What is the best bike lock to get? I see quite of few of you use your bike to commute, run errands. Thanks Nancy
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What is the best bike lock to get? I see quite of few of you use your bike to commute, run errands. Thanks Nancy
I use a kryptonite evolution (mini) for the frame and a cable lock for wheels and through the frame again. It used to be said that most thieves didn't carry the tools to cut both. But i *really* don't want my bikes to be stolen...so I'm a little nuts!
I have a big fat cable lock made by kryptonite. i feel it is adequate for
time in a restaurant with a view of my bike.
and when we go in groups, we lock all the bikes together with multiple cable locks. a logistical nightmare for any wouldbe thief, especially since we are in view of the bikes!
So is a cable lock better than a 'u-lock'???
I had a kryptonite cable lock ,and it was cut nicely ,and left on my car, after they stole my bike. I just bought a U lock ,but when I commute I lock in it a room that you need a key to get in. The U lock is very heavy. I don't trust any locks.
no. the best is having one of each.Quote:
Originally Posted by surgtech1956
cable locks are better only because they are longer and give you more
flexibility as to where to attach your bike.
Surg - go to a bike shop or REI and take a look at the On Guard cable-and-U-lock combo deals. They come with 5 keys (4 regular, one with a built in flashlight), good for those of us (ME) who lose things.
They have a Pay-For-Your-Bike guarantee if your bike gets stolen. (as long as you meet certain criteria)
They aren't expensive. I think I paid $30 for mine.
The package comes with detailed instructions for how to lock up the bike.
http://www.rei.com/product/721699?vcat=REI_SEARCH If you scroll down the REI page you will see a link on the left hand side for "How to Choose a Bike Lock." Click it. It explains the different kinds of locks, what they are good for, and how to lock up a bike.
Other lock companies sell combos, too. This is just the one I have. (BTW, it was cheaper at the LBS)
I have a masterlock street cuff. MTBR has some negative reviews re: its bicability, but I haven't been able to bic mine. Or papermate it. Or (insert pen barrel name here) it. Doesn't mean it's impossible... just difficult. they also say the jointed connector between the cuffs is a weak point- but I fail to see how. Having decent experience w/ bolt cutters, I would say it would take at least the ones with 2' arms to have enough leverage to break the connector or shackle arms. That said, I have routinely locked my bikes up with it in a parking garage by my work and they're... well... still there!
If you get it, I'd recommend slipping one shackle thru the triangle in the back, thru the rear wheel, locking to it, then locking to whatever you're locking to. This protects the connector with the triangle and wheel, and also your rear wheel. For added security, pop your front wheel off and thread the cuff through that, too. This way, leverage 'attacks' can't be used w/o seriously compromising your bike or the wheels, and boltcutters can't be used very easily, either.
All that said, though, if they *really* want it... they'll find a way.
It's always seemed ironic to me that, the lighter the bike, the heavier the lock has to be--because the more expensive the bike, the more attractive to thieves. I heard a guy in a bike shop say to a guy who had just bought a carbon fiber bike and was asking for a lock, "A bike of that quality can't be safely locked--if you insist on buying a lock for that bike, I won't sell you the bike." A little (!) controlling on his part, but we get the point. I use an OnGuard U-lock with a cable for the wheels, but even with that, I never leave my bike locked on the street unless I'm within view of it. LIke others in this thread, I leave a heavy lock in the bike cage in the garage at my office, so I can commute unencumbererd.
I think, bottom line, that nothing will stop a determined thief. The best we can do is try to make stealing our bikes such a PIA that they'll go elsewhere.