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Hi Everyone, I'm New To Riding And I Have A Budget Of Around 1,600
For A Road Bike, I Well Be Moving To Hawaii Next Year And Would Like To Know What Bike You Would Recommmend For There? I Have Been Looking At Trek 2100 W And The Gaint Trc Or The Ocr Please Help!spending Less Money Would Make Me Happy But, I Don't Wan't To Feel Like I Need To Upgrade In The Near Fucture.
I'm not sure why it's significant that you'll be moving to Hawaii with your bike--a road bike is a road bike, no matter where you go. If you think you'll want to ride on dirt roads and trails, you want to think about something other than a road bike.
Having said that, it sounds like you have some definite ideas of which bikes you're interested in, so my best advice is for you to go to a bike shop and try them all out--see which one feels best to you. It's a very personal decision.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bad JuJu
JuJu said it and said it well :)
Ride all the bikes and see what you like. I care more about a bike feeling right and fitting me correctly than some specific widget, gruppo, or other.
I think you will know after some test rides - one bike will almost surely stand out.
smittyjo,
The most important thing about buying a bike is to get one that fits you well. The two frame measurements that are most important are the seat tube length and the top tube length. The first thing a bike store employee will have you do is to stand over the bike and see how much clearance there is between your crotch and the top tube. If the seat tube is too long, you won't have much (or any) clearance. Generally, you should have 1-2" of clearance. But remember that this is a very general rule of thumb.
Don't ignore the top tube length. If the top tube is too long, you will feel stretched out and experience neck & shoulder pain. If the top tube is too short, you'll feel cramped.
Once you have found a bike that fits you, your bike shop should work with you on fine tuning the fit. This involves setting the seat height and fore/aft placement, and the stem height and length.
You may have heard of Women's Specific Design bikes. Basically, they have shorter top tubes relative to seat tube length, because women typically have shorter torsos relative to leg length as compare to men of the same height.
Once you've found frames that fit you, you need to figure out the type of frame material you prefer and that is in your price range. The main choices are carbon fiber, steel, aluminum, and titanium. Each has different ride qualities, and it becomes a personal preference. Generally, aluminum is a stiffer ride, so many aluminum bikes come with carbon forks and seat stays to help dampen the road shock.
Components (brakes, derailleurs, etc.) are another item that will affect price. Shimano and Campagnolo make most of the component sets that come on road bikes. The more expensive component sets are lighter weight and have better finishes. It pays to test ride different bikes with different component sets so you can determine your preference. Is the Shimano Ultegra set worth $x more than Shimano 105? Only you can answer that question, since it's your money, and you're the one who's going to be using the components.
As far as bikes for Hawaii goes, I think any bike you're looking at would work equally well in Hawaii.
Try lots of different bikes in your price range!
Happy shopping!
-- Melissa
Both my husband and I ride the Specialized Roubaix and we absolutely love them!!!! We only buy Specialized (MTN, road, tri, and cross) so of course we are bias to Specialized, but you asked for suggestions :D :D :D
I bought the Elite, which is one of the lower end models and it rides beautifully!!!! Of course my DH's S-works rides nicer, but I wouldn't trade mine in for anything. If you want to take a look, here is a link to their website. I previously owned a Felt F90 (aluminum frame) and the change to the roubiax (carbon frame) was definitely obvious both from a comfort and speed perspective.
http://www.specialized.com/bc/SBCBkM...?sid=06Roubaix
I really hate bumpy roads and unfortunately, you can't avoid it, but the roubaix makes it a little more tolerable. You can read the history of the bike on the website to better explain. My roubiax takes good care of me and my wrists (I have always had wrist problems) and I plan on keeping her for a long time.
E-mail me if you have anymore questions. Like I said, I am definitely Specialized bias, but hopefully this helps you in your voyage of buying a new bike. Happy bike shopping!!!
Roshelle from Milwaukee:cool: :cool:
http://wisconsinbetties.blogspot.com/
Juju,Quote:
Originally Posted by Bad JuJu
The reason that I mentioned my move to Hawaii is that I've heard that bikes are set up differently for hill riding than they are for flat terrain. I'm not sure if it is just a matter of set up or the actual frame geometry. Since most of my riding will be through the mountains, I thought I would ask.
Interesting! I've never heard this before--bikes being built up differently for riding hilly roads or riding flat roads. But I'm no expert, so just because I've never heard it doesn't mean it isn't true.:DQuote:
Originally Posted by smittyjo
Maybe someone else, who knows something about this difference, can chime in. Anybody?
I wish I knew what the differences were! I live in the hills of tennessee. I don't think I've ridden more than a few feet in a flat!
I just got my Giant OCR C3 last week and love her. They are 20% off in August so you are running out of time in that regard. When the wrench was tuning her up for me, he said this is a last-a-lifetime bike.
My igorant 2 cents...
While shopping around for bikes and overhearing all sorts of conversations.. I have heard that people do have a stable of bikes. Some they prefer for flats or pure speed and some that they prefer for hill climbing. I think it has something to do with the stiffness in the rear triangle or maybe with the whole frame.
Maybe because as you climb and you're standing, there's more torque on the frame (going out on a limb here) than if you were just pushing hard to go faster on flatland.
Hmm.. I wonder if this is less of an issue for women since we're typically lighter and just don't put that much force onto our bikes typically. I can see someone like Lance who's all muscle or somoene who's just a big guy who needs more resistance when they're pushing.
anyway,, this is just RD's hypothesis with nothing based on real knowledge.
Oh and I agree with everyone else.. ride, ride ride.. one will speak to you...Oh shoot somebody in another forum had a great quote... see if I can find it
Ah.. found it..
They'll all make a bike you can ride.
Most of them will make a bike that will fit you.
Some of them will be lighter than others.
A few will make the gals in your Tuesday night group drool.
One will speak to your soul. Buy that one.
One of the obvious things would be gearing; lower gearing to make hill climbing easier. It's been pointed out to me that changing out a cassette is pretty easy meaning you could have one with lower gearing for hills and another with higher gearing for flats and speed. From what I can see it's an easy, 5 minute task to do the switch (see link) I know some of the girls here have done it.Quote:
Originally Posted by Bad JuJu
A second possibility is that you probably wouldn't want a bike with a longer wheel base; those are mostly designed for comfort on the flats.
As I was midway up a hill on my ride this morning, and thinking how nice it is to have granny gears, I smacked my head and uttered a big "duh-uh." :rolleyes: Of course that's it--gearing! If you're going to be climbing major hills, you want to think seriously about your gearing. As MDHillSlug pointed out, the gearing on most bikes can be changed, though it's not something I've done myself. You should definitely (1) learn a little bit about gearing, and (2) talk to the bike salesperson about getting the right gearing for you. (But first educate yourself so you won't be steered wrong by someone just trying to unload a particular bike.)Quote:
Originally Posted by MDHillSlug
I'm not sure about the longer wheelbase issue. Touring bikes have longer wheelbases and they're generally meant for at least some climbing. You DO want a nice, light frame though, so you're not carrying any more ounces/lbs than necessary up those hills.:D
While pro's and racers may have different bike set-ups for mountain riding/events, I don't know many of the rest of us, mere mortals who do.
I mean beyond the obvious, which would be a different gearing/cassette set-up, what else are you going to do differently?
Granted as light a bike as possible is ideal but then there is a pretty linear relationship between cost of a bike and weight....more $$$ = less weight, mostly.
I will be test riding a OCR 3 tomorrow and a Trek 2100. I just can't wait to get my bike and start riding. It's my b-day weekend and I really want to find a bike.I realize it just might not happen this weekend, but I'm hoping.Thanks to everyone for your input,Quote:
Originally Posted by SouthernBelle
Have fun test-riding and good luck finding YOUR bike!