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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Location
    Riding my Luna & Rivendell in the Hudson Valley, NY
    Posts
    8,411
    If as you say you have "serious" pain when you run, I would guess that might take a long time (if ever) to eliminate. Running is HARD on the body, and lots of runners have so much pain and chronic injuries that they have to switch to fitness walking permanently. The walking forums are full of injured ex-runners.
    So, in my opinion if you are going to buy any bike you should perhaps concentrate on the road bike rather than a tri bike- you would be more sure to be able to use it for its purpose.
    Lisa
    My mountain dulcimer network...FOTMD.com...and my mountain dulcimer blog
    My personal blog:My blog
    ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    San Antonio, TX
    Posts
    2,024
    Are you sure you have your Front Derailleur adjusted properly.? Serious pain sounds to me like the limit screw is set wrong. The limit screws determine how far the dearilleur moves when you push it. If its not moving far enough, it can be hard to push. When was the last time you changed your cables, or had your LBS do it, that could also be a problem. New bikes are FUN, but maybe a tune up is in order. No matter how fancy shmancy your bike is, if its not tuned it won't perform well. I think of a bike more like a violin than a car, all those strings need constant attention for it to sing.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    Massachusetts
    Posts
    2,556
    Try a new well-greased cable, have the derailleur adjusted for limit screw, vertical height, and horizontal swivel. Make sure the bottom bracket is adjusted properly. Shift to your big ring only from one of the outer rear cogs. If it still shifts like cr@p, you might need a better derailleur or crankset. Alternatively, one way to get faster is to stop shifting so much and force your legs to get stronger and more supple.
    Oil is good, grease is better.

    2007 Peter Mooney w/S&S couplers/Terry Butterfly
    1993 Bridgestone MB-3/Avocet O2 Air 40W
    1980 Columbus Frame with 1970 Campy parts
    1954 Raleigh 3-speed/Brooks B72

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Location
    Dallas, TX
    Posts
    2,716
    Thanks for the replies!

    As far as the derailer needing to be looked at... it has been looked at... and *fixed* many, many, many times. I seriously use to go weekly to get it fixed. They KNOW me at the LBS and know why I'm there when they see me. It's been like that for a year now.

    Well, I agree with this...

    So, in my opinion if you are going to buy any bike you should perhaps concentrate on the road bike rather than a tri bike- you would be more sure to be able to use it for its purpose.
    If I EVER get to the point where I can run a 1/2 marathon, then I will cross the "get a tri bike" bridge.

    Once my tri on 9-17-06 is completed... I am doing to take my bike to the LBS and get advice on what I should do.

    Should I get a tune up? Replace the shifting mechanisms? Or just replace the bike? My mechanic is really cool, and I trust him to give me a straight answer on what I should do with the bike.

    I also think I will talk to an old H.S. friend who works at the LBS and have him put me on his radar for when there is a GREAT deal on a bike in store.

    And if all else fails.... I know last year Trek did a 1 year/0% interest deal around Christmas time. That could work too!
    "Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather, to skid in broadside thoroughly used-up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming: WOW WHAT A RIDE!!!!"

 

 

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