cassette lock ring

When you purchase a new cassette, does the lock ring piece come with it? Or do you need to purchase this piece seperately from the stack of gear rings? :confused:

I believe I have everything I need to remove the cassette on my bike: cassette guide tool, chainwhip, wrench... except a torque measuring wrench.

I've had a diff set of wheels I've wanted to switch up. I am thinking about just getting an extra cassette to leave on the second wheel set so I wouldn't hafta switch it up every time.

TYIA:).

Yep, it does.

I've never used a torque wrench to change a cassette, mostly because my torque wrench and my cassette tool don't play well together.

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Originally Posted by Miranda

When you purchase a new cassette, does the lock ring piece come with it?

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Yes

Some come with, some do not. Even within a manufacturer - some Campy cassettes do, some don't. Usually, you can just use the lock ring from the old cassette, but that won't work for you, now, will it? :)

From Competitive Cyclist:
If you've purchased an 11/21 or 11/23 Campagnolo 10-speed cassette, they supply you with an 11t-specific lockring. If you've purchased one in any other ratio, they supply no lockring. Why? Because every 10-speed Campagnolo rear hub and prebuilt rear wheel was supplied with a lockring that functions with 12t and 13t high gear cassettes. These lockrings are non-interchangeable, i.e. the 11t lockring won't work with cassettes that start with a 12t or 13t cog. They're made from steel with a 27mm O.D.

These Campagnolo Cassette Lockrings are for 10-speed cassettes (all 11-speed Campagnolo cassettes come with lockrings).

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Originally Posted by Becky

Yep, it does.

I've never used a torque wrench to change a cassette, mostly because my torque wrench and my cassette tool don't play well together.

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Go to Sears and buy a 1" socket with a 3/8 drive and you can torque the lock ring tool.

11 tooth and 12 tooth cogs need a different lock ring.

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Originally Posted by DebW

Go to Sears and buy a 1" socket with a 3/8 drive and you can torque the lock ring tool.

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Brilliant....why didn't I think of that?!? I wonder if DH already has one.....

Thanks, Deb!

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Originally Posted by Pedal Wench

Some come with, some do not. Even within a manufacturer - some Campy cassettes do, some don't. Usually, you can just use the lock ring from the old cassette, but that won't work for you, now, will it? :)

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You took the words right out of my mouth. :D

Thanks... you guys rock:cool:!

I did search the old TE threads, and watch some YouTube vids... but couldn't quite tell. And... OK, hopefully I will be ok without the torque wrench.

I'd love to be able to toally wrench my own bikes. It's just the confidence after the fact if things are put back together / tightened correctly to be safe to ride. Plus, having the hand strenghth sometimes is an issue.

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Originally Posted by DebW

Go to Sears and buy a 1" socket with a 3/8 drive and you can torque the lock ring tool.

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OK... that has me curious... I wouldn't mind investing in a torque measuring wrench... but wasn't sure what is best to buy:confused:... sounds like you can adapt them also?

Sorry, little side chat here lol...:rolleyes:

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Originally Posted by Pedal Wench

Some come with, some do not. Even within a manufacturer - some Campy cassettes do, some don't. Usually, you can just use the lock ring from the old cassette, but that won't work for you, now, will it? :)

From Competitive Cyclist:
If you've purchased an 11/21 or 11/23 Campagnolo 10-speed cassette, they supply you with an 11t-specific lockring. If you've purchased one in any other ratio, they supply no lockring. Why? Because every 10-speed Campagnolo rear hub and prebuilt rear wheel was supplied with a lockring that functions with 12t and 13t high gear cassettes. These lockrings are non-interchangeable, i.e. the 11t lockring won't work with cassettes that start with a 12t or 13t cog. They're made from steel with a 27mm O.D.

These Campagnolo Cassette Lockrings are for 10-speed cassettes (all 11-speed Campagnolo cassettes come with lockrings).

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My components on my main roadie are Shimano Ultergra... 50/34 compact with 12-25 cassette 10 speed.

I bought the Park tools... chainwhip, wrench, and Shimano specific guide pin tool for cassette.

Just looking at getting another 12-25 cassette same Shimano Ultergra. And the wheel set was bought with the Shimano compatible hub.

Sounds like what I am looking at, I'm good to go.

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Originally Posted by Miranda

I wouldn't mind investing in a torque measuring wrench... but wasn't sure what is best to buy:confused:... sounds like you can adapt them also?

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How about this?

http://www.craftsman.com/shc/s/p_101...4&blockType=L4

It'll last forever as long as you treat it as a precision measuring tool and not use it for general wrenching. It'll never go out of calibration because it depends upon the simple principal of bending the handle.

A 3/8 socket of the right size for your cassette tool is all you need to "adapt it".

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Originally Posted by Miranda

Just looking at getting another 12-25 cassette same Shimano Ultergra.

Sounds like what I am looking at, I'm good to go.

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Shimano cassettes come with a lockring.

Thanks for answering to the original Q & bout the torque wrench. I saw a couple options Park Tools offers, but just wasn't sure what was what. Looks good... I'm pretty good at taking care of my gear stuff, so good to know it would last. Appreciate the input:).

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Originally Posted by laura*

How about this?

http://www.craftsman.com/shc/s/p_101...4&blockType=L4

It'll last forever as long as you treat it as a precision measuring tool and not use it for general wrenching. It'll never go out of calibration because it depends upon the simple principal of bending the handle.

A 3/8 socket of the right size for your cassette tool is all you need to "adapt it".



Shimano cassettes come with a lockring.

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Torque wrenches (like all other measuring instruments) are most accurate in the middle of their range. So you want to look at what fasteners you'll be torquing (cassette lockrings, seatpost clamp, handlebar/stem clamps get the most installation/removal on bicis), find the torque specs for each of them, and get a wrench with the appropriate range.

The drive and the socket are sized together also (to transmit the torque appropriately), but you can use an adapter within reason. The 4 mm and 5 mm Allen sockets you'll need for the clamps normally take a 1/4" drive, whereas the 1" hex socket for the cassette tool will take a 3/8" drive. (You'll probably see 1" sockets with 1/2" drive for automotive applications, but there's nothing on a bici that needs a 1/2" drive!) You can get a 3/8"-to-1/4" adapter to use the smaller sockets with your 3/8" drive wrench - should be fine for 4mm and 5 mm.

Just checking back in on my thread here... ok, thanks that's good to know. I figured there had to be some range of what you could use with what.

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Originally Posted by OakLeaf

Torque wrenches (like all other measuring instruments) are most accurate in the middle of their range. So you want to look at what fasteners you'll be torquing (cassette lockrings, seatpost clamp, handlebar/stem clamps get the most installation/removal on bicis), find the torque specs for each of them, and get a wrench with the appropriate range.

The drive and the socket are sized together also (to transmit the torque appropriately), but you can use an adapter within reason. The 4 mm and 5 mm Allen sockets you'll need for the clamps normally take a 1/4" drive, whereas the 1" hex socket for the cassette tool will take a 3/8" drive. (You'll probably see 1" sockets with 1/2" drive for automotive applications, but there's nothing on a bici that needs a 1/2" drive!) You can get a 3/8"-to-1/4" adapter to use the smaller sockets with your 3/8" drive wrench - should be fine for 4mm and 5 mm.

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