Saddle Fit: Tests, Tips, and Tricks
I thought it might be handy to start a thread of the various saddle fit stuff we know; gather it all together in one easy-to-find spot. :D
The Cut-Out Test
Sit on the forward half of a wooden chair while wearing only undies. Keep your back straight, hinge at your hips and fold forward until you can rest your elbows on your knees. (you are making a triangle of your thighs, upper arms, and straight torso)
If your girly-bits feel smooshed into the chair and uncomfortable, you might need a cut out. If the wooden chair is dramatically more comfortable than your saddle, you might need a wider-at-the-cantle saddle or a less padded saddle.
Leveling a Brooks (or similar leather saddle)
Start with a Brooks by leveling the NOSE, not the entire saddle.
The cantle (the bit at the back) will rise slightly higher than the forepart of the saddle.
Don't forget there is a cantle plate under the rear of the saddle. When you sit on the leather, it hammocks under your butt. You end up sinking a bit lower at the slightly higher rear of the saddle, essentially bringing the hammocking bit down to about the same approximate height as the nose, BUT ONLY WHILE YOU ARE ON IT.
If you level the saddle from tip-to-tail instead of at the nose only, you may end up with some pain in front.
Squeaking and creaking Brooks
First check all the obvious suspects: loose clamp, squeaking springs (if you've got 'em), creaking frame joints under the cantle.
Then check the not-so-obvious nose end. All that hardware at the tensioning bolt can creak. And the real odd bit to check is the half-ball and socket joint (yes, there is one) at the very front of the saddle. The easiest way I've found to oil that joint is to squirt oil on it from the back half. That is the cause of probably 99.999% of the creaking of my B67.
Nose creaks can propagate through the frame and sound like they are absolutely positively no-doubt-about-it coming from the back of the frame. Don't forget to check the nose!