That or she uses old spinergy rev x carbon wheels and corners so fast that the wheels warp.
That or she uses old spinergy rev x carbon wheels and corners so fast that the wheels warp.
I'm dying to know the answer to this question. I hope she comes back.
Karen
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insidious ungovernable cardboard
Maybe it's the spoke protector. Sometimes they rub on the cassette and that could do it. Last week I replaced a broken spoke protector, and when I was done, the cassette didn't turn at all. Had to take the new spoke protector off because that wheel didn't have enough clearance for it. You'd probably get a swishing noise while coasting from a bad spoke protector, and sometimes they break and flop around and make noise all the time.
Oil is good, grease is better.
2007 Peter Mooney w/S&S couplers/Terry Butterfly
1993 Bridgestone MB-3/Avocet O2 Air 40W
1980 Columbus Frame with 1970 Campy parts
1954 Raleigh 3-speed/Brooks B72
The pedals do turn when I spin the tire and the cassette seems stiff but I don't know how loose it should be or how it should spin.
I think this is probably it because it feels fine when I'm pedaling on a flat surface. It's just when I try to coast, I may as well be holding the break.
No my spokes are fine. I say I have flexy wheels.
Thanks TE! You pushed me half way over!
http://pages.teamintraining.org/nca/seagull08/tnguyen
If you hold the rear off the ground (by putting the bike on a stand, for example) and pedal fast, what happens when you stop pedaling? Does the wheel keep on spinning fast for a good amount of time, or is there immediate slowing? Any grinding or rubbing sounds? It could be the freehub is on its way out if not a more obvious problem. You may not notice this much on the road except the wheels won't spin up quite as well as they used to.
Have a bike shop look at your rear wheel. Either the spoke protector (do you have a spoke protector?) is rubbing the cassette or the freehub is not functioning properly or is almost shot. Or maybe there's debris jammed behind the cassette. If you took the rear wheel off your bike and gave the cassette a hard spin, it should keep spinning for at least 30 seconds.
Oil is good, grease is better.
2007 Peter Mooney w/S&S couplers/Terry Butterfly
1993 Bridgestone MB-3/Avocet O2 Air 40W
1980 Columbus Frame with 1970 Campy parts
1954 Raleigh 3-speed/Brooks B72
If removing the plastic protector doesn't help then I'm off to the bike shop. Right now the cassette doesn't even get close to spinning for 30 seconds, it maybe makes its two revolutions before stopping.
If worst comes to worse and it is shot to hell, I would love some good suggestions or favorite brands of what I should replace it with.
If the freehub mechanism is shot, that part is replaceable on good quality hubs.
Oil is good, grease is better.
2007 Peter Mooney w/S&S couplers/Terry Butterfly
1993 Bridgestone MB-3/Avocet O2 Air 40W
1980 Columbus Frame with 1970 Campy parts
1954 Raleigh 3-speed/Brooks B72
The cassette shouldn't keep spinning after you start freewheeling. It's the whole wheel that should keep going for a while after you stop pedaling with the rear wheel off the ground.
If it still comes to a stop quickly, then get your freehub serviced and/or replaced asap.
Worst case scenario is rebuilding or replacing the wheel. Continuing to ride with a dead freehub could cause some damage that will make a new one not mesh properly with the rest of the hub, so get that checked out!
Oh, and I recently found this out the hard way: If you get a freehub overhaul, check to make sure the wheel is dished properly afterwards. This means that the wheel still sits centered between the chainstays. Sometimes, a freehub replacement will mean that the wheel needs to be redished. My LBS didn't catch this, and I came close to trashing my frame with a wheel that would rub a chainstay. I had to pay to get it redished. Then I read on SheldonBrown that it probably needed redished when they worked on the freehub to begin with.
Last edited by aicabsolut; 04-30-2009 at 06:36 PM.