Oh my that seat is high, your heel must be able to touch the pedal. I am no expert except in my own ride but that looks seriously wrong. What kind of fitting did they purport to do?
Printable View
Oh my that seat is high, your heel must be able to touch the pedal. I am no expert except in my own ride but that looks seriously wrong. What kind of fitting did they purport to do?
The kind of fitting where I can hear the manager(?) on his cell phone saying "I want to leave early today, traffic is going to be brutal" and they don't even bother to turn my bike right-side up again when I ask them to write the serial number on my receipt. I came to pick up half an hour before they closed.
The first time I went in I got put on one of the adjustable bike dummies and had my measurements taken and video of how I ride; when I went to pick up my bike they asked me if I wanted to see how it fit (uh, yes? Isn't that the point of getting a fitted bike built? Why are you even asking?) and seemed to set up my bike really quick, "is everything okay? Feel fine? Yep, you're good see ya"
: /
I accept that good bike mechanics aren't always good at customer service, but come on. Everything was obviously not okay and it was their job to know that; not for my noob self to get home and spend an hour with google trying to figure out what was wrong. Gah. I'm still mad and now I have a beer in me.
They actually set a brand new bike on the floor upside down? :eek: (Bikes are not supposed to flipped upside down. These days there are too many delicate things on the handle bars. Plus, soft stuff like the saddle and bar tape may get torn.) They should have clamped the bike into a bike repair stand, and twirled it around to hold the bike upside down in mid air.Quote:
Originally Posted by Antaresia
I bet they never set the saddle height to match the measurements - the assembling mechanic probably just inserted the seatpost a minimum amount, assuming it would be fine tuned later.Quote:
Originally Posted by Antaresia
Actually, I suspect they didn't keep any of the bike dummy measurements. They probably used the numbers only to order the "correct" parts.
I hesitate to mention this, but your cranks are neither current model Tiagra nor 105. First off, they are using an internal cartridge bottom bracket. (This is actually not necessarily bad.) Second, the backs of the arms are concave - which means they aren't made with "hollow" technology.Quote:
Originally Posted by Antaresia
They look kind of like Shimano FC-R453 cranks.
Antaresia I'm sorry if I am missing it but what is the manufacturer size on your frame? I think dont go into the shop with guns blazing bc I can tell u r getting frustrated, rightly so. But just to get the shop to do what you need I would point out how tight you r over the top tube and just tell them u are not comfortable and won't be able to ride the bike like that. I'm hoping they will just go ahead and order u a smaller frame size after they double check ur inseam. Be persistent on this.
I agree, polite but persistent.Quote:
Originally Posted by WindingRoad
I would be concerned about laura*'s comment about the parts -- if they put lower grade ones that those promised, I'd be upset. It can be a mistake (when I bought mine, they put the wrong pedals, but swapped them right away after checking the original order).
Regarding the saddle position, it seems a bit high. However, in my bike, while in the saddle, I can barely put the tip of one foot on the ground, leaning the bike a bit. The key issue is how your leg is positioned while you are on the pedals, and your comfort on the bike while riding (not so much stand over height). I only tried this barefoot, by my heel does not touch the pedal at the bottom of the stroke. I cannot see it myself, but if I had to guess, I think my pedal was about 1cm away from my heel.
You could try lowering the saddle yourself (maybe as much as an inch), ride again to see how it feels. Then go to the bike shop and request a proper fit of the new bike. The reason I suggest tinkering with the saddle height yourself is that you will then "collect" more information about the fit. Else, the first thing the will do is lower the saddle and send you off. It does not sound like you connected with the right people in the bike shop (assuming that not everyone in it is obnoxious).
ETA: Re the components, if they upgraded the shifters and rear derailleur to 105 and downgraded the front derailleur and cranks, perhaps it is fair deal? I'd look up the values and I'm sure others here can provide some guidance on fairness...
I am late to the game, but I wanted to put my voice in as one of those people who cannot stand over their bikes completely (my crotch touches the top tube of both) but my bikes fit me very well. Since you don't get on your bicycle by sitting on the seat and then pedaling off into the distance, I don't think that it really matters. I get on my platform pedal bike the same as I do the clipless - right foot slightly raised and resting on the pedal, bike leaned slightly towards me, push down on right pedal while lifting body off ground, sit down, connect left foot to pedal; get off in reverse order.
What DOES matter is you foot position on your pedals and thus your butt's distance from the end of the crank arm. I'm not sure if your heel should touch the pedals, but definitely the ball of your foot should (my heel does not touch my pedals). When you are at the bottom of the pedal stroke, with the ball of your foot on the pedal, your knee should be at approximately a 20˚ bend (I think that's the correct one). This is where you get maximum power and you aren't damaging your knees internal structure. You can measure and adjust your bike yourself to get to this level - I was professionally fitted on one bike and now I go from those baselines and tinker with my bikes myself. However, you did pay for a fitting and so I would definitely be upset if I were you.
The last thing I might mention is - even with all the numbers in the world, a "perfect" fitting may still not actually fit you. You are you - not some numbers - and if you are still uncomfortable on the bike, you aren't fit properly. It's just like in medicine - the lab can give you all kinds of numbers from the blood, but you have to look at the patient, not the numbers, to get a true picture of what's going on. Have them fit you again, on this bike, and don't leave until you are really comfortable.
Laura, Please read these posts on our website - Bike Touring News regarding bike fit and bike size. If you need additional information go to rivbike.com and look at more info about measuring your PBH (Pubic Bone Height) also you can find video's on you tube about measuring your PBH. I can't touch the ground without tilting my bike, that isn't what is important. What is important is being confident and having a bike fit that gives you the confidence. Good job and do continue to question - it is all about you!!!
I checked the tech docs for the FC-R453 cranks. They are 9 speed cranks! (And older technology Tiagra level.) This leads to the question of how many speeds is the bike: 9 speed or 10 speed? (27 total or 30 total.) The R453 cranks may or may not work properly with a 10 speed chain.Quote:
Originally Posted by pll
For usability, it doesn't really matter if the bike is 9 speed or 10 speed. However, today I'd be afraid of getting a new build 9 speed bike. About the time that the brifters wear out, you might not be able to get new ones! You might be forced to buy an entire new groupset of whatever is current production at that time.
(A while back there was a woman here with a lovely older 7 speed Terry bicycle with worn out components. Shimano no longer sells 7 speed brifters nor 7 speed road bike cassettes. I think she found some used brifters, but otherwise it could turned into a full bike rebuild.)
If the bike was built as a 9 speed, then the brifters are already obsolete. Tiagra is just now moving to 10 speed - thus 9 speed Tiagra is the old generation. And 9 speed 105 is two generations old.
Antaresia is the one with the new bike...Quote:
Originally Posted by Sky King
More bike fitting information from this website.
http://masterbikefitters.com/
Bike fit vs bike sizing:
http://www.fitwerx.com/bike-sizing-v...g-fit-formulas
Clarity about heel touching pedal:
Misconception: “To achieve proper saddle position, raise the seat until your heel just touches the pedal at the bottom of the pedal stroke.”
Reality: Optimal saddle position cannot be accurately determined from a formula, by measuring the rider’s inseam, or any other general rules of thumb. Optimally, you want a saddle position that allows for full leg extension without hyper-extension, is within your range of motion, helps you maintain a stable pelvis, and encourages proper pedaling technique and optimal muscle recruitment. This is most accurately achieved through observation by a trained eye in conjunction with rider awareness.
http://www.fitwerx.com/most-common-fitting-misconceptions>
Did your fitting include any of these things in this video?
http://masterbikefitters.com/rider-first-fitting-video
Finally, when you picked up your bike did your fitter put the bike on the trainer and make adjustmentments to your saddle, handlebars, etc. Did he look at the angles of your hips and knees? My fitter spent at least 45 min. doing these things after my bike was set up.
Sounds like you got a sizing, not a fitting. If what you got was free, then you got what you paid for.
There certainly have been lots of great suggestions here, but I will also say that we(forum users) do NOT know the entire situation/conversation. That unfortunately is something that is lost through email/forum.
What I will say is this, this forum is great for giving suggestions for anyone, regardless of ability level. But in terms of fitting, it's pretty hard to do that by simply looking at a picture.Getting a fit is a great idea, but that knowledge has to be considered with each and every one of us. It is not as simple as looking at numbers and leaving it at that. There's also the converastion that happens between the person buying the bike, and the fitter... which is information we do not have.
My suggestion is to let Artaresia take these suggestions back to the shop with her, and let the two of them figure out what is comfortable. Whether that's another frame or more adjustments, is something that quite frankly is between the shop and Artaresia. Second guessing here on this forum without all of the information is simply making a decision without all of the facts.:rolleyes:
Heck, when I got my low-end $300 hybrid, the guy who actually designed the bicycle spent a bunch of time dialing it in for me, no charge.Quote:
Originally Posted by Kathi
When I would take it in for tune-ups and such, he'd notice if the saddle had come down a little and whatnot and fix it.
That's why I posted the articles from the organization. To help her understand the goal of the services she received and what she needs to ask for. Only she can determine if the quality of service the shop provided was what she expected.Quote:
Originally Posted by ridebikeme
And when I bought my Aegis the guy I bought it from also spent a lot of time dialing it in, except, he was setting me up like the average riders he worked with. He would tell me, "keep riding, you'll get used to it". Including my fitting at another shop, it cost me about $700 to fix the mistakes he made.Quote:
Originally Posted by BC2COCyclist