Adjusting stem height - Specialized Ruby

I have a new Specialized Ruby Elite, and although it fits me like a dream, I’d like to experiment with lowering the stem a bit. Unfortunately, I have no experience with Aheadsets and spacers. So I’m guessing that this is how I go about lowering the stem:
-Remove the top cap and the stem,
-Remove a spacer (or possibly 2 spacers),
-Replace the stem,
-Put the just-removed spacer(s) on top of the stem,
-Put the top cap above the spacers,
-At this point, I’m unsure about whether I should tighten the top cap or the stem first. Which is it? And, correct me if I’m wrong, but I shouldn’t have to do anything to the expander that Specialized uses inside their carbon fiber forks – right?

I’d appreciate any guidance, because I sure don’t want to screw this up. Thanks.

Jean

Just curious- can the shop you bought the bike from do it for you?

Tighten the top cap first, then the stem. Don't tighten the top cap too much (or too little) though. And you should know how to correctly tighten your stem upon reinstalling it. If it were me, I'd ask for a demo from my shop's bike mechanic.

I'm heading out the door at the moment, but I wanted to also suggest doing a search on Youtube for a tutorial. It's not hard; you just have to understand what to look for in terms of how tight to go with the top cap so that your headset isn't so tight that it binds or so loose that it has too much play. From there, it's a question of getting tightened correctly. I wish I wasn't in such a rush or I'd try to describe it in detail.

Have you ever adjusted bearings before? It's pretty simple, but it's probably best to have someone show you the first time, because you don't want to get it wrong, and it's hard to describe the way they feel. You can use the actual service manual specifications, but that means disconnecting all the cables and housings, and that's a PITA.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Hi Ho Silver

-At this point, I’m unsure about whether I should tighten the top cap or the stem first. Which is it?

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Tighten the top cap first. Its sole purpose for existing is to help assemble the stem onto the steerer. Once the stem is clamped onto the steerer, the top cap does nothing (other than cover the hole).

OakLeaf - I've always done my own bike maintenance (unless it requires highly specialized tools) and have adjusted old style headsets before, but I have never worked on an aheadset.

Laura* - I think I got it now, the top cap establishes the pressure on the bearings (ie, the headset bearing adjustment) and the stem maintains that setting. Thanks.

Another unknown for me (having never dealt with this kinda of setup before) is whether I have to do anything to the Specialized's expander plug inside the steerer tube. I assume not, since I will only be lowering the stem a bit and the stem would still be clamping on carbon fiber steerer tube that is supported internally by the expander plug.

Jean

The expander plug for a threadless headset doesn't go anywhere unless you're replacing the headset. It's just an anchor for your headset adjuster bolt.

Make sure you put a torque wrench on the stem bolts.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by OakLeaf

The expander plug for a threadless headset doesn't go anywhere unless you're replacing the headset. It's just an anchor for your headset adjuster bolt.

Make sure you put a torque wrench on the stem bolts.

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Got it - expander stays where it currently is. Hope my old old old torque wrench is accurate enough (it is calibrated in increments of 25 inch-pounds ). Guess I'll have to go out and find some metric hex bits for it.

Thanks for all the info!

Jean

P.S. I just love these TE forums ...so many helpful women here! :D

Most modern stems have their torque setting in newton meters marked near the bolts, and there are online conversion sites where you can get the Nm to inch lbs converted. Yea the steerer tube is carbon fiber and it's not pretty to crush it with too much clamping force on those stem bolts.

The stem on my Ruby also has it's own adjustment and yours probably does also- there is an inner sleeve inside the stem hole area that rotates, changing the angle of the stem. You can also 'flip' the stem upside-down, giving you four choices total without changing the spacer stack.

As for the top-cap/bearing adjustment, you want to tighten it enough so the slop is taken up and the fork is not wobbly but not so tight as to bind the bearings. I use a strip of velcro to keep the front brake squeezed, and tighten the bolt lightly snug. Then, with my fingers lightly at the junction of the fork and head-tube, I rock the bike forward and back-feeling for the top of the fork rocking against the bottom of the headtube. If there is play, I tighten the cap bolt a little. I want to stop once that rocking play is gone, but the steering from side to side is smooth and not stiff or grinding.

A general rule of thumb, is to have at least one spacer under the stem, and once you find the right spot, one thin spacer above the stem.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by tzvia

Most modern stems have their torque setting in newton meters marked near the bolts, and there are online conversion sites where you can get the Nm to inch lbs converted. Yea the steerer tube is carbon fiber and it's not pretty to crush it with too much clamping force on those stem bolts.

The stem on my Ruby also has it's own adjustment and yours probably does also- there is an inner sleeve inside the stem hole area that rotates, changing the angle of the stem. You can also 'flip' the stem upside-down, giving you four choices total without changing the spacer stack.

As for the top-cap/bearing adjustment, you want to tighten it enough so the slop is taken up and the fork is not wobbly but not so tight as to bind the bearings. I use a strip of velcro to keep the front brake squeezed, and tighten the bolt lightly snug. Then, with my fingers lightly at the junction of the fork and head-tube, I rock the bike forward and back-feeling for the top of the fork rocking against the bottom of the headtube. If there is play, I tighten the cap bolt a little. I want to stop once that rocking play is gone, but the steering from side to side is smooth and not stiff or grinding.

A general rule of thumb, is to have at least one spacer under the stem, and once you find the right spot, one thin spacer above the stem.

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RE: stem angle - It was kinda hard for me to understand what Specialized was trying to accomplish with the shims/sleeves until I checked out their tech doc, and then it became clear. Given that I want to lower the stem a bit (just to see how it feels), the stock shims already provide the lowest stem height with the stem in the normal (ie, not flipped) position. Flipping the stem would result in too radical a change for my purposes.

RE: rule of thumb - I was not aware of this. I'll keep it in mind as I experiment. Thanks.


Jean