orbea's maybe????????? i know at one time i saw you could get shimano or campy on an orbea... haven't looked in a while, though!
bianchi's?
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orbea's maybe????????? i know at one time i saw you could get shimano or campy on an orbea... haven't looked in a while, though!
bianchi's?
ahhhhhhh bluetree beat me to it!
Thanks for the update. I'm glad that they were able to tweak the fit of yoru current bike. Having followed this thread from the beginning, I'm curious: What bike are you currently riding and, if you don't mind me asking, what do you most want to achieve in upgrading to the Specialized?
But back to the current debate: I'm a Campy girl myself. I don't have Chorus on my current bike, just a mix of Veloce and Mirage (and a Chorus cassette thrown in for good measure), but I'm quite pleased with it. Everyone claims that the shifting with Campy gets better over time as it gets worked in, and that's been my experience as well. I run a Campy Ultranarrow chain and shifting in the rear is very smooth, minus the occasional r/d adjustment.
That said, I'm not a fan of the brakes and, having read up on it, it's the one part of Campy's line that doesn't always get rave reviews. If and when I have the pleasure of building up my dream bike, I'm going to use a different brand.
While I am a Campy fan, I'm not sure the LBS's proposal to swap out the 105 is very cost-effective. When I swamped out a few of my components, my LBS essentially charged me for the price difference between the Mirage and Veloce. From looking at the numbers your LBS quoted, however, it looks like they're charging you the full cost of a Chorus groupset (I'm basing that on Colorado Cyclist's price of $1215 for the 10-piece group; you could probably by a cheaper set on Ebay ). So, based on those figures, you're actually paying for two groupsets--the 105 that comes on the bike and the Chorus. At least to me, that doesn't make sense.
So, while I think the Chorus components are arguably a lot better than the 105 (and many Campy fans would argue that they're better than DuraAce, but let's not go there), I have to wonder whether it makes sense to do it that way. I still maintain that if you're willing to swap out components, you'd be financially better off doing a few choice upgrades to the Comp, e.g, your rear derailleur, to improve its performance. Otherwise, keep it simple and just buy the Expert or Pro.
Well, I did some calling around and found one shop that would sell the Ruby Pro to me for $325 less than my LBS. I called my LBS to see if they would match the price. They called me back and said that they gave me the lowest list price and that they could get in trouble with Specialized if they knew they sold it under the list price before the date they were allowed to drop the price.
Anybody know when this magical date is? Guess you have to have to have some inside bike shop knowledge to know about this.
Also, would you go to another shop to save $325? BTW, my local shop will give me free service on basic stuff for 1 year after the purchase price on bikes bought at their shop. I'd have to take the bike out of town to get it serviced if I wanted it done free for the first year. The other shop is only about 30 miles away but it still would be a pain. Hmmm.
And the plot thickens.
Man, that's a tough one. On one hand, I think it's important to have a good relationship with a local LBS. You never know when you're going to need their help in an emergency. On the other hand, saving $300 + dollars on an expensive bike is sweet. Would you feel comfortable telling your local LBS that you'd like to buy the bike from them, but can they give you a ballpark date for when the price might be more negotiable? If you could hold out until then, you might be able to work out a good deal.
Since you're thinking of pricing other bikes for comparison, I would suggest looking at the LeMonds, too. In December, a friend of mine bought a 2007 full carbon, Ultegra equipped bike that lists around $2200. Stylewise, it wasn't my cup of tea, but she likes it.
I drive 35 miles to get my bike serviced, it is the service that counts for me and I will drive a modest amount for it. The shop won a sale from me based on their service to my other bikes. Of course I do work 8 miles from the shop, so if I go on a week day it is an easier drive. ;)
Why not try the other shop since you seem to have reservations about your LBS. Just see what the other shop has to offer since it is only 30 miles. I want to hear what others say about the LBS pricing. One shop here sells everything (Specialized and Trek) below MSRP and I don't think they are getting in any trouble since the Discovery Team frequently comes for appearances. :confused:
I just wanted to add that while the FSA compact cranks are amazing (love the gearing), shifting into the big ring is a pain in the butt with a standard Shimano double FD, which is what my bike (Roubaix comp) came with. I've had it 6 months, and I've already worn a lot of the teeth on the big ring. I have only recently started using the big ring with any real frequency. It's very easy to drop a chain, and recently the whole crankset locks up occasionally when the chain gets stuck half way on the big ring--you can fix it by slightly backpedaling, for anyone else who runs into that problem.
Some of these complaints seem to be pretty standard for the FSA set, particularly when you aren't given the magic FD that makes it happy.
When I tried the bike, the FSA was so much better than the 105 triple on the Elite. I didn't try the Pro (there was no Roubaix Expert) because it was outside the budget I had set. It's just gotten harder and harder. I take really good care of the chain, cassette, and crankset. But this seems like abnormal wear on the outer ring to me. I took it to a shop recently to figure out a weird noise I started hearing, and the guy who rode it around for me said he couldn't replicate the noise, but he complained enough about my FD and shifting into the big ring. Maybe he put a curse on it, because it keeps getting worse.
For my next bike, I'll save up more and probably go with any compact I can find in DA or SRAM.
At the least, I'd talk to the shop about their service plans and what they could do for you if the FSA set gives you problems. (I emailed FSA customer service about my issues, and they say I have to take it to the shop for them to determine if it could be something under warranty).
Saturday I went to the LBS and took the Ruby Comp triple out for a test ride. It is the same frame as the Ruby Pro. The shifting was so much smoother than on my Allez triple. The bike felt much lighter and climbing was easier. I was amazed that climbing out of the saddle was a LOT easier than on my current bike. I didn’t get fatigued as quickly. Unfortunately it was a triple so I’m not sure how the shifting between chain rings will feel on a compact double. The previous post is giving me some cause for concern. But I guess it is mute because……….
I bought the Ruby Pro!!!!!!!!! I am very excited. It should be here Thursday. I hope I didn’t make a mistake by buying a bike that I haven’t ridden or even seen. But from all the satisfied Ruby riders who helped me make my decision I don’t think I’ll be disappointed. Did I mention that I’m excited!?!?
congratulations! i hope you like it!!!!
as for buying without seeing or test riding.... i did that... well... i had no choice... i put my deposit down before they were ever in the stores! lol! i did have the back out though if i didn't like the color or it didn't fit since there was no way to try one on! (keep in mind... my rave review are based on a full DA setup.... the whole drivetrain, including crank and wheels! lol!)
hope you have many, many happy miles!!!!
I also wish you a huge CONGRATULATIONS also along with many enjoyable and safe riding miles.
Keep in mind, that the Pro compact double is FSA K-Force, carbon crankset. I think it is an upgrade from the average compact double. Shifting is so much easier than it was on my Dolce Comp which was a triple.
What a wonderful way to begin Spring 07 :)
~ JoAnn
caligurl, Jo-n-NY: Thank you both. Your input through this whole thing was invaluable. Thank you both so much. Another question. How do I care for a carbon frame. Is there anything I need to do differently in maintaining this bike? I can't wait to get her!!!
i just wipe mine down with the same stuff i use on my car (zaino z-6)
i had asked my bike shop about what to use when i first got ruby and they told me pledge! as for full on baths..... i'm not sure what hubby uses (i don't bathe the bikes :o ) but i have sprayed on that pink bikewash stuff and hosed it off at least once!
No, I LOVE my black Expert. :D It looks so sleek and fast, even if I'm not! And being a netural color it looks good no matter what I'm wearing. :p bikerHenQuote:
Originally Posted by caligurl
Congrats on the new bike!!!! I'm sure the Pro will be a fabulous ride. Many happy and safe miles.....
Kate
I didn't give this much thought and since I just got the bike last week, I have not cleaned it yet, although I went on 3 rides so I am going to run home and take a look and see if she should be cleaned. Anyway, I was just going to use my regular bike polish. Now you have me thinking and maybe I should ask my husband.Quote:
Originally Posted by li10up
~ JoAnn
I just called my LBS and my Ruby Pro is in and ready to be picked up! But I want to go on a club ride tonight so looks like one more ride on the old Allez tonight and I'll pick up the new one tomorrow when I get off work at noon! Only one more day of suspense!!!
Yey, I am leaving through your happy experience. Congruts and please pictures pictures!!!
wow!!! you've got more willpower than i have! i was down there IMMEDITATLY for both ruby and my MTB when i knew they were built!
That is strong will. When I got my Cannondale I had to remind myself how dangerous it would be to ride her around the neighborhood after dark (we didn't have street lights yet).
Bring on the pictures!!:D :D :D :D
Quote:
Originally Posted by li10up
Congratulations!!!!!! WOW, you are gonna LOVE your new bike :D Caligurl has one and it is probably one of the most beautiful bikes I've seen!
Can't wait to see pics!
trac'
... and it's very purdy too ;)Quote:
Originally Posted by bikerHen
Yeah, I really wanted to pick her up yesterday. But I figured by the time I did it would be too late to get a good ride in. Plus, I wanted to see how I'd do on the club intermediate ride last night. Also, I felt like I need to ride more in order to be deserving of such a fine machine. I'm all a-quiver....
I'm happy to report I was able to stay with the front group last night too! All around, life is good.
Quote:
Originally Posted by li10up
Good for you li10up!!!! I honestly believe you are very deserving of the Pro as anyone else here you would like to own one.
I took off of work yesterday and in between dr. appts, I took a quick 15 mile ride. I am so happy to report that I went through all the gears on both cranks in the front and my chain did not rub on any gear ratio. I do not think I went down to the easiest because I was on a flat stretch and I was spinning like crazy at some point down there and didn't want to fall over. You cannot beat the shifting on this bike. It also has a mechanism on the cable that gives you an idea where you are in the rear.
Ok...I will now await your report when you pick up yours.
~ JoAnn
well lookie what i found posted on the specialized rider's club site!
Quote:
So we have heard lots of questions about carbon fiber these days, and lots of Riders Club members have been writing to ask about caring for their carbon bikes. So us in the Carbon Engineering department sat down and put together this little tip sheet, to help you get the most from your carbon bike or components. Enjoy!
Carbon Tips from the Engineers at Specialized Bicycles
1. Do not use grease on any Carbon seatposts or Carbon seat tubes. What we have started to use in the shop is a product from TACX called Dynamic assembly compound. We have found that this product works very well with all the carbon products.
2. Always use a torque wrench! This is a VERY important tool for carbon fiber frame owners to have. It is much harder to determine the torque on a bolt by feel with carbon than it is with alloy. Overtorquing is probably the biggest cause of cracks that we see in carbon products.
3. It is fine to wash the bikes with soapy water and a hose, and like any bike, it's never a good idea to aim the water directly at bearings (headsets, cranks, etc). We recommend hosing the bike off, then washing with a brush, sponge and a bucket of warm soapy water of diluted Simple Green. Finally, rinse carefully.
4. After a wash, use Pledge furniture polish or something like Pedro's bike lust to put a nice new shine back onto the bike.
5. If you have any stone chips or have had chain suck, then it is a good idea to protect the raw carbon finish with either a clear tape or some clear nail polish.
6. If a frame has been crashed, you should always have it inspected by your dealer.
7. When cutting components (handlebars and seatposts, etc):
- We recommend using a carbon-specific hacksaw blade. These blades essentially “sand” through the carbon instead of tearing through with teeth, which tend to fray and splinter the fibers in the composite. It’s also good practice to wrap the carbon with tape before cutting, though this is less necessary when using a carbon-specific blade.
- Pay particular attention to the orientation of the seat collar. When using a carbon post, it’s very important to have the seat collar slot on the opposite side of the seat tube slot. This helps disperse loads better, reducing the possibility of pinching and crushing the seat post, as well as reducing frame damage. Diagonally slotted seat collars are highly recommended, and proper torque is crucial to long component and frame life.
Thanks Caligurl!!!!
Hi,
I have the Ruby Expert. an absolute dream of a ride. I wouldn't trade it for anything. It is a nice "middle ground" between the comp and the pro. I think you would love it just as much as I do. I always ride with a smile when I am out on my Ruby. I have a winter bike, a specialized Dolce.....feels like a tank compared to my Ruby. I don't rode the Ruby in the rain. Go for the Expert, it is a great ride.
Update: I have over 100 miles on the Ruby Pro now. She rides like a dream! I've lost quite a bit of downhill coasting speed but am doing better on the hills. My avg. speed on a 30 mile ride yesterday was 15.5. That's faster than I normally average on a 20 mile ride...and this ride had some hills on it...one pretty serious. I am loving this bike. I've found I can put about 5 more psi in the tires than on my Allez without sacrificing comfort. The Ruby really smooths out the ride! I might even try a few more psi. On the Allez I was at 95 psi and rode the Ruby yesterday at 100 psi. I can go up to 110 psi on the tires. Standing on hills is a completely new experience. When I did it on the Allez I felt like I was pulling something uphill. With the Ruby that feeling is gone. It takes much less effort to stand on the hills. I may be in love with a bike! :eek:
Thanks for the carbon care info!!!
Thanks for the update li10up!!! I have yet to try some hills on mine.
I am happy to hear you are truely happy with your decision in buying the pro.
~ JoAnn
Li10up,
Congrats on your beautiful new bike! :D
I am curious though...why is it that you "lost quite a bit of downhill coasting speed"- what causes that?
I look forward to a day when I don't feel like I'm pulling my bike uphill. I suspect I need stronger leg muscles!
Lisa, due to the bike weighing quite a bit less I don't have the momentum of that extra weight in effect pulling me downhill. That's why larger riders can coast downhill faster than light riders. I call my rotundness "superior coasting weight." A lighter bike is essentially the same thing. I'm hoping to make up the difference on the rest of the ride though...on the flats and hills.Quote:
Originally Posted by Lisa S.H.
Just get more aero on the downhills and you can coast pretty fast. I can usually keep up with the 53/11t gearing lot after I've run out of gears at 50/12t just by getting into a more aero position.
That's what I do...unfortunately that's what my riding buddies do too so I can't gain an edge. Oh well, it's a problem I don't mind having if it means having a lighter bike with better components.Quote:
Originally Posted by aicabsolut
Yeah, it will only do you so much good if your riding buddies have a significant weight advantage over you. Getting low so far helps me hang on in a race. I guess you'll have to stop coasting so much. ;)