Neutral Position question

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Originally Posted by Catrin

When I finally managed to get the weight on my pedals and not my hands I did feel much more stable

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A further step: Relax your grip on the handlebar. Form a loop around the bar by touching the tip of your thumb to the tip(s) of your other fingers. At this point, you've encircled the handlebar, so it isn't going to go anywhere even though you're not really holding it. Now stand up on the pedals and try not to contact the handlebar with your hands/fingers. At this point you've really gone into a neutral position. This is useful in letting the bike roll over bumps however it wants to.

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Originally Posted by Catrin

When I finally managed to get the weight on my pedals and not my hands I did feel much more stable - even if it did seem to take more leg strength than I realized to do it. I was able to relax my upper body a tad.

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I've been thinking about this - your need for leg strength implies that you're not standing up far enough. You should lift up till just short of locking your knees.

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Originally Posted by laura*

I've been thinking about this - your need for leg strength implies that you're not standing up far enough. You should lift up till just short of locking your knees.

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I finally got here tonight on my Gunnar - it was anti-climatic actually ;) I do clip in on the Gunnar so that helps my confidence - and made certain to do it on FLAT road rather than downhill. After all, the first part of the Clinic will be on flat pavement... I found it works better for me to have my left foot forward and my dominant foot in the back - interesting. It did feel much better than just hovering over the saddle by a couple of inches.

At some point I need to get the Jamis out and practice the same thing on the actual mountain bike - even if it is "only" on pavement.

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Originally Posted by laura*

Now stand up on the pedals and try not to contact the handlebar with your hands/fingers. At this point you've really gone into a neutral position. This is useful in letting the bike roll over bumps however it wants to.

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May sound stupid but - is this true? I always understood "neutral" position as evenly distributed weight on back and front wheel, with "relaxed" legs and arms. I guess the legs will always take the major part of the body weight, but I put some pressure on my arms and try not to be "too far back" or only on my feet.
Maybe I was doing it all wrong?

It's not static. Some of what is being described are drills to go through so that you can get the feel of it.

Another tip. Don't think too much. Get a picture in your head of what you are trying to do, then do it. Splitting hairs will make one crazy at this point.

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Originally Posted by Irulan

It's not static. Some of what is being described are drills to go through so that you can get the feel of it.

Another tip. Don't think too much. Get a picture in your head of what you are trying to do, then do it. Splitting hairs will make one crazy at this point.

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Yes, I am trying to not over-think this process. This is good practice for me so everything isn't brand new on the day of the clinic.

I practice a drill very similar to this, if not the same thing. I started doing it because I noticed how fatigued my legs would get during my first few mntn bike rides of the season--not on climbs, but when descending. Weird.

I practice descending over and over again, rotating which foot is in the front position--both at an equal level. I like being able to rotate which leg is in front, it gives me more positions on the trail and helps with overall fatigue. I also practice less pressure on the handlebars while doing this, as you described. I've seen a noticeable improvement.

Still practicing this on the Gunnar - it isn't a mountain bike but since the frame is basically a rigid mountain frame it seems to make sense - and I can ride it on the road. (sure, I can the Jamis as well, but it is so SLOW on pavement!)

Tonight I think I actually got in the full position, was able to relax my hands and not hold on the bars with a death grip :) Of course it doesn't last too long - I just hold it until my speed starts dropping then I drop back to the saddle. Now it is time to practice with having either foot forward, Knotted's earlier advice on this is well taken.

At least I won't have any clipless falls on the Jamis at the Clinic - which is more than I can say for my ride tonight! I was over-thinking how I was going to stop and just forgot I was still attached to the bike - and it was too late when I realized it. Oh well, it isn't as if there aren't other slow motion falls in my future :o

Trying to talk myself out of the expense of purchasing the Lizard Skins for the Clinic, but I suppose that it would be stupid for a pure newbie to go to her first mtn bike clinic with BMX pedals with LOTS of pins and not have shin guards... It would be nice if my legs had a chance to heal from dog bites, pedal slap, and clipless fall ;)