switching to campy- shifting

Hi- I'm looking for a little advice please! I got a new-to-me bike last week! I'm really excited. Especially because I was looking forward to switching over to the campy drivetrain. The shape of the hoods is really comfy, and the new bike is so quick! My problem is in shifting... I have no problem shifting gears in the back, but in the front, I cannot for the life of me shift into the big ring without at least fifteen minutes of frustrating monkeying with the shifter!!! and to make matters worse, my boyfriend and another good friend (bf rides same campy system, friend rides shimano) both tried it and neither of them had a problem, which means the problem is me! Grrr I was so frustrated :mad: . Their advice was to make sure and push the lever all the way over, because record has extended throw. I felt I was doing that... They thought maybe the combination of the reach still being a bit long (have to change out the stem to make it a bit shorter) and my not having as long of fingers made it harder for me to push the lever all the way over. Has anybody had similar problems? or does anyone have any suggestions on things to try? maybe I just need to look at this a different way? I love this new bike and it frustrates me to no end that when we go to sprint I'm left in the dust because I can't shift into my big ring!!!! (or I'm spinning like a madwoman, lol) Just FYI the front is a triple, and I don't seem to have problems shifting up from the small ring to the middle ring, or shifting down from the big or middle rings...

When I broke my left wrist last year, I had big issues with shifting for a while. My suggestion is to do the shifts in multiple throws. Shift as far as you can the first time then reset and shift again. I used this much of last summer without any damage to the derailleur or my wrist. There are times this year that I've had to do than when my wrist is too weak to shift completely. Hope this helps.

One of the nice things about Campy is that you DON'T have to shift the front in one huge throw.

I break my shifts from 34t to 48t into 2 or 3 smaller throws. It's just as fast once you get used to it, and friendly to womanly hands.

Take it slowly at first, until you figure out how it all works for you.

Pedal slowly (just twirling the pedals without pressure) somewhere flat in your middle ring. Push the lever only as far as your hand can easily and comfortably. Release the lever. (your chain will be rattling in the der cage, but don't worry) Push it again. Release again. If necessary, push again. (if it hasn't shifted all the way yet.)

The best analogy I have is that it's like using a socket wrench.

I had that exact problem with my new Pilot, ended up getting a bar end friction shifter for that side only. Not real happy about that but it works.

Would your recommended shifting method work for Shimano or is that only for Campy?

From what my LBS guys said, it only works for Campy. But I haven't had Shimano shifters in a very long time, so I can't compare.

Perhaps the reach is too long for you, but the other thing can be the cable tension. Granted others can shift without a whole lot of problem, however I've noticed with the guys that they physically push the shifter sometimes where we generally don't. I have used Campy drivetrains since the early 90's and haven't had any issues. One other thing you might try is a teflon coated cable... they are smoother and makes the shifting even easier with less effort. The cables are about $7-$8 and well worth the expense!

Have fun with yur new bike!

Hmmm... I'll try shifting with smaller throws tonight to see if that helps. Come to think of it every time I tried to do it in one big throw-

For the cable tension- the bike had a broken cable & missing barrel adjustor when I got it. I took it to my LBS and they put all new campy cables & housings (whew campy's expensive compared to my trek's shimano sora/tiagra, lol). I took it in after my first ride because I had this same problem, figuring something may just need to be adjusted. The mechanic made some adjustments and I watched him shift through all the gears with no problem... it's only my third ride since getting the new cables. I want to go in and get 'fit' for the bike after next payday... I was thinking of asking them to watch me shift while I'm on the trainer to see if I'm doing something incorrectly. I'll keep the teflon cables in mind for the next set! Thanks!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by zencentury

I had that exact problem with my new Pilot, ended up getting a bar end friction shifter for that side only. Not real happy about that but it works.

Would your recommended shifting method work for Shimano or is that only for Campy?

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Just want to make sure that you know that with Shimano, to get into the big ring, you shift and then shift again. Not sure what it is called(blonde moment here) but it needs that first tap to set it up to shift.

ehirsch83 - Are you referring to "trim"?

archibella -

How's the shifting?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by ehirsch83

Just want to make sure that you know that with Shimano, to get into the big ring, you shift and then shift again. Not sure what it is called(blonde moment here) but it needs that first tap to set it up to shift.

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No I didn't know that!
Kind of like the ratcheting system on Campy shifters but not quite...
Why didn't my LBS guy tell me this-two different shops as a matter of fact.

My guy told me I had to be pedaling at a high enough cadence to catch the ramps. Research on the Shimano site says the ramps and pins are place to be used at the point of least pressure applied to the pedals.

Hmmm.

How is the word "trim' used in a sentence?

As for the teflon cables mentioned earlier, I was told they were used mainly on mountain bikes to keep dirt off and that the teflon coating tended to wear away.

The teflon cables can be used on any bike... remember that most road bikes have their shift cables run down under the bottom bracket where they catch all kinds of grit. I have several customers that are using teflon cables, adn I have them on all three of my road bikes... one set of the cables has been in for three years! With that said, I have NOT noticed the teflon wearing off as someone mentioned.... perhaps you're thinking of the old gore tex cables?? AS I mentioned previously, they are definitely worth the investment!

As for all of yuor new cables, it sounds to me that the cable tension might be set a tad too tight. When you adjust a bike on the workstand it may be fine, but while riding and putting pressure on it, it can act totally different! Make sure that yourshop rides the bike and not simply adjusts it while on the stand.

good Luck!