This will spit out more data than you need: http://sheldonbrown.com/gears/
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I'm looking at two bikes now, both described as straight bar road bikes.
Bike #1: crank 50/39/30, cassette 12-27.
Bike #2: crank 48/36/26, cassette 11-32.
What do you see when you look at these combinations? Is bike #1 geared much higher than #2? I like the lower options on #2, as long as it's not too low. I don't ride for speed, but I occasionally need to keep up with a friend of mine![]()
Otherwise, the bikes are very similar and I need a tie-breaker.
This will spit out more data than you need: http://sheldonbrown.com/gears/
Most days in life don't stand out, But life's about those days that will...
Figure out what gear you are most likely to ride on the flats. If that falls on the middle chainring and in the middle of the cassette, I think you are better off. That way you can shift with only your rear derailleur on mild rolling hills without hitting cross-over gears and shifting your front derailleur constantly (which required an almost-simultaneous shift of the rear derailleur to make a small gearing step).
Oil is good, grease is better.
2007 Peter Mooney w/S&S couplers/Terry Butterfly
1993 Bridgestone MB-3/Avocet O2 Air 40W
1980 Columbus Frame with 1970 Campy parts
1954 Raleigh 3-speed/Brooks B72
- Gray 2010 carbon WSD road bike, Rivet Independence saddle
- Red hardtail 26" aluminum mountain bike, Bontrager Evoke WSD saddle
- Royal blue 2018 aluminum gravel bike, Rivet Pearl saddle
Gone but not forgotten:
- Silver 2003 aluminum road bike
- Two awesome worn out Juliana saddles