Bikie buying question

I currently have a Giant Cypress hybrid. In the spring I hope to have the money saved up to get a road bike. I have been cruising around the different bike websites checking out thier bikes and what components they have.

my problem is i don't know enough about the components and lingo to know which one is better. Example the Specialized Dolce and the Specialized Dolce Elite. The dolce has chainring of 50x42x30t whereas, the elite has 50x39x30t. I assume the elite is better, but am not sure why. Where can I find an book or website that expalins what everything means and how to tell what is better. I went to the Shimano site so i was able to piece together the differnce between these 2 bikes some what, but gosh I am so new to this some eye opening help would be helpful.

Thanks
Shelia

Sheila the difference between those two bikes is more than that one chain ring. Read Sheldon Brown for lots of information about bikes (he's on the web, google him)

There are probably better brakes, better components, lots of things better on the more expensive bike. So they don't break down as much, they run and shift more smoothly, and they weigh less.
I know one thing, the less expensive bike has the same geometry. So if you're feeling tentative, and don't want to spend $$ but you want a bike that fits you, try that bike.
Most of us end up getting a better bike, so good advice is to get the most expensive bike you can possibly afford.

Thanks Mimi!

Yeah I realized that the elite was better across the board. My problem is comparing the dolce to a trek road bike and being able to know this one has more for bang the buck and so forth.

I definately agree with you on trying to get the most bike i can afford so i am not wanting to upgrade again later.

I will check out Sheldon Brown. i know I have read a couple of his things on his website from time to time. I will have to dig deeper.

Thanks so much for replying I appreciate it.

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Originally Posted by bikermomma

My problem is comparing the dolce to a trek road bike and being able to know this one has more for bang the buck and so forth.

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The better one is the one that fits you. You can replace components. Find the bike that fits you and buy the top level component group you can afford. Wheels, shifters and rear derailleur are the most expensive to swap out (and in that order) -- and wheels will make a big impact on the ride quality.

Sheila, as Mimi mentioned, Sheldon Brown's website has a wealth of information. Each major brand of bike componentry, e.g., Shimano, Campy, and SRAM, has its own pecking order, which you can determine from there respective website. As you ascend the pecking order, the components are more expensive, lighter, and arguably perform better. I say, arguably, because the performances differences that the average recreational cyclist will detect between, say, Campy Chorus and Record or Shiman Ultegra and DuraAce are debatable. I'm not saying there aren't differences, only that they may not necessarily warrant the added expense. That said, you will see differences between each company's lower- and higher-end components.

I generally agree with MT that you should try to buy the best bike you can afford--with a few caveats. First, as I've already suggested, I think the average recreational rider can and will be happy with a bike that isn't speced with top-of-the-line components. If you can afford it, then great, but I would resist thinking that a bike with lower-end components won't work for you if that's what you can afford. When budgeting for your bike, remember to factor in the cost of the other things you might want/need for the road bike, e.g., pedals, seat bag, etc. I've repeatedly said over the year and a half since I bought my road bike that the bike ends up being the cheapest part of the sport!

Second, fit and geometry are far more important than whether the bike has, say, a Shimano 105 or Ultegra rear derailleur. You can always upgrade parts--even if for a cost--but there's only so much you can do to change fit. You will ultimately end up with a "better" bike if your pre-buying research includes some things to look for with respect to fit. Be discerning when dealing with the bike shops in your area and try to find one that makes bike fit a priority. Don't assume that just because a shop is in the business of selling bikes that they're in the business of selling only those that that fit their customers. I hate to sound cynical about it, but sadly, I am.

Third, some components are more important than others so look for upgrades where they count the most, e.g., the rear derailleur and wheels. Certain other components/parts are easy enough to improve without breaking the bank. For instance, most of us end up changing out the saddle, so don't get too fixated on what kind of saddle comes standard on the bike. As an another example, better tires can also improve how a bike rides for a minor investment.

Whatever bike you buy, make good use of whatever free or discounted maintenance the bike shop offers you. The truth is that bikes--even those with top-of-the-line parts--need to be tuned now and again. It would also be to your benefit to learn some basic bike maintenance so that you can help keep your bike in good working order for less money. Again, even the most expensive bike won't run as well with a dirty chain.

Good luck, have fun with that and post pictures when you get your new bike!

Thanks Sadie Kate!

Let me ask this to everyone. What makes one chain ring better than another. i know I read somewhere you want one number to be a small as you can get it and the other to be biggest. Something like that. Anyone want to help me shed light on that?

I guess what I want is to read a post where some is recommending this or that upgrade and be able to understand why. And how that upgrade will help. So I will start with one thing at a time and try to figure out the chain ring.

Thanks
Shelia

Go read Sheldon Brown. Your terrain, fitness, desire to expand to other terrains, etc., should play into chain ring choice - but chain rings can be swapped out. Between those two triple cranks, just worry about the bike that fits.

Oh yeah, and indysteel's advice was spot on and much more detailed than mine. The only thing is and it's only opinion is about the component cost. I tend to like more expensive -- to a point. My personal experience is that the higher level components take less adjustment. If you take care of them, they take care of you. But the others certainly function just as well and get you on the road. Again, get the frame that fits and good wheels.

Thanks Indy!

Yeah I know fit is important. That needs to be my number 1 priority. I guess where some of my problems stem is when I went in and bought my hybrid I was looking in the 275-350 dollar price range. I found 2 bikes I liked and felt good. One was $300.00 and one was $375.00. The guy told me in his opinion to go with the 300.00 bike that the 375.00 had nothing that warrented the extra 75.00. Since I know nothing about bikes I was drawn to the 375.00 one because I thought it's a better bike more than likely. I know 75.00 isn't the same as a 400.00 jump, but it made me think more in what does this bike offer over another.

My plan is to go in over the next few months test ride some bikes..find what feels good and is the best fit and the LBS that is the best. Then i want to start the comparitive of what one bike has over another from the ones I like. My price range I figure will be in the $1000.00 range. I am saving to get it. i am a stay at home mom so I don't bring in money. So it is money saved here and there I am socking away for the bike. It may even be next fall before I buy. I don't want to settle so if it takes longer...it takes longer.

Thanks all for your replies.

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Originally Posted by SadieKate

The better one is the one that fits you. You can replace components. Find the bike that fits you and buy the top level component group you can afford.

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This is the best advice.

Find a bike you like the look of, ride it and if you like the feel of it, and the frame fits you, thats is the one for you. Get it professionally fitted in the bike shop.

If your hands feel stretched to the levers - that can be altered
If you don't like the gears available - that can be altered
The only thing you can't change on your bicycle after you buy it is the frame.
Get that right and all eles will fall into place...
:)

Quote:

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Originally Posted by bikermomma

One was $300.00 and one was $375.00. The guy told me in his opinion to go with the 300.00 bike that the 375.00 had nothing that warrented the extra 75.00. Since I know nothing about bikes I was drawn to the 375.00 one because I thought it's a better bike more than likely. I know 75.00 isn't the same as a 400.00 jump, but it made me think more in what does this bike offer over another.

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I know that logic well. I have to admit that I'm seduced by bike bling to some extent. I've learned (because I love researching bike stuff ad nauseum) that some of the added expense of that bling is justified and some of it is just hype. If you do your homework, you can start to get a feel for it, too. I think it's great that the shop where you bought your hybrid was straight with you that the extra $75.00 wasn't justified. Sounds like my kind of a shop.

All that said, some of what we do and buy when it comes to our bikes IS purely emotional. While there's objective logic when buying or building up a bike, at the end of the day, the bike should "speak" to you. Sometimes that means spending a little extra $$$ for no rational reason. Just ask the guys on RoadBikeReview's forums who have 10 bikes in their collection!

The following advice is worth what it cost you ~ FREE! ;)

When you test ride, TRY to test a Jamis Aurora like Elk got. Man I love that bike and would have gotten that over my Trek, but they don't sell them anywhere close to me.

Good luck and enjoy the hunt! That's part of the fun.

I'm not well qualified to comment but from experience I can say that 'fit' is important and I also think it is wise to err on the small side as you can extend reach with a longer stem say 90to 10 or 100-110 but trying to reduce reach back to 80 can cause problems with twitchness. Most bike shops, sadly, still think women have the same reach and flexibility as men so tend to size you according to the other sex. My current bike, a little over 12 months old, is just a touch too small, I'm extended with straight arms when on the hoods and riding in the drops is not comfortable as deep drops and also hard to see the road and yet it's not set up as an agressive style with the stem raised. I guess my advise is to make sure you test a size smaller than people may recommend so you get a 'feel' for the differences in fit.

Also, good deals can be had in bigger centres and you feel great getting a killer deal (I did this) but paing more and buying locally can helps should something go wrong or the bike requires a bit of tweaking due to discomfort. Hard to stomach an extra 400 odd smackers and I loathe buying from somewhere at full price when others will discount but I am likely to do this when I purchase another bike (smaller frame -10mm smaller) in the coming weeks. Just my 2 c
Hope this thread is helping with the background research, cycling is fun when the bike fits and you suffer from no discomfort. I have a mountain bike that fits the bill and whilst 5 years old now it is 'heaven on earth' as far as fit is concerned.

Yup....I love my Jamis Aurora. My journey (short and intense and TE was base camp, BTW) led me pretty quickly to touring bike geometry and gearing because of fit and because I live in very hilly terrain. I have a Specialized hybrid that is pretty great, but it's HARD to ride in the hills.

I rode every "touring" bike I could find: Surly, Salsa, Bianchi, Trek, Seven, Carbondale, and in various sizes. I talked to a bunch of people at alot of different BSs, and when I got on the right size Aurora, all the fit problems of the other bikes just melted away....
The bike I thought I would like the best, the Trek 520, was the one that fit the worst.

So...my advice....and only as a person who just went through the process...is to figure out why you want a road bike (what about your hybrid isn't enough), identify a BUNCH of bikes that may have those qualities and ride all of them.

That is also how I learned about components. What little I know.

It's like grammar, when you need to use it, learning it is easy...As an abstract concept it can be...well...abstract!

The whole thing is tons of fun...I wish you lots. Of fun.

bikermomma, this web site helped me learn a lot about gearing. I think it has the information about chainrings/cogs that you are looking for.
http://home.i1.net/~dwolfe/gerz/howto1.html

I'm in my second year of road riding and as a recreational cyclist I can say that I doubt you (or most recreational riders) can tell the difference between Ultegra and DuraAce components. So I would suggest that you get the best you can afford but don't worry if you can't get the top of the line in whichever brand you choose. Test ride them and I think you'll see this is the case. I'll give a +1 on what everyone else has said about fit. Good luck in your search. I hope you find the perfect bike for YOU.