Three questions about bike shopping

Does it make sense to go to a fitter first? Manhattan is not the greatest place for test rides.

If it does make sense, how do I find a fitter? The only way I know is calling a shop, and I assume a fitter employed by a shop would naturally promote the brands the shop sells.

Finally, I'm not finding the bike's weight listed on many manufacturer's specs. A lighter bike is one of the main things I want. I like trips that involve some subway/train travel, and that means stairs. With my day's supplies and the 8.8 pound chain lock, I have to pay attention to weight. Am I overlooking something obvious?

I thought bike shopping would be fun, but it isn't.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by PamNY

Does it make sense to go to a fitter first? Manhattan is not the greatest place for test rides.

If it does make sense, how do I find a fitter? The only way I know is calling a shop, and I assume a fitter employed by a shop would naturally promote the brands the shop sells.

Finally, I'm not finding the bike's weight listed on many manufacturer's specs. A lighter bike is one of the main things I want. I like trips that involve some subway/train travel, and that means stairs. With my day's supplies and the 8.8 pound chain lock, I have to pay attention to weight. Am I overlooking something obvious?

I thought bike shopping would be fun, but it isn't.

---

I am by no means an expert, but I did just go through the whole buying process so since no one else has said anything I'll give my two cents.

You're going to have to test ride the bike at some point. I know that being in a city makes that kind of inconvenient, but the bike store probably has a specific route they've found is fairly safe and a good test of the bike for you. We live in Boise but ended up buying our bikes in San Francisco. There were bike lanes and a route that suggested that wasn't totally traffic-y and had some hills to try. I would just ask the bike stores you are looking at.

Most bike fitters I know of are definitely associated with a bike store. I'm sure there are some independent ones, but most stores just hire a fitter kind of as a contractor. The Specialized dealer here has a whole separate studio just for fitting. Like you pointed out though, they fit you, and then recommend bikes from the brands they carry.

Most reputable bike stores should have at least a couple knowledgeable employees who by looking at you, and finding out about what you want in a bike, can narrow you down to a couple of bikes...which you then would need to test to rule some out.

I probably test rode 8-10 different bikes at a few different stores before I decided. That's just kind of how you tell. Even though there were bikes the stores swore up and down I would love, I didn't necessarily. It's all about the feel. A much worse option would be having them put the different bikes on a trainer to see how they feel, but obviously that is in no way similar to a ride.

If it's an option, maybe go out of the city and find some bike stores that carry the brands you're looking at. You can ride them there on less crowded roads, get a feel for them, and then buy at your LBS.

As to your last question, that information is usually on the manufacturer's website, not sure what bikes you're looking at or why you're having a problem finding it. If nothing else, the bike store can hang the bike on a scale and find out for you.

In summary of my comments above, I personally wouldn't waste my money on a fitter, because you're going to have to test ride the different bike brands anyway.

I chose a shop first, and went from there.

I went into a few shops and told them what I wanted -- a road bike for doing long rides, so it had to fit me well, with a specific budget in mind. I chose the shop that gave the answer I liked best, which was that they would first measure me using their fit kit, then would recommend a couple of bikes in my budget range. At the time, that shop sold Treks and Giants, and I wound up with a Trek. We've made many adjustments in the fit since then (this was in 2002) but overall I've been happy with the bike. Most important, I'm very happy with their service.

What kind of bike are you shopping for? A fast road bike? A hybrid commuter? A mountain bike to go downhilling?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Grog

What kind of bike are you shopping for? A fast road bike? A hybrid commuter? A mountain bike to go downhilling?

---

I'm not sure. Figuring that out will be part of the shopping process, I guess. I've had a hybrid (a heavy one) for two years and ride a good bit. I should know by now exactly what bike I need, but I don't. I thought reading this forum would help me clarify, but it's had the opposite effect. I'm just more confused.

I'm trying to focus on what I want to do with the bike and go from there. Mostly I ride in the city, but I want to do some suburban/country trips of 30-40 miles. I don't have a car so that means train travel and stairs, which is why I'm focusing on weight right now.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by PamNY

I'm trying to focus on what I want to do with the bike and go from there. Mostly I ride in the city, but I want to do some suburban/country trips of 30-40 miles. I don't have a car so that means train travel and stairs, which is why I'm focusing on weight right now.

---

You are right, that's the most important question: what do you want to do with it. And, importantly: do you want to carry stuff on your bike? How much?

I assume from what you say that you will ride mostly roads and perhaps dirt/gravel trails, but nothing too exotic.

And then there is the budget thing...

If it was me, the answers to these questions would narrow down the bikes I would potentially be interested in quite a bit. Then it's a matter of choosing a shop to deal with. In my experience, which is limited as far as buying bikes goes (alas!), you don't get fitted into thin air. You need to actually sit on potential bikes and try them outside, just roughly adjusting things (saddle height mainly, trying one size and then a size up or down). Once you find one or two or three that feel about right, then you explore in greater depth with (hopefully) qualified staff if the fit can be dialed in for you. So, answering the question from your initial post, I don't think it really makes sense to go to a fitter first (unless you're about to drop $5K on a custom bike).

As for bike choice, here's my two cents: my guess based on what you've said so far is that you'll either want a sportsy hybrid (like the Trek fx series, available in a broad range of price and components) or a light-touring bike (drop bars). That's assuming you want to carry things (and also add fenders). If you don't want to carry anything on your bike aside from whatever goes in your saddle bag, then you're in the realm of total road bikes. The touring or road bikes are likely to be quite a bit lighter than the hybrid bikes, but they ride quite differently. You need to try both.

I hope these thoughts, however disorganized, help a little bit.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Grog

I hope these thoughts, however disorganized, help a little bit.

---

Yes, it helps a lot. I was just about to delve into the difference in road and touring bikes, but I carry quite a bit on the bike for my birdwatching trips, and I might do credit card touring -- so researching touring bikes is on my agenda now. Thanks very much for your reply.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by PamNY

Yes, it helps a lot. I was just about to delve into the difference in road and touring bikes, but I carry quite a bit on the bike for my birdwatching trips, and I might do credit card touring -- so researching touring bikes is on my agenda now. Thanks very much for your reply.

---

Some further notes:

Hybrid bikes
Loosely refers to bikes with flat bars, although there are subtleties regarding frame geometry that are beyond me. 700c wheels is typical. Can be more upright ("comfort") or more sporty riding position.
Usually running bigger tires for easier handling on gravel trails.
Usually easy to fit a rear rack on. I never saw one with a front rack but I guess it can be done.
Some models have disk brakes.
Some models can be very heavy due to added suspension at the fork and seat, which I personally see as useless and cumbersome, but to each their own. Others are quite lean with carbon fork and lighter tubing.
You can sort of tell what kind of buyer the manufacturer had in mind when you look at the saddle...
Typically aluminum but there are other options.
Typically in the $300 to $1200 range.

Road bikes
This could be hotly debated I'm sure, but commonly refers to bikes with drop bars, a somewhat lighter frame, 700 or 650 wheels. Tire size varies depending on the bike's purpose: generally speaking, racing bikes will take very small tires (700X23) while touring bikes will accommodate 700X35 (for all-terrain riding and comfort) with fenders, rack, etc.
Can be of many varieties, the vocabulary of which is not agreed on: racing (focused on speed, handling, and efficiency), club (similar to racing but more relaxed and comfortable), touring (longer wheel base to accommodate the cargo), (cyclo)cross (higher bottom bracker to go over obstacles more easily), etc.
Made of steel, aluminum, carbon, titanium, bamboo (not kidding!)... sky's the limit, depending on your budget. :)

This being said...
I do my credit-card, not-too-long-distance touring on my hybrid bike (Trek 7.2fx) because it's my only bike with a rack, and it's comfortable enough for up to 2-hour rides, as long as I don't do that every day. It's probably about 10 pounds heavier than my road bike, but once I'm loaded with full panniers who cares? It's reasonably good quality, so when I pedal it actually transfers my energy to the wheels and I go forward. I am currently working on getting a steel bike for light touring, but it's really a luxury more than a necessity considering what's in my stable... although it will be very nice to have the drop bars for long-distance riding.

Some members of my club go touring on heavy mountain bikes. They don't seem to be phased by it. (However, they probably don't go up and down stairs as often as you do.)

Folding bikes - which also come in many varieties - are also an option and some can be light weight.

Be aware that weight is very relative. My husband's racing Cervélo bike is about 15 pounds, but also more expensive than all of our other bikes together (and we have quite a few). Some people pay big $$$ to shave just grams off their bike. At 25-30 lbs, including accessories but not panniers, you have a very reasonable hybrid. For reference, a typical Walmart bike would be over 40 lbs. Weight matters a lot on hills, but I think the big difference from one bike to another is efficiency of energy transmission. I have a cheap aluminum hybrid that just eats up all of the power I put through the pedals. It's maddening! On my road bike with high-grade components and wheels, I just think about going forward and it's already gone!

Just go out there and try some bikes, both hybrid and road, both within your budget and beyond. See what happens!

Have fun! Bike shopping can be fun.

Very helpful! Thank you, Grog.

Check out http://signaturecycles.com/document/111627
They are excellent bike fitters. You don't have to purchase a bike from them and they can help you figure out what type of bike would be best for your needs.

Quote:

---

Level Two Fit

The Level Two Fit is for determining what Custom or Stock frame fits you best by using the Serotta Sizecycle. It will ultimately determine the sizes and locations of all your components as they relate to fit and performance. It is a 2-2.5 hour process that starts with the Level One Fit system. The Serotta Sizecycle is an infinitely adjustable bicycle fitting tool that will allow you to experience an unlimited range of bicycle fits that will assist us in determining your proper frame and component measurements. The Sizecycle will provide us with the critical target coordinates that we then manipulate with proprietary frame geometry software that will give us your perfect frame geometry and component measurements for a custom bike. We then can input the data of any of your stock manufacturers’ frame choices and determine what frame size and component options would work best to come closest to your perfect fit coordinates.

In doing this, Signature Cycles provides a valuable service to those who are buying a stock frame.

By assuring that correct frame and components are purchased at the outset, the fitting fee itself is typically recouped immediately. That is to say that by buying the closest to "perfect fit" stock frame along with the appropriate corrective components, you will not have to repurchase the same components later in order to bring the parameters of the bicycle fit within acceptable limits. Such necessary secondary purchases can easily be a large percentage of your bicycle's original purchase price.

Elements addressed during the fitting are: correct length crank arm, seatpost, and seat; the length and degree of stem along with the correct number of spacers. Care is also given to the correct handlebar reach and width. Without a considered and formal fitting procedure these elements are never adequately addressed by "off the shelf" bicycle purchases.

---

Helpful thread. I have a mountain bike that I have put smooth tires on and I really like it. But my top speed is not that great (avg 14 mph). While I have no interest in racing, mph does equal distance traveled in one hour and I'd like to extend my range with a faster bike, so I am thinking road bike.

I bike in KS mostly on paved roads and (medium sized) city streets. I would like to bike further and do some extended rides.

I really hear what the above poster said about riding bikes to try them out. My DH got all excited about a recumbent bike and so I rode it. It was nice but it did not make my heart go pitter-pat.

The thing that makes me the most nervous is adjusting to the forward and down handlebars on a road bike, so I'd be interested to hear from others about that.

My current bike is probably older than my 18 y/o son--and it has small levers for derailleurs and classic brakes on the handlebars. I understand there is some new stuff there. Any preferences or thoughts about that?

Another thing that might be helpful is to bring your current bike with you as you bike shop. That way, the shop can see how you're set up already, and you can tell them what you like and dislike about your bike, so they won't be starting from scratch.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by PamNY

Yes, it helps a lot. I was just about to delve into the difference in road and touring bikes, but I carry quite a bit on the bike for my birdwatching trips, and I might do credit card touring -- so researching touring bikes is on my agenda now. Thanks very much for your reply.

---

Also not that touring bikes do not have to have road bars. I switched out the road bars on my Surly Long Haul Trucker for riser mountain bars and am very happy with it. We will see how my hands feel after a long day's riding - but so far so good - though I've yet to exceed 3.5 hours on the bike.

A lot of us love the Surly LHT, the Jamis Aurora and the Trek 420(?). The smaller sizes aren't that heavy, they are steel and ride beautifully. I think Cannondale makes an aluminum touring bike? It might be lighter in weight over the steel.

For light/credit-card touring you might want to consider a cross-bike. I considered this when I started looking for a touring bike as they will take rear racks.