Shifting problem

I do not know what to think. Last Sunday my LBS adjusted both front and rear derailleurs because they were shifting very roughly, chain making lots of noise, and my chain was falling off the front.

Took it for a short ride twice since then - those were fine. Today went for a 55 mile ride and the problems started up again. This time, however. I noticed that the problem was only in the middle ring (I have a triple). Lots of noise and long after shifting the chain "catches" and so forth. This has been known to cause my foot to come off the pedal!

I wound up spending as much time as I could in the big or granny gears - and things were as smooth as silk.

Any ideas what might cause this? I am going to ride to my LBS tomorrow afternoon - and thankfully they do not charge for that. I am starting to get concerned that something else might be going on. I only have 750 miles on the bike - 710 miles since my LHT conversion.

Is this sort of thing normal sometimes, that it needs adjustment so often? If so - then I need them to teach me how to do it myself....

I do this. The rear cog is somewhere in the middle when I shift the front - but I am not talking about what happens when I shift the front (that is fine) the problem is when I shift the rear cog. Pretty much ANY shifting of the rear cog when I am in the middle chain causes all kinds of noises and catching and not-fun things to happen. Other two chains are fine when I shift the rear cog.

Sorry for any confusion.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Muirenn

I see:)

In that case hopefully the earlier post might pertain to someone else. Because I've no idea what would cause that.

---

Oh it certainly pertained to me in the not so distant past :p

Last weekend it was happening with any shifting, regardless of what chain I was in. They adjusted both derailleurs - actually they worked with it for quite a bit. They probably just need to tweak that adjustment.

It was the only thing that kept me from having a perfect ride today - and I did figure out how to get around it - by avoiding the middle chain entirely :eek:

If they did a big adjustment - i.e., had to re-position the cable in its clamp rather than just using the barrel adjusters - then the cable and housings will re-seat a bit just as they did when everything was brand new. So, probably normal.

You should learn to do this yourself. It's very simple. Most LBS will be happy to show you.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by OakLeaf

If they did a big adjustment - i.e., had to re-position the cable in its clamp rather than just using the barrel adjusters - then the cable and housings will re-seat a bit just as they did when everything was brand new. So, probably normal.

You should learn to do this yourself. It's very simple. Most LBS will be happy to show you.

---

He appeared to do a fair amount to both front and back - he did more than adjust the barrel adjusters. He also adjusted the stops(?) on the FD to help prevent the chain from falling off.

I'm trying to remember what kind of shifters you have on your flat bars, so I may be completely off here.

Has anyone explained "trimming" the derailleur to you?

Indexed brifters have pretty much one click or two half clicks and BOOM the front der is where it is gonna be. Some of the bar shifters have lots and lots of clicks, and your front der has several choices of where it can be. They act almost like friction shifters.

For sake of illustration, assume here I'm talking about a bar shifter with infinite clicks, or friction shifters:

Whaling the shifter to one extreme or the other pops the chain onto the big or small ring, and the derailleur cage (if the limiter screws are set just so) is pretty much out of the way of the chain as you merrily zip through the rear cassette. (assuming here you are not cross-chaining, which I know you know about)

The middle ring can get kind of exciting, because the cage can be centered on the ring, or more toward the big ring, or more toward the small ring. The chain can be merrily whipping through the cage in the middle ring and rub against the cage sides if it is too far one way or the other. If it is a bit too far one way or the other, the chain will rub as you shift the rear der and the line of the chain changes.

There is nothing wrong with the shifter or the der. This is just how it works. It has an arc of travel. At each end of the arc there is a ring ready and waiting. Somewhere in the middle of the arc is the middle ring. You get the chain onto the middle ring, and if you hear chain hitting der cage, you finesse the cage away from the running chain by moving the der a smidgen. (on my twist shifts, it was a couple tiny clicks, on my trigger shifts it was one click, on my friction shifts it is a smidgen) That trims the derailleur.

Here's your experiment for the day:
Take the bike out, ride around, shift into the middle ring. Get off the bike. Look at the chain, see where it sits relative to the two sides of the der cage. Now, move your left shifter a smidgen. See how the cage moves but the chain is still on the middle ring? Move that cage until the inside plate is touching the chain. Now move it until the outside plate is touching the chain. Now move it until it is centered. Get on the bike again. Ride a few yards. Does it make noise? Shift up and down the cassette. If it makes noise, move the left der a smidgen. If that causes MORE noise, move the left der the other way TWO smidgens. Voila! You've trimmed your front derailleur!

Of course, if you can't move the front der a smidgen and eliminate the noise you get from changing rear cogs.... then what I've just told you is useless and your shop needs to give you a hand.

But maybe it would be useful for someone else.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by KnottedYet

I'm trying to remember what kind of shifters you have on your flat bars, so I may be completely off here.

Has anyone explained "trimming" the derailleur to you?.....

Of course, if you can't move the front der a smidgen and eliminate the noise you get from changing rear cogs.... then what I've just told you is useless and your shop needs to give you a hand.

But maybe it would be useful for someone else.

---

I have trigger shifters - and someone has explained how to trim it - though it is only available to me if I have shifted up from the granny chain (per my LBS). I will try your experiment this afternoon. I tried to trim yesterday with the smidgen click on the shifter - but little seemed to help when I was in the middle chain. That does not mean that I was trimming it correctly...

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Catrin

I have trigger shifters - and someone has explained how to trim it - though it is only available to me if I have shifted up from the granny chain (per my LBS). I will try your experiment this afternoon. I tried to trim yesterday with the smidgen click on the shifter - but little seemed to help when I was in the middle chain. That does not mean that I was trimming it correctly...

---

Seriously, get off the bike and watch the derailleur move. It's really cool, and it's the best way to see how it works. Watch how the chain line changes as you go through the cassette. Watch how the chain gets closer and farther from the der plates.

Seeing how it all moves and works together will help you diagnose things when they're goofy. Anything you see helps the mechanic, too.

And if you figure out why the chain is rubbing on the der cage so hard that it's making noise and trying to shift all by itself, you might be able to fix it on your own! (which is always VERY cool!)

You'll need to be turning the crank and the wheel for it to shift. A workstand is really helpful here, but you can find something to hook the top tube or the nose of the saddle on, or have a friend hold the rear of the bike up off the ground for you (I know you've mentioned grip issues, so holding it yourself might not be feasible).

Or you can do what I do: ride, shift, stop and look. ride, shift again, stop and look.

I've tried to hold the bike up and spin the pedals and shift and every dang time I've somehow managed to drop the bike on my own head. :confused: It's like magic.

Someday Santa will bring me a repair stand. (and a house, and a dedicated garage just for playing with bikes!)

You may be able to use the rack on your car (depending on what rack system you have) to support the bike while you spin the pedals and shift.

Before I got a repair stand, I could set my bike rack up on my deck railing. Enabled me to do a few repairs this way, but the low height made it hard on my back to do anything too involved.

But since this problem only shows up in the middle ring, and she has said she's had the chain come off a few times, I'd check for a worn or bent sprocket on the middle ring. Sight down the middle ring while slowly turning the pedals and make sure that every tooth is aligned.

The FD behaved better on my ride today - but there were not many hills today so I spent a good amount of time in the big chain. After dinner I will get my rack back on my car and get the bike up there and see what I can see.

Thanks for the advice on how to proceed and at least it will help me discuss it a bit more intelligently with my LBS if I need to later this week. They will be installing/adjusting my new saddle so it will be good timing.

I really hope it isn't a bent sprocket - that sounds expensive :eek: The fact remains that whatever the problem is - adjustment or something else - it seems focused on that middle ring. To the best of my memory THIS bike has not fallen over on that side...

Once I move in the fall, I am going to start saving for a work stand. I think it will make everything easier and help to keep that nice new apartment looking nice.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Catrin

I really hope it isn't a bent sprocket - that sounds expensive :eek:

---

Naw. $20-$25.

The crank teeth look fine - at least to my inexperienced eye they do.

I did note that for some reason the chain in the middle chain ring does rub the side of the FD quite a lot. I also noticed this happening whether I trimmed it or not. Perhaps it still isn't adjusted quite right?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Catrin

The crank teeth look fine - at least to my inexperienced eye they do.

I did note that for some reason the chain in the middle chain ring does rub the side of the FD quite a lot. I also noticed this happening whether I trimmed it or not. Perhaps it still isn't adjusted quite right?

---

Try moving it more. Two smidgens. Three smidgens. Four smidgens. Move the shifter enough that the cage is centered relative to the chain. (trimming it means centering it or at least moving it enough that the chain isn't hitting the side plates of the der cage) Play with it. Move the cage so the chain touches one side, then move the cage so it touches the other side. Get a feel for just how much you can move that cage within the arc around the middle chainring without actually shifting the chain to the next ring.

It's like doing the waltz with your shifter, derailleur, chainrings, and chain. Find their happy place, where they work together and keep the beat.

It could also be that the cage is set at a sharp angle to the chain line where you just can't trim it.

If you can't figure it out and do take it to the LBS, have them show you exactly what is going on and exactly how to fix it. Knowledge is power! :D

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by KnottedYet

Try moving it more. Two smidgens. Three smidgens. Four smidgens. Move the shifter enough that the cage is centered relative to the chain. (trimming it means centering it or at least moving it enough that the chain isn't hitting the side plates of the der cage)

It could also be that the cage is set at a sharp angle to the chain line where you just can't trim it.

If you can't figure it out and do take it to the LBS, have them show you exactly what is going on and exactly how to fix it. Knowledge is power! :D

---

It only allows me to move it one smidgen and the next one puts me onto the next ring - it is indexed only. I will ask for more information this week when I take my bike to get the new saddle. Last week they adjusted the location of the cage and also changed where the stops were?

At least I got to see what is actually happening and can have a better discussion about it. Thanks!

Well, if they changed the cage angle, that could be the problem.

Make sure they show you what is up, and how to fix it yourself next time.

I was having the same problem with my Trek 520 especially on the middle ring too. I had my LBS adjust the rear dérailleur and it fixed the problem for a while. It started happening again and I was about ready to take the bike in again. The bike is only 4 months old too.

I think I figured out my problem though...... I commute to work and ride 9 miles in really dusty conditions on an old railroad bed. My drivetrain was getting pretty dirty within just a few days time. I can even see a thin layer of dust on the bike when I get home.

Whenever my shifting starts getting rough, I started just giving the bike and especially drivetrain a thourough cleaning and re-lube and the problem ( for me ) goes away. I actually just ordered myself a set of full-fenders so, hopefully it will help protect my drivetrain from road dirt and grime. I think I need a better chain lube too. My LBS used White Lightning... Self cleaning wax lube.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Trek-chick

I was having the same problem with my Trek 520 especially on the middle ring too. I had my LBS adjust the rear dérailleur and it fixed the problem for a while. It started happening again and I was about ready to take the bike in again. The bike is only 4 months old too.

I think I figured out my problem though...... I commute to work and ride 9 miles in really dusty conditions on an old railroad bed. My drivetrain was getting pretty dirty within just a few days time. I can even see a thin layer of dust on the bike when I get home.

Whenever my shifting starts getting rough, I started just giving the bike and especially drivetrain a thourough cleaning and re-lube and the problem ( for me ) goes away. I actually just ordered myself a set of full-fenders so, hopefully it will help protect my drivetrain from road dirt and grime. I think I need a better chain lube too. My LBS used White Lightning... Self cleaning wax lube.

---

When I had my bike on my car's bike rack last night I noticed that the RD and some other places looked pretty dirty, perhaps this is a similar problem. I use Rock and Roll dry lube which is a good lube - but have been unsure how often to relube and how often to clean and relube. I am averaging 100 miles a week right now so perhaps this is a part of the equation as well. I had not thought about this.

I think a work stand would make it easier for me to clean :)

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Catrin

When I had my bike on my car's bike rack last night I noticed that the RD and some other places looked pretty dirty, perhaps this is a similar problem. I use Rock and Roll dry lube which is a good lube - but have been unsure how often to relube and how often to clean and relube. I am averaging 100 miles a week right now so perhaps this is a part of the equation as well. I had not thought about this.

I think a work stand would make it easier for me to clean :)

---

My theory is this: 90% of all problems are caused by a too-dirty bike or a too-clean one (yeah, I have stories of trashed hubs and bottom brackets). Any time something's acting funny, start with a cleaning. You might solve it and, at the worst, your bike will be nice and clean when it goes to the mechanic. Trust me, the mechanic appreciates this very much! :cool:

If you're just cleaning with rags and water (no- or low-pressure), you really can't over-clean. My rule of lubing is to lube by ear. When you start hearing your chain, lube again and make a mental note of how long it's been since last time. Next time, lube a day or two (or xx miles) earlier ;)

And yes, workstands make the whole job easier on the back and faster overall!

Keeping the drivetrain clean is good, and a dirty or dry chain can be noisy, but it doesn't cause misalignment.

Having had an issue with a FD turning on the frame, I'd be surprised if that's the issue. Mine wouldn't shift to the small ring at all, but the chain wasn't rubbing in the middle ring.

Is it rubbing on the same side of the cage regardless of what gear you're in? Or is it rubbing on the inside in certain gears and the outside in others?

Or maybe it's too high, and rubbing the pin that connects the sides of the cages??



ETA, completely unrelated to your shifting issue:

Quote:

---

there were not many hills today so I spent a good amount of time in the big chain

---

Do you have a cadence monitor? What kind of cadence are you maintaining? I don't remember what your gearing is and wouldn't have a clue which thread to find it in, but I'd be surprised if it's so low that you really ought to be using the big ring under 20 mph...

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by OakLeaf

Keeping the drivetrain clean is good, and a dirty or dry chain can be noisy, but it doesn't cause misalignment...


...I'd be surprised if it's so low that you really ought to be using the big ring under 20 mph...

---

I was wondering about shifting under load pulling things out of alignment, but I already wrote a tome on trimming; someone else can write about shifting under load.

According to Surly: 26-36-48. 11-34

Well thank goodness for Sheldon then.

I don't know why the forum software is only showing a thumbnail of the chart at 80 rpm ... but you can click on the link for the 90 rpm chart.


Shifting under load (i.e. avoiding same) isn't that complicated. :D Catrin, has someone already explained that to you? The bike won't shift smoothly if you're putting a lot of pressure on the pedals, which makes the top of the chain super tight. Shifting under load can cause the chain to drop, it puts excess wear on the drivetrain, makes an awful noise while you're doing it (but not afterward), and can even cause immediate damage in extreme cases. When you shift, you need to be pedaling, but back off the pressure and soft-pedal. Ever shift a car without using the clutch (or with a worn-out second gear synchro :rolleyes:)? You know how you have to get your RPMs in the right place to sync, then take your foot off the gas while you throw the gearshift? Same idea.

It can be tough when you're climbing a steep hill and realize that you've waited too long to downshift. The hill was steeper or longer than you realized when you chose your gear, and now you're going 4 mph at 45 rpm and you have a lower gear that you really want to grab. I know I occasionally wind up in that situation. :o When you shift, take as much load as you can off the pedals without falling over...

Still ... I can't see how shifting under load would pull the FD out of alignment unless the clamp was loose to begin with - especially on a steel frame where you don't have to be quite so ginger about the clamp torque. And I really don't think a FD could be so twisted that it would make noise all the time, but still allow you to shift into all three chainrings.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by OakLeaf

Well thank goodness for Sheldon then.

---

Yeah! Can you put up the link? I gotta run catch my bus.

Linky. You can plug in your gearing (stock cassette or custom) and wheel size and get gear ratios, gain ratios (if you put in your crankarm length), meters development or speed at a selection of cadences in mph or kph.

The reason I've taken to using my big chain on flattish ground is that my chain doesn't make noise there and behaves itself. My rear cassette is 11-34, and some of the jumps between gears are pretty large.

In some cases I have a smaller range if I jump between the chains for some of the gear progression - someone checked out the gear ratio for my bike on Sheldon's site and suggested it. I've also found that I go a couple of mph faster if I am in the big chain on flattish ground (with the middle gear on the rear). My max speed so far that isn't downhill is 19.9 mph.

Oakleaf - it rubs on the same part of the FD cage regardless of what gear I am in.

As far as cadence is concerned, I try my best to keep it between 80-95 and as generally close to 85-89 as I can. Going uphill can generally keep it in the 70's - though when I am really struggling to get up that hill I don't think to look at my cadence but am focusing purely on perceived effort. On sprint intervals I am paying attention to my HRM (it is mounted on my bike) but can get cadence to 105 and this is typically on the big chain.

I understand about trying not to shift under load, so I try to anticipate when I will need to shift and to do it a little early, but not so early that I lose all of my speed too early. I am not successful with this much of the time but I seem to be improving.

I do try to "soft pedal" when I shift, and sometimes will even coast for the briefest of seconds while I shift and then start pedaling to complete the shift. This is a carry-over from when I first started to learn how to shift and at that time my coordination was worse and would go all over the road if I tried to shift and pedal at the same time :o I will pay attention to this in case I am not soft-pedaling as much as I think I am...

Thanks everyone, you have given me some things to think about and check out. Cleaning my drive train does seem a good idea, but there does seem to be more going on than that. At least my LBS will appreciate a clean bike later this week!

Which part of the cage does the chain rub? That'll help isolate what needs adjustment.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by OakLeaf

Which part of the cage does the chain rub? That'll help isolate what needs adjustment.

---

Standing at the rear of the bike looking at the FD, it is the upper right part of the cage. There is a part there that comes down, then goes over to the right - which is the perfect place for the chain to rub. And so it does.

Is that a good enough description? I can always take a pic tonight and post it...

mmmkay. It sounds like your cable just needs a little tightening (just as I originally thought - after the shop repositioned the cable, everything will settle a little and need a tweak within a few rides). But two last questions to be sure. :cool:

Does it rub when you're in your very tallest gear (your 48x11)?

What about in your very shortest gear (your 26x34)?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by OakLeaf

mmmkay. It sounds like your cable just needs a little tightening (just as I originally thought - after the shop repositioned the cable, everything will settle a little and need a tweak within a few rides). But two last questions to be sure. :cool:

Does it rub when you're in your very tallest gear (your 48x11)?

What about in your very shortest gear (your 26x34)?

---

It mainly only rubs in the middle chain - they originally had it adjusted so that I could use the tallest gear on the middle chain without rubbing, but now it always rubs once I get higher than the middle gear (if 1=lowest, it now rubs on gears 6-9 on the back;s sometimes even on 5). This doesn't leave many effective non-rubbing gears for me on the middle chain...

I do not recollect rubbing in the shortest gear when in the middle chain - but I am so rarely there. Typically by that point I probably have already headed down to the granny chain.

Very occasionally it will rub on the other two chains, but rarely. I try to be very conscious about cross-chaining - especially on the granny and big chains.

All of this is very helpful in understanding all of this. It is time for me to understand my drive-train, and once they show me how to adjust this I will be good to go :)

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Catrin

It mainly only rubs in the middle chain - they originally had it adjusted so that I could use the tallest gear on the middle chain without rubbing, but now it always rubs once I get higher than the middle gear (if 1=lowest, it now rubs on gears 6-9 on the back;s sometimes even on 5). This doesn't leave many effective non-rubbing gears for me on the middle chain...

---

Without re-reading everything previously posted, this sounds like a tension issue to me (assuming that FD body is in the right position to begin). Trimming can sometimes be done on the middle chainring, depending on the shifters, and sometimes not. Setting up a triple to use all cogs while in the middle ring and without trimming is tricky business.

Okay. Try just tightening the cable and I bet that'll solve your problem.

You ought to have a barrel adjuster on the cable housing. Likely it's integrated into your shifter perch. Possibly it splits the housing near the shifter.

Shift into your small chainring to take the maximum tension off the cable. Feel the cable near the FD, is there a little slack in it? There shouldn't be. It should be taut but not super tight. Turn the barrel adjuster in the direction that lengthens the housing until all slack is removed from the cable and any further tightening moves the derailleur. If it isn't obvious which direction that is, turn the adjuster in each direction with a finger on the cable to find which way makes it tighter and which way makes it looser.

Once you've taken all the slack out of the cable, stay in your small chainring, but trim it one click to the up-side, and shift to your small cassette cog. Cross-chaining - you wouldn't do this on the road, but to tweak the derailleur adjustment you need to. Is it rubbing? If so, continue to turn the adjuster until it no longer rubs.

Now leave your RD in the highest gear, shift up into your big chainring, trim it so it's in its farthest outside position, and make sure the FD isn't rubbing there. If it is, tighten the cable a little bit more. (The cable will already be very tight here. Since you have finger/hand strength issues, you may need to shift the FD back down to the small chainring to be able to turn the adjuster. If that's the case, just turn it about half a turn, shift back up to the big ring and see if that took care of it.)

Go up and down through the gears both front and back to check the adjustment in all positions. If all seems good, you're done.

Cool! I will try tonight - or tomorrow night if I get home too late tonight (alarm goes off at 4am).

Thanks - and will report back here when I've done this.

Oakleaf -

I followed your directions and noted a good amount of slack in the cable on the FD side of the bike. The OTHER side was even looser but I left it alone. When I had removed the noise in the first step I cross-chained it in the granny gear and did not notice any noise.

Then I shifted into the big gear and found that the cable was looser and rubbing the FD so am continuing to tighten it. The other cable is now more taut than the one on the DR side and I cannot seem to get the cable tighter than it is. Indeed, even with a lot of tightening it does not seem to be significantly tighter - though the cable on the other side is. Does that make sense?

I will have the guys at my LBS check it Friday when I pick up my new saddle

Um.

What's the second cable?

The one I was talking about was the one in the pictures on this page.

It's possible your high limit screw is too close, keeping your FD from moving as far from the frame as it needs to when you're in the big ring, if tightening the cable isn't having any effect on that end. I wouldn't have expected the LBS to get that wrong, but it's possible. The page I linked to also has instructions for setting the limiter screws. It's also possible that you're at the limit of your barrel adjuster and you're just turning the loose end inside the housing, in which case the cable will need to be re-positioned in the clamp (again - which would be strange).

Anyway, I think you made progress? and learned something about your bike? and it isn't worse so you can still ride to the LBS? if so, good. :o:)

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by OakLeaf

Um.

What's the second cable?

The one I was talking about was the one in the pictures on this page.

It's possible your high limit screw is too close, keeping your FD from moving as far from the frame as it needs to when you're in the big ring, if tightening the cable isn't having any effect on that end. I wouldn't have expected the LBS to get that wrong, but it's possible. The page I linked to also has instructions for setting the limiter screws. It's also possible that you're at the limit of your barrel adjuster and you're just turning the loose end inside the housing, in which case the cable will need to be re-positioned in the clamp (again - which would be strange).

Anyway, I think you made progress? and learned something about your bike? and it isn't worse so you can still ride to the LBS? if so, good. :o:)

---

Ummm, I thought you were talking about the barrel adjuster on the cable - I have seen them adjust it when dealing with my FD. There are two of these on either side....I only adjusted one of them.

I hope I didn't mess anything up :o I do tend to forge ahead sometimes - but I am certainly learning more about my bike :D I think it is better in the granny gear - though not in the middle...my fingers may not be strong enough.

That looks like the correct adjuster (as long as it's the cable that goes to the FD), but I still don't know which other cable you're talking about?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by OakLeaf

Um.

What's the second cable?

The one I was talking about was the one in the pictures on this page.

It's possible your high limit screw is too close, keeping your FD from moving as far from the frame as it needs to when you're in the big ring, if tightening the cable isn't having any effect on that end. I wouldn't have expected the LBS to get that wrong, but it's possible. The page I linked to also has instructions for setting the limiter screws. It's also possible that you're at the limit of your barrel adjuster and you're just turning the loose end inside the housing, in which case the cable will need to be re-positioned in the clamp (again - which would be strange).

Anyway, I think you made progress? and learned something about your bike? and it isn't worse so you can still ride to the LBS? if so, good. :o:)

---

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by OakLeaf

That looks like the correct adjuster (as long as it's the cable that goes to the FD), but I still don't know which other cable you're talking about?

---

I could not seem to get a good shot of both - but there are two barrel adjusters on both sides of the down tube. I assume the other one goes to the RD? It isn't the brakes - that runs under the TT, so the second one MUST go to the RD.

I turned it upside down and that is indeed the case, one cable (and adjuster) per derailleur. I adjusted the wrong one :o Let's try this again :)

I can't move the barrel adjuster for the FD :o :rolleyes: and while it isn't rubbing in the big or small rings, it certainly still is in the middle. I will have my LBS check it out, but surely I should be able to use at least gears 6-8 in the back when I am in the middle. Until the most recent adjustment they had it set so I could actually use all 9 in the middle if I wanted to do so...

You know, this arthritis thing is a pain - though not literally unless my hands get in the wrong position (like with road bars) - it is my grip strength that is most affected and the intense strength training I've done this year has made no changes in that dept.

Would love to ride tonight to see if it is better - but at 95 degrees I suspect the only bike I will be riding tonight is the spinning bike at my club after my training appointment.

Bummer. :( Well, hopefully the LBS can show you what was off.

Hijack: Have you been working specifically on grip strength? Most common group fitness classes and weight machines give very little attention to the hands and forearms. I know it's tough with arthritis, but you seem to have been working hard and expecting results that aren't coming. Ask your trainer for some hand exercises if you're not doing them already.