Chain replacing specs?

[jmilburn]

Hey there,
as much as I love my LBS, I do most of my own work, and I really hate to go in sounding clueless. My chain needs to be replaced soon, but I'm not sure what sort of digits, codes etc. I need to tell them. Are all chains the same size/type? I'm just learning things one part at a time, and I've yet to replace my chain. I don't have a chain tool yet (its shimano), so removing the chain and asking for a duplicate won't work. Any tips?

[DebW]

You need to know the number of cogs on the rear cassette. You'll ask for an 8-speed chain, a 9-speed chain, or a 10-speed chain. You need a chain tool to cut the new chain to the same length as the old one. SRAM chains are easy to install, as they have a powerlink that slides together to connect the chain. Shimano chains must be put together with a chain tool and a special pin, and the procedure is quite specific. Just read the directions that come with the chain.

[tzvia]

Yes as DebW mentioned, the rear cog count is the 'type' of chain. However, if your chain is worn out, you may want to also check your rear cogs as they may be worn too, along with the front chainrings. Putting a new chain (will be 'tighter' less space between each pin) on a worn cogset/chainring will contribute to bad shifting, chain skipping and possibly chain derailing. The cogs you use most may be quite worn so it is good to look at the whole drivetrain and determine it's overall health.

As for chain brands, I don't like SRAM. They are noisy and don't shift as crisply as Shimano or Wipperman. Wipperman is my favorite, and they make an easy to use quick-link which makes removing and installing it easy.

[wavedancer]

The ultimate chain-cleaning procedure from the venerable late Sheldon Brown:
http://sheldonbrown.com/chainclean.html

Note: originally posted April1, 2007

[jmilburn]

No...It does need more than a cleaning. Or at least I've never known chain stretch to go away no matter how much degreaser I use . The cogs are fine, but a friend of let me use his chain stretch tool, and it looks like its about time. So I guess i need a 9 speed SRAM chain, and a chain tool to cut the old shimano chain. Thats enough?
Thanks for the help

[Melalvai]

My old bike shop mechanic (and I confirmed with Sheldon Brown) said there's 2 sizes of chains (ignoring single speed & BMX for the moment): 2.30 mm width for 6-7-8 speed, and 2.29 mm for 9-10-11 speed. I'm suspicious that one-hundredth of a millimeter difference in width can matter at all?? Apparently when my chain broke my friend & I put a 9 speed chain on an 8 speed bike. My old mechanic said that could damage my cassette, could 0.01 mm difference really do that?

The chain is rubbing on the rear derailleur and it was when I called to find out what I should adjust, that this came up. He said don't adjust anything right now, just get the right size chain.

Nashbar has completely confused me. It looks like I could get a SRAM chain for $15 +sh which is pretty good, but if I don't want a SRAM chain I have to spend about $30? Is that typical? Should I look somewhere else for a chain? (I'd get it from LBS but that is 90 miles away. Rural living!)

The other thing I find confusing is that Nashbar sells 6/7/8, 7/8, 9, 10, and 11 speed chains. But there are only 2 widths, so what are all these chains?

[kermit]

Pick up a quick link and put it on the chain when you install. It makes it easier to remove and clean.

[nscrbug]

Just a word of caution about "quick links" and the NEWER Shimano (Ultegra 6700 and DA 7900) chains....

I recently replaced the stock chain (a SRAM 10spd) on my Cannondale Synapse. I wasn't happy with the way the chain was shifting and it was very noisy, too. Since most of my drivetrain (with the exception of my crank) is made up of Shimano Ultegra 6700 components, I opted to go with the 6700 chain. While I was at the LBS buying the chain, I was talked into getting one of those "quick links"...or as my LBS calls them "super links". My DH put the chain and superlink on my bike, and shortly after that is when I started to have some issues. I kept feeling a strange "clunking" sensation in my crank. For weeks this went on, until I finally broke down and brought the bike back to my dealer. They inspected the bottom bracket, the free wheel, the pedals, everything they could think of. When I got the bike back, I took it for a spin and the clunking was still there. My DH put the bike on our bike stand and after several frustrating hours of trying to figure out what was causing the "clunking", we finally struck gold! It was INDEED, the superlink getting caught up in the top jockey wheel of the rear derailleur. Every single time that superlink passed through that jockey wheel, it was rubbing the side of it...thus causing the clunking sensation that I was feeling through my pedals. I called my dealer up and ran our theory by them, and they did confirm to me that Shimano at one time, was packaging a quick link with their new DA 7900 chains, but started receiving many complaints similar to mine...so they have sinced pulled the quick links from the packaging and are now encouraging users of the new Shimano chains to use the conventional "pins" when installing the chain. As soon as we took out that superlink in my chain and replaced it with the regular "pins" that it came with, the bike ran smooth and quiet. I know there will be some folks out there that will argue this, but personally, I am convinced that the newer Shimano chains simply do not run well with ANY type of quick-connecting link.

Linda

[laura*]

My old bike shop mechanic (and I confirmed with Sheldon Brown) said there's 2 sizes of chains (ignoring single speed & BMX for the moment): 2.30 mm width for 6-7-8 speed, and 2.29 mm for 9-10-11 speed.

There are two widths to consider: The interior width between the side plates, and the exterior width of the chain. The 9+ speed chains keep getting narrower on the outside.

Nashbar has completely confused me. It looks like I could get a SRAM chain for $15 +sh which is pretty good, but if I don't want a SRAM chain I have to spend about $30? Is that typical? Should I look somewhere else for a chain?

This is the time of year when the bike business is low on stock. Stocks have been decimated by a (northern hemisphere) summer of riding. Many cyclists are now putting their bikes into winter storage. Bike shops don't want to carry a large parts inventory over the winter. At the same time, next years bikes are now being assembled in Asian factories. The component manufacturers are too busy supplying the assemblers to be able to fill the retail pipeline. A few weeks ago, the co-op where I volunteer was unable to get any cheap bulk SRAM 6-7-8 speed chain. Nashbar's business model as mostly a clearance and overstock retailer will be doubly hit by the inventory issues. They might have had $20 and $25 chains, but those are now sold out for the season.

Nashbar also rarely even carries a full selection. For Shimano 6-7-8 speed chain, I've usually seen them carry the top of the line HG91, but not the cheaper HG70, HG50, or HG40. This may also explain the price jump you saw.

[kfergos]

Another option is to just take your bike to the bike shop and say, "I'd like to get a replacement for my chain." They'll glance at your chain and hand you the right thing, no problem.

[aicabsolut]

Just a word of caution about "quick links" and the NEWER Shimano (Ultegra 6700 and DA 7900) chains....

I recently replaced the stock chain (a SRAM 10spd) on my Cannondale Synapse. I wasn't happy with the way the chain was shifting and it was very noisy, too. Since most of my drivetrain (with the exception of my crank) is made up of Shimano Ultegra 6700 components, I opted to go with the 6700 chain. While I was at the LBS buying the chain, I was talked into getting one of those "quick links"...or as my LBS calls them "super links". My DH put the chain and superlink on my bike, and shortly after that is when I started to have some issues. I kept feeling a strange "clunking" sensation in my crank. For weeks this went on, until I finally broke down and brought the bike back to my dealer. They inspected the bottom bracket, the free wheel, the pedals, everything they could think of. When I got the bike back, I took it for a spin and the clunking was still there. My DH put the bike on our bike stand and after several frustrating hours of trying to figure out what was causing the "clunking", we finally struck gold! It was INDEED, the superlink getting caught up in the top jockey wheel of the rear derailleur. Every single time that superlink passed through that jockey wheel, it was rubbing the side of it...thus causing the clunking sensation that I was feeling through my pedals. I called my dealer up and ran our theory by them, and they did confirm to me that Shimano at one time, was packaging a quick link with their new DA 7900 chains, but started receiving many complaints similar to mine...so they have sinced pulled the quick links from the packaging and are now encouraging users of the new Shimano chains to use the conventional "pins" when installing the chain. As soon as we took out that superlink in my chain and replaced it with the regular "pins" that it came with, the bike ran smooth and quiet. I know there will be some folks out there that will argue this, but personally, I am convinced that the newer Shimano chains simply do not run well with ANY type of quick-connecting link.

Linda

My 6700 chain is working fine with a SRAM quick link. The reason I had to put it on is because my LBS installed the chain backwards at first (6700 is uni-directional), which created a strange noise (and fixing that required breaking the chain again). Even so, I think I'm going to go back to KMC chains and KMC master links after this chain wears out.

[f/64]

Those sram chains/setups - sounds like a lawnmower..

Check out some KMCX9 SL.. or some Dura Ace chains if you're looking for quality