MTBing for dummies

IE, me, since the upgrade ate my last thread. :rolleyes:

I'm just starting the mountain bike research--my first priority is a new road bike, since there are roads everywhere. I've made up my mind that I want a hardtail with middle-of-the-road components--I want something decent that I can grow into if I like it (and be able to sell if I don't), and I won't be able to do that with a full-suspension frame. (And for what I want to do, I think that's overkill anyway.)
I'm not looking to do anything too technical, as I'm totally uncoordinated.

So, 26er vs 29er? I'm tall enough (just under 5'7" with long legs) that I can stand over a 29er. I went to a shop (Trek, Jamis) to look around today. He recommended a 29er for its ability to roll over obstacles more easily and roll faster. But how does the ability to climb compare? What about wheel durability?

Recommendations for bikes to look at? It seems like frame material is less of an issue for mountain bikes, apart from the weight.

BTW: I have a Camelbak already, though I might want a bigger one eventually. Long-fingered gloves...Does anyone know if Pearl Izumi still makes the Gel-vent gloves in a long-fingered version?

I've been told that cornering with a 29er can be a bit slower than with a 26er, but I've no idea if that is true or not. I've a Jamis and love it dearly, so I will put in a good word for Jamis. I actually test rode a Jamis Durango before buying my FS Dakar XC Comp because the geometry was quite similar to the Dakar.

I don't know much about hardtails so I can't advise, but have fun in your search!

The guy at the shop did mention the cornering issues with a 29er vs 26. I'd be interested to hear from someone who's ridden both to see what they prefer.

They didn't have much in the way of Jamis MTBs (but I tried out a steel road bike), just Trek. But I did look at what I think was a Trek Marlin WSD from 2012. They seem to have discontinued this (and the Mamba WSD) in favor of the Cali, which is now their only WSD 29er. Weird.

I've never ridden a 29er, so I can't speak to the differences. Conventional wisdom suggests that 26ers are easier to maneuver on tight, twisty singletrack, so I think it might help to know about the trails in your area. Don't limit yourself to WSD bikes by the way, especially if standover is not a concern. In looking at componentry, pay attention to the fork. Some bikes are definitely speced better than others in this regard at any given price point. Read reviews and look at the weight of the fork.

For me, the added help climbing outweighs the more difficult cornering in favor of the 29er. But if you can, demo both - decide what you think.

26 and 29 ride differently, but both are great at what they do and neither one is better than the other. It's just personal preference. I like the 29er because it puts me up higher for better visibility and ability to roll over stuff like roots. They climb well. 26ers are more nimble and turn faster. 29ers can turn corners well, you just have to get used to it's different cornering.

Fork, fork and fork. Better the fork, the more comfortable you can make the ride and adjust to your surroundings. You want one that you can adjust the rebound (how fast you bounce back up) and the suspension. The lower end models usually have Suntour forks. They are heavy and have minimal adjustments. My understanding is that air forks are better than coil. I've never owned a fork with air so I wouldn't know. Obviously you don't need to start out with a TOL fork, just something mid range. I think the Recon is the start of the better forks out there.

I think one thing you might fine--or at least I've found--is that it's getting harder to find well speced HT 26ers. Most of the bigger manufacturers still offer them, but they're entry-level or just above entry-level IMO. If you want a nicely speced bike, you end up having to either build up a 26er frame yourself or buy a FS bike (either 26er or 29er) or a 29er (either HT or FS).

As for forks, there are advantages to each. Coil forks are harder to set up and fine tune, but often easier to maintain. For lighter riders, i.e., those under 140 lbs, they can often be too stuff. Air forks can be harder to maintain and are generally more expensive. But they're also lighter and easier to fine tune for riders of all sizes.

I think that the cornering thing greatly depends on the geometry of the 29er. My FS 26er corners better than my Salsa 29er, but my Salsa isn't designed to be a corner carver. It's an all-day kind of frame, and I knew that when I bought it. Wider bars and a shorter stem help with its cornering. OTOH, the Niner Jet RDO that I demo'ed cornered like it was its job. That thing flew through turns. Both are good bikes, but they have very different geometries.... (On a semi-related note, I'll probably end up selling the FS 26er to help finance and make space for a FS 29er.)

Ride lots of bikes. IMO, it's the only way to start forming preferences. Test rides at shops, borrowing friends bikes, anything....

I read a great post over on mtbr (in the Beginner's section) that talked about a couple of guys who took a couple of Wal-mart bikes out on the trail. The WM bikes did everything they could wish for. What matters most is you get out there, even if it means starting with a bike that is not all the rage.

When I first went out a few years ago I went out on a circa 1990 GT heavy steel frame "mountain bike" that was wayyyy to big for me, but I loved that it was too big for me because it made me feel more confident. I just crashed into logs with that thing. It only had 26 tires but because the frame was big I felt taller.

Then I went and bought a used Specialized rockhopper 26er a couple of years ago and it did not really improve my abilities any. I'm just closer to the ground when I fall!

I hesitate to "move up" to a 29er because I really thing my 26er does a great job with cornering and climbing, and that's most of the battle on my local trails (which are rooty, pricker-bush laden twisty singletrack.) The one thing a 29er can do better? Going over stone walls and big drop offs. I won't even attempt those. But, I'm still a beginner.

Sometimes I wish I had the old GT back, though. I felt pretty fearless with that big guy.

Ask your LBS if they can put one together for you. I had a LBS assemble for me a starter MTB from a team kit he had laying around when I lived on the east coast in 2009 - my very first bike. The frame (Giant Rincon) is basically nothing more than a parts holder. Like you said, MTB frames are heavy - disc brakes add weight. RockShox front suspension, hardtail. Real basic bike. Few things I added that I really like are the pedals and lockout suspension button on handlebars. The remote lockout is so useful, easy to access with a quick push of the thumb. This way when I'm climbing on something a little rockier, my energy is less dissipated. It was such a nice feature the LBS added that I didn't know enough to appreciate it until I got out and rode. I also added some Shimano dual sided clipless/clip pedals and these have been great for more tricky terrain, especially as a beginner MTBiker. You're more experienced a rider so you probably won't need this.

The shop charged me $1500 and it's held up as a solid MTB. I've rode on some slightly more technical terrain than I was comfortable with both here in the US and in Australia with it. I just had a professional Retul fitter analyze the fit and my form on it and he said it was set up correctly for me. I looked into reselling it at one point to put toward my road bike purchase but what I would get for it is not enough for me to let it go. It's a keeper. I tried a 29er at one point and I didn't like the feel, probably mostly because I'm short. I just didn't feel confident on it. I like being lower to the ground on my MTB. Less distance to take a fall, tuck and roll too. ;)

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Originally Posted by Owlie

IE, me, since the upgrade ate my last thread. :rolleyes:

I'm just starting the mountain bike research--my first priority is a new road bike, since there are roads everywhere. I've made up my mind that I want a hardtail with middle-of-the-road components--I want something decent that I can grow into if I like it (and be able to sell if I don't), and I won't be able to do that with a full-suspension frame. (And for what I want to do, I think that's overkill anyway.)
I'm not looking to do anything too technical, as I'm totally uncoordinated.

So, 26er vs 29er? I'm tall enough (just under 5'7" with long legs) that I can stand over a 29er. I went to a shop (Trek, Jamis) to look around today. He recommended a 29er for its ability to roll over obstacles more easily and roll faster. But how does the ability to climb compare? What about wheel durability?

Recommendations for bikes to look at? It seems like frame material is less of an issue for mountain bikes, apart from the weight.

BTW: I have a Camelbak already, though I might want a bigger one eventually. Long-fingered gloves...Does anyone know if Pearl Izumi still makes the Gel-vent gloves in a long-fingered version?

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on the full suspension versus hard tail- the far more skilled than I lunatics I ride with claim every one should start on a hard tail..........(:

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Originally Posted by tealtreak

on the full suspension versus hard tail- the far more skilled than I lunatics I ride with claim every one should start on a hard tail..........(:

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There are as many opinions about this as there are mountain bikers :)

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Originally Posted by tealtreak

on the full suspension versus hard tail- the far more skilled than I lunatics I ride with claim every one should start on a hard tail..........(:

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I agree totally.

Irulan - I love your new avatar - what fun!

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Originally Posted by tealtreak

on the full suspension versus hard tail- the far more skilled than I lunatics I ride with claim every one should start on a hard tail..........(:

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..the reason is: in general, you will gain better bike handling skills by riding a hard tail. You will learn to incorporate "body english" for balance and maneuvering. Starting out on a FS can make you a lazy rider in that since the bike is so absorptive of bouncing, trail irregularities, rocks and so on, you never learn to properly use your body as part of the suspension. IE, the bike is not a sofa to just sit on.