Lisa
My mountain dulcimer network...FOTMD.com...and my mountain dulcimer blog
My personal blog:My blog
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I'm lost.
How does a set of 150mm sit bones not fit on a 210mm saddle?
My 180mm sit bones have a good couple of cms from each edge (measuring the dents I've put in my B67)
"If Americans want to live the American Dream, they should go to Denmark." - Richard Wilkinson
My behind extends beyond the saddle edges all around except at the nose. My sitbones are about 1 1/4' to 1 1/2" from the outermost side edges of the saddle.
First- are you absolutely sure you have the B68 and not the B17??
Second- Are your sitbones actually sitting on the edges, or is it just an illusion because it feels so hard? Sometimes just because our fatty parts extend over the saddle on sides and back, we might "think" our sitbones are right on the edges, but they really are an inch or two in from the edges. Sit on the saddle and put your fingers right under your sitbones, then try to get up without moving your fingers and see where they are on the saddle top. If this is too hard try just marking with one finger at a time.
My hips are 42" around. I'm pear shaped and I've got "child-bearing hips" like Knot has too. Not "fat", but quite wide. I realize that's not an accurate sitbone measurement, but it gives you an idea of my size. The B17 fit me pretty well and was comfy, but I knew that my sit bones on it were almost at the edges side to side. I changed to the B68 which is quite a bit wider and fits me better. Now i do have room for my sitbones to not sit on the frame edge of the saddle. It's a pretty wide saddle.
I guess we're all just trying to figure out your problem considering you are not used to a Brooks type saddle....
Lisa
My mountain dulcimer network...FOTMD.com...and my mountain dulcimer blog
My personal blog:My blog
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It took a while to figure out how to share the detail - it is absolutely the B68.
Process: I set a piece of paper on my office chair, sat for a good long while & built up sit bone impressions. X marks the spot - also circled where the sit bone area left a nice round indent.
The first picture should show the overlay when I compare that to the brooks, and to my other too-narrow saddle, where I'm supported by the A bones, not B.
On the brooks, the center of the sit bones are one fingernail width in from the furthest outside rivet. Is this enough? I tried to draw lines to intersect where the center of the sit bone would hit in the smaller brooks image. Moving front to back on that saddle would e limited to the green line which I measure out to 2" in total -but most of it is hard from the curl of the leather or the pomel underneith.
I know you're not going to like this; but that's about where my sit bones are too.
That's not far off from mine either. On my B17 my sit bones were even closer to the edges- that's why I got the B68. Even so, the B17 was comfortable after the first couple of weeks of heavy riding.
Now on my B68 my sit bones are like where yours are. I think yours will be ok after the saddle -and your behind- are both "broken in".
Have you proof-hide-ed the saddle much yet? That really helps it soften and form to you. Proof hide several times, on both sides (top and underneath).
Lisa
My mountain dulcimer network...FOTMD.com...and my mountain dulcimer blog
My personal blog:My blog
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Yup, that's about where mine are, too. Welcome to the Wide Sit Bone Club! You'll not find many saddles this wide, but yer body will thank you for sittin' on the sit bones rather than on the inferior (that just means "lower") pubic rami.
Last edited by KnottedYet; 06-22-2007 at 07:07 PM.
"If Americans want to live the American Dream, they should go to Denmark." - Richard Wilkinson
Well poo! Guess I'll have to proofhide more and give it more tries.
Does it get less slick?
Yes!
Anyway, you have 6 months to return it to Wallingford! Honest, it takes a couple hundred miles to really know how it's going to feel when it's broken in! (mine felt great from the start, but I was just so ecstatic to have a saddle that FIT, I really didn't care if the leather was still stiff!)
"If Americans want to live the American Dream, they should go to Denmark." - Richard Wilkinson
Better this ride ~ not settled in place yet, so lots of sliding around & felt it in my shoulders & arms as I compensated to keep myself in place. I'll feel better once I can really become one with the saddle and regain the feeling of control in my ride.
thanks again & again ~
Noko
sounds almost like it's tipped too far forward?
Did you level the nose rather than the whole saddle? The back should flare up a bit higher than the nose. When in doubt, level the nose of a Brooks rather than the saddle as a whole.
I slid left-right for a while, but didn't slide fore-aft much. Proofhide does help the sliding.
"If Americans want to live the American Dream, they should go to Denmark." - Richard Wilkinson
Whooo-hooo! Just got back from LBS with my second B67. This one is honey with silver springs for my gold Waterford. My older black one with black springs is now on my black Surly.
Man, I forgot how stiff new Brooks saddles are!
Slathered Proofhide all over it, and it's sitting in the sun right now to bake in all that Proofhide goodness. It's soaking in nicely. Soon I'll rub in some more, sun-bathe it some more, buff it, then.... TA-DA!... put it on Flossie!
(and as of tomorrow I'm supposed to have insurance again, so I can finally go for a ride!)
"If Americans want to live the American Dream, they should go to Denmark." - Richard Wilkinson
Found some info on the Brooks "S" saddles. My friend (just my size fyi) who is going to go to paris to ride in the Paris Brest Paris 1200 kilometer ride has gotten an "s" sized saddle after 2 years with a regular one. The reason is; it's too long. when she stands it gets in her way. Since women have shorter ARMS
the saddle is shorter!!!!
I thought that was rather profound..