grip shift?

Anyone tried and liked or disliked grip shifters? I do not even know if they will fit on my Wylder bars and replacing those is not an option. Also I can get a great deal on a Damselfly, but want a callisto. Thanks for your opinion.

I thought the grip shifters were great. I had them on the mtn bike previous to the one I'm riding now and they were sooo much better than the rapid-fire. I've thought about putting them on the current bike, but I just can't bring myself to cannabilize the previous bike for them and my question was can I make them compatible with the Shimano derailleurs on current bike or will I need to go buy the SRAM d's to make it work. I don't know what changes SRAM has implemented re compatibility issues since I bought the shifters (some of the first ones they made.)

On the issue of fitting the Wylder bar, I too, have the Wylder bar. It looks like fit shouldn't be a problem. If you take a close look at the bar without the grips on, you'll notice that the bar bulges back to a standard size just past the grip area. If that still isn't quite right, how about making a shim to take up any extra space between the shifter unit and the bar? Chopping up an old tube would probably work great.

I also have the damselfly saddle. It did take some getting used to, but once I conquered that issue, it's been great. It's so small and thin that I can really move around the bike when off the saddle, especially off the back for steep downhills. I haven't ridden the callisto, so I can't offer a comparison.

Here is some info on compatability. The amy shifters sound cool!
http://www.sram.com/product/shifters/index.asp

I went to grip shift after the jerky Shimano rep pissed me off with attitude, and they're great! Some SRAM is shimano compatible, and some is SRAM on SRAM only so I think you just nead to order the right ones. I had a chronic inflammation problem where the muscles in top of my fore arm were achy as hell where they attach at the elbow from the Rapid fire shifters- the day I went to Grip Shift the problem disappeared. The shifting action feels a little like friction shifters on the front derailleur and that takes a weak or so to get used to, but I love'em. I have small arthritic hands and had to take an exacto knife to the actual twisty part, shave a bit of rubber back, but overall I'd say the whole drivetrain is sweet.
Shimano's compatability hell no replacement part marketing policies really ticked me off, so I went to SRAM on principle when I needed a new drivetrain. To my delight, they seem more interested in fun on a bike than jerking the customer around. Cool, huh? Their chain design is truly superior, with a Master Link that pops open instead of buying a two dollar replacement pin every time you break the chain like the last Shi chain I had.
I'm pleased.

missliz

Okay I am almost ready to switch to Sram. A few more questions first. How are the grips to be set up? I have rode bikes at the LBS that have them, but those are for men and I really did not pay much attention to how they were set up. Do you have to cut your grips? Are your hands supposed to be on the shifters all the time? That is one thing holding me back I love my narrow grips. Also should I go with a whole Sram drive? So many questions, thank you in advance.

Like everything else about bikes, what is salvation for some is poison for others. My HardRock had gripshifters, which seemed to really cause a flare up of ulnar nerve problems (hand & finger numbness that lasted long after the ride). I have not had any problems since I gave that bike to a neighbor kid and got a RockHopper with Shimano shifters. For me I think the problem was the thickness of the twistgrip was pushing more weight onto the base of my hand, or it was just the torque involved in shifting.

I don't know how we are supposed to get around these problems, since my problems didn't start until after I had been riding the bike for a week, which is a little longer than most shops allow for a test ride. Most rental bikes are not new models, and often don't come in a full range of sizes.

Cycling is most definately a NOT a "one size or style fits all" activity.

Narrow is relative, and since I've never seen your bike or used Wylder bars I have no frame of reference. A good mechanic who rides should listen to what you want and be able to tell you what your options are. I can tell you that properly set up, your wrists should be straight and relaxed, thumb and forefinger go around the twisty part to shift as you work the terrain, next two fingers on the brake levers and they should be adjusted so you can reach them easily. the pinky can brake or float, as the levers fit your hand. Your whole hand and wrist should be relaxed. I kept my grips with the new shifters, which are Attack model, recent year but don't know which. The actual rubber ring part that you turn to shift has a groove your fingers sit in, with rubber fins every inch or so for positive grip when it gets wet and grubby out there. Thes fins are what I had to shave back, not completely but I took about half off and now they fit my hand better while still doing the job. And if your mechanic hasn't got you set up for two finger braking, you need somebody who knows what he's doing.
A good mechanic/ salesperson knows all the equipment and should understand which stuff you need if you tell him/her what you want out of it. Those twister rings are replaceable for about ten bucks and if you butcher one modifying it, no biggie. Just ride it as is first, see if it needs tweaking, they're designed for mens hands, then go from there.
Athletes from all sports go after equipment with razorblades and power tools. Those Tour De France riders, they work over shoes in machine shops to correct for knee tracking problems. When I fenced every part of a weapon got a visit fron a grinder or a hacksaw to shorten the grips and then got bent around to train the steel and put a cant on it. Modifying parts isn't that big a deal.
Sram is sweet, and it takes business away from the Shimano monopoly (good thing) and if the shifters are big for your hands after you put some miles on It's easily fixed. Go for it. I replaced a lot of XT and asst. oddball stuff on a Zaskar with the Sachs nine speed drivetrain. It's like butter. If you need to change any brake stuff go with Avid.

missliz

OK, newfssmith is right- not every equipment design is for everyone. So Waterlilli, why do you want to change? Aches and pains? Annoyed by Shimano? Just like 'em better on a freinds bike? Drop us a clue.

missliz

When I spec'd my RockHopper, I wanted Avid Mechanical Brakes in the rear, because I was designing it for winter riding. It was the best decision of that purchase, they work great in the wet and slush, and they are very low maintenence. Teamed with studded tires they are a great confidence builder when you go out to play in the snow with the cars.

I'm using SRAM X.O with a Monkeylite SL bar and when I had the bar cut down to make it more narrow, we had to cut the grips too- no big deal. The grips are fit well enough so I haven't had any problems with the ulnar nerve area either.

As far as the Damselfy vs. Callisto saddle, I like the Callisto better. Tried both and the Callisto is more comfortable, especially when you have to scoot forward for those techy climbs. :)

Good Luck with your stuff!
Kristina

I didn't think you could even GET grip shift anymore... I sure didn't see much when I was bike shopping last year. The ones I've seen must have been lower end, on my kid's bikes, nothing but trouble.

Yeah, that seems to be the case. If you're building up a bike you can select those parts but I think Norco is one of the only companies that has grip shift specced on their bikes. Its too bad b/c alot of people don't get the chance to try out the SRAM X.0 stuff.

The SRAM X.0 setup though, is high end. The rear derailleur has carbon parts and the shifting is more crisp and precise than XT. I haven't tried XTR so, I'm not sure how it would compare to that.