing-v...g-fit-formulas

Clarity about heel touching pedal:
Misconception: “To achieve proper saddle position, raise the seat until your heel just touches the pedal at the bottom of the pedal stroke.”
Reality: Optimal saddle position cannot be accurately determined from a formula, by measuring the rider’s inseam, or any other general rules of thumb. Optimally, you want a saddle position that allows for full leg extension without hyper-extension, is within your range of motion, helps you maintain a stable pelvis, and encourages proper pedaling technique and optimal muscle recruitment. This is most accurately achieved through observation by a trained eye in conjunction with rider awareness.
http://www.fitwerx.com/most-common-fitting-misconceptions>

Did your fitting include any of these things in this video?
http://masterbikefitters.com/rider-first-fitting-video

Finally, when you picked up your bike did your fitter put the bike on the trainer and make adjustmentments to your saddle, handlebars, etc. Did he look at the angles of your hips and knees? My fitter spent at least 45 min. doing these things after my bike was set up.

Sounds like you got a sizing, not a fitting. If what you got was free, then you got what you paid for.

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Heck, when I got my low-end $300 hybrid, the guy who actually designed the bicycle spent a bunch of time dialing it in for me, no charge.

When I would take it in for tune-ups and such, he'd notice if the saddle had come down a little and whatnot and fix it.

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Originally Posted by ridebikeme

There certainly have been lots of great suggestions here, but I will also say that we(forum users) do NOT know the entire situation/conversation. That unfortunately is something that is lost through email/forum.

What I will say is this, this forum is great for giving suggestions for anyone, regardless of ability level. But in terms of fitting, it's pretty hard to do that by simply looking at a picture.Getting a fit is a great idea, but that knowledge has to be considered with each and every one of us. It is not as simple as looking at numbers and leaving it at that. There's also the converastion that happens between the person buying the bike, and the fitter... which is information we do not have.

My suggestion is to let Artaresia take these suggestions back to the shop with her, and let the two of them figure out what is comfortable. Whether that's another frame or more adjustments, is something that quite frankly is between the shop and Artaresia. Second guessing here on this forum without all of the information is simply making a decision without all of the facts.:rolleyes:

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That's why I posted the articles from the organization. To help her understand the goal of the services she received and what she needs to ask for. Only she can determine if the quality of service the shop provided was what she expected.

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Originally Posted by BC2COCyclist

Heck, when I got my low-end $300 hybrid, the guy who actually designed the bicycle spent a bunch of time dialing it in for me, no charge.

When I would take it in for tune-ups and such, he'd notice if the saddle had come down a little and whatnot and fix it.

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And when I bought my Aegis the guy I bought it from also spent a lot of time dialing it in, except, he was setting me up like the average riders he worked with. He would tell me, "keep riding, you'll get used to it". Including my fitting at another shop, it cost me about $700 to fix the mistakes he made.

Simply a reminder... a 'fit" is NOT something that generally happens in one visit. Sometimes, people can communicate enough to the fitter, and couple that with the fitters experience and they do hit it right the first time. Generally, however it's something that is a process, and that process involves alot of communication.

Regardless of whether the person is new to the bike/sport truly has nothing to do with it. An experienced/knowledgable fitter will know which questions to ask so that they can make the adjustments for that particular person.;)

Suggestions are wonderful, but the end all is the communication between the cyclist and the fitter. As they say" communication is what makes the world go round" and in this instance it's the most important part of the fit process.

What's going on with your bike? Any luck getting the lbs to help you?

update:

So, I went back to the LBS. Dude was really rude, I was really upset (I never did ask for a refund). He says "Well, I guess I should have gone over a few things with you, but I thought you could handle it" at which point I wanted to shake him, because I have a sneaking suspicion the reason he didn't "go over a few things" has everything to do with the fact I heard him say he wanted to leave work early that day and nothing to do with the fact he thought I could handle it, because I made it CLEAR that my total biking experience was limited to 5 months glued to a 30 year old mixte that was probably to small for me. But after that one dig (and some smaller ones that made it clear it was *my fault* I couldn't ride the frigging bike as it was); he honestly seemed to want to get the bike in a state where I could ride it. Anyway.

I spent some time there, no shims in the breaks, the seat was lowered, and switched. My bike feels a lot better, I can actually get on and off it without use of a sidewalk for a boost. I still need time to get used to it.

Part of me feels this should be love at first sight; and it's not. It still might be, I probably just need time. The bike just eats road miles, it has more "go" power than the beater. A lot more road buzz. My hands and elbows are sore. It's twitchy. It's hard to get on & off of it, or started if I'm not by a sidewalk. I think the drastic change from old bike to new is a lot; I will post more pictures when it's finished (fenders) and probably tell you all I'm liking it more than I do now.

Oh, and my co-workers didn't even notice I had new bike, but another regular on my commute did. Indecently, he's the only regular on my commute who also has a soma (the ES); so that did make me a feel good, haha.

That was a quick update! :D I guess we were posting at the same time.

Anyway, yes, give it some time to get to know it. I'd also check your tire pressure. It's sounds like you could back off a bit for comfort, and that might take care of the road buzz.

Oh, and I wanted to ask, are you starting with your butt already on the saddle?

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Originally Posted by redrhodie

Oh, and I wanted to ask, are you starting with your butt already on the saddle?

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No, I kind of have to "lift" myself onto it. Almost dumping the bike a few times has me too spooked to do the "sit on the bike & lean" kind of stop; but I remember when I was new to biking I actually did google "how to stop a bike". The video showed a stop where you totally get off the seat & peddles and just stand over the bike, I probably couldn't find it again but that's what I do. So to get on it again & get started, I push one pedal up, and used it as a step to get back in the saddle. It's impossible for me to get started with my butt in the saddle unless I'm by a sidewalk for the boost. I'm still a little clumsy, but I can tell I'm getting better.

I was going to say to (temporarily) lower your seat even more if you need to start from sitting, but what you're doing is great.

I hope you get comfortable with her really soon!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Antaresia

No, I kind of have to "lift" myself onto it. Almost dumping the bike a few times has me too spooked to do the "sit on the bike & lean" kind of stop; but I remember when I was new to biking I actually did google "how to stop a bike". The video showed a stop where you totally get off the seat & peddles and just stand over the bike, I probably couldn't find it again but that's what I do. So to get on it again & get started, I push one pedal up, and used it as a step to get back in the saddle. It's impossible for me to get started with my butt in the saddle unless I'm by a sidewalk for the boost. I'm still a little clumsy, but I can tell I'm getting better.

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I had mentioned leaning slightly when I get off my bike. I didn't realized you were trying to stay on the seat. I get off the seat and lean the bike over a bit as I stop. It helps me be sure that I clear the top tube. I leave my right foot on the pedal and my left foot goes on the ground and the bike leans to the left just a little. I never am on the seat. I can't be. It is rare that someone can stop and stay on the seat on your style of bike. If they can they either have long feet or the seat is too low. You will get used to starting as you say, by putting your leg over and give a push on one pedal, then get up on the seat as you get moving. It will be second nature soon.

I am glad that they are helping you get adjusted but it was really rude of the guy to make it your fault. Customer service rule number one is that if the fix is easy take all the blame and fix it.

It shouldn't even have been about blame! I mean, I know I'm new and not that great. I told him that many times. I don't need to feel bad about being new, I'm trying!

I taught 3 of my guy-friends to embroider (don't ask, lol). Ya, I ended up threading the needle for them a bunch of times (it was faster and they would get frustrated) but I never made it out to be *their fault*. Geez. I'm getting a new LBS once my bike is finished.

Your bike shop should be supportive and appreciate your business. They sound like they are not so helpful.