That's pretty funny!"saddle whoas"![]()
That's pretty funny!"saddle whoas"![]()
Lisa
My mountain dulcimer network...FOTMD.com...and my mountain dulcimer blog
My personal blog:My blog
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The effective length of a stem is a function of both its actual length and rise. Rise essentially offsets length. So a 100 mm stem with a 6 degree rise may be the same effective length as a 90 mm stem with no rise. The difference between a 70 mm and a 120 mm stem is relatively significant, regardless of rise. Same with the wrong fore/aft position.
I'm not sure you really need to get overly bogged down on this however. Start with your local fitter's suggestion and have him put a 70 mm stem on your bike. Ask him if the shop will exchange the stem if it ends up feeling too cramped. If you feel cramped, try the next size upask him if you can try a longer stem (go up in small intervals). You can also increase your options by getting a riser stem that can be "flipped."
As for saddles, Terry makes various "Butterfly" models. Each are a bit different.
I agree that you should get fit properly on your bike before you start auditioning saddles. Fit affects how your're sitting on the saddle. For instance, the wrong saddle height can make an otherwise good saddle feel awful.
Live with intention. Walk to the edge. Listen hard. Practice wellness. Play with abandon. Laugh. Choose with no regret. Continue to learn. Appreciate your friends. Do what you love. Live as if this is all there is.
--Mary Anne Radmacher
You are missing the fact that the head tube is angled. So, while angling the stem indeed shortens the reach as you drew, don't forget to consider the head tube angle when you run your projections.
I find the following calculator helpful when comparing stems:
http://www.habcycles.com/fitting.html
Thx, Trisk for posting that. I had found it searching TE and still couldn't wrap my mind aroud the math. I'm thick-skulled when it comes to math. I think, I almost get it...
OK, this set up I test rode was this:
70.1 HT angle (part that throws me-it's diff than avg basic example--he says you can add a calculation step to correct this)
120mm stem w/ 6 degree rise
51cm TT, but pushed back a wee bit... maybe 0.5cm, so TT 51.5cm effective
HT 110mm, no spacers underneath stem
The shop guy measured the drop of the bars to be about 1 inch below the saddle this way. My spine was pretty straight looking in the mirror, but it seemed a bit streched to the hoods on the trainer. When I got outside riding, it seemed better/shorter. Hmm.
Indysteele.... Thx... this makes more sense now. I have 2 Terry saddles in my "home collection" that I am going to re-try. I have wondered all along if a tri saddle might be good for me. I think part of my issue for saying this I found on TE. It was thread about ladies hormones changing and suddenly having saddle issues. My gyn doc says our tissues thin in times of perimenopause (like me). Too thick of chamois causes chaffing elsewhere for me I've found. So, if my body can make up the cushion diff, maybe a wee bit more cushion on the nose area (like tri saddles have) might be the right combo. After the correct fit of course.
Alpinerabbit... Thx for posting this pic! I'm a visual person and that seals the effect of the actual stem rise in my mind. I just need to finish what Trisk is telling me about the HT angle now...
This chart says it all:
http://www.habcycles.com/fitting.html
Ana... I think for me it was just getting the whole bike overall to fit me better, vs being too big and fighting to ride it almost. Though that gel Terry is for sure on my list to try now!
BSG... lol, I love TE, it always seems to give my spirits a lift when I need it... glad to return the service.