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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Posts
    20

    Opinion needed on two bikes

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    I've been riding a hybrid bike since May 2011 and completed a 31 mile sportive. This year I have set myself a goal of a 100mile sportive that is mostly relatively flat but with two long climbs (although not very steep climbs - just long)

    I've been looking a women specific bikes moreso because I prefer the colour schemes (sorry, I just don't want a black, red, blue etc bike) I have found two online that I like the look of and fit my price range. I haven't had the chance to try them yet so I may not like them when I do and if that is the case I am open to trying other bikes that arent as 'pretty'! Also I really think I need a triple as 1) I'm overweight, 2) I'm unfit & 3) I'm completely crap at hills. Also I weigh 230 pounds, so would these bikes be ok. I am about 5ft 6 tall.

    Both bikes are around the same price.

    Fuji Finest 1.0 (2011)

    Frame: A1-SL Compact Aluminium with Power Diamond shape down tube, Double water bottle mounts
    Fork: FC-770 Bonded Carbon Integrated with 1 1/8" Alloy Steerer
    Front Derailleur: Shimano Tiagra, 31.8mm clamp
    Rear Derailleur: Shimano 105, 9-speed
    Number of Gears: 27
    Shifters: Shimano Tiagra STI shifter/brake, 27-speed Flight Deck compatible
    Chainset: FSA Vero Forged Alloy
    Chainrings: 30/39/50 tooth
    Bottom Bracket: Sealed Cartridge Bearing ST
    Cassette: Shimano Tiagra, 12-25T 9sp
    Chain: KMC Z-99, 9sp
    Pedals: Not Supplied
    Front Brake: Tektro R-350 Forged Alloy, dual pivo
    tRear Brake: Tektro R-350 Forged Alloy, dual pivot
    Brake Levers: Shimano Tiagra STI
    Handlebars: Fuji Alloy Anatomical Drops
    Stem: Fuji Adjustable Road
    Headset: V.P. 1 1/8" Standard Semi Cartridge with Convex Alloy spacer
    Grips: Fuji custom cork wrap
    Rims: Alex AKX R1.0 Alloy Clincher Wheelset, 700c
    Front Tyre: Kenda K-152, 700x25c, Wire Bead
    Rear Tyre: Kenda K-152, 700x25c, Wire Bead
    Saddle: Fuji Road Sport Anatomical
    Seatpost: Fuji Comp MicroAdjust Forged Alloy, 27.2mm
    Weight: 10.95kgs / 23.34 lbs approx


    Scott Contessa Speedstar 25 (2012)

    Frame: Contessa Speedster double butted 6061 alloy tubing, road geometry, hydro formed chain stays, integrated head tube
    Fork: Speedster Carbon/Alloy, 1 1/8" alloy steerer
    Front Derailleur: Shimano Tiagra 4603
    Rear Derailleur: Shimano Tiagra 4600
    Number of Gears: 30Shifters: Shimano Tiagra 4600 Dual Control
    Chainset: Shimano Tiagra 4603 Hollowtech II Triple
    Chainrings: 50/39/30 toothBottom Bracket: Shimano 4600
    Cassette: Shimano Tiagra 4600 12-28 tooth 10-speed
    Chain: Shimano Tiagra 4600
    Pedals: None
    Front Brake: Shimano Tiagra Super SLR Dual Pivot
    Rear Brake: Shimano Tiagra Super SLR Dual Pivot
    Brake Levers: Shimano Tiagra 4600 Dual Control
    Handlebars: Scott Road Drop Contessa, Lady anatomic
    Stem: Scott Contessa Road OS
    Headset: Integrated steel cup
    Rims: Alex Race 28 Aero Profile
    Front Hub: Scott Comp, 20H
    Rear Hub: Scott Comp, 24H
    Spokes: CN Standard, black, 2mm
    Front Tyre: Continental Ultra Sport, 700x23
    Rear Tyre: Continental Ultra Sport, 700x23
    Saddle: Scott Contessa Team
    Seatpost: Scott Contessa Alloy
    Weight: 20 pounds (I think)

    Thanks,
    mel.b

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Posts
    152
    I didn't really analyze it very much, but if I had to pick, I would pick the Scott because the components are a little better.

    HOWEVER - it really comes down to fit! Same size bike may have different top tube length or geometry.

    Triple - that's really your decision, but if you get a compact, you won't really lose out a lot of gears if you go triple, and forces you work harder on hills...embrace them! On a normal 20 miler ride for me, I can easily reach 1000' ascent gains, and I'm fine with my double. Hate hills? Get 11-28 cassette for the rear wheel, it'll be a very nice upgrade.

    Good luck!

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Posts
    90
    I can't speak on the brands/quality of the bikes you posted, but I can tell you that the Compact is equivalent to the triple that you're thinking of getting (so I agree with CybrogQueen).

    A friend who is mad about spinning on her bike because she had knee surgery just replaced her triple with a compact because it gives her the same gears she needs to climb.

    This should also open up your options to other bikes.

    The only other thing I would say is go to your LBS and try all the different bikes out there before you make a purchase.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    Tucson, AZ
    Posts
    1,973
    I had the Fuji Finest 2.0- similar frame but with slightly lower components. I rode it about 6000 miles, but when I was ready to replace it, I discovered it didn't fit me nearly as well as the bike I replaced it with. I think it was fine for me as a starter bike, and I rode as far as 72 miles on it. I have no experience with the Scott.

    I'm sure it might be worth trying the steel frame to compare the comfort compared to the alloy, if there is one available.
    2016 Specialized Ruby Comp disc - Ruby Expert ti 155
    2010 Surly Long Haul Trucker - Jett 143

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Location
    MS
    Posts
    220
    FYI, the order of component quality (Shimano) from lowest to highest is:
    Sora
    Tiagra
    105
    Ultegra
    Dura Ace/Di2
    Which means the components on these two bikesare essentially the same.
    Ditto about a compact double giving the same gear range as a triple, it comes down to personal preference. I would test ride as many different bikes as you can. It's really all about fit/comfort on the bike. You'll know it when you find "the one." Good luck and have fun shopping around.
    "Only those who dare to fail greatly can ever achieve greatly" (Robert F. Kennedy)

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    The Great White North
    Posts
    662
    Agree with what the others have said. See if the LBSs will let you do an extended "real" test - do one of your normal rides of at least 20 miles if you can. When I narrowed my most recent search down to 2, both shops let me do this, although one (the one I ended up buying from) was much more accomodating about this than the other (I blame the new young manager who seemed to have little customer service experience ). After my test rides, I knew which bike felt soooo right and which one didn't quite measure up. Good luck and happy riding!

    2001 Trek 7500 FX, converted to a hauler - Serfas
    200? Marin hybrid - Selle San Marco
    2004 Trek 5200 - Avatar
    2011 Trek 6.2 Madone - Ruby

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Posts
    152
    Quote Originally Posted by Muirenn View Post
    What is your budget?

    You really need to test ride your bike. Especially since you are new to road biking and want to do a long ride.

    The difference between mens and womens should be fit. In general, they figure women have longer legs in proportion to their overall height. Not true. Some are evenly proportioned. Some women have shorter legs. Some men have longer.

    Suggestion. Start test-riding Jamis bikes. Both mens and womans. You don't have to buy it if you don't like the color. You get a lot for the money with Jamis.
    x2 for Jamis. I have Jamis Ventura Elite with full Ultegra components (yeah I went all out on my first road bike - still have her). When I was bike shopping, I knew I wanted Ultegra components. I looked at Trek, Specialized (and they didn't have the 44cm that I needed...I like the current Specialized women's bikes than 2008...regardless...), Cannondale, and a couple others. They all were at LEAST $600-$1000 MORE for the bike with the SAME component and frame material. The geometry were all different, but still.

    Something to consider as well.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    Abq, NM
    Posts
    305
    Fit first, Scott second.
    Lookit, grasshopper....

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Posts
    20
    Thanks for the feedbaxk. I have ended up getting the Scott unfortunately where i live most bike shops will not get in a bike (if they stock the brand) unless you are guarenting to buy it...makes it very difficult to test ride a range of bikes Side effect of the recession i guess.

    Now just for the rain to stop so i can go and ride it (winter jacket is on the shopping list!)

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Location
    Melbourne Australia
    Posts
    8

    can you now help me?

    hello all,
    I have just bought myself a beautiful Azzurri Forza Elite.....I love it but last weekend I fell off!! I realised, when I went over the incident that there was a very good reason why I fell off.....my tyre hit my toe clip when I was turning my wheel and over balanced me. My bike frame is a small one, it has been properly fitted for me. Is this something which is common?

  11. #11
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Posts
    195
    Quote Originally Posted by crows View Post
    hello all,
    I have just bought myself a beautiful Azzurri Forza Elite.....I love it but last weekend I fell off!! I realised, when I went over the incident that there was a very good reason why I fell off.....my tyre hit my toe clip when I was turning my wheel and over balanced me. My bike frame is a small one, it has been properly fitted for me. Is this something which is common?
    It's called toe-overlap. It bothers/doesn't bother people to different degrees, Sheldon Brown wrote a little blurb on it.

    http://www.sheldonbrown.com/gloss_ta-o.html

    I don't mind it, if you know it's there and watch out for it you'll probably be okay.

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Posts
    10,889
    Quote Originally Posted by crows View Post
    hello all,
    I have just bought myself a beautiful Azzurri Forza Elite.....I love it but last weekend I fell off!! I realised, when I went over the incident that there was a very good reason why I fell off.....my tyre hit my toe clip when I was turning my wheel and over balanced me. My bike frame is a small one, it has been properly fitted for me. Is this something which is common?
    Antaresia is correct, toe-overlap can be a problem with smaller bikes. I've had that happen once myself, and while I didn't fall (somehow) it taught me to watch out for it. I've found that it is only an issue with tight turns...and I've learned what my limits are. Not all of my bikes have had that problem, currently neither of my bikes appear to be a concern but I still watch out for it.

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
    Location
    Fort Collins, Colorado
    Posts
    257
    IMHO toe overlap sucks! It drives me crazy. I avoid it and ride bikes with toe overlap. SOmetimes your cycling shoes can make a difference. You are probably not clipped in. Meaning your foot is not in a fixed position relative to your pedals and wheels. If you are not clipped in, try moving your foot around on the pedal.

    I do not like toe overlap because of habits I develop on the road bike (with toe overlap) affecting mtn biking handling. It produces a hesitation in pedal/turning and screws me up. YMMV.

    Enjoy your rides.
    S

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    Indianapolis, IN
    Posts
    1,033
    Yeah toe overlap can get ya when u least expect it. I have to watch that when I turn super sharp on my Salsa after putting on a beefy set of fenders. It's not so bad once you know about it. Just a hella surprise when you don't!

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    Florida
    Posts
    97
    I was test riding bikes on Friday and had a toe overlap problem with one. In most instances I wouldn't probably turn the sharp and it be a problem but I still didn't like it. Beats my previous problem of heel hitting my son's child carrier seat. That was very annoying.

 

 

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