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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
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    Tucson, AZ
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    Clipless pedals and knee issues

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    I'm looking into buying clipless pedals and shoes (since the Keens sandals aren't quite going to cut it in a week or two...) and have a couple of questions. Since I didn't want to threadjack the other thread, I'm asking them here.

    1)What's beginner-friendly? I recall someone saying that the Look system is harder to use initially, although I could be misremembering things. The bike gets used for longish (or, working up to that!) road rides, but it's quite possible that she'll become the commuter.

    2)What's beginner-friendly and knee-friendly? I have loose knee ligaments, so they're quite prone to twisting and other not-fun things that potentially causes damage.

    3)Shoes? I know it depends on what pedals I buy, but if someone really likes or really hates certain shoes, I'd like to hear about it.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
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    2,841
    I guess first question would be - do you want road shoes or mountain bike shoes? Do you want to be able to walk in your shoes or not? I'd say with knee problems, you probably want to get pedals with a lot of float (look into the speedplays).

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
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    Tucson, AZ
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    Quote Originally Posted by Catriona View Post
    I guess first question would be - do you want road shoes or mountain bike shoes? Do you want to be able to walk in your shoes or not? I'd say with knee problems, you probably want to get pedals with a lot of float (look into the speedplays).
    I'd like to be able to walk in the shoes. It's not an absolute requirement, but I'd feel more comfortable if something were to go wrong.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
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    2,841
    I use speedplay frogs, you use them on mountain bike shoes, so you will be able to walk on the shoes. On mountain bike shoes, the cleat is recessed up into the shoes - so sometimes you hear a clicking sound if the cleat hits the pavement, but you can still walk on them.

    I started off with them because I knew I had knee cap tracking issues, and they have a fair amount of float... they also detach pretty easily, you just kinda turn your heel out. You just sort of turn your heel out slightly and they pop off.

    A lot of people seem to like the crank brothers systems as well.

    I can't say that I've really tried anything else other than spd for a few days - then I went to frogs because they were easier on my knees and haven't had a reason to try otherwise.

    Actually, I've got a set of crank brothers pedals to put on my mountain bike, because I think the frogs detach a little bit too easily for serious mountain biking... but then I'm not doing the latter, so I haven't gotten there yet.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    San Francisco, CA
    Posts
    1,080
    I recommend a mtn bike shoe for all riders if you have any intention of walking in your shoes (including rest stops on rides).

    Too much float can cause just as many biomechanical problems as not enough float (especially with new riders).

    Double-sided pedals are preferable for ease of entry.

    If you anticipate walking in mud or sand, I recommend any of the Crank Brothers pedals (Egg Beaters, Candies, etc) -- they're designed not to get mucked up in mud.



    Lorri

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    Rhode Island
    Posts
    1,365
    I use the Look style pedals and cleats with well-worn Sidi shoes. For long rides at rest stops I do walk in them, but obviously not a heel-to-toe walk. If I had to walk any amount beyond a few hundred feet, I'd take the shoes off.

    I really like them.

    For my mountain bike, I use a basic shimano pedal and a pair of stiffish Nike mb shoes with rubberized tread - I still wouldn't want to walk a mile in those shoes but they do great for pushing the bike through a rock garden or walking up a hill.
    I can do five more miles.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
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    I once ended up walking 7 miles home - can't say I really liked walking that far in mountain bike shoes - but more than I would have in road shoes. And going barefoot probably woulda torn up my feet.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Location
    Washington, DC
    Posts
    1,315
    I like my Looks, though cleat wear is a bit of an issue. Shimano SPD-SL road cleats wear a little slower. The systems are similar, though Look offers more float options (fixed, 4.5%, or 9%) (Shimano's float is something like 6% or fixed). A lot of people like Speedplays b/c they are 2-sided. But the cleats require even more care, and you should use cleat covers if you are going to walk in them at all, especially in the dirt.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Location
    Limbo
    Posts
    8,769
    If you decide to go Crank Bros. I've got a brand new still shrink wrapped pair of Smarties for $25 shipping included
    2008 Trek FX 7.2/Terry Cite X
    2009 Jamis Aurora/Brooks B-68
    2010 Trek FX 7.6 WSD/stock bontrager

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Posts
    1,708
    You might find one thing works ok to start with, but not for the long haul...

    To start with, I had mtb shoes from spin class, Shimano mtb ds pedals, and multi-release cleat SH56.

    Once my rides got longer, I had problems with numbness in my feet and other issues. The mtb cleat / pedal is a small contact point that will be centered on the ball of your foot. Shoes that flex, due to being made to walk in, will also do so in your pedal stroke. The longer you ride... more flexing is gonig on... less support = not good.

    Now I use a Look Keo Elle (lowest release tension I felt comfy with & widest supportive platform) pedal w/a full carbon soled road shoe, Mavic Xena (stiffest most support shoe I could find that PROPERLY FIT my odd shaped foot). Foot problems = no more for me.

    Walking... how often are you REALLY going to be walking in your "biking" shoes? Yes... "what if THIS, or THAT, etc".... but, statistically, how often does that happen? OK...

    IF you are a city commuter, bike messenger... someone who is on and off the bike multiple times, then "yes"--non-road shoes are a better option. But, it also means your foot is more than likely not getting that solid contact time for steady road riding.

    I saw a bike tourer guy pull up to a lbs once on route, the guy whipped out a flexy half folded pair of flip flops from his bag, changed shoes in a flash, and came on in the shop. Gives your feet a break too from being in the shoe.

    I leave my crocs / flip flops (loosest non-binding airy shoes possible) on in the parking lot on group rides until the very last second. My road shoes sit next to my bici w/the car keys... last piece of gear I whip on is the shoes. Chuck the street shoes in the car... lock up, clip in, and ride off w/the group.

    The only uncippling on the group ride is for stop lights if you don't know how to track stand... or dismount for a quick bathroom break is available (short distance walking)... back on the bike & to solid pedal & foot cotact.

    If you went w/mtb shoes & pedals to start... you could always use them for indoor spin classes later (on bike only 1 hr or so of foot contact), truly mtb as xtrain... sell em, whatever, etc.

    Ultimately you gotta be comfy w/the decision... but some more food for thought.
    Last edited by Miranda; 10-01-2009 at 01:18 AM.

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Location
    Tucson, AZ
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    Here's a question...are there road shoes that don't cost an arm and a leg?

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    Rhode Island
    Posts
    1,365
    E-bay!

    Go try them at your lbs first.
    Sometimes your lbs is having a sale.
    I can do five more miles.

  13. #13
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    San Antonio Heights, CA (Upland)
    Posts
    1,067
    I use Speedplay. They were easy to learn to use, both for me and a couple of my friends that I "sucked" into cycling. A previous post mentioned they have "float". In case you don't know what this means, it means you can move the heel of your foot in and out slightly. You are not locked into one specific place, which could potentially help with your knee issues.

    On a side note, be very careful that your saddle is positioned properly, or you could have further knee problems.
    GO RIDE YOUR BIKE!!!

    2009 Cannondale Super Six High Modulus / SRAM Red / Selle San Marco Mantra

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Posts
    106
    Quote Originally Posted by velogirl View Post
    I recommend a mtn bike shoe for all riders if you have any intention of walking in your shoes (including rest stops on rides).

    Too much float can cause just as many biomechanical problems as not enough float (especially with new riders).
    I agree with Lorri.

    I consider myself still a road-bike newbie. I chose mtb shoes and two-platform pedals (one for SPD and the other for regular shoes). It's much easier to walk with SPD shoes. Sometimes I can wear regular shoes on the flat platform of pedals.


  15. #15
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Location
    Tucson, AZ
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jiffer View Post
    I use Speedplay. They were easy to learn to use, both for me and a couple of my friends that I "sucked" into cycling. A previous post mentioned they have "float". In case you don't know what this means, it means you can move the heel of your foot in and out slightly. You are not locked into one specific place, which could potentially help with your knee issues.

    On a side note, be very careful that your saddle is positioned properly, or you could have further knee problems.
    Thanks. I'll make sure to check that. Is it just me, or are women's shoes hard to find at bike shops? And what they do have are too small for me.

 

 

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