Ive always rode mtb but I'm now building up a LHT with drop bars and I'm now sure what the setup should look like.
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Ive always rode mtb but I'm now building up a LHT with drop bars and I'm now sure what the setup should look like.
I can't help you as I don't ride drop bars on anything, but congrats on the LHT! When I had one it had 2-inch riser bars and triggers, I could ride that thing all day :)Quote:
Originally Posted by Hartmame
I am sure that others will speak up, just always glad to hear about a new Surly :) Did you get the disk or rim brake version?
Hartmame, You may want to do a little reading on the LHT owner's group
Not sure what you are wondering re setup but as they are designed for touring, your bars should be at least the same height as your saddle. We are big fans of bar end shifters but you can use other shifters too. So add a little detail and am happy to give you some suggestions.
Ok, I have drop bars barend shifters and am running vbrakes with the vbrake style brake levers. Are the bars run level or are they rotated downward? Brake levers sit at the top of the drop or?? Is there some type of rule of thumb about these things? I have the bars at the same height as the seat right now, Looks Normal.
The top of the bar (ramps) should be parallel to the ground. The brake levers, to start, should be as flat as possible. We put them on the bars, have the customer ride the bike and adjust until they feel right to the rider, then tighten them and wrap the bars. Some customers will ride the bike for a few days prior to taping just to make sure the brake levers are in the right spot. Can't wait to see the photos!
I put my bars at level when it was in the stand, but when I switched it to the trainer it seemed totally wrong. I tried to make make them level again. I'll have to put some time in on the trainer and make some adjustments.
if you get stuck, pm me and I will have the bike hermit talk to you, he is really good at walking people through. Hope your bars are the right size for you, are they the ones that come with the complete LHT or bars you bought separate? if so what are they and what size. Good luck with the tweaking!
Thanks sky, I purchased then bars through my LBS who measured my shoulders and ordered an inexpensive handlebar 40cm. The width feels good I hope to get a chance to play with it early in he week and let you know
Attachment 14298
I thought I'd just see if you can tell me anything about what might look wrong from this image.
Thanks
So who needs matching tires anyway :)
are your bars comfy that way?
I figure I can get the matching tire later, two wheels are two wheels for the purpose of getting it all set up and adjusted.
The handlebar is more of a concern. I rode it about thirty miles Wednesday. I didn't have any hand pain until mile 25 or so and didn't feel like I had my weight on my hands which was good, but when I stopped at intersections I kept stabbing myself in the thighs with the bar end shifters. I didn't know if this was just a matter of getting used to the drop bar position or if it pointed to a problem with how I set it up. I usually ride a MTB and there is more room between the saddle and the bars with my MTB. When I started riding the MTB on the road I noticed that the bars felt kind of far when staying in the saddle so much. I thought the hand pain after riding so long probably had to do with riding on a naked bar or that I should back the hoods closer to rider for a more even transition between the bar and hood as my LBS had suggested.
I wanted to get it in the best possible position before I attempt to wrap the bars. Are any of my issues a "tell" for a problem that I should be considering? Thanks for the help!
I notice your saddle is pushed very far forwards: You have a zero setback seatpost, and the saddle is quite forwards on the rails. Maybe this is correct for you, but... it really looks like you are trying to fit on a "too large" bike.Quote:
Originally Posted by Hartmame
At the same time, your handlebars are humongous! You mentioned they were cheap bars - perhaps look into some more expensive bars that are "smaller".
Hand pain can be from having too much weight on your hands. If you move the saddle back, this will take some weight off your hands. The cranks (pedals) are actually where a cyclist carries a lot of her weight. When the saddle is moved forwards, her upper body ends up in front of the cranks. This moves weight onto her hands.Quote:
Originally Posted by Hartmame
So, I suggest moving the saddle back, and get a handle bar that projects a shorter distance in front of the clamp. As a quick fix for the thigh stabbing, you could cut a short bit off handle bar ends - this will move the bar end shifters forward.
Funny about the saddle looking to far forward and hand pain. I just moved my saddle almost 2 cm forward and my hand pain decreased dramatically - I was feeling to stretched out. I think when I swapped saddles I didn't set my saddle on the right mark on the rail. Of course, if you have assistance do the plumb bob test and see if you knee is in proper position. I bet there is a step by step you tube out there. Here is the bike hermits blog post on saddle and set back
Bar end shifters, take a bit to get used to, on the mount and dismount, don't fret. After 4 years I still occasionally stab myself in the thigh and hey my bike shorts usually cover up the bruise :)
Thanks for the information. I lowered the seat and I can probably give it a little off set now.
I took a 25 mile ride and no bar end shifter stabbings. I guess there is a short learning curve after one good bruise.