Tektro Brake Lever question

I've a question about my Tektro brake levers on my LHT. Does anyone know if they are adjustable in order to get a shorter reach? I CAN reach them from the hoods, but only just past my finger tips and my hands feel quite stretched/and a little painful. So far this has just been on the trainer, though I doubt this is just a trainer-weirdness (that would be great if it were).

The levers with my complete LHT is specifically for smaller hands/shorter reaches. I called my LBS and I was told that there is another set of brake levers that would shorten the distance even more, they are going to get back with me.

The levers are Tektro R100A Small Hand Levers.

I've just put the R100a levers on my new fixie - specifically because of the short reach. I think they are excellent - & very very cheap too! The hood shape is similar to Campag. The hoods themselves are quite long so it's possible you might need a shorter stem to get the reach on the whole bike just right.

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Originally Posted by alimey

I've just put the R100a levers on my new fixie - specifically because of the short reach. I think they are excellent - & very very cheap too! The hood shape is similar to Campag. The hoods themselves are quite long so it's possible you might need a shorter stem to get the reach on the whole bike just right.

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Thanks - I will bring this up with my fitter. The stem/something does seem quite long to me. I will see how it handles in the park tomorrow - the trainer is fine but that doesn't really mimic how the bike will handle/feel on pavement :D I WISH that I had time to ride him today...how can I name him before a real ride!

From looking at your pics it seems like they might have been mounted a little high - that would make it nearly impossible to reach from the drops. I know it took me ages to get mine where I felt they were "just right" - not too low for riding on the hoods, but low enough to be reachable in the drops.

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Originally Posted by sarahspins

From looking at your pics it seems like they might have been mounted a little high - that would make it nearly impossible to reach from the drops. I know it took me ages to get mine where I felt they were "just right" - not too low for riding on the hoods, but low enough to be reachable in the drops.

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My fitter wants to actually SEE my levers to make sure that they sent the right levers with my build - I told him that they say "R100" underneath the levers - but they do not say R100a (which is what they are supposed to be). That doesn't mean that they are incorrect levers.

Part of me thinks that because I am totally unaccustomed to road bars and the more aggressive position (Stella is a Trek 7.6 FX) that I may be putting far more weight on my wrists than I know and that could be part of the pain.

I can really only get 2 fingers on the brake levers, and only one of those fingers are past the first finger joint. Does that sound correct? Am I thinking something is a problem that isn't?

If I truly do have the most compact levers, then I will likely discuss inline brake levers with him that go on top of the bars. Sheldon Brown's site mentions these, http://www.sheldonbrown.com/harris/b...vers-drop.html. I am referring to the "Cross" or "Interrupter" brake levers found partially down the page.

For now I've decided not to worry about the drops - I suspect that it will be quite some time before I am ready to experiment riding in those... though I will check out the position of the brakes as you have suggested - it would be good to be able to reach the brakes WHENEVER I am ready to try the drops. Right now moving my hands to shift is kind of scary enough :p

The 100's are the compact ones.. the other version would be the R200, and they are much bigger. I don't know what significance the 'a' has in that.. and I don't know that the reach can be adjusted on these. I have pretty small hands (my motocross gloves are xxs, my bike gloves are smalls because they didn't have anything smaller), and on my Mixte (which has the R100's) with my hands in the drops, I can reach the levers with no problem. I can't say however, that I really like braking in that position... I prefer to brak from the hoods or from the top of the bars (w/ my cross levers).

You can have cross brakes put on the bars no problem, which may help your confidence a lot.. I have RL720's on both my Mixte and my new (to me) road bike. They're not very expensive.. I paid around $25 for the ones I put on the mixte including shipping, but odds are good most LBS would have them in stock (I didn't check, but mine is a fair drive away and it's not often I can go without dragging at least one kid with me, so it's easier for me to order stuff). Since the bar tape needs to be partially removed to put the cross levers on on, you could have the positioning of the R100's fine tuned at the same time - and you'll want to make sure the cross levers are in a good position for you as well.

I like the cross levers a lot.. you probably would too :) Some people think they're like "cheating" - sort of the way all the "road" bikes in the 80's had the dual brake levers, but these are different, and work much better... I think I read something somewhere that you actually get better braking power with the cross levers than the aero levers.

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Originally Posted by sarahspins

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I like the cross levers a lot.. you probably would too :) Some people think they're like "cheating" - sort of the way all the "road" bikes in the 80's had the dual brake levers, but these are different, and work much better... I think I read something somewhere that you actually get better braking power with the cross levers than the aero levers.

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hmmmm this is good information, thanks!. I had already figured out that the cross levers weren't expensive - I just don't feel overly confident with the main brake levers since I can only get two fingers to touch them... I am going to wait and see what my fitter/LBS recommends, but I won't cry if I wind up with the cross levers.

Looking forward to riding my new bike outside, finally, late this afternoon! Now it is time for bed :o

I have short reach levers and travel agents on my CrossCheck and I love it.


My hands aren't particularly small, but.. in terms of strength, I sometimes get tired playing piano... and my joints have all been performing (mostly) reliable service for over a half century.

I'll put up a pic of the brake set up if you are interested.

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Originally Posted by malkin

I have short reach levers and travel agents on my CrossCheck and I love it.


My hands aren't particularly small, but.. in terms of strength, I sometimes get tired playing piano... and my joints have all been performing (mostly) reliable service for over a half century.

I'll put up a pic of the brake set up if you are interested.

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Yes, that would be great! I DO have a small touch of arthritis in my hands - I am unsure if this is part of the equation or not. I've noticed that after about an hour on my Trek 7.6 my hands start acting up, though nothing like what 2 miles did on my LHT :( There are likely multiple things going on here, including posture.

K.
I'll pass it on to Brewer and he'll probably get pics up for you tomorrow.


I'm not sure if it's arthritis or not for me (who am I kidding? Of course it's arthritis if it isn't something more weird) but the big joint of my thumb is sometimes uncooperative and my wrists would generally prefer to stay in where it's safe, warm, and there's no pressure.

Here is the solution I worked out for Malkin. I wanted to acheive maximum braking power using a short-reach road lever with minimum effort. So I assembled the following components:
1) Cane Creek SCR 5C levers (http://www.canecreek.com/component-o...=levers-scr-5c),
2) Cane Creek Direct Curve 3 Brakes (MTB V-style http://www.canecreek.com/component-o...direct-curve-3),
3) ProblemSolvers TravelAgent (http://www.problemsolversbike.com/pd...avel_agent.pdf).

The levers provide short-reach, the V-brakes provide maximum braking power. In order to get the road levers to work with the MTB brakes, the TravelAgent is required because the V-brakes require a greater pull than can be accomplished with the road levers. A side benefit is that there is a leverage effect that results in less effort required for a LOT of braking power. The trikiest bit of the assembly is installing the TravelAgents. If you aren't experienced, have your LBS do this for you. Really.

Cheers!
Brewer

http://www.sharedocs.net/pics/brake1.jpghttp://www.sharedocs.net/pics/brake2.jpghttp://www.sharedocs.net/pics/brake3.jpg

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Originally Posted by brewer

Here is the solution I worked out for Malkin. I wanted to acheive maximum braking power using a short-reach road lever with minimum effort. So I assembled the following components:

1) Cane Creek SCR 5C levers (http://www.canecreek.com/component-o...=levers-scr-5c),
2) Cane Creek Direct Curve 3 Brakes (MTB V-style http://www.canecreek.com/component-o...direct-curve-3),
3) ProblemSolvers TravelAgent (http://www.problemsolversbike.com/pd...avel_agent.pdf).

The levers provide short-reach, the V-brakes provide maximum braking power. In order to get the road levers to work with the MTB brakes, the TravelAgent is required because the V-brakes require a greater pull than can be accomplished with the road levers. A side benefit is that there is a leverage effect that results in less effort required for a LOT of braking power. The trikiest bit of the assembly is installing the TravelAgents. If you aren't experienced, have your LBS do this for you. Really.

Cheers!
Brewer

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Brewer,

I certainly am not experienced enough right now to do anything other than change an inner tube - so I wouldn't try this. My LHT has cantilever brakes currently. I have been wondering about a different style lever, and possibly bars, should my problem continue. I greatly appreciate this information and if our initial efforts don't solve my problem this just might be the way to go. I will find out if these levers are more compact than the Tekro r100a levers that were supposed to have come with my bike. Thanks for the information!

I don't know if it matters but the tekro's are exactly the same as the Cane Creeks.. they are made in the same factory, with the same parts, the only difference is the branding and the hoods (cane creeks have little embossed lizards all over them, the tekros have more of a fine pebbly texture)... and the tektros cost less :)

Funny thing about the lizards is that I'd been riding with them on the tandem for over a year when I got contacts and could finally see them!

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Originally Posted by sarahspins

I don't know if it matters but the tekro's are exactly the same as the Cane Creeks.. they are made in the same factory, with the same parts, the only difference is the branding and the hoods (cane creeks have little embossed lizards all over them, the tekros have more of a fine pebbly texture)... and the tektros cost less :)

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Thanks for the information - this is helpful!