adjusting headset height

I have a Giant OCR 1 which has a threaded headset. (I'm not sure why it has a threaded headset, it's a 2005 road bike and according to my web search manufacturers switched to unthreaded in the late 90s.....)
I am trying to raise the headset but can't find instructions on how to do this. Any ideas?

I'm in the process of trying to find a new position that will help with the soreness I get in my neck and lower back. I'm really enjoying being able to make my own adjustments to the bike, it makes the bike less daunting not to mention it's incredibly fun. but please let me know if you think this is something that should be done at a bike shop. Thanks.

It's the stem you want to raise. The headset is the bearing assembly.

Are you positive it's threaded? If so, instead of the steerer tube extending up beyond the head tube, and the stem clamping onto that, with a threaded headset, none of the steerer tube will be visible. The stem is an angled piece, the part of the stem that's visible above the headset and steerer tube will be a single piece, with one bolt at the top and one bolt in front to clamp the handlebars. If it's really threaded, then changing the height is easy. Loosen the bolt at the top of the stem, put it where you want it, re-tighten. Just like seatposts, a stem for a threaded headset will have a maximum height marked; make sure you don't go beyond that. (Sheldon suggests that most complete bikes left the factory with the stem at max height though - so you may still have to replace it - which is really a huge PITA with a threaded headset since you have to take the tape and lever off one side of the bars.)

http://www.sheldonbrown.com/images/stems333-220.gif

For comparison, here's a picture of the steerer tube and stem for a threadless headset. (This setup is a little odd, in that the builder has used a seatpost clamp instead of spacers to secure the steerer tube, but there's no difference in the stem.)

http://www.sheldonbrown.com/images/iro-584-09.jpg

Images from, and more discussion at, http://www.sheldonbrown.com/handsup.html

Oakleaf,

Thanks a lot for your response. I've been searching online for a good picture of my bike and don't see it. when I bought the bike they told me it was a comfort road bike, I think it might have a set up like the cypress giant bike. I wonder if that's the way the bike came or if that was an option...anyway, I can adjust the handlebars/stem so I can sit up fairly straight on this bike if I want to.

I'm sure it's threaded. But when I loosened the top bolt nothing would move. I tried loosening the lock nut but that didn't work either. But maybe it's stuck..

I have adjusted my own headset before, but I have a reversable flip stem that comes on the Specialized bikes, so it was fairly easy. I wanted to mention though, that I actually got the most relief from my shoulder and neck pain from tilting my handlebars down just a little. It felt like I got a bit more stretch and my shoulders could naturally relax when the place where you rest your hands was tilted forward a little. It also allowed me to reach my brake levers more easily. It is a very simple adjustment and worth trying before you take your headset apart.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by rain

Oakleaf,
I'm sure it's threaded. But when I loosened the top bolt nothing would move. I tried loosening the lock nut but that didn't work either. But maybe it's stuck..

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If you loosen the stem bolt and nothing happens but the stem bolt is sticking up above the stem, just take a hammer and tap the bolt. It will fall down and the lug nut at the bottom will get unstuck.

I'm still a bit too tentative when I try to work on the bike so I'll try the hammer.

I'm sure I'll need to post again about position --- I've been trying lots of adjustments to try to get the handlebars in the right position. yesterday I tilted them just a bit higher and that alleviated most of the aches, but it compromised my ability to pedal as hard as I wanted to unless I was headed uphill...so I still need to play with it.

thanks!

If you don't have a soft (dead blow) hammer (rubber mallet), put a small piece of wood on top of the stem bolt (or whatever you happen to be hitting with a metal hammer to loosen it). That'll soften the blow as well as reduce the chances of flying metal chips.

As Oakleaf mentioned, make sure that you are leaving the set of hashmarks on the stem INSIDE the steer tube of the frame... that is for safety reasons. Most bikes do indeed come with it set at its highest setting, so be careful with this.:rolleyes:


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