beginner mtb question-

Hi ladies-- I have a newbie question or two about mountain biking: Why would you change the seat height (such as examples of conditions and whether you have the saddle lower or higher for it, and why)? Also, I've been reading some pros and cons about going clipless, and wonder what you all thought?

I've been doing road rides (on a trek1000 w/LOOK clipless) for about a year now, and feel very comfy with it, and now some friends are trying to get me to try trails, too. So... somebody lent me an old GT hardtail w/platforms on it, and I've been experimenting a bit on easy trails. I was told that having the saddle lower (compared to the trek) was better for trails, but didn't really understand why. I just felt like I was wasting effort from a too low saddle... I also REALLY miss what feels like the stability of the clipless, but I'm also often glad I'm not clipped in while learning. I read this thread:

http://forums.mtbr.com/showthread.ph...forms+clipless

and I feel even more indecisive now, lol. --- anyway, any thoughts or advice would help!

Thank you!

You might find more technical riding easier to handle at first with a slightly lower seat height. Also, I've seen some people lower their seat height when riding very steep downhills. But if you feel comfortable and confident at your normal seat height, I see no reason to change it.

(Removed wrong info on where knee hurts re: saddle height)

I would also recommend clipless pedals. You need your foot to stay on the pedal no matter what. You have a ton more power, which you will need for going over things, climbing, etc. Don't worry, if you crash, (_when_ you crash) most likely your feet will come out with no thought or effort on your part. Also, it will quickly become second nature to unclip either side if you have to. What you _really_ don't want is your foot slipping off when you are aplying a lot of power.

I've got a GT Lightning hardtail hand-me-down hand-me-down, which is a lovely bike. Right now she has city tires on, which are smooth but wider but traction-y. Great for running around places I don't want to take my road bike, but don't want to get out the full suspension clunker. (I'm going to he** for calling my Titus that...) What a comfy little bike. Fits me (5'2") like a glove, and my 6'4" BF was doing tri's on her for years before we could buy him a road bike! And who knows who she belonged to before that; BF bought her used...

Nanci

Also a newcomer to mtb, I'd like to hear answers on this, too. When I purchased my mtb, the shop did a cleat fitting with the installation of clipless pedals. The resulting position seems to duplicate my road fit in terms of saddle height, but I often wonder about this. It feels efficient, but I am inclined to try lowering the saddle by an inch or so while learning bunnyhops and the like. I hear some folks like to lower the saddle for descents, simply to make getting behind the bike easier, but I don't foresee this being as big an issue for me.

I have yet to log much actual trail time, having purchased the bike in the dead of winter, but I kind of came to the opinion that I should go clipless from the start on the mtb (already clipless on the road) to make it second nature to me. I have SPD pedals set to the lowest tension, and they have enough of a platform that I can do a half-in/half-out stance if I get too nervous about a section of terrain.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Nanci

I read a cool thing about seat height this week. You know how if your knees hurt, you're supposed to change the seat height, right? But how do you know which way to go, higher or lower? I read that if your knee hurts in the back, raise the seat. If your knee hurts in the front, lower the seat. (My usual information book, Long Distance Cycling.)

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What? This is the opposite of everything I've read. See Bicycling Medicine by Arnie Baker, MD, page 119-120.

Otherwise, everything else, yes. A lower saddle height can give you more control and a feeling of stability, especially as you learn to descend. Be careful you don't lower the saddle too much because it will be tough to climb.

Keep your set where it feels comfy, and for God's Sake go clipless. I made the switch on my mtb bike this summer, and it was the best biking decision that I ever made. Once I got used to them, I had so much more power.

One thing. I have multi-directional release cleats. It is a 20 dollar item. It allows your foot to release no matter how you pull against the pedal. So it gave me more confidence.

Yee Haaa!!!!! I love mountain biking!!!!!

You lower your seat for descents. It allows you to pull your body off the saddle and to get behind the seat. On steep descents you might even rest your stomach on the saddle, butt way over the back wheel. If the seat is high, this is hard to do. Also, when climbing up steep hills you typically push your butt back on the saddle and lower your back and arms and if your seat is too high this is difficult to do (your legs would be too stretched out). Seat positioning on a mountain bike is way different than a road bike. You do alot of moving around on a mountain bike less on a road.

'cause I'm alittle lazy I usually just ride with my seat alittle on the lower than higher side so I don't have to stop and adjust on descents but many people will stop and push the seat down. Now if you find yourself just doing flat trail, you shouldn't have a worry.

PS: I like clipless pedal but I realize some people, for the comfort level like a plain platform. Don't use a cage and strap - you will have trouble getting out if you do. Good pedals to consider are Time Z Control (my pedal) and Crank Mallets... both have a nice platform you can ride on top of if things get iffy and you need to bail...

(I knew I shouldn't go by memory...)

I quote from Long Distance Cycling:

But in terms of knee problems, two points are worth emphasizing here. First, a saddle that's too low creates excessive knee bend at the top of the pedal stroke. This can result in strain or damage to the patella tendon. Second, a saddle that's too high creates excessive leg extension, which can put undue stress on the tendons and ligaments behind the knee. Hence, Andy Pruitt's simple maxim: If your knee hurts in front, raise the saddle. If it hurts in back, lower the saddle. In addition, work to develop a smooth pedaling style. Ragged leg action increases the strain on tendons.

Sorry...

You were probably just hitting the Valentine chocolates a little hard.;)

Only reason this is so ingrained is my creaky crunchy kneecaps. You should hear snap and me walk down a set of stairs together. It's like a chorus of rusted frogs.

No, actually I hit the Converstion Hearts a little hard...

I am having a lovely Valentine's Day evening alone with Mr. Bird, watching Wild Boyz and drinking one of the three shi*iest bottles of wine ever, left over from Sunday, just to get rid of it. I had cheese and crackers for dinner. Would I like some whine with that cheese? You bet!!

I have weird knees. They never both hurt at once. Then it's traveling pain, sometimes the side, sometimes the back, you never know. Usually on short rides, then I worry about it on long rides, but it never appears. I don't know what's going on, ever, so I just leave my saddle alone.

Nanci

I'd never done clipless until I bought my latest bike, which came with SPDs. Wouldn't dream of going back now. Climbing is so much easier, especially those times when you find yourself in not quite the right gear and have to stand - you can kind of pull yourself up (erm, that's a bit of a lousy explanation :rolleyes:).

As far as saddle height goes, I think, as mentioned, the reasoning for lowering it is to make it easier to get off the saddle when necessary. If you're not downhilling, you probably won't need to lower the saddle very much in comparison to your road bike, and once you've settled on a comfortable height, you may never adjust it again. Bike geometry and saddle width (it's quite a bit easier to get off the back of a narrower saddle) are going to affect how far you need to lower the saddle, so there's no way of saying exactly how much you might need to lower it - just get out there and experiment until you find what works for you.

Happy riding! :)