Bike Transport!

Hi all,

I'm getting a hard-case bike carrier for xmas :D and I'm going to use it to bring my bike with me on a trip to FL to visit my parents. :) The bike carrier is great because it's a larger size (which is fine) and you only need to take the stem (w/ bars), seatpost, pedals, and wheels off.

Here is my question...for removing and re-installing the stem. I know this is a little bit of a tricky procedure and I don't want to screw anything up. :rolleyes: I have the Zinn book for bike maintenance but the descriptions are too lengthy and so involved that I get confused by the end. :(

For anybody who knows what they're doing, can you please offer help? What is the correct sequence to 1) remove a stem, 2) what you do with the cap and screw during transport, 3) and then re-install the stem. I know a little big of grease is involved - I'll get a small tube/jug for travelling?

Thank you! I appreciate it. Everything I've read is too confusing and the stem/bearings area is too important to go with a trial and error!! :o

Do you have a threaded headset and quill stem, or a threadless headset where you can remove the handlebars without removing the stem? In either case, removing the stem or handlebars is not difficult. Figuring out how to pack the bars without disconnecting all the cables can be a little challenging.

I agree (of course) with Deb. Try to keep the stem on and just remove the handle bars. The stem really shouldn't have to come off.

If it's a quill stem, then the stem comes off without any impact on the adjustment of the headset. If it's a threadless headset, you should be able to remove the handlebars and leave the stem in place, again without touching the headset adjustment. Are there 4 bolts and a removable section that attach the handlebars to the stem? If so, just undo those 4 bolts. Then you find a way to pack the handlebars close to the top of the fork where all the cables can reach. Sometimes you can loop the bars over the top tube or around one of the wheels.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by DebW

Do you have a threaded headset and quill stem, or a threadless headset where you can remove the handlebars without removing the stem? In either case, removing the stem or handlebars is not difficult. Figuring out how to pack the bars without disconnecting all the cables can be a little challenging.

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Don't remove the cables, just bubble wrap the handle bar's with cables still attached then zip tie to top tube. if there is enough play in your cables. And I agree it depends on what kind of stem?

If you have any carbon parts - bar-stem-seatpost invest in a torque wrench. You don't want accidentally crank down on the anything too hard (most carbon parts I've seen reccommend 5nm) Even if you don't have any carbon parts its a handy thing to have so that you aren't overtightening.

Great replies. Thank you all very much for your feedback and help. *hugs*

I have a threadless headset.
Aluminum Ritchey stem.
http://www.performancebike.com/produ...-NCL-ANGLE.jpg

Carbon bars.
I do not have a torque wrench but have thought about getting one.

That's great advice to just take the bars off. I only hadn't thought of that because I have to have my bars at an exact rotation/angle or else I'm miserable. But I'll just measure from the ground to the tops of the shifters to get an exact spot. But it certainly makes this much easier if I only have to worry about one thing (bar angle) instead of several!

The case is coming in tomorrow so I'll be able to see what room I have to work with and play with different places to have the bars during transport.

Thank you!! :)

I've been looking around online at the case that is to be given to me. I actually found a nice *real* picture on craigslist.com. After all of my questions yesterday I don't even have to touch the front end!

http://www.coloradocyclist.com/img/p...l/triulzdz.jpg

It looks like the bars are off and flipped in that picture. To get the angle the same, just mark the bars with something - lipstick, eyeliner, whatever, so you can easily put them back in the right spot.

Whenever I pack up a bike, I cover every square inch of the frame with pipe insulation foam. Even in a box, things get shifted and start moving around.

Just to follow up with everybody who helped - I packed the case last night because it's going to DHL today after work.

I really had to try and figure out what to do after taking the bars off because my cables are so short and the computer/powertap wires make it even shorter. I had just enough length to get the bars off the stem and rotate them parallel to the fork, tucking one of the bar ends beneath the fork. I just hope the cable doesn't pull too hard on the front break and rip off! :(

It was kind of scary packing my bike for the first time. I only have one to ride and race and do everything!!! :eek: So I hope I did everything okay. The directions weren't all that great to follow either...which didn't help. I also figured that this would have been much much easier either with a work stand or another person. Doing it by myself felt like it take twice as long - especially when it came to putting the lid on and tightening the straps! I was walking on top of it back and forth tightening the 3 belly straps. :D lol

But it really was easy. Most of the time came from figuring out how the heck the bars were going to be situated or which front chainring to keep the chain on or what other items I wanted to put in with the bike (helmet, shoes, tools, etc.). Once I get the hang of it, the packing time should definitely drop a lot.

I wished my bike goodbye this morning when I walked out the door - "okay bike. have a safe trip and see you in Florida! byyyyeeeeee." :D

There are ways to get some cable slack if you need it. Here are some suggestions:

(1) the rear brake cable runs through two cable anchors brazed to the top tube. If there is a split in the brazed-on anchor, you can squeeze the brake calipers together and use the slack to remove the cable from the braze-on.

(2) you can remove the front brake caliper from the fork. Just pad the brake well as you pack it.

(3) maybe remove the computer mount on the hb

(3) if you are going to ship your bike frequently, get cable splitters installed (see http://www.sandsmachine.com/ac_cable.htm) on the rear brake and both derailleur cables. Then you just unscrew the connectors and you've got about 2 ft extra cable slack.

I just disconnected my front brake cable from the caliper when we transported my bike in the car last week. Not a big deal and much simpler than removing the caliper!

The other cables were long enough to let me move the bars parallel with the top tube, straddling the head tube.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by DebW

There are ways to get some cable slack if you need it. Here are some suggestions:

(1) the rear brake cable runs through two cable anchors brazed to the top tube. If there is a split in the brazed-on anchor, you can squeeze the brake calipers together and use the slack to remove the cable from the braze-on.

(2) you can remove the front brake caliper from the fork. Just pad the brake well as you pack it.

(3) maybe remove the computer mount on the hb

(3) if you are going to ship your bike frequently, get cable splitters installed (see http://www.sandsmachine.com/ac_cable.htm) on the rear brake and both derailleur cables. Then you just unscrew the connectors and you've got about 2 ft extra cable slack.

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Great advice. Thank you for your help Deb. :)

Have a great time riding in Florida! All of your questions were answered, but I just wanted to chime in and reassure you that you will LOVE the case....I have used that model for many flights & despite some rough handling (some of which I, unfortunately, witnessed ), my bikes have always arrived unharmed. Plus ... there is a TON of space in that case for gear and souvenirs. Souvenirs, you say? Yes ... many, many bottles of wine fit in that case, even with the bike in there too. Wrap 'em in cycling clothes to keep them from touching the frame :)