Is it true nobody makes triple cranksets anymore?

My DH surprised me with a new bike for Christmas, a Cannondale Synapse 5 carbon. It's currently on order, and I'll go in for a fitting when it comes in.

BUT...it's only a double chain ring. I've needed a triple to handle the hills of Connecticut with my old bike, plus I'm pretty overweight which doesn't help in hauling up hills. The sales lady convinced my DH that hardly anybody makes triple chain rings anymore, and that the Synapse's double chain ring would be perfectly adequate to handle the hills here.

It's been 8 years since I last bought a bike. Is it true that double chain rings these days are just as capable as the old triples? I don't have a good feeling about this. Maybe if I lose 50 pounds, the double would be adequate. :(

Any opinions would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks

It is not true that no one makes triples anymore.

I'm not familiar with the Synapse, but I think that Trek only offers a triple on its lower-end Madones. The higher-end bikes have compact doubles.

Fwiw, the lowest gear on my road bike with a compact double is the equivalent of the lowest gear on my old bike, which had a triple.

Right--you can get a mountain bike compact double, and when I did that, my lowest gear was similar to what I had with a triple. And I live in a very hilly place--a mountain bike compact double works fine here. A standard road compact double would not.

When I bought my roadbike this year, I went about 5 rounds with the sales guy, insisting that I needed a triple (I had one on my old hybrid/flat bar bike). He kept telling me I didn't because the double is more efficient, etc I trust this sales guy, and listened to him in the end, and got the double.
He was sooo....right. The doulbe is fine. I've actually grown to really like it. In the beginning, I was a little freaked out, because I would drop into the lowest gear pretty quickly on some hills, and I would panic thinking I would need another gear. But so far, no problems.
I am a very beginner/intermediate rider, and not in great shape.
Whatever you choose, hope you love your new bike!

OK, thanks everybody. I'm feeling a little better. I'll keep in mind a mountain bike "compact double" .

Triples, for some reason, seem to be only available on the low-end bikes. (Mine is a *very* entry-level bike from a couple years ago, and it came with a triple). They certainly still make higher-end triples, but it's getting hard to find them. I live in southwest Ohio--pretty hilly, and a triple is certainly helpful. I don't think I've ever used my small ring, apart from one particular hill, but it's nice knowing that it's there!

I don't know why they're no longer making triples widely available. Weight savings, perhaps, combined with the fact that cassettes are expanding (widely available 10-speeds, and I believe there's an 11-speed out there). I have no idea. (If anyone wants to enlighten me, feel free!)
NyBiker, last time I checked (this summer), you could get a Madone with a triple, but you had to do it through the Project One thing...

Anyway, try it. You may surprise yourself. If you find yourself missing those lower gears, consider the mountain bike double. (You'll have to replace the shifter if you want the triple. That gets pretty pricey!)

My mtb has a triple chainring, DHs mtb a double. I can feel no difference in the lowest gears. His highest gear is a little less strong than mine, but honestly I seldom use my highest gear, only downhills (where it doesn't really matter anyway).
The double is easier to handle (and easier to keep clean), I like it better. If I could choose, I'd go for the double.

Actually the alloy version of the Synapse 5 comes with an optional triple. So I'm sure your LBS could swap it out for you. Most LBS will do that for only the difference in cost between the components (though a few will charge you full boat :().

I'm one of those who can't handle large jumps between gears. That, rather than your low gear, is the real reason to choose a triple over a compact. If you're comfortable with sudden large changes in RPM, then you should be fine with a compact. If not, think about the triple.

I love my triple, and it is on all of my bikes - including my custom bike. I understand some LBS staff will try very hard to convince you that triples are no-longer needed, but I disagree with that. My own LBS disagrees with that, which is nice. We all have different needs - I don't like the long jumps between gears, and my legs really like the triple. My 2011 mountain bike has a 10-speed triple, not that I can actually use all those gears just yet :o

It is nice there are choices, choices are good :)

I am a triple fan, I am not a racer but enjoy riding over hill and dale, sometimes with a load and hate running out of gears. Of course we aren't even discussing gear ratio here. If you feel the double doesn't have the correct ratio, do ask for a different gearing. perhaps it can be done with another double but if not put on a triple - I am not familiar with the bike so just a note switching to a triple may involve a new bottom bracket, etc. Most important, if the gearing doesn't work, you aren't going to enjoy riding and that isn't an option:)

OakLeaf is totally right. The Synapse 5 can ship with a triple (see the specifications on the Cannondale page: it ships with a 50/39/30 crank from FSA). What a nice gift! What color are you getting?

I think the color is light blue (color accent, rather). Wonder if the LBS will let me test it before committing? It's already paid for.

The other concern is being slightly more upright on the Synapse. "They" are always trying to get me on a more "comfortable" bike -- "Here, sweetie, you'll love this!" But I find that I lose power when I sit more upright, especially when climbing hills (I may be a fat ol' grayhair, but I don't shy away from climbs). I rented a Cannondale CAAD last year to ride around Tuscon and liked it very much. If the Synapse doesn't feel right, I might swap it out for an equivalently priced CAAD.

My old road bike has a triple, my new one has a double. I love my new bike, but would prefer to have a triple. My LBS has said that they can and will convert it to a triple if I want. Right now since we live in a flat area (coast) and don't have plans on riding the road bike in the mountains any time in the near future we're looking at taking the smaller chain ring off and getting what would be similar or the same as the middle chain ring on my triple to put where the smaller one currently is. That's the ring I typically ride the other bike in and would be much happier with right now on my new bike.

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Originally Posted by OakLeaf

Actually the alloy version of the Synapse 5 comes with an optional triple. So I'm sure your LBS could swap it out for you. Most LBS will do that for only the difference in cost between the components (though a few will charge you full boat :().

I'm one of those who can't handle large jumps between gears. That, rather than your low gear, is the real reason to choose a triple over a compact. If you're comfortable with sudden large changes in RPM, then you should be fine with a compact. If not, think about the triple.

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This is me. I have difficulties enough with the 8-speed cassette. (It's got climbing gears and gears for going really fast, and (to my legs) nothing in between.)

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Originally Posted by awm03

I think the color is light blue (color accent, rather). Wonder if the LBS will let me test it before committing? It's already paid for.

The other concern is being slightly more upright on the Synapse. "They" are always trying to get me on a more "comfortable" bike -- "Here, sweetie, you'll love this!" But I find that I lose power when I sit more upright, especially when climbing hills (I may be a fat ol' grayhair, but I don't shy away from climbs). I rented a Cannondale CAAD last year to ride around Tuscon and liked it very much. If the Synapse doesn't feel right, I might swap it out for an equivalently priced CAAD.

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If you like the CAAD, swap it without giving it a second thought. The Synapse has a more upright position (I have one and love it; my back cannot handle a racier position, unfortunately).

I have a triple Ultegra on my Orbea Diva.

To summarize what most people have said here:

The pros of a triple nowadays pretty much comes down to having a wide range of gears (but not necessarily a lower low gear than a compact double) with less of a jump between gears.

The pros of a double are that you don't have to lose the same lowest gear, and the shifting of the chain rings tends to be smoother with less need for tuning due to the fact that you're dealing with 2 rings instead of 3 and in addition, the distance the derailleur has to travel is less. So it's mechanically a little simpler. That and the weight issue.

My BF does custom bike builds for a living and he still has clients that want a triple over a double. And yes they are available but sometimes hard to source. So if you really want a triple, it's possible but I wouldn't give up on the compact double idea.

I have both and for the reasons that Oak described, I like my triple a lot better. I have an Ultegra triple that has never been a problem.
I actually have 2 lower gears on my compact double than the triple (I have the mountain bike rear cassette) and I hate the jump in one particular place. I am thinking of switching out the cassette to one that has one less low gear, but will have the cog I like and am now missing. It will essentially be a compact double with the same gearing as my triple.

I went from a triple to a compact double, and did not have any problems. The lowest gear is very similar to what I had on the triple.

The only adjustment was getting used to shifting between the two front rings- which was a big jump. It just takes a little more attention to plan ahead when you're coming up on hills. And after a little experience, I didn't think about it any more.

Sharon

Thanks so much everybody. You are a fantastic source of info. I am going to give the compact double a try, and if that doesn't work, I know now that it's not the end of the world.

I have a Ruby with a compact double. I found that it did not have enough low gears to get me up the hills. (Nothing is flat in the Santa Cruz mountains.) I now have a mountain bike cassette and derailleur and I love it!

The problem with Shimano is that they make an 11-34 or 11-36 10 speed derailleur for mountain bikes and pair it with a Shadow derailleur. Apparently this derailleur is not compatible with road bike shifters. After much searching on the Internet, I found that some people had bought the new cassette and paired it with an older Shimano Deore rear derailleur. I bought the pieces and had them installed, even though it is not to spec and bike stores don't seem to want to do this. It works fine, as long as I don't cross chain.

Even though I now have my bike working as I want, it was a struggle. If I was to buy a new bike, I would probably get a triple - or I'd have the bike shop where I bought it install the larger cassette and derailleur before I took it home.

I wouldn't get too hung up on triple vs. double. If you feel you need that "extra" gear change the rear cassette to an 11-28.

Featuretile, I have the Deore XT 11-34 cassette on my compact double Guru and I am surprised that whoever built up your bike didn't do this as the go-to solution. My friend also has it on her Ruby Expert, and it was the first suggestion by the LBS she bought from, after she told them the regular compact double wouldn't cut it for her on the hills around here. This combination is becoming quite common here.
While switching the rear cassette to an 11-28 on a compact might give a little relief, it definitely would give me one less lower gear than I have on my triple. I have a 27 tooth cog on my triple that I am replacing in the spring with a 28 :). It's not that I really "need" it, but my knees appreciate it on a steep climb.
I'm too old to worry about what people think about my low gears.
When DH and I do our portion of our club's bike workshop, we always say "your most important gear is your lowest gear." Too many of these beginners are struggling because they are mashing, hurting their knees, and then giving up. We spend a good deal of the time talking about how to use your gears/shifting to your advantage.

With a medium cage rear derailleur and a ten speed 11 to 32 mated with a compact double, your lowest gear is as low as a road triple. Better chain line, less weight, less shifting for all those 'intermediate' gears that are almost the same. All this has already been covered here. Sheldon Brown has a good gear calculator that you might want to play with to see what you are using now vs. the double.

Shifting the front, then the back to get to these intermediate gears is a pain, it's not linear. Currently only my new 'beater' commuter has a triple, the 30lb Novara. Can't stand it, and will change it when the rear cassette is worn, probably to a 11~32 & compact double. My light weight road bike weighs half what the Novara weighs so I don't need as low a gear, so use an 11~26.

I assume when people refer to the jump, they are referring to shifting the chain ring/front derailleur. Is this correct or are there other jumps in the gearing. (Don't know why there would be. But must ask.)

Any time you shift there's a jump. It can be small (like shifting from your 11 to your 12 in back) or large (like shifting anything in the front, or like shifting from a 15 to a 17 in back - which is one particular shift that both Crankin and I find to be too big).

To get a wide range of gears with fewer chainrings, you need a wide range in back, and that means big jumps. Just for example, a 9-speed Shimano Deore 11-34 is 11-13-15-17-20-23-26-30-34. Now, you're talking about circumferences, basically, so a 4-tooth jump from 26 to 30 isn't as huge as it would be from 11 to 15, but it's still big. Sheldon Brown (RIP) has a handy-dandy gear calculator that can give you a better idea of the gear ratios, but you still have to do the math yourself if you want to figure RPM at any given speed from one gear to the next.

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Originally Posted by jusdooit

I wouldn't get too hung up on triple vs. double. If you feel you need that "extra" gear change the rear cassette to an 11-28.

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1+ on this. I've found that having a 28 tooth cog on the back goes a long way toward making up the difference between having a double or a triple on the front.

Crankin,
You might find this funny, but I got the 11-36 put on my bike because the 12-32 I had was not quite cutting it. There are places with 15% grade here and I was never making it to the top without walking or at least resting part way up. I would then lose most of the group, if not all. Now I can get up anything! Still not the fastest in the bunch, but I feel so much better. The 36 is only used for those really steep hills, but it's nice to know that I have it. If I lived in a flatter area, it would be quite useless, so it depends on where you live. And the bike stores here do not recommend this option. It seems that if the manufacturers are going to discontinue triples, they ought to make this option available.

We tend to have shorter, steep climbs here in New England, as opposed to the longer 4-6% grades in the west. For instance, my driveway, which is 850 feet, is 15% at the steepest part and my street varies between 4% and 12% in about 1.4 miles. Just west of here, we have regular 12-20% climbs, and the further west or north you go, the steeper and longer they can be.
I'm glad you found the solution. I haven't ridden my bike with the compact enough to pass final judgement. I like the feel of the shifting, right now I am being annoyed by the Frogs, which seem to unclip on their own...
I keep saying I just need to get stronger and deal with riding in a very slightly harder gear (instead of the 16 cog), as I am not sure I want to lose my 2 lower gears. The reason I got this bike was to take on trips (it has couplers and can go in a regular sized suitcase), where we usually end of doing a lot of climbing, whether it is in the Berkshires or in Europe. If I switch to the 11-32 from the 34, to get the 16 cog, I will essentially be riding a very expensive custom steel bike with the same gears as my carbon bike with the triple. So, the jury is out.

I went in for my bike fitting today. I brought up the subject of gearing, and after 10 minutes of persistence, it finally got through the guy's head that maybe I really did have reason for concern. We looked at my old bike and counted the cogs on the biggest sprocket: "Do you really use that?" the bike guy asked incredulously. DOH!

Since the Shimano compact double doesn't have an option that replicates my old triple's 30 front/ 28 back, I'm switching to a SRAM Rival system with a 34 front/32 back. I'm a little leery of the SRAM shifting action, but I suppose I'll get use to it -- old dogs can learn new tricks. And I think I'll enjoy the gearing very much.

Did you decide to keep the Synapse or did you go with the CAAD?

the Synapse. Think I'll give carbon fiber a whirl :)

http://www.cannondale.com/2012/bikes...womens-4-rival