Trying to adjust to a road bike

The LBS let me borrow a new Specialized Roubaix Expert for the weekend. This is the second full weekend getting to test a Roubaix for sizing. Last weekend I tested a 56cm Comp, and this weekend a 54cm Expert (the 54 is my size).

I'm 50+ and have been riding a hybrid. The hybrid has served me very well but we'd like to expand our horizons and go further, faster, join club rides and other organized rides, and be able to easily keep up.

I'm choosing a comfort road bike because I do not want to feel too stretched out. I love the way the Roubaix rides. I love the speed, handling, and smoothness of this bike. The fitter at the LBS will do a computerized fitting and get the bike correctly fitted to me.

That said............ I am wondering how long it takes to really feel comfortable, "at home" on a road bike. I tend to place way too much weight on my hands at the front of the hoods near the shifters. I'm trying to remember to just rest my hands there, not rest my weight on them, and to practice supporting my weight with my core and back muscles. I'm also trying to remember to bend my elbows more and let my back and shoulders relax and to not feel afraid of leaning forward a bit. Meanwhile, constantly having to remember this, pull back or adjust my hand position, etc. is diminishing some of the joy I otherwise have on the bike. I feel so focused on my posture and positioning, adjusting my neck and back, that I'm wondering if this is for me.:confused: I know it takes some time to get comfortable and a couple of rides a week apart isn't going to do that.

But, how do I know if I just need to get accustomed to this position, or if it's not right for me at all?

Anyone have any suggestions to ease my mind and help me relax and adjust?

I can't say for sure Yen, but I was in your spot last spring/summer after getting my Roubaix, and yes, it took some time to get used to leaning forward. I didn't have the test ride time you did -- didn't have a clue I wasn't absolutely comfortable with the new riding position until I got home and rode for an hour or two. My sales person, knowing that I'd been riding an upright bike so far, told me to take it home and ride a couple of hundred miles before we make any changes to the fit because of that.

Knowing that he'd seen me on the bike and knew what I looked like/should look like, I trusted this advice -- I had ridden a bike or three that really did NOT feel good, right off the curb, and this one felt good to me, given the limited ride I gave it.

I can't say how long it took to get past putting too much weight on my hands, and for a while, the whole idea of using the drops was just, like, you know, impossible! (it was more than the first couple of hundred miles, but considering my weight and fitness level at the time....)

Like you mention, it tooks some serious thought for a while, as well as some extra core strengthening off the bike. The more I rode, the less time I spent thinking about position. When I would realize that something was starting to hurt, I just put myself back in the proper position. I can't say it was obvious when the bike/position was suddenly "natural," but it did happen, and the time it took was worth it!

(I've been off the bike through the winter, and kind of figure I'll have to think about it again for a while, til my body remembers!)

Not necessarily help, but hopefully reassuring?

Karen in Boise

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Originally Posted by Yen

But, how do I know if I just need to get accustomed to this position, or if it's not right for me at all?

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I know you will get lots of good responses here. I don't know that I can answer your question.

I do know that about 4 years ago when I got my road bike (after a few months on a more upright old mountain bike), I felt some changes right away that were better, and some that took time to adjust to.

Better included a better fit, and some elbow joint pain went away immediately. But, at 38, I had not ridden a bike since I was a kid, really. My upper body, including shoulders, as well as my hands, got tired. I slumped on the bike, even though I enjoyed it, because I just did not have the core or shoulder muscles.

I have been riding consistently and more and more for the last four years, getting stronger each year. Last year I started training my core, and this year I've added some upper body strength work. With the years of riding, the core work, and the strength work, I am MUCH better on the bike now...able to hold myself up without my hands, and I no longer have to think about it...it just is.

Also, as the muscular endurance in my legs increases, and as my butt has gotten used to the saddle, along with the core work, I find that I have a much more equal and versatile distribution of weight on the three contact points: butt, pedals, hands.

Anyhow, I don't know much about bike fit. I seem to have gotten lucky with my first road bike, because I can ride it all day without beating up my body. But, there is no question that there is some development time in getting comfortable on a bike.

That said...the wrong bike for you and all your idiosyncracies will never be the right bike...no matter the conditioning, etc. Do you have a bike fitter near you who is also into physical therapy? Or any way to be really sure the bike fits both your measurements, and also the specific needs of your body's peculiarities? (hey, we all have them!)

So now that you have the right size, I think your position will be more comfortable. When I started from a mountain bike to the road bike, I would get tight in my shoulders and lower back. Try to change your hands between the drops, hoods, and even on the top on the bars. Shake your shoulders and hands out. You'll get the hang out of it. I swear.

I'm assuming the shop did a quick fit of the bike for you, and gave you a nice neutral fit with the bars at the same height as the saddle, saddle set so your heel just grazes the pedal, etc.

Can I ask you to check one thing?

Get a piece of string and tie your keys to it. Get on the bike, put one pedal at 3:00 position and one pedal at 9:00 position. For the forward (3:00) leg, ask someone to hold the string against the calloused boney bump you kneel on (just below your knee caps, kinda on the shin) and let the keys dangle almost to the floor. Let the string be on the bike side of the crank (the inside). The string should cross the crank at or up to 2 or 3 cm behind the pedal spindle. (I use the "hole" on the back side of the crank as my landmark, but some folks like to look at the pedal side.)

If the string is hanging out beyond the pedal spindle, try moving the saddle down a cm or two, and sliding the saddle back on the rails a cm or two.

Women have longer femurs than men, and I am seeing bikes set up for leg length without taking into account that a woman will need more setback than the average man to put her knee in the right spot when she puts force through the pedal.

Just this Friday I had a woman who's bike shop's fitter had "given up" on her fit, telling her it was the wrong size bike and he just couldn't make it fit. She was all crunched up and weightbearing on her hands. The problem was he had set the saddle position for a man of her leg length, where a woman would need the same distance from the pedal as man, but farther back and down. (longer femur=farther back, shorter tibia=lower down, but the *distance* to the pedals remains the same)

Trying to push through the pedal with her knee hanging out front was throwing her whole body off. Just moving the saddle corrected her posture, got her weight off her hands, and made her feel comfortable. And now the bike was the "right" size.

Thank you for your reassurance. I was afraid you'd all say "If it's the right bike for you, then everything should feel comfortable immediately!":eek:

Last weekend, we met with the fitter who took measurements and determined the best size bike for me. He also recommended narrower bars than what comes on the Roubaix (more like the Ruby dimensions). The fitter wants me to ride whatever bike I end up buying for a couple of hundred miles to adjust to the position before we do a complete professional fitting, since I am coming from an upright hybrid. I like that philosophy VERY much so when he suggested it, I was quick to agree.

Yesteday, The LBS owner did a quick fitting of me on the demo bike, on a trainer. He had already swapped the bars to the narrower size and it was ready for me when we got there. On the trainer, he changed the stem to shorten my reach just a bit, and tweaked the saddle and stem height.

I went for a short ride alone after we got home. I noticed a light rubbing sound as I rolled the bike toward the door, and when I spun the wheel it stopped on its own after a few revolutions (without applying the brakes). The demo bikes are assembled elsewhere and delivered to the shop upon request, so I know it wasn't assembled at the shop. Anyway I could hear the same noise as I rode it, and it was making me feel nervous since it is not my bike. I think I was concentrating on that noise and expecting perfection from this bike (I tend to do that with everything I spend a lot of money for...:o) so I was also focused on that, as well as my reach, as I rode. I also noticed, however, that the bike does absorb bumps very well, shifting is smooth, and is a very smooth ride.

This bike is also a MUCH better fit than that of my hybrid which is too big for me overall. So, I don't doubt that the overall fit of the bike is right. A few weeks ago, I briefly rode (around a parking lot) a 54 Ruby which felt too small -- it's the size equivalent of a 52 Roubaix -- so I don't think I need to go the WSD route with this bike and the fitter does not recommend it for me.

I know my back, shoulders, and core muscles are not strong, and I'm working on that. My back and neck are not flexible, and I'm working on that too. I tend to carry a lot of tension in my upper back, shoulders, and neck. So, I have a lot of work to do in this area. In addition to strength training of my shoulders and back, if I can get myself to just relax and lean forward a bit, and keep my elbows bent, I'll feel more comfortable.

KNOTTEDYET: You mentioned something that I have read elsewhere and seems counter-intuitive at first. That is, that moving the saddle back a bit relieves pressure on the hands. It seems that moving it back would place more pressure on the hands because the rider would need the hands more to balance the further reach. Can you explain that? I will try the test with the string and keys. The saddle might also be a tad too high so we'll adjust that too.

I really, really want to make this work! Thanks so much again for your reassurance.

Jen

Jen, your description of the wheel suggests that it is out-of-true and needs to have the spokes adjusted. Definitely take it to the shop to have them do that real quick. If the rim is rubbing on the brakes, it won't be riding right.

FWIW, I wasn't comfortable at all on my bike at first either, but with time and a few very little tweaks, I am now a very happy camper. Try to relax and enjoy the process. I think you've done your homework and seem to have honed in on a good bike for you.

There's alot to think about when you are out riding! I'll add a few more. Every once in a while, shrug your shoulders. That'll bring your shoulders back down; you may be shrugging them without noticing, and keeping them shrugged.

Elbows bent and relaxed, but you know all that already.

Keep working on your core. I've already extolled the virtues of pilates, but I'll say it again: pilates works on strength and flexibility of your whole back.

okay, let us know how it goes.

On a road bike, the weight over the wheels should be about equal (+/- 5%). That means you want to also be balanced over the bike (+/- 5% -- experts, please refine my "mostly").

While your legs are part of the issue, think of your upper body as a triangle. Your shoulders are at the peak and hands are one corner and your tush the other. Think about balancing that triangle. If that triangle is acute (arms really close to the tush), then you're not stable; if the triangle is really obtuse (as you mention really spread out), that triangle, again, is not stable. However, in between there is that perfect spot.

When I wanted to go faster and further, I got me a 7500FX and put skinny tires on it. There are 'hybrid' options that are reasonably fast.

However, basically everybody I know who's gotten a good fit on a road bike has been happy with it.

If your saddle is level, you can also try barely tilting the nose up. I find that if I ride exactly level that I feel like I have much more weight on my hands. Also, like everyone else said- work on core, upper body, and leg strength- Pilates is great, as is just plain weight training. The "superman" back exercise should be one that you do a couple of times a week to build lower back strength & endurance.

Another one that I love for cycling is the thruster:
Using dumbbells (start light- 5 to 10 pounds- & work your way up as you get stronger), stand up straight, hold them at your shoulders, and squat down into a low squat. Then, quickly stand back up straight, extending your arms into a shoulder press at the top. You can put something under your butt to "aim" for when you squat. It's important to keep an arch in your back and make sure your hips go back like you are trying to sit on something low (think hovering over the toilet in a preschool bathroom!) Here's a video:Thrusters Demo @ crossfit.com

This one works the upper body muscles that you use to support yourself on the bike as well as your lower back and abs (for stability & power transfer from the legs), and, of course, your legs!

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Originally Posted by Yen

KNOTTEDYET: You mentioned something that I have read elsewhere and seems counter-intuitive at first. That is, that moving the saddle back a bit relieves pressure on the hands. It seems that moving it back would place more pressure on the hands because the rider would need the hands more to balance the further reach. Can you explain that?n

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It's true.
Try this experiment to help you visualize it:
Get on your hands and knees on the floor. Notice how much weight is on your hands. Get a feel for where your center of gravity is.
Now, keeping your hands or knees in the exact same position on the floor, move your butt back a couple of inches, as though you were moving your "saddle" back but keeping your handlebar in the same spot. Notice how this takes weight off your hands and moves your center of gravity back over your legs and off your arms. What it does is make your legs support you more and takes some of that job away from your hands and arms (which shouldn't be supporting your weight anyway). This whole issue is one of the classic problems of 'some' women cyclists riding men's bikes with long top tubes.

Being another 50+ and just getting back into road riding, after 18 years... I have found riding my road bike on a trainer very helpful. It has gotten my muscles back to "remembering" the position, spin and comfort. It also allows you to concentrate on position, without the worries of the road. Once you're comfortable on the bike the road will be easier.
This is assuming you have been fit correctly to the bike.

Yen, I've got much the same problem with feeling like my posture isn't what it should be. I've done three long rides (for me, meaning more than 25mi) in the past three weeks and each time have barely made it to the end because my forearms and wrists were screaming at me. Even when I'm trying to be conscious of not locking my elbows, etc....Yesterday's 33mi was the worst yet.......Had the bike fitted a month or so ago, which helped in general terms, especially with an ongoing lower back ache. But sounds another 'go' at fitting might be a good idea...Plus, I know my core strength is lousy--something I'm starting to work on.....All of the ideas being floated here are really useful, thanks!

Sounds like you had a brake pad rubbing the wheel.

You should also get fitted to the bike and then ride it. You may have to readjust your fit as you get more miles on the road bike. This bike setup may have the bars too close to you. I know that when I needed to flip my stem down that I would get really sore in the shoulders because I was hunching them to make enough room for my arms, essentially. You should also have a saddle position as far forward as you can where you can just hold yourself up without falling on your face when you remove your hands from the bars (best to test this out on a trainer..haha). So find the part where you feel like you're going to tip and then move it back a smidge. A good place to start is by doing the knee over pedal spindle test, but based on your femur length and the geometry of the bike versus your build, this is only a general guideline. You shouldn't be using gobs of core strength while your hands are on the bars.

All of that said, I LOVE my 54 Roubaix comp. :) Get fitted. Ride. If it's for you, then ride some more. Then get refitted as your road bike fitness and comfort level improves.

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Originally Posted by aicabsolut

Sounds like you had a brake pad rubbing the wheel.

You should also get fitted to the bike and then ride it. You may have to readjust your fit as you get more miles on the road bike. This bike setup may have the bars too close to you. I know that when I needed to flip my stem down that I would get really sore in the shoulders because I was hunching them to make enough room for my arms, essentially. You should also have a saddle position as far forward as you can where you can just hold yourself up without falling on your face when you remove your hands from the bars (best to test this out on a trainer..haha). So find the part where you feel like you're going to tip and then move it back a smidge. A good place to start is by doing the knee over pedal spindle test, but based on your femur length and the geometry of the bike versus your build, this is only a general guideline. You shouldn't be using gobs of core strength while your hands are on the bars.

All of that said, I LOVE my 54 Roubaix comp. :) Get fitted. Ride. If it's for you, then ride some more. Then get refitted as your road bike fitness and comfort level improves.

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I'm glad you like it. What year is yours?

Thanks everyone, again, for your reassurance and advice. We returned the Roubaix rentals and now have a pair of Cannondale Synapses to try out (top-of-the line with all DA !!! :eek:). I wasn't at the shop when my husband picked them up so mine does not have a different stem, but it is my size and the owner made other adjustments based on how he set up the Roubaix.

Basically, I want to feel sure that, although the reach feels far and uncomfortable now and assuming I'm on the *correct* size bike, reasonable adjustments will make it feel better and shorten my reach, while I learn to adjust to the position. I'm a little scared that I'll buy this new bike for a lot of money and even after 200-300 miles I'll still be uncomfortable and wondering what have I done?!

The fitter wants me to ride for 200-300 miles before I get the full fitting, since I'll be jumping from a hybrid to a road bike (so to speak -- I'm imagining a man jumping from horse to horse like in those old westerns right now...:D). Then, I believe he'll be available for questions and adjustments after that as well. This LBS offers free lifetime maintenance as well (and we are borrowing these bikes at no cost), so I think this is a great shop to stick with, which narrows my choices to the Synapse and the Roubaix.:confused:

It sounds like you're dealing with a really great shop.

Mine is an '06, Gerolsteiner team paint. I'd definitely go with expert or pro (or S-works ;) ) if I could afford it, but the comp with 105/ultegra/fsa is doing pretty well. I changed saddle and bars. Just needs a race wheel upgrade.

Keep in mind that the Cannondale geometry will be pretty different from the Roubaix. Generally, I think people go down a size in Cannondale, but that's not written in stone or anything. It may mean you'd want a different stem or something though than with the other bike.

Something else to consider while you're testing this stuff out is handlebar width. if you've got 42-44cm men's bars on there, you may not feel as comfortable riding on the hoods as if you had 38cm or 40cm bars (mens or women's--though I think only women's bars come in 38). Bar width and the reach to the levers and all of that can affect how your shoulders and neck are feeling. It's usually more comfortable to be too wide rather than too narrow, and some people prefer a wide bar for climbing, but there's wide and then there's way too wide.

Sounds like you've got a fantastic shop!

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Originally Posted by aicabsolut

Keep in mind that the Cannondale geometry will be pretty different from the Roubaix. Generally, I think people go down a size in Cannondale, but that's not written in stone or anything. It may mean you'd want a different stem or something though than with the other bike.

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Absolutely! Fuji measures center to top to get the frame size, while Canny measures center to center (at least they did the last time I owned one). Bike sizes are just like clothing sizes- what fits in one brand won't necessarily fit in another brand. Stick with the actual frame measurements to compare, rather than sizes, and you'll be fine. It sounds like your shop is really taking this into account, and won't assume that you need the same size in both bikes.

Sounds like your shop is taking care of you. But for the record, I actually went up a size from the 48 cm Ruby I demo'ed for three days, to the 50 cm Synapse Feminin I wound up buying. Specialized and Cannondale seem to size their WSD frames about the same, and it's just that the Ruby felt maybe a weedie bit small on me. For comparison, my old custom steel frame, without a sloping top tube, was a measured 47 cm c-to-c.

Is it the WSD Synapse you're trying, or the "men's" frame?

Yes, I think this is a great shop. They seem very conscientious about taking care of the customer.

The fitter (he doesn't work at the shop, he goes in to do fittings there) recommended narrower bars for me. This week we have a pair of top-'o-the-line C'dale Synapses, boy are they nice. I haven't had a chance to ride mine yet (53cm) because I've been at work, but I'll take it out tomorrow. Hubby already rode his today and said his reach was too far and his shoulders and neck were very uncomfortable. He's feelling a little disillusioned and wondering what other options he has if neither of these two very popular comfort-geometry road bikes can't be adjusted to set him up high enough. He rides an old Schwinn road bike (steel) and his angle is about 45 degrees and he looks very comfortable on it; he wants to be at the same angle on the new bike.

I told the fitter than I wonder if a WSD might be best for me to shorten my distance to the bars. Even if I do get more comfortable, I really don't want to be leaned over a lot -- I know this is heresy in the road bike world, but I enjoy being a little more upright (less than a hybrid, but more than a typical roadie) so I can relax and look around and wave at folks. I'm in this for the fun, fitness, and recreation with my husband -- I'm not competitive. We just want to be able to ride as far as we want, join group rides and not have to work so hard to keep up, and work up to some century rides. And we prefer a more upright position (my husband has an artificial shoulder and the other one will probably need one in a few years) for comfort.

The fitter strongly recommends against WSD for me. However, he also told my husband he wouldn't put on a 35 degree stem "because it doesn't look good". My husband told him he doesn't care how it looks, he just wants to feel comfortable. I hope we won't have to wrestle with him to get us as comfortable as we want to feel, regardless of how we look.

Maybe you should be on a touring bike which puts you in a more upright relaxed position (set up for long distance riding rather than speed) rather than a road (racing) bike.
And some people just like hybrids more than road bikes anyway.
Comfort is important, especially when you are not in your 20's anymore. ;) :cool:

+1 on checking out the touring bikes out there...

This is really great information. I've been riding with a fairly informal group of people, half of whom have touring/comfy almost beach-looking bikes, the other half are more serious and have road bikes. Me: I haven't had a road bike in 20 years and have been riding a mountain bike and been working to keep up with the roadies because the touring side of the group goes at a much nicer pace (perfect for just starting out, or really, really taking in a pretty day).

I am just starting to shop again for a road bike, and now I wonder if I shouldn't see if I couldn't find one used/cheap, get used to it, then get a good bike that would have the right fit?

:confused:

Yen, you've got lots of great info here, and I have a couple of thoughts, too (as usual :rolleyes:)

I just got the Canondale Synapse. I LOVE it! Had it fit by the guy I trust at a nearby bike shop. Went for the first ride last weekend and nothing hurt!! My story is not quite the same as yours: I had a year and a half of not being able to ride due to illness, but started to regain health in November ish. Since January have been exercising on the bike on the trainer about 4 times a week, and doing a ball class and belly dancing class- those last two have really helped with core strength and body awareness. I've continued to do yoga throughout. I bought the Syanpse because of it is designed more for distance / comfort than for racing, and, at the time we fit it, my illness was still causing too much discomfort in my belly to bend over any further than I was. My thought on this frame is that, if you're going to move to a full on road bike, this one ought to become comfortable at some point.

So, why are you putting more weight on your hands? The girls have covered fit quite nicely, and I agree with all of the points they made. Another thought is - how comfortable is your saddle? If your getting too much pressure on your soft tissue, you may be pushing your butt to the back and, thus, stretching yourself out further, which puts more weight on your hands. Another thought is your body position. In addition to seat placement front/back, think about how you hold yourself on the bike. I think I've got this right: your pelvis should be in a neutral position - not tipped forward or back, but, essentially, level. Unlike all those other exercises we do for flexibility, etc, on the bike we want to bend at the waist, not at the hips. This allows us to keep that neutral position, which keeps our sit bones bearing our body weight, while still bending forward to reach the bars. This is where developing core strength helps: it is easier to keep your pelvis upright with your waist bent, if your core muscles can hold it there. It took me years of riding to figure this one out, by the way!! Another cue that might help with positioning, not unlike shrugging your shoulders, try to think of your collarbones broad and open. This may shift your center of gravity a bit back and may lift a bit of the weight off your hands.

As for the fitter at the bike shop - he's sounding a bit elitist. The important part of bike fit is the FIT to that particular rider, not how it looks. If you have difficulty with him still, ask the shop if there is anyone else who can fit you. It's never fun to have to fight for what you need!!

Listen to your body carefully, you know it best, and only you will be able to tell if this fit will be something you can become accustomed to so that it becomes comfortable, or if the bike style just isn't right for you.

I'll send butterflies to help you out with that!

Hugs,
~T~

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Originally Posted by grey

This is really great information. I've been riding with a fairly informal group of people, half of whom have touring/comfy almost beach-looking bikes, the other half are more serious and have road bikes. Me: I haven't had a road bike in 20 years and have been riding a mountain bike and been working to keep up with the roadies because the touring side of the group goes at a much nicer pace (perfect for just starting out, or really, really taking in a pretty day).

I am just starting to shop again for a road bike, and now I wonder if I shouldn't see if I couldn't find one used/cheap, get used to it, then get a good bike that would have the right fit?

:confused:

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By touring bikes, we're not talking about cruisers at all. Touring bikes look like road bikes to most people, and they are road bikes. They are made for touring, not racing. They have a longer wheelbase, wider gearing, and are designed to carry panniers and gear. The geometry is different than racing bikes--more relaxed. I like touring bikes very much, even though I don't haul any camping gear around. They are just very comfortable, solid bikes. I highly recommend looking at them if you are looking for a road bike and will not be racing.

These touring bikes are all fully loaded...but you can see what a lot of different touring bikes look like here. :)

Since touring bikes have been mentioned...

You might consider looking at some cyclocross bikes as well. It sounds like you're looking at bikes that are spec'd better than most cx bikes, but might be some options out there for you (Trek XO2? Bianchi Cross Concept? There aren't many carbon cross frames out there, if you have your heart set on carbon -- Ridley might make some?). CX bikes typically have a more relaxed geometry than road bikes (bars typically end up close to level with seat). They also have clearance for wide tires, although you can certainly run skinny racing tires on them. Some cx bikes come drilled with rack bosses for touring too, although these tend to be the lower end cx bikes -- bikes that are marketed more as a touring/utility bike and less as a cx racing bike. One thing to be aware of is that some lower end cx bikes can be relatively heavy, but the higher end bikes are comparable to midrange road bikes (18lbs). You probably won't find many super light, 16lb cx bikes, if that's important to you...

just a thought...

one other thing to be aware of is that most stock cx bikes come with some variation of lower-than-standard-roadbike gearing. this may or may not be appropriate for the riding you want to do.

ETA: Ahh, Ridley DOES make a carbon cross bike. Pricey, but what a sexy frameset!

http://www.competitivecyclist.com/za...RODUCT.ID=3298

that's a light frame too. And there's one that's a little less pricey:

http://www.competitivecyclist.com/za...RODUCT.ID=4783

For comparison, here are my two bikes. Even though the saddle-to-bar drop on my road bike is not terribly extreme, notice how the drop on the Bianchi cyclocross bike is much smaller.


Attachment 5580

Attachment 5581

Wow, what a couple of sweet bikes!

Here's another example of a touring bike that isn't loaded up. This is my Terry Classic (yes, the front wheel is smaller, because I'm smaller ;)) and I use it as my road bike when conditions are poor (dark, rain, etc). Of course, the day I took this picture, it was a wonderful day. I forget why I'd chosen this bike over my other road bike that day.

http://www.tranquilitysystems.com/ga...4-IMG_0618.JPG

I rode a road bike today for the first time ever. I thought the difference between a road bike and my commuter bike is like the difference between manual and automatic transmission. Anyone who can use a clutch can drive either manual or automatic, but someone who has learned only automatic has to learn to use a clutch. It was like that with the road bike. It took me a couple tries just to mount the darn thing.

I felt like I was going to fall over the entire time. I was kind of glad when the front tire went flat after only a mile and my ride was over.

I want to try again, but on a bike that would fit me. Also, I was coming down with a cold, and felt terrible. The wind was incredibly strong and had nearly blown me over twice on my way to the bike shop. I was already inclined to change my plans, when I got the flat.