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I'm in Wellington, but a born & bred Sydneysider. I have found riding in Wellington mostly great. I've felt safer than I imagined & found drivers to be mainly polite. May have something to do with the crazy roads where patience is requierd whether you are giving way to a bike or another car.
:D
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We did a two week self-supported tour on the South Island of NZ a few years ago. Here's a link to my trip travelogue:
http://www.teamestrogen.com/adventures/nz.asp
This was my second trip cycling in NZ. The first one was mostly on the North Island.
Susan