I just bought a set of Nitto Albatross bars that I want to switch with the flat bar on my Globe....It has a "pop top" stem...and I was thinking I could just switch them myself.
Is it a feasible and safe undertaking?
elk
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I just bought a set of Nitto Albatross bars that I want to switch with the flat bar on my Globe....It has a "pop top" stem...and I was thinking I could just switch them myself.
Is it a feasible and safe undertaking?
elk
Not sure what you mean by "pop-top" stem -- is it a threadless stem? Anyway, it's pretty easy to switch out bars -- but you should be aware that if they are a different size than your old bars, the cable length may be wrong for the new bars and it may be necessary to run new cable.
Do you have a good relationship with your LBS? Mine will explain to me how to do something, then after I've done it they will check my work and adjust cables and such.
I feel much more confident doing something new, knowing that someone will check to be sure I did it right.
If you've got brake levers for flat bars, and the cables don't go under the bar tape (you have grips but not tape?) then you should have plenty of leeway on cable length. You might even be able to swap the brake levers and gear shifter without disconnecting the cables.
Yes...threadless stem....if I loosen 2 bolts, i can pull the front off and take the bar out, replace it and bolt it back in.
I think I will be able to tell if the cable is long enough before I do it; if I have to mess with that, I'll take it in. And definately have someone check it.
I did find a set of videos that are helpful (and very sweet) on working w/a mt bike...I have the same kind of bars....just a set of grips.
http://www.expertvillage.com/videos/...es-removal.htm
I wasn't sure if sliding my shifters and brake levers off would change the tension or settings. I don't have the new bars yet...but I feel pretty confident now that I can do it...if I have enough cable slack.
thanks!
elk
No go.
My cable isn't long enough to just swap out the brakes and the shifter (I have internal gears)
I am going from a flat bar to a pretty curvy albatross...
I took the whole thing apart , had to cut one of the grips off only to realize....damn!
Called the closest BS, and one that's been around forever, but doesn;t have the swamp of customers that others have - asked how long it would take to get new cable... I'd have to leave it for the day....they said something about "cutting" the cables.
Since I cut the ugly grips off, and really pared down all the doo dads, I was looking at the old handlbar (which I reinstalled) and holding up a pair of tan leather grips to it and I thought....hmmmm... niiiice. With my tan B67, looks pretty hot....( in an old fashioned way...:) )
Maybe i should just save the switch for the dead of winter when I know I won't be riding for at least a day or so...I do want to sit up a little straighter....maybe just a shim for now?
!. If I put the leather grips on my old bar ...will I have to cut them off when the bars DO get switched? Or does a mechanic have a way to save them?
2. HOw involved IS adding longer cables?
3. I am totally mystified by ths threadless stem...where the heck would the shim go?? And what kind?
oh tia, my patient friends...
elk
If you are swapping the shifters over, the grips will have to come off one way or the other. But that doesn't mean you have to sacrifice them. It just takes time, patience and a syringe filled with liquid soap as a lubricant. It'd take forever to explain the process, but basically, you peel the edge back a bit, inject some of the soap and twist the grips side to side a little to work the soap around. Repeat as necessary until the grips come off.
Adding longer cables is pretty simple. However, when you replace the cables, your shifter will need to be adjusted because the tension won't be quite right. Personally, I'd advocate giving it a shot so you understand how your bike works. Or buy a very sympathetic wrench a beer if they'll let you watch.
The thing you call a shim is basically a spacer. Just go to your LBS and ask them if they have spacers to move your stem a little higher. They should know what you are talking about. If you go asking for a shim, they'll get a little confused. To them, a shim is a thin piece of metal you use to increase the diameter of, say, your handlebars or seat post.
To add spacers onto your threadless stem, you have to remove the top bolt (but don't take the star-shaped thing out, that's a pain to get back in straight), loosen the two bolts that clamp the stem to your forks. Put your spacer in and replace the stem.
I doubt if you will be able to transfer your new leather grips from one bar to another without them getting pulled or scuffed up in some way. Personally, I wouldn't squirt soap into leather handgrips. :cool:
If it were me, I'd either just be patient about the process an do it slowly and carefully, or get the bike shop to do the main part of the bar switch and the cables for me. Putting new cables is not that complex or time consuming- the bike shop can probably do it quickly if you make an appt.
Dude..you're the MAN in a kilt!!
thanks. :D
Lisa..I didn't see your reply....DO you mean go slowly with the grips, or putting on the new cables?
I might try the spacer for awhile....I love the new bars, but if a spacer works to get my old bar proper, I can hold off on the operation for a bit...
I was looking at Zinn's Bike Maintenece book today...I think i'll buy a copy. I do so want to know all of this stuff!
Actually, Lisa, there is a rubber sleeve inside the leather, which would protect it from teh soap..and I'm not sure I mind a little scuffing...:eek:
e
You're in portland. Go to River City and tell them what you want.
The sales people there are good enough that they'll help you figure it out even if you aren't sure what it's called. There have been times where the only way I could get across to them is to go over to a bike and say "That damn thing. That's what I want..."
Plain water might have the same effect. It also helps if you work a little from each end.
And buy a copy of Zinn's. It's worth the money.
that's where I bought m' bike...River City....
I used rubbing alcohol when I switched around my grips. My LBS used air from the compressor. Shot those grips right off!
Even with just adding a spacer you may find that a cable needs to replaced or housing changed.
I'm a bit confused about your situation....but overall- I would just bring the whole thing to the bike shop and have them do everything in one shot, with an appt. It should take them very long if you time it right.Quote:
Originally Posted by elk
I think you will like the albatross bars. My DH loves them on his "town" hybrid.
yes...well I learned my lesson, trying to cut a time corner....
The shop we go to most frequently, and like very much, has a tune up special going on...can't get in for a week or so...
I do like them, Lisa, and you are right about the relationship between the Brooks and the bars...OMG...ZERO pressure.!!! Now I have to see whether I'm going to need the non-S version...I do need to go back on the rails...
e
Oh great! :)Quote:
Originally Posted by elk
If you have any feeling at all that you need to move your saddle further back- then just go ahead and GET the non-S version. It made a HUGE difference to me and my weight balance to get that saddle back another 1-2 inches. OMG it was so much better- I could get some power behind my legs pedaling for once. I suspect you will INSTANTLY love it as I did. If not, you can just send it back. :p It's not for everyone, of course, but from what you say I would suggest trying it.
I have another inch I can go back on the B67S. I'm going to do some "dialing" and go ride it today....We may have a rain free afternoon...
Maybe it's purely a visual thing, but having so little nose in front of the bar looks precarious....given the whle bottom heavy deal...
I assume with the B67, you can set it back farther with rail to spare?
Do you have a photo of yr B67 on the rails? (don't you have that yummy Rivbike?)
:)
How it looks is never as important as how it feels. Do you *feel* precarious?
This is the best I can do:Quote:
Originally Posted by elk
In this first picture, I have the B17S on, and it's pushed as far back as the rails allow:
http://harmonias.com/LisaBike_7.jpg
You can see that the S is a short saddle. but look where the back edge of the saddle is- it's directly over the rear brake pads.
Now here is the B68 (non-S):
http://harmonias.com/208.jpg
The back edge of this saddle as you can see, hangs 2-3" further back behind the brake pads. It too is shoved all the way back on its rails. But the rails are way longer so the saddle can go further back. It's also a longer saddle. (and wider for my sitbones, which is why I went with the B68).
(Please pay no attention to the cockeyed handlebar position in the second phot- it was a weird experiment and I have since changed my handlebars to ones that feel much better for me. :rolleyes:)
Hope this helps a bit.
thank you Lisa...it does help. quite a bit.
Knot...it doesn't feel precarious...but it does feel like I'm on the very back edge of the saddle and I don't have a lot of wiggle room.
I love the shape of the B67...that skinny nose that is out of the thigh-way... I guess you call it the "T"...and the wide seat... it appears the only difference is that the nose is almost an inch longer on the B67 so
I can't actually think of a single reason why I wouldn' t get the plain ol 67...
The only reason would be if you didn't want the springs, -in which case you'd get the B68.Quote:
Originally Posted by elk
Oh...I WANT the springs....I LOVE the springs!! I was riding on some typical Portland pavement today...heaves and cracks and veritable miniature mountains...and the bounce was tons of fun...:DQuote:
Originally Posted by Lisa S.H.
Well all right then, girl.....spring ON!!!! :p :p