Do you have a Torque Wrench?

What size bolts do they turn? Which size do you find most useful? Where did you get it?

I'm just looking for a small hand one, inexpensive and low Nm (5-30 or so).

Thanks!

I got one with an adapter head, that fits the Kraftwerk multitool bits. For my carbon parts.

I do, but I have it from working on my cars, so it's a 1/2 in head. I just had to find a hex bit for it to tighten up crank arm bolts, but it was impossible to find in 1/2 in, so had to use and adapter to get to 3/8. I'd suggest a 3/8 beam torque wrench, which you can get at sears, etc for about 20 bucks. I think mine's probably from Pittsburgh tools or Northern Tool & Equipment.

eta: Northern Tool has one (here) that's the nice set it and pull til it clicks type for $40- those ones are much more pleasant to use and easier to store.

We have two - I think, one of the Sears ones like mayanorange talks about and a bigger, heavier one too. Both take interchangable hex bits. The bigger one works for some things, but doesn't have fine enough gradations for a lot of bike uses. (like tightening carbon seat posts/handlebars)

It depends what you want to use it for. Not only how accurate you need it to be, but what the range is. Torque wrenches come in various ranges, and you want to be in the middle of the range for the most accuracy. You also want to use a wrench with an appropriate sized drive for the sockets/fasteners, so that you aren't risking damage to the wrench attachment (if it's too small) or the fastener (if it's too big).

For torquing anything into/onto carbon fiber or aluminum, I'd shell out for a good torque wrench. I have a cheap Craftsman 1/2" drive beam wrench for the rear axle nut on the motorcycle. I have a Snap-On 3/8" drive click wrench for most of the mid-sized fasteners on the bikes and cars. Then I have a Consolidated Devices 1/4" drive click wrench for in-lb fasteners like valve cover bolts and anything on the bici.

A good torque wrench will last you a lifetime and potentially pay for itself many times over in damage prevention. It costs about the same as two pairs of cycling shorts (one pair of expensive shorts!) or two sets of tires.

I think I'll look into a clicking one for my carbon parts in a 3/8" with some hex attachments :) I like the Northern Industrial one :)

Thank you for all your help!

oh - and btw the two wrenches we have work different. The small one has a gauge that you read the torque you are applying on by looking at where the pointer is. The other wrench you dial in the amount of torque you want and then wrench away - you'll feel the wrench "give" when you reach the amount of torque you've dialed in.

So if I get at 3/8" torque wrench, do I need a hex set? What do you have for small bike parts (seat post clamp, stem, brakes, etc)?

Thanks!

Yes the torque wrench is just a wrench, like a rachet ready to accept hex sockets, in this case for your bike, allen type bits.

Unless the wrench comes with hex sockets like this set found at Colorado Cyclist.

If you get the wrench alone, you will need to buy the hex sockets separately - you can buy them individually, and they need to be the same size as the drive of your wrench. ie. 1/4" or 3/8" drive unless you use/need an adapter. 1/2" inch drive will be overkill for just carbon parts. Don't buy too cheap of allen sockets.

The most frequently used sizes I use for carbon seatpost, bars, etc is a 5mm and 6mm allen type socket. Those would be good to start but you may need others. Typically, a torque of around 5 to 6 Nm will be required for small stuff like seatposts and carbon bars.

ETA: typically the recommended torque should say on your carbon bars or seatpost.....

Not only 1/2" drive will be "overkill" for carbon parts, you won't find sockets in 1/2" drive in the sizes you need (4 mm and 5 mm, for handlebar clamps, brifter clamps and seatposts). There's a reason for that, as I said before.

If it's for the bici only, get a 1/4" drive wrench with a range that includes the torque specs you'll need (50-60 in-lbs, 5-6 N-m for the above). Price the sockets (either at Sears or wherever you get the torque wrench) - depending on how many you need, it may be cheaper to buy a whole set, or to just buy the ones you need. Sears will have them either way.

Park Tool has a handy universal torque spec chart that I just happened across.