Shifting problem

[Becky]

It mainly only rubs in the middle chain - they originally had it adjusted so that I could use the tallest gear on the middle chain without rubbing, but now it always rubs once I get higher than the middle gear (if 1=lowest, it now rubs on gears 6-9 on the back;s sometimes even on 5). This doesn't leave many effective non-rubbing gears for me on the middle chain...

Without re-reading everything previously posted, this sounds like a tension issue to me (assuming that FD body is in the right position to begin). Trimming can sometimes be done on the middle chainring, depending on the shifters, and sometimes not. Setting up a triple to use all cogs while in the middle ring and without trimming is tricky business.

[OakLeaf]

Okay. Try just tightening the cable and I bet that'll solve your problem.

You ought to have a barrel adjuster on the cable housing. Likely it's integrated into your shifter perch. Possibly it splits the housing near the shifter.

Shift into your small chainring to take the maximum tension off the cable. Feel the cable near the FD, is there a little slack in it? There shouldn't be. It should be taut but not super tight. Turn the barrel adjuster in the direction that lengthens the housing until all slack is removed from the cable and any further tightening moves the derailleur. If it isn't obvious which direction that is, turn the adjuster in each direction with a finger on the cable to find which way makes it tighter and which way makes it looser.

Once you've taken all the slack out of the cable, stay in your small chainring, but trim it one click to the up-side, and shift to your small cassette cog. Cross-chaining - you wouldn't do this on the road, but to tweak the derailleur adjustment you need to. Is it rubbing? If so, continue to turn the adjuster until it no longer rubs.

Now leave your RD in the highest gear, shift up into your big chainring, trim it so it's in its farthest outside position, and make sure the FD isn't rubbing there. If it is, tighten the cable a little bit more. (The cable will already be very tight here. Since you have finger/hand strength issues, you may need to shift the FD back down to the small chainring to be able to turn the adjuster. If that's the case, just turn it about half a turn, shift back up to the big ring and see if that took care of it.)

Go up and down through the gears both front and back to check the adjustment in all positions. If all seems good, you're done.

[Catrin]

Cool! I will try tonight - or tomorrow night if I get home too late tonight (alarm goes off at 4am).

Thanks - and will report back here when I've done this.

[Catrin]

Oakleaf -

I followed your directions and noted a good amount of slack in the cable on the FD side of the bike. The OTHER side was even looser but I left it alone. When I had removed the noise in the first step I cross-chained it in the granny gear and did not notice any noise.

Then I shifted into the big gear and found that the cable was looser and rubbing the FD so am continuing to tighten it. The other cable is now more taut than the one on the DR side and I cannot seem to get the cable tighter than it is. Indeed, even with a lot of tightening it does not seem to be significantly tighter - though the cable on the other side is. Does that make sense?

I will have the guys at my LBS check it Friday when I pick up my new saddle

[OakLeaf]

Um.

What's the second cable?

The one I was talking about was the one in the pictures on this page.

It's possible your high limit screw is too close, keeping your FD from moving as far from the frame as it needs to when you're in the big ring, if tightening the cable isn't having any effect on that end. I wouldn't have expected the LBS to get that wrong, but it's possible. The page I linked to also has instructions for setting the limiter screws. It's also possible that you're at the limit of your barrel adjuster and you're just turning the loose end inside the housing, in which case the cable will need to be re-positioned in the clamp (again - which would be strange).

Anyway, I think you made progress? and learned something about your bike? and it isn't worse so you can still ride to the LBS? if so, good.

[Catrin]

Um.

What's the second cable?

The one I was talking about was the one in the pictures on this page.

It's possible your high limit screw is too close, keeping your FD from moving as far from the frame as it needs to when you're in the big ring, if tightening the cable isn't having any effect on that end. I wouldn't have expected the LBS to get that wrong, but it's possible. The page I linked to also has instructions for setting the limiter screws. It's also possible that you're at the limit of your barrel adjuster and you're just turning the loose end inside the housing, in which case the cable will need to be re-positioned in the clamp (again - which would be strange).

Anyway, I think you made progress? and learned something about your bike? and it isn't worse so you can still ride to the LBS? if so, good.

Ummm, I thought you were talking about the barrel adjuster on the cable - I have seen them adjust it when dealing with my FD. There are two of these on either side....I only adjusted one of them.

I hope I didn't mess anything up I do tend to forge ahead sometimes - but I am certainly learning more about my bike I think it is better in the granny gear - though not in the middle...my fingers may not be strong enough.

[OakLeaf]

That looks like the correct adjuster (as long as it's the cable that goes to the FD), but I still don't know which other cable you're talking about?

[Catrin]

Um.

What's the second cable?

The one I was talking about was the one in the pictures on this page.

It's possible your high limit screw is too close, keeping your FD from moving as far from the frame as it needs to when you're in the big ring, if tightening the cable isn't having any effect on that end. I wouldn't have expected the LBS to get that wrong, but it's possible. The page I linked to also has instructions for setting the limiter screws. It's also possible that you're at the limit of your barrel adjuster and you're just turning the loose end inside the housing, in which case the cable will need to be re-positioned in the clamp (again - which would be strange).

Anyway, I think you made progress? and learned something about your bike? and it isn't worse so you can still ride to the LBS? if so, good.

That looks like the correct adjuster (as long as it's the cable that goes to the FD), but I still don't know which other cable you're talking about?

I could not seem to get a good shot of both - but there are two barrel adjusters on both sides of the down tube. I assume the other one goes to the RD? It isn't the brakes - that runs under the TT, so the second one MUST go to the RD.

I turned it upside down and that is indeed the case, one cable (and adjuster) per derailleur. I adjusted the wrong one Let's try this again

[Catrin]

I can't move the barrel adjuster for the FD and while it isn't rubbing in the big or small rings, it certainly still is in the middle. I will have my LBS check it out, but surely I should be able to use at least gears 6-8 in the back when I am in the middle. Until the most recent adjustment they had it set so I could actually use all 9 in the middle if I wanted to do so...

You know, this arthritis thing is a pain - though not literally unless my hands get in the wrong position (like with road bars) - it is my grip strength that is most affected and the intense strength training I've done this year has made no changes in that dept.

Would love to ride tonight to see if it is better - but at 95 degrees I suspect the only bike I will be riding tonight is the spinning bike at my club after my training appointment.

[OakLeaf]

Bummer. Well, hopefully the LBS can show you what was off.

Hijack: Have you been working specifically on grip strength? Most common group fitness classes and weight machines give very little attention to the hands and forearms. I know it's tough with arthritis, but you seem to have been working hard and expecting results that aren't coming. Ask your trainer for some hand exercises if you're not doing them already.

[Catrin]

Bummer. Well, hopefully the LBS can show you what was off.

Hijack: Have you been working specifically on grip strength? Most common group fitness classes and weight machines give very little attention to the hands and forearms. I know it's tough with arthritis, but you seem to have been working hard and expecting results that aren't coming. Ask your trainer for some hand exercises if you're not doing them already.

The only group class I do is spinning, generally I don't care for group classes. I am planning on asking him about that today. Frankly I haven't been all that concerned with it as I thought that all of the work I've been doing would have also helped that - but now I am seeing evidence that isn't the case. There have been great improvements in both upper and lower body, but my grip is the same as it was a year ago when I started.

My LBS has pretty good wrenches and they are very helpful. They also don't charge for simple adjustments which is nice. It isn't like they don't make a lot of money from me in other ways

[Catrin]

I apparently fixed it last night without realizing it It is too hot to ride tonight so decided to clean my chain when I came in, and while working I TRIED to get the chain to rub - but it refused to do so

I am still having them look at it when I pick up my saddle, but I seem to have done more than I knew - Thanks!

[Catrin]

Took my bike to the LBS to get his new saddle - and asked them to adjust my shifters. Apparently the RD was not hanging right, he said part of my problem was the chain was actually hitting the RD occasionally.

In his opinion - and I am sure he is right - because I don't trim properly when needed in shifting that it got things out of adjustment - but the off-center RD wasn't helping. I did not really understand this and he took some time to explain trimming with the trigger shifters when needed (any time I hear the chain).

If all bikes are like this, then I start to understand why my Trek shifted so badly the last time I rode her - this is the first in-depth discussion I've had on this and why it matters.

I like my LBS very much - they don't treat me like an idiot and do very good work.

[OakLeaf]

Glad you got it sorted - and that you've got such a great LBS.

[Catrin]

Glad you got it sorted - and that you've got such a great LBS.

Who would have thought about this 'trimming' thing on her own....guess that is one of the things that happens when you, basically, teach yourself how to ride and really don't know anyone who did before joining TE and hiring a personal trainer

Does this apply to all bikes, or is it related to having trigger shifters?