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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    Rowland Hts, CA
    Posts
    473

    Lubing derailleurs/shifters/cables

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    I watched the Youtube videos (thank goodness for Youtube and for Team Estrogen to let me know that I should thoroughly clean my road bike every 300 miles). I wiped down the bike and the wheels. I cleaned off the disgusting grease clinging to the jockey wheels, the Crankset, and the cassette, and the bike chain. I didn't even realize that my chain is supposed to be dark silver and not black . I did my best to clean the front and rear derailleurs. I lubed the bike chain after everything was dry.

    My question is....do you all lube your derailleurs, shifters, cables. I watched the Youtube videos where they said to lube the pivots. There seemed to be a lot of pivots. Should I just spray lube all over the front and the rear derailleurs and hope that I lubed the right parts? Same question with the shifters and the cables. Or, should I just bring my bike in for a total drive train cleaning and lubing once a year instead of fussing with not knowing where/how to lube.

    ____________________________________

    2012 Specialized Amira Elite, upgraded carbon handle bars, Jett saddle 143mm switched to 145mm 2012 Selle Italia Max SLR Gel Flow saddle

    2011 Specialized Ariel Sport,suspension post,Serfas Rx Women's Microfiber saddle

  2. #2
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    northern Virginia
    Posts
    5,828
    I clean and lube the chain regularly and clean the bike. I also lube my Speedplay cleats regularly.

    Once a year I pay the LBS to do a full cleaning and tune-up on the bike.

    - Gray Trek Madone 4.7 road bike, mystery crack in top tube repaired by Calfee, Bontrager Affinity RXL saddle
    - Red Trek 6000 mountain bike, Bontrager Evoke WSD saddle

    Gone but not forgotten:
    - Silver Trek 2000 road bike
    - Two awesome and worn out Juliana saddles

  3. #3
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Katy, Texas
    Posts
    1,828
    I clean my wheels and brake pads after every ride because I ride on some pretty crummy roads. I also wipe down my chain and wipe off the jockey wheels after every ride. I lube the chain and grease/oil/lube every 250-300 miles and clean the chainwith chain cleaning solution and relube it, every 500 miles after I clean the bike . As far as lubbing the none chain parts, defintely anywhere metal touches metal should be lubbed this includes where your cables go through the mounts on your bike, and where they enter the adjustment barrel, the center of your jockey wheels (the two cogged small wheels on your derailleur) the pivot point on the brakes and several other points that seem to need it.

    Like NY biker, once a year or whenever I finish a cross country tour, I pay the bike store guys to take the bike aprt, clean it, relulbe and regrease everything and reassemble. Depending on the mileage, I may get a new chain, derailleur cables or brake pads as needed.

    Bebe my Trek 5.2 pilot is 6 years old and has over 50,000 miles on it so I guess my system works. But then I am also a bit compulsive because I ride alone out in the country, no stores, no taxis, often no cell phone coverage, and cannot afford to have something go wrong with the bike. I also do the 7 point check before I ride- every time.
    marni
    Katy, Texas
    Trek Madone 6.5- "Red"
    Trek Pilot 5.2- " Bebe"


    "easily outrun by a chihuahua."

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    Uncanny Valley
    Posts
    14,645
    Derailleurs yes. Just a drop of lightweight lube at every pivot whenever you clean them (yes there are a lot). Then shift up and down through the gears several times to work the lube into the moving parts, and wipe dry with a clean shop towel.

    Cables maybe. If they have a teflon sleeve or coating, then no. If not, then ONLY in the housings. Usually only the chainstay housing needs any at all. Again, only a drop or two, shift several times, wipe dry.

    Brifters NO. You don't want to gum up the works. Bar end or other lever shifters should get disassembled and cleaned and lubed with a very thin coating of white grease every year or two. Grip shifters, I'm not sure....

    HTH.
    Speed comes from what you put behind you. - Judi Ketteler

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Location
    Oslo, Norway
    Posts
    4,083
    Basically you want lube on the inside wherever there are moving parts, but you don't want lube anywhere else where it will attract dirt and sand, especially on the outside of the chain.
    Winter riding is much less about badassery and much more about bundle-uppery. - malkin

    1995 Kona Cinder Cone commuterFrankenbike/Selle Italia SLR Lady Gel Flow
    2008 white Nakamura Summit Custom mtb/Terry Falcon X
    2000 Schwinn Fastback Comp road bike/Specialized Jett

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Location
    Indianapolis, Indiana
    Posts
    10,952
    I clean and lube my chain regularly, and also have my LBS do a tune-up and thorough cleaning at least once a year - if I can break 3000 miles in a year I will have them do it when that happens. I am a bit unclear myself about lubing pivot points.

    I check my tires and brakes carefully at every ride - I typically ride by myself and don't want to get stranded in the country with no cell phone service. I use Rock and Roll lube which does require more frequent application than some, but I like it.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    Uncanny Valley
    Posts
    14,645
    Also, a little off topic, but cleaning time is a good time to check the bottom bracket cable guide.

    I've found they're only good for about 5-6,000 miles (might be better if I were more diligent about cleaning "down there" ).

    Just a little visual inspection to make sure (1) it's clean, (2) the groove isn't so deep that the cable is hanging up in it, and (3) there's still enough of the guide left that the cable isn't contacting the frame.
    Speed comes from what you put behind you. - Judi Ketteler

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    PGH, PA
    Posts
    70
    Regarding the pivot points and lubrication, I just came across this short video on YouTube (TerryBikes) that might be useful. I'd like to find one of those needle-nosed bottle droppers if anyone knows where to get one. (That's probably not what they are called, which is why I can't find it!)

    Here's the video: http://youtu.be/N9i0WtvUjD8

    Also, lemon Pledge for polishing the frame? I wouldn't have guessed that.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Posts
    2,738
    Quote Originally Posted by OakLeaf View Post
    Also, a little off topic, but cleaning time is a good time to check the bottom bracket cable guide.

    I've found they're only good for about 5-6,000 miles (might be better if I were more diligent about cleaning "down there" ).

    Just a little visual inspection to make sure (1) it's clean, (2) the groove isn't so deep that the cable is hanging up in it, and (3) there's still enough of the guide left that the cable isn't contacting the frame.
    +1! We've seen a handful of bikes at the shop (including one of my own) where the front shifting went to he!! in a handbasket because the cable was bogging down in the groove of the cable guide.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    Rowland Hts, CA
    Posts
    473
    Quote Originally Posted by breeze View Post
    Regarding the pivot points and lubrication, I just came across this short video on YouTube (TerryBikes) that might be useful. I'd like to find one of those needle-nosed bottle droppers if anyone knows where to get one. (That's probably not what they are called, which is why I can't find it!)

    Here's the video: http://youtu.be/N9i0WtvUjD8

    Also, lemon Pledge for polishing the frame? I wouldn't have guessed that.
    Thanks for the video. That did help some, but I could swear that there are more pivots than that on some other YouTube videos. My oil dropper came with a flimsy straw. I guess I'll ask my LBS about that pointy needle dropper which does seem better than the straw.

    Also, thanks to everyone for telling me about the bottom cable bracket. I didn't even know that part existed on my bike.

    I also read on another Team Estrogen jockey wheel cleaning thread, that people used the leftover degreaser from the Parks Chain Cleaning tool to scrub the jockey wheels. Good advice, because all I did was just dump the leftovers.
    ____________________________________

    2012 Specialized Amira Elite, upgraded carbon handle bars, Jett saddle 143mm switched to 145mm 2012 Selle Italia Max SLR Gel Flow saddle

    2011 Specialized Ariel Sport,suspension post,Serfas Rx Women's Microfiber saddle

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    Taylor, MI
    Posts
    220

    Lube Pen

    This might be what you are looking for:

    http://www.amazon.com/ProGold-11017-...9520004&sr=1-3

    enjoy,
    P2
    2011 Trek Madone 5.2 WSD - Ruby 155
    2009 Trek 2.1 WSD - Ruby 155
    2013 Giant TCX W - Jett 155
    2010 Specialized Amira Comp - Romin 155

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Location
    Indianapolis, Indiana
    Posts
    10,952
    Quote Originally Posted by pinsonp2 View Post
    This might be what you are looking for:

    http://www.amazon.com/ProGold-11017-...9520004&sr=1-3

    enjoy,
    P2
    I've used this, it is nice.

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    PGH, PA
    Posts
    70
    Quote Originally Posted by pinsonp2 View Post
    This might be what you are looking for:

    http://www.amazon.com/ProGold-11017-...9520004&sr=1-3
    Awesome! I should have known that someone here would be able to find it-- and fast! Thanks.

 

 

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