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I have the tools and books to check the instruction of how to remove the cassette. I also checked BicyleTutor.com before I tried. But with all my effort, I just couldn't unlock it. :(
I need to use my left hand to turn the wrench counterclockwise, but I just can't apply enough force (torque) with my left hand. I asked my male cycling friend, who said it shouldn't be difficult to remove the cassette. :rolleyes: Is it just me? :o
If the locking ring is very tight, you need to have a good (small) angle between the chainwhip and the wrench, I think maybe 30 degrees or so is good to give good torque. A longer wrench will help.
+1 on getting an angle that lets you put maximum torque on both tools. 30° sounds reasonable, or maybe a little wider to let you get your hands where they need to be. Experiment with the chain whip in several different positions relative to the wrench/socket handle.
How long of a handle are you putting on the lockring tool? Try a breaker bar of at least 12", longer if you have one, or your longest all-sixteenths (adjustable wrench).
And, tangentially, one inch for the Park Tool Shimano cassette tool? WTF is up with one inch when ALL the other parts and tools are metric? Are other brands, or Park Campy cassette tools, also one inch? Like, I had a bunch of SAE tools from when I used to ride a Harley... and the fasteners on the garden tractor are SAE as well... I had 1-1/4", 1-1/8," 15/16", but I never, ever had a call for a one inch socket. The first cassette I replaced I was able to make do putting a deep well 27 mm air-wrench socket on my torque wrench :rolleyes: - definitely not an ideal situation.
+1 for the leverage recommendation. We have a massive pair of vice-grips that get pressed into service for tricky cassette removals.
Also, does your cassette tool have the little "guidepost" or does it have a hole in the center? If it has the hole, using your QR to hold the cassette tool in place can help keep everything together and allow you to torque on it a little more.
Good luck!
Thanks for the tips.
My cassette remover does have a "guidepost".
The handle I used is only 20 cm long (7.87"). I better get a longer one.
I check that the max torque to lock the cassette is 40Nm. Based on my calculation, it means that I need to apply 200N force (~ 20.4 kg weight!) :eek:
Definitely get the big handle - mine is massive and allows the force to unlock itQuote:
Originally Posted by wildeny
If you've got a metal pipe, you can slip it over the end of your handle to get more leverage.Quote:
Originally Posted by wildeny
Yesterday I got the adjustable wrench with a 30-cm handle (quite heavy one).
I still couldn't turn the remover. http://www.en.kolobok.us/smiles/madhouse/dash2.gif :o
I asked a mechanic in my office to help me. Finally the cassette was off. (I think the lbs did tighten it too much.)
I practiced a little bit on installing and removing the cassette. Then the mechanic & I disassembled the hub (I also wanted to learn it). Initially we just wanted to clean the inside and put all the parts back, but then he found one skewer was damaged.
I talked to the lbs about my damaged part (I brought those parts to them*), but the lbs said I have to give them the complete rear wheel (with everything installed back) to them so that they can return it to the manufacturer. :rolleyes: (they don't like people DIY :( )
PS I only have bicycles to go around so I can't carry a wheel with me on bike.
good for you for finally getting the cassette off. It's really not supposed to be hard, so it's good to install and remove a couple of times yourself so that you get a feel for it.
If only the skewer was damaged it's bizarre that they want the whole wheel back! If I have the English terminology right, it's hardly a part of the wheel at all, but an interchangeable part like the tire.
Oh well, good luck. If you have a backpack you can ride with a wheel strapped to it without too much trouble.
I checked Sheldon's site and learned the name of that part: cone.
http://lh5.ggpht.com/_O8pum8JiUxw/St...013-162757.JPG
I wonder whether this is due to the poor adjustment applied by the manufacture or the over-tightness on the quick release skewers by the lbs. :confused:
The first time when I tried to take out my wheels, it took me lots of effort to bend the handle of the QR.
It should take a lot of effort to open and close the QR. You don't want it coming open spontaneously, or easily when you brush up against something. The rule I usually hear is that closing the QR should leave a mark on your hand.
Loose bearing assemblies need to be kept in adjustment and re-greased periodically. Generally, the cheaper the assembly, the poorer the tolerances it was built to, and the more fiddling it's going to need. It's definitely possible they were over-tightened at the factory, but it's a lot more likely that the locknut came loose over time. How many miles on the hubs? How many years (years would only matter if it's getting up over 5-ish; most grease will degrade over time, but slowly). Did they have a lot of miles in heavy rain, or is it possible you or someone else washed the bike with pressurized water and got water into the hubs?
I would expect the mfr would want the whole wheels back to see for themselves the type of damage to the cones (pitting, scoring, something else) and also whether the cups were also damaged. And also, as you say, because if it's going to be a warranty claim, the LBS doesn't want the mfr claiming that you disassembled it and overtightened it yourself.
I also learn that rule of closing QR in Richard Ballantine's book.
I bought this bike in the end of Jan in 2009 and only have put 2100 km (~ 1300 miles) on it. I didn't ride it in the rain nor washed it with water (I only wrapped it with a cloth)Quote:
Originally Posted by OakLeaf
This wheelset (Alx-200) is not in Alex's category. I guess it should be very low-end, but it shouldn't be worn out so soon, right? (Besides, I'm a light rider) :confused:
Before I took this apart, I just bought a hand-built wheelset (1380g in total). Wow, what a big difference, especially on climbing :D For the record, my bike is Fuji Finest RC.
I had a Fuji for a while - those stock Alex wheels are seriously cheap. I don't think I had that bike for more than 2 years before selling it and just before I did, I decided to service the rear hub because it was starting to grind a bit. I got it all apart no problems, but when I re-greased every thing and put it back together, it was so worn that there was no way I could adjust the cones to be tight enough to not wobble without making them bind. I just replaced the rear wheel before selling it. The stock one wasn't worth fixing. OTOH, the ultegra hub I have on my rain bike has survived its first rim and a ton of nasty dirty riding without even feeling gritty.
I had a set of those alex wheels (I don't know it's the same model, I could go check, but whatever, they were cheap alex wheels...) on a bike that I just couldn't seem to go that fast on it, kept calling it my slow bike & my slow wheels. The bf thought it was all in my head.
I replaced the wheels, and gave him the rear one to use on his trainer as a trainer wheel... For whatever reason (he probably noticed it was slow), he took about the rear hub and found it completely full of grit. I really hadn't put much mileage on those wheels. I then used them on a commuter I built for a while, but I crashed and killed the rear wheel somehow. I still use it as a trainer wheel.