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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    Dayton, OH
    Posts
    68

    Jett, Lithia, Ruby Comparison?

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    I am pretty sure I am in need of a more T-shaped saddle than the pear shapes I have been trying out. I get sore toward the inside of my sit bones. I measured a few different ways and keep coming up right around 127mm center-to-center. (More than the pear shape, could it be that I'm just going too wide on saddles? Yesterday I picked up a Selle Italia Diva that is 152mm wide. Still feeling the inside soreness after just a mile on this one.)

    I want to try a T-shaped saddle, but can't really find a place that compares the Specialized Jett, Lithia, and Ruby. I'm *guessing* it's mostly a padding difference? I'm going to stop by my local dealer on my way in to work, so maybe I can lay hands on one, hopefully two, but I won't hold my breath.

    Anyone know off the top of their head about these saddles?

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    Uncanny Valley
    Posts
    14,501
    I've ridden a Jett and a Lithia, never a Ruby. The main difference is the padding. But I *did* sit differently on the two saddles, just because of the level of padding. So when I switched from the Lithia to the Jett, I had to make some minor fit tweaks.

    Neither one was T-shaped enough for me in the 155 mm width, in a road position. The Jett is great in an upright position on my hybrid. I'm happy on my SI Turbomatic now.
    Speed comes from what you put behind you. - Judi Ketteler

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Posts
    238
    I just bought a Lithia Gel today, mainly for the width (168) and just put it on my road bike. I only took a quick spin around the block, but it felt ok so far. I am switching from a Terry Butterfly, which, after riding it for 2 years, i think is too narrow. The Lithia is quite padded, but so is the Terry Bfly, which is why I decided to try this one before the Oura (which is what the sales guy recommended).

    I've tried the Jett and did not like, but everyone is different

    Muirenn, do you ride on a 168mm saddle? I thought there was someone on the forum that did, but can't remember if it was you. I was just going to ask for suggestions in that wider width. (sorry, don't mean to hijack OP's tread)

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Posts
    238
    I ride in a pretty relaxed position, rarely in the drops. Core strength is pretty weak, and I have not been riding a lot this year.

    I think he showed me the Oura, because there weren't too many 168's in stock. I was really hesitant because it was so different from the Terry. I really went in looking for a Lithia but there weren't any 168's on the main display rack, so i was going to give the Oura a try, but my inner voice was telling me it would not work, lol. I was wandering around the store and found a Lithia 168 in a smaller saddle display rack.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Posts
    238
    Doesn't look like the Ruby's/ Toupes come in 168mm except for the Ruby Pro, which I don't think would be right for me either.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Posts
    238
    Yes, I made a list last night of the possible 168's from Specialized Romin EVO Comp Gel was on there, thought I didn't realize it was the equivelant of the Oura. I don't think he had the Romin in 168 though.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Posts
    238
    And interesting that you mention you have to size up in the Oura/Romin. The 168 Oura looked small to me! But it also appeared kind of domed? I dunno...it just didn't look right to me at all, lol.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    Uncanny Valley
    Posts
    14,501
    Quote Originally Posted by Muirenn View Post
    Turbomatic ... tends to work better for guys.
    Interesting - I didn't know that. I think a lot of the reason it does work for me, besides the pronounced T-shape, is the doming, that makes the cut-out effectively much more generous than it appears in a photo. Maybe it works better for guys and old freakin' ladies, both of whom have a whole lot of loose soft tissue down there.
    Speed comes from what you put behind you. - Judi Ketteler

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    Dayton, OH
    Posts
    68
    Thanks for all the info! Picked up a Toupe Expert, but it was $130!! I feel like I got taken on that one. Will try it out tonight.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    northern Virginia
    Posts
    5,897
    Do you definitely need a saddle with a cutout? I tried a Lithia once and it was very painful, for the reason Muirenn cited. My sit bones were on the edge of the cutout.

    T-shaped saddles without cutouts include the Selle San Marco Aspide Glamour and the Bontrager Affiity WSD. The Aspide Glamour is 155 mm wide and very firm. I found it uncomfortable because I needed more padding. I'm currently using a Bontrager Affinity WSD RXL saddle, which is not perfect but is very good for me. The Affinity comes in three widths and three levels of padding -- R (most padded), RL (mid-level padding) and RXL (least padded but still not as firm as the Aspide Glamour). I tried all three versions and liked the RXL best -- the others had too much padding in the nose for me, which caused some problems with numbness. However I offered both the R and RL to a friend and she preferred the R, so it may not be too padded for some people. Bontrager offers a 30-day comfort guarantee. One note about the RXL - due to the shape of the rails, you may need a different seatpost clamp, but that can be easily obtained from either Bontrager or any LBS that sells their products, and it would also be returnable if you try the saddle and decide you don't like it.

    - Gray 2010 carbon WSD road bike, Rivet Independence saddle
    - Red hardtail 26" aluminum mountain bike, Bontrager Evoke WSD saddle
    - Royal blue 2018 aluminum gravel bike, Rivet Pearl saddle

    Gone but not forgotten:
    - Silver 2003 aluminum road bike
    - Two awesome worn out Juliana saddles

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    Dayton, OH
    Posts
    68
    I don't think I need a cutout, no. I originally thought it would just be better in case I did. I know that's not true for everyone. Years ago I had a Terry Liberator with a cutout and it seemed to be okay, but I guess my body has changed with time. Ha! Thanks for the suggestions!

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Location
    Saskatoon, Sask.
    Posts
    334
    You could very well be going too wide. My sit bones measure 134 and looking at the Specialized chart my perfect saddle for road riding is supposedly 155 for everything apart from an extreme time trial position. I tried a 155 Ruby and had the same problem you had.
    However, I'm now starting to question the sit bones plus 20mm rule as I'm presently riding a saddle that's only 135mm wide and my pelvic bones are directly on it.
    Look at the Steve Hogg site where he discusses SMP saddles. Even if you never plan to try that particular saddle, there are two very good photos of a plastic pelvis sitting on a saddle that explains why sit bones don't actually contact a saddle unless you are bolt upright on a recumbent or pedal-forward style bike.
    http://www.stevehoggbikefitting.com/...ll-about-smps/
    Queen of the sea beasts

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    Uncanny Valley
    Posts
    14,501
    That is something to consider, with the caveat that not everyone can (comfortably) ride on their pubic rami, either. Going narrower certainly gives one more options in terms of a T-shape.

    Even for someone like me who does sit exclusively on the ischial tuberosities in a road position (which is why my soft tissue gets ground to hamburger in a deeper tuck when the rami get closer to the saddle), guidelines aren't commandments. A centimeter on each side to the outside of the outsides, is a necessary margin for tensioned leather saddles, but more of a nuance on monocoque shell saddles. How far are the outsides of your sit bones from the place on them where your weight is typically centered when you're riding straight down the road? How hard do you corner? How domed is the saddle? Do you shift around in the saddle while riding straight down the road?

    Spec' at least used to have a 30 day return policy on saddles purchased from their website. So you could certainly try something narrower and see how it works for you.
    Speed comes from what you put behind you. - Judi Ketteler

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    Dayton, OH
    Posts
    68
    Quote Originally Posted by nuliajuk View Post
    there are two very good photos of a plastic pelvis sitting on a saddle that explains why sit bones don't actually contact a saddle unless you are bolt upright on a recumbent or pedal-forward style bike.
    Thanks for that! Funny you mention it as I actually checked out my plastic skeleton. It's got narrower ITs than I do because it's not full size, but it got the picture in my head of how it all fits together.

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    Dayton, OH
    Posts
    68
    With just a mile around my 'hood, I like the Toupe Expert better than the SI Diva already. The Diva will be returned tomorrow. I'm heading out now for a bike path ride with the Toupe to see how it goes. I did notice with this saddle that I needed to raise my stem a bit. Now I've probably fiddled with too much and have no idea where I'm supposed to be sitting or how far forward. I'll get it all worked out eventually, I'm sure.

 

 

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