3 spec lists - Trek 6000 WSD, Specialized Rockhopper, or Trek 4500 Special Edition?

[Chicago rider]

Which of these 3 bikes have the best components? They are all within my price range and I have narrowed several mountain bikes at my LBS down to these as they fit pretty well.

How good are the forks on each?? I've used the shifters on bike #3 for years and like them quite a bit. Are they very different from the shifters on these other bikes??


BIKE #1 price: $719

Frame:

WSD Alpha Black Aluminum w/semi-integrated head tube, twin taper down tube w/integrated gusset, formed top tube, wishbone seatstay, forged dropouts w/rack and fender mounts, replaceable derailleur hanger

Front Suspension

RockShox Dart 3 w/coil spring, rebound, TurnKey lockout, alloy steerer, WSD Rider Right spring weight, 100mm


Wheels

Shimano M475-L hubs; Bontrager Ranger rims
Tires Bontrager Jones XR, 26x2.25" front, 26x2.20" rear

Drivetrain

Shifters SRAM X.5 trigger
Front Derailleur SRAM X.5
Rear Derailleur SRAM X.5
Crank Shimano M442 44/32/22
Cassette SRAM PG950 11-34, 9 speed
Pedals Wellgo alloy platform

Components

Saddle Bontrager SSR WSD
Seat Post Bontrager SSR, 31.6mm, 20mm offset
Handlebars Bontrager Approved Riser, 25mm rise
Stem Bontrager SSR, 10 degree
Headset VP-A42E, 1-1/8" semi-integrated, sealed
Brakeset Avid BB-5, mechanical disc w/Pro Max levers

BIKE #2 Price: $679

FRAME Specialized M4 fully manipulated alloy frame, fully butted, externally relieved HT, forged dropouts w/ replaceable derailleur hanger, disc only

FORK SR Suntour SF11-XCR-DS-26-LO-SP, mag. lower, 30mm steel stanchions, hyd. damping w/ lock out and custom tuned spike valve

HEADSET 1-1/8" threadless, loose ball
STEM 3D forged alloy, 7 degree rise, 31.8mm clamp

HANDLEBARS Butted alloy riserbar, 25mm rise, 8 degree back sweep, 6 degree up

GRIPS Specialized Enduro, dual compound Kraton, no flange, 131mm

FRONT BRAKE Avid BB5, mechanical disc, 160mm G2 Clean Sweep rotor

REAR BRAKE Avid BB5, mechanical disc, 160mm G2 Clean Sweep rotor

BRAKE LEVERS Alloy, linear pull

FRONT DERAILLEUR Shimano Altus, 34.9mm clamp

REAR DERAILLEUR SRAM X.5 8sp Mid cage

SHIFT LEVERS SRAM X.4 trigger

CASSETTE SRAM PG-830, 8-speed, 11-32t

CHAIN KMC X8 w/ reusable Missing Link

CRANKSET SR SunTour, Octalink spline

CHAINRINGS 42S x 32S x 22S replaceable

BOTTOM BRACKET Shimano BB-ES25, Octalink spline, cartridge bearing, 68mm x 118mm

PEDALS Plastic platform, toe-clip compatible, reflectors, 9/16"

RIMS Alex RHD 26", alloy double wall, pinned w/eyelets

FRONT HUB Forged alloy, hi/low flange, double sealed, ground race, machined disc mount and flange, QR, 28h

REAR HUB Forged alloy, mid flange, double sealed, ground race, machined disc mount and flanges, cassette, QR, 32h

SPOKES 2mm (14g) stainless

FRONT TIRE Specialized The Captain Sport, 26x2.0", 60TPI, wire bead

REAR TIRE Specialized The Captain Sport, 26x2.0", 60TPI, wire bead

INNER TUBES Presta valve

SADDLE Specialized Rockhopper XC, Body Geometry, 143mm width, front and rear bumpers

SEATPOST Alloy two bolt, 12.5mm offset, micro adjust, 30.9mm

SEAT BINDER Alloy QR, nylon washer



BIKE #3 Price: $591

Frame

Alpha Black Aluminum w/semi-integrated head tube, formed down tube w/integrated gusset, formed top tube, monostay seatstay, forged dropouts w/rack and fender mounts, replaceable derailleur hanger

Front Suspension

Suntour SF10-XCM-PM-HLO w/coil spring, preload, lockout, 100mm

Wheels

Wheels Shimano M475-L hubs; Bontrager Ranger rims
Tires Bontrager Jones XR, 26x2.25" front, 26x2.20" rear

Drivetrain

Shifters Shimano M410, 8 speed
Front Derailleur Shimano M310
Rear Derailleur Shimano Deore
Crank Shimano M361 42/32/22
Cassette SRAM PG830 11-32, 8 speed
Pedals Wellgo alloy platform

Components

Saddle Bontrager Race Lux
Seat Post Bontrager SSR, 31.6mm, 20mm offset
Handlebars Bontrager SSR, 25mm rise, 6 degree bend
Stem Bontrager SSR, 10 degree
Headset VP-A42E, 1-1/8" semi-integrated, sealed
Brakeset Avid BB-5, mechanical disc w/Pro Max levers

[Chicago rider]

After looking over these specs I see that one has 9 gears and the others have 8. I'm guessing that most people would choose 9? Thoughts?

Thanks for your patience, I'm rather new at mountain biking. I'm more into BMX bikes and commuter bikes.

[indysteel]

Have you done a test ride on any of the bikes? Forget the specs, how do they fit?

[Chicago rider]

Hi and thanks for replying!

I couldn't ride them far or long per the LBS, but yes I did ride them and they all fit well. That is my dilemma.

[indysteel]

I'm a little surprised both the Specialized and Treks fit. Granted, I just briefly looked at their respective geometries, but the TT of the Specialized looks to be a bit longer than the comparably sized Treks. When you did your test ride, did you move around the bike like you might expect to on the trail?

[laura*]

I'm finding it a bit hard to compare them one to one. About all I can come up with is that bikes #1 and #2 are about equivalent, and that bike #3 is a step down in quality.

I'd be a bit leery of the SR Suntour components. They don't have a lineage back to the time when those names were sought after.

[Chicago rider]

I'm a little surprised both the Specialized and Treks fit. Granted, I just briefly looked at their respective geometries, but the TT of the Specialized looks to be a bit longer than the comparably sized Treks. When you did your test ride, did you move around the bike like you might expect to on the trail?

I did move around the seat on it's rails more so for the 4500 and Rockhopper (this one I moved seat all the way to front) so to reach the handlebars more comfortably. I tried the 14.5 size Trek 6000, the 13" Trek 4500, and the 13" Rockhopper. It seemed to me that the 6000 had a shorter top tube which makes sense from what I read about this WSD model.

I guess with the fits, I paid more attention to the stand over clearance. I made the mistake of buying a 16" Trek 4500 a few years back and was always scared to death when on technical trails fearing I wouldn't have enough room to step off w/a lean. My old Trek 4500 is now going to my taller partner as it actually fits her. I really hope she starts to dig mountain biking as much as she loves city and path riding.

[Chicago rider]

I'm finding it a bit hard to compare them one to one. About all I can come up with is that bikes #1 and #2 are about equivalent, and that bike #3 is a step down in quality.

I'd be a bit leery of the SR Suntour components. They don't have a lineage back to the time when those names were sought after.

Yeah, I hadn't heard of Suntour, but didn't know if that was just my ignorance. I've also read mixed reviews about the Rockshox Dart 3 but it's seeming between the two I should probably go for Rockshox.

The SRAM shifters vs the shimano....well I think the SRAM is all thumb use and no trigger finger. Is this a large learning curve do you think?

[laura*]

Yeah, I hadn't heard of Suntour, but didn't know if that was just my ignorance.

Suntour was a big name back in the 1980's. At the time, Shimano was an "also ran". Suntour didn't keep up with technology and went bust. Essentially, the small bike specific company was buried by the big company that made bike parts as a sideline.

Sakae Ringyo (aka SR) is another Japanese company that was popular back in the day.

The remnants of these companies have been resurrected as a brand name for what today are probably Taiwanese parts.

The SRAM shifters vs the shimano....well I think the SRAM is all thumb use and no trigger finger. Is this a large learning curve do you think?

I've ridden Shimano Rapidfire+ for years. But my newish commute bike has SRAM triggers. I feared the adaptation process but it really wasn't bad. I did however have to rotate the shifters to avoid accidental shifts.

[indysteel]

I did move around the seat on it's rails more so for the 4500 and Rockhopper (this one I moved seat all the way to front) so to reach the handlebars more comfortably. I tried the 14.5 size Trek 6000, the 13" Trek 4500, and the 13" Rockhopper. It seemed to me that the 6000 had a shorter top tube which makes sense from what I read about this WSD model.

I guess with the fits, I paid more attention to the stand over clearance. I made the mistake of buying a 16" Trek 4500 a few years back and was always scared to death when on technical trails fearing I wouldn't have enough room to step off w/a lean. My old Trek 4500 is now going to my taller partner as it actually fits her. I really hope she starts to dig mountain biking as much as she loves city and path riding.

I'm not sure you understoof my question. I was wondering if, during your test ride, did you get out of the saddle and move around the bike like you will expect do on the trail. You don't spend as much time sitting on the saddle like you do on a road bike.

But that said, you made a few interesting statements that bear on fit. I do not recommend moving a saddle forward or back to get the right reach. Rather, a saddle should be placed to accommodate your knees as they relate to the pedals. Use a stem or different bars to change reach. I would suggest comparing the geometries of these three bikes in the sized you tried. Trek WSDs are not typically all that different from their unisex counterparts. Also, you might look at Specialized Myka's line if you're on the short side.

[Chicago rider]

I'm not sure you understoof my question. I was wondering if, during your test ride, did you get out of the saddle and move around the bike like you will expect do on the trail. You don't spend as much time sitting on the saddle like you do on a road bike.

But that said, you made a few interesting statements that bear on fit. I do not recommend moving a saddle forward or back to get the right reach. Rather, a saddle should be placed to accommodate your knees as they relate to the pedals. Use a stem or different bars to change reach. I would suggest comparing the geometries of these three bikes in the sized you tried. Trek WSDs are not typically all that different from their unisex counterparts. Also, you might look at Specialized Myka's line if you're on the short side.

Thanks for the tips indysteel! I went back to the store and tried different positions and made sure the seat was centered on the rails per your suggestion. The Specialized was no longer in my comfy reach. The Myka seemed a bit cramped for me and I just didn't like the "girliness" look of it. Probably because of the curvature of one of the frame bars. The 4500 and 6000 were the best fits but I felt a tiny bit cramped on the 13" 4500. I decided to go with the 6000 even though I had a bit less stand over room than the 4500. I took her for a test ride this evening and she rides like a dream. So happy! Now to get her on the trails this weekend. I worry a bit about only having an inch of stand over room but I have 7 days to return it for money back or an exchange.

[Chicago rider]

Suntour was a big name back in the 1980's. At the time, Shimano was an "also ran". Suntour didn't keep up with technology and went bust. Essentially, the small bike specific company was buried by the big company that made bike parts as a sideline.

Sakae Ringyo (aka SR) is another Japanese company that was popular back in the day.

The remnants of these companies have been resurrected as a brand name for what today are probably Taiwanese parts.



I've ridden Shimano Rapidfire+ for years. But my newish commute bike has SRAM triggers. I feared the adaptation process but it really wasn't bad. I did however have to rotate the shifters to avoid accidental shifts.

Thanks for the heads up re: SR. Also I was able to really test out the triggers and I don't think it will be too difficult to switch to these SRAM X.5s. I guess the toughest thing will be going back and forth between my Shimano Alvio's on my hybrid and then to this new bike. With time I'm sure I'll get the hang of it though.

[indysteel]

Congrats on your new bike!

I do want to clarify one point: I don't think a saddle should necessarily be centered on the rails, although it's a decent place to start for a test ride. A saddle may be placed fore or aft on the rails depending on where the riders' knees need to be relative to the pedals. I, for one, usually place may saddle way back because I have long femurs relative to my leg length.

[Chicago rider]

Congrats on your new bike!

I do want to clarify one point: I don't think a saddle should necessarily be centered on the rails, although it's a decent place to start for a test ride. A saddle may be placed fore or aft on the rails depending on where the riders' knees need to be relative to the pedals. I, for one, usually place may saddle way back because I have long femurs relative to my leg length.

My knees weren't above the pedals at all really with the Rockhopper. I'm not sure if they would have been with the 4500 but they def are now w/my new bike. Again, thanks for the tips.

From central IN eh? I went to high school in Frankfort and later went to Purdue W. (Lafayette) for my undergrad. Small world.