picking out a bike . . .

I thought of some more questions - hope somebody can help out!

Right now, I'm just riding a comfort bike 13 miles at a time. I have a new bike (Trek 7200 - hybrid) on layaway but it's not too late to change my mind. Here's a picture, but I'm buying it locally http://helenscycles.com/itemdetails.cfm?LibId=47536 The handlebars are adjustable - I think they'll go lower. I don't want to be very upright, but I think I want a hybrid bike because I do quite a bit of riding on gravel roads and need something a little more cushy than a road bike. I also need to stay under $500. :o

1. My hand goes numb after about 7 miles. I'm pretty sure it's because my handlebars are too upright and I have to bend my wrists so much and lean weight on them. I'm wondering - will this be a problem with the new bike? What kind of handlebars are the best? The handlebars are the only thing making me hesitant about this bike - does it look overly upright?

2. My big toe also gets numb. Is this a common problem? I have no clue how to go about picking out a good saddle.

3. Do I REALLY have to get bicycle shorts to get rid of the chafing? It's so nice to just go out and ride in yoga pants. Doesn't anybody make panties without a seam in the crotch area? Maybe I should just go commando - but that may be even worse, because the pants have a vertical seam . . . .

Hi StaceySue! I've just very recently experienced everything you're talking about.

I bought my first bike in many years just 3 weeks ago: a Trek 7200 WSD. I kept it two weeks and upgraded to the Trek FX 7.5. The shifting is a bit awkward on the 7200, the grips hurt my hands and it's slower and heavier...BUT.

For what you're going to use the 7200 for, you can't go wrong. The 7200 is simply superb on fine gravel. Today, I went on a 17 mile ride on mostly fine gravel trails. The FX is okay on this surface, but not ideal. I kept thinking throughout my ride that it was too bad I couldn't keep BOTH bikes: the FX for streets and paved trails and the 7200 for the plentiful gravel trails near my home.

As for the hand numbness, I feel your pain. The ulnar nerve gets squashed when your entire weight is on the heel of your hand. Gloves have helped me somewhat. The grips on the FX are better but still not a cure all. I'm working on strengthening my core so I don't lean so hard on the grips. But you're right, an adjustment might help you here.

Like you, I like to wear yoga pants or jeans and resisted the Bike Outfit. However, the FX has no chain guard so that lasted about 5 minutes. And, as much as I went kicking and screaming into REI to find bike capris (I refuse to show my thighs), I am SO GLAD I did. In fact my sit bones are quite attached to the chamois, and thank me every time I get on the bike now.

Your local bike shop (or "lbs" on this board) should help you with a good saddle and proper fit. Your toes should not be going numb!

Welcome! And before you buy the bike, make sure you can trade, return or upgrade should you need to. I tried the Cannondale Adventure and liked it quite a lot as well and that's within your price point. The seat on that bike was super comfortable as well.

I bought with my shop because they were clear that if I didn't like the bike I could return it for a full refund, upgrade, downgrade, whatever within 30 days. I think that's a policy you should go with.

Best of luck and please let us know what you choose!

Thanks for the response, Grace!

I really wish I could afford 2 bikes. I'm having a very hard time making my decision. I live about a mile down a gravel road, so I only have a short distance before I can reach pavement. I like to take my dog on short rides at least every other day - but I could continue to do those rides on the bike I already have (just a beach cruiser) and get a road bike . . . .

Please tell me what made you decide to upgrade to the FX?

I SO do not want to wear bike shorts. I'll have to look up these capris. Do they have loose ones?

I think my by shop does have the 30-day policy.

I think an FX would be fine for a mile of gravel... I'd be worried that if you get the 7200, you're going to want to upgrade it quickly. it doesn't look like a bike that I'd want to ride extended distances on road on. If it's possible, maybe look for a used bike on your local craigslist, it'll make your $500 limit buy more.


As for wrist pain - there's a number of threads about this - get the weight off your wrist, make sure you're not bending your wrist back, ergon grips may help, padded gloves may help, building up your core muscles helps. Handlebars end up being personal preference - but some people on here have switched their trek fx bars to soma sparrow bars or to trekking bars to get more positions. Move your hands about when you ride, don't keep them in one position.

The one saddle that I have that I can ride without short comfortably is the specialized ariel mountain bike saddle (not the sl version), it's pretty cush. It comes in different widths, so if you measure yoru seatbones it may work for you - but saddles are pretty individual - people like different things.

Otherwise I wear bike shorts and I just put real shorts or pants on over them.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Catriona

I think an FX would be fine for a mile of gravel... I'd be worried that if you get the 7200, you're going to want to upgrade it quickly. it doesn't look like a bike that I'd want to ride extended distances on road on. If it's possible, maybe look for a used bike on your local craigslist, it'll make your $500 limit buy more.


As for wrist pain - there's a number of threads about this - get the weight off your wrist, make sure you're not bending your wrist back, ergon grips may help, padded gloves may help, building up your core muscles helps. Handlebars end up being personal preference - but some people on here have switched their trek fx bars to soma sparrow bars or to trekking bars to get more positions. Move your hands about when you ride, don't keep them in one position.

The one saddle that I have that I can ride without short comfortably is the specialized ariel mountain bike saddle (not the sl version), it's pretty cush. It comes in different widths, so if you measure yoru seatbones it may work for you - but saddles are pretty individual - people like different things.

Otherwise I wear bike shorts and I just put real shorts or pants on over them.

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Thanks for all the great information, Catriona.

I'm really glad I put the bike on layaway instead of using my credit card - it's giving me lots of time to think things over. I've been calling around looking for used bikes and one bike shop said somebody had a note up selling a Lamond Reno for $600.00. I imagine by the time I come up with the cash it will be gone - but maybe I can find something similar for $500.

Maybe "l'll put a "wanted" ad on Craigslist.

I don't know anything about bikes - but I've seen those handlbars that curve down and have rods sticking up, so you can ride more upright with your hands on the top of the curve or crouched down with your hands on the bottom of the curve, or put your hands around the rods. I'd like to find something like that.

Of course - if I get a fast bike and bike shorts, I'll probably end up going fast enough that I'll need a helmet . . . . good bike + good shorts + helmet = big bucks, even if I do find a good used bike! Plus - I feel like I'll look silly on a road bike with my butt up in the air. Not that it matters - I'm in much better shape than the average woman my age - but the only people I see riding bikes like that are skin and bones. Wouldn't do wonders for my body image!

I wonder if the 7200 will be enough of a move up from your comfort bike?

PS, I love my trek 7500FX.

I had a lot of problems with my hands going numb and then I got new grips and some gloves and haven't had a problem since. Here's a picture of the new grips I got. I love them!! They totally support the palm of my hand and make longer rides so much easier!

http://roadtobikeacrosskansas.com/im...lebargrips.jpg

You need a helmet, no matter what bike you are riding. Head injuries can happen at any speed. The cheaper ones have to pass the same safety standards as the expensive ones. Please, please buy yourself a helmet.

Don't worry about the body image - I'm usually so sweaty and exhausted after riding my bike, that I really don't care how crappy I look in spandex shorts. I just try to tuck the rolls away so I'm not an absolute assault on some poor bystanders eyes.

It sounds like you probably need to go down to your local bike shops and do a lot of test riding of different types of bikes and really figure out what you want out of a bike - you can get fit on a road bike without having your butt sticking high up in the air. You can ride more upright in a touring fashion.

And you need a helmet ;)

Quote:

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Originally Posted by staceysue

Thanks for all the great information, Catriona.

I'm really glad I put the bike on layaway instead of using my credit card - it's giving me lots of time to think things over. I've been calling around looking for used bikes and one bike shop said somebody had a note up selling a Lamond Reno for $600.00. I imagine by the time I come up with the cash it will be gone - but maybe I can find something similar for $500.

Maybe "l'll put a "wanted" ad on Craigslist.

I don't know anything about bikes - but I've seen those handlbars that curve down and have rods sticking up, so you can ride more upright with your hands on the top of the curve or crouched down with your hands on the bottom of the curve, or put your hands around the rods. I'd like to find something like that.

Of course - if I get a fast bike and bike shorts, I'll probably end up going fast enough that I'll need a helmet . . . . good bike + good shorts + helmet = big bucks, even if I do find a good used bike! Plus - I feel like I'll look silly on a road bike with my butt up in the air. Not that it matters - I'm in much better shape than the average woman my age - but the only people I see riding bikes like that are skin and bones. Wouldn't do wonders for my body image!

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Quote:

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Originally Posted by staceysue

I don't know anything about bikes - but I've seen those handlbars that curve down and have rods sticking up, so you can ride more upright with your hands on the top of the curve or crouched down with your hands on the bottom of the curve, or put your hands around the rods. I'd like to find something like that.

Of course - if I get a fast bike and bike shorts, I'll probably end up going fast enough that I'll need a helmet . . . . good bike + good shorts + helmet = big bucks, even if I do find a good used bike! Plus - I feel like I'll look silly on a road bike with my butt up in the air. Not that it matters - I'm in much better shape than the average woman my age - but the only people I see riding bikes like that are skin and bones. Wouldn't do wonders for my body image!

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Yeah, you need a helmet. They're all safe (if you're in the US, it needs to be certified by the Consumer Product Safety Commission before it can be sold); what the extra $$ buys is coolness--both in number of vents and in styling.

And don't worry about the body image. I think I look silly in spandex (and people think I know what I'm doing), but it's about being comfortable and having fun. I'm not a stick either. If you shop clearances, you can get good stuff for relatively cheap. ;)

Thanks for all the help everybody!

I found a 2006 or 2007 Lemond Reno WSB for $500.00. It's a racing bike. Good price? Good idea? It has aero bars - would that help with the hand numbness? Do you think it would make it the 1 mile on gravel to pavement?

I don't think I want another upright bike. If I'm not going to get a comfort bike, it might as well not be upright. Agree/disagree?

(thanks for the pics of the grips you got, momtohanna)

Quote:

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Originally Posted by staceysue

Thanks for all the help everybody!

I found a 2006 or 2007 Lemond Reno WSB for $500.00. It's a racing bike. Good price? Good idea? It has aero bars - would that help with the hand numbness? Do you think it would make it the 1 mile on gravel to pavement?

I don't think I want another upright bike. If I'm not going to get a comfort bike, it might as well not be upright. Agree/disagree?

(thanks for the pics of the grips you got, momtohanna)

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Hey, it's definitely a good price, you'd be a getting a lot more bike for that much money. IT does have a carbon fork, which should help with some of the hand numbness... Positioning is going to determine the rest of it... I think it's probably a 2006, because lemond didn't make that model in 2007, I think... but trek has taken the lemond archives down and it's hard to tell.
http://www.bikepedia.com/QuickBike/B...%27s&Type=bike

Aerobars are going to help with your hand numbness... but they may give you private part issues instead... at least when I lean forward to get into aerobars, it puts the weight on the front of my saddle and that can be really uncomfortable on a bad saddle.

You could probably put maybe 700x25 tires on the lemond and run them at 90-100 psi to make the ride a bit more comfortable over gravel...


But you really need to just go test ride that bike and take it over some bumpy stuff and see how you think you're going to like it.

Lemonds I think were known for having a more touring geometry - keeping you more upright with a slack seattube angle... (I don't know what they did with the women's specific bikes) So make sure the top tube isn't too long for you or anything.

I first bought a Specialized Globe WSD which looks much like the Trek 7200. It lasted about 3 months before I realized that it would not do what I wanted to do. It was too heavy and too slow to keep up with people on road bikes. But I still was not ready for drop handlebars, etc. I bought a 2008 Specialized Vita, and I love it. It has trigger shifters, which are better than twist shifters. It weighs 22 lbs. instead of 35. I lean slightly forward and have no pressure on my wrists. Depending on the model, it costs between $500-$880. My husband found a used Sirrus (the men's version) on Craigslist for $350.

If you are concerned about gravel, you could have them change the tires to ones with a little more tread. I don't really picture myself outgrowing this bike for a long time. The seat is a Dolce and it is really comfortable.

I also did not want to wear Spandex at first. However, it is so much more comfortable that at this point, I even go to the grocery store in them after riding. However, you can buy some bike shorts, and then put some looser athletic capris over them, and solve your problem. I did that for awhile.

Are tires very expensive? Saddles?

I'm so indecisive. I don't want to have to upgrade again, and I'm pretty sure I would decide to if I got an upright bike. I don't know, though, since I've never even been on a road bike.

Is it really hard to ride a bike with drop handles? Do you have to be more athletic to ride one than you have to be to ride a more upright bike?

I'll test drive it Wednesday.

How can I tell when I'm riding it if it's a good fit or not, seeing as how I've never ridden one and don't know what it's supposed to feel like? How are your body parts supposed to line up when a bike fits you perfectly?

I'm 5'4 and the girl I may be getting it from is 5'3. She said she thought she remembered somebody saying it was 52 cm but she wasn't sure.

I'm wondering if you have to be a skinny minnie to ride in that position? I'm loving the idea of going fast down the hills, with my head down, pretending like I'm flying!

I wonder if she has a used helmet she wants to sell me . . .

You can get road bikes with flat bars. These are generally considered more urban bikes, and are less expensive than equivalent models with drop bars.

If you want to go on more gravel trails than just your first half-mile, you could consider a cyclocross bike. These are designed to do some amount of off-road for cyclocross racing; they also make good urban and long-distance bikes.

The Lemond pages are available by searching the Wayback machine; unfortunately the geometries were in pop-ups, which were not saved. Everything else is there, though. It was really annoying of Trek to pull the pages, when it is useful as an archive.

These are not hard and fast rules, but some typical set-ups:
Stand-over height: 0.5 - 1.5 inches, pulling into your pubic bone. If the top tube is sloped, standover in the middle. This will give you an idea if you are on an appropriate frame. Bikes are measured from the center of the bottom bracket / pedal spindle to either the center tube or top tube of the seatpost (so first you need to figure out which measurement is being used). The bottom bracket height off the ground will also be different for different bike types and manufacturers. I ride a 52 cm Bianchi Volpe cyclocross frame; I was looking at a 52 cm Lemond Poprad (cyclocross), which ended up having a higher bottom bracket, so it was more equivalent to a 54cm bike in most models. Basically, you will fit a range of sizes - mine is about 51-54 cm. Your height doesn't have much to do with it, your leg length does - I am 5'6.5".

Seat height:
* 0.833 x your inseam, measured from bottom bracket to lowest part of saddle. Measure inseam by standing with feet 10" apart, pull a book or T-square held against a wall as hard as you can into your pubic bone, preferably wearing the same clothes you will use for biking.
* Put on the shoes you will use with bike. Put your heels on the pedals and adjust until legs are straight. When you use the ball of your foot, your leg should be bent about 20 degrees.
* Set the seat as high as you can without rocking side to side. Have someone behind you check this.

Saddle position on rails:
* Most people use knee over pedal spindle (KOPS) -- this was thought to be the position that generated the most power, but it actually differs for most people. It should get you in the right ballpark for trying out the bike though.
* KOPS: Level your pedals at 3 o'clock and 9 o'clock, parallel to the ground. Have a friend hold a plumb bob / metal nut tied to a string under your patella, the bony part of your knee. The metal "bob" should hit the pedal spindle.
* Changing the saddle position also changes the height. You will need to iterate on your own bike, it should be close enough for a trial ride you don't need to fiddle with it more.

Reach to bars:
**This is the most important part of fitting!** If the reach is not comfortable, the bike is not right for you. Again, reach varies by manufacturer for a particular height. Try out men's bikes as well, especially if you have long arms. The reach in women's bikes is too short for me; Bianchi has a slightly shorter top tube than average, so I ride a Bianchi men's.
* This is also going to vary the most, depending on what you want to use the bike for, how flexible you are, core strength, etc. Basically you want no more than 40% of your body weight on the front wheel, and you want to use your arms for support as little as possible.
* You should at least be able to hold the top of the bar (parallel to the stem), take your hands off, and not fall forward. Holding onto the drops and not moving forward is even better. This also depends on core strength though, which you can build up.
* A popular measure is having the headset on top of the stem obscuring the hub of the wheel.
* With your hands forward in the drops, your elbows should be about 90 degrees.
* Your arms and body should be about 90 degrees with your hands on the hoods.
* You can change the reach and handlebar height slightly with the stem -- you can get a different length and rise. You can't change the length too much though, or you will change the steering and/or get pedal overlap with the wheel. The change in handlebar height will also be small (unless you are looking at buying new, before the head-tube is cut, or at bikes from the 90s or earlier that have quill stems which are adjustable).

Though, really the best way is to ride a lot of bikes and find the one that has the best feel... similar to trying out running shoes, but for bikes you have to go to a lot of different bike shops to try all the models. This is what I did -- and the Bianchi just felt the best. Now that I know more about bike fit, and using some of the metrics above as well as putting my measurements into "bike fit" sites, it just confirms that I found the right geometry for me, just by "feel." Also, don't feel bad about trying out new bikes at bike shops, even if you plan to buy used - you will also need a relationship with a good bike shop to get accessories, tune-ups, etc. This is where LBS make money... the profit margin on road bikes in particular is extremely small. While trying out bikes, you will also be trying to find the best LBS for you to work with in the future -- starting with bringing in your "new" used bike for its first tune-up! You can also usually get bike fittings at a LBS, about $50 for typical seat height, seat setback, and reach (stem) adjustments.