Changing rear cassette

I have a century coming up that I am less than prepared for. I know I can sit on my bike for 100 miles but I haven't trained hills much at all. I've been going to spinning class and doing weights, however, so I'm not completely lost but still...

I am on an Orbea with Campy Veloce. It's a compact double with 50/34 in the front and 12-25 in the back. Is it possible to change the rear cassette to include a few larger gears? I think the rear would be easier to change than the front but would any of this require major work?

The alternative is to walk when I need to and exercise a lot more. I'm just looking for a quick and easy fix for the next couple of months! I'll ask my LBS but thought I'd throw it out here because there are so many knowledgeable people here.

Thanks! Yes, it's a pathetic stab at salvaging something, I'm not sure what.

Whether you can easily switch to a wider range cassette depends on your rear derailleur. They come in different cage length to accommodate different amounts of chain wrap. Find out your derailleur model, then look up the specs on it. You'll see there is a largest cog it can take and a maximum cog difference. If you can change to a wider range cassette within those specs, then go for it. You made need a few more chain links too, but your LBS can do that easily. If you want to go beyond those specs, then you need a new derailleur as well as cassette (and probably chain).

Changing a casette is very easy. All you need is a chain whip, and a special wrench (at least for shimano). If this is a one time thing it may be easier to pay your LBS to do it for you, especially if you purchase the casette from them. I know campy makes a veloce 13-29 cassette : http://www.biketiresdirect.com/produ...0196&c=9048331
, but as Deb said you will probably need to add several links to your chain (and if your chain is old it may be better to replace), and you may need a longer cage rear dearailleur. But, once you do that, you can also use the longer cage derailleur with a smaller casette, and if you learn how to do it yourself you can swap casettes to meet the terrain of the ride you are doing easily.

Thank you. I'm trying to find more info on the rear dearailleur. On my bike, it says simply "Campagnolo Veloce 10 Speed". From Orbea's website, it pretty much says the same thing:

http://www.orbea-usa.com/fly.aspx?mI...duct&taxId=241

I know with compact doubles, I should be able to climb better than what I am. Do you think it'd be worth it to try to change and maybe it's me and not the bike?

I did print out the cassette sizes to take to my LBS. I might go by there today after my ride though I'm thinking they're closed for Easter. Never hurts to check though! My other bike (since a bit parted out and retired) is an old Bianchi Alloro. It's a double but I had an emergency "climbing" gear put in the back. Honestly, I rode that thing everywhere and was ok with it. So maybe I'm wondering if it is me and maybe I'm attempting to modify the bike when I should be trying to modify my workouts :confused:

The Veloce 10 spd comes in a short cage or medium cage version. I didn't find specific tooth ranges on the campy web site. But I'd guess you've got the medium cage with a compact double front, in which case you can probably go to a 12-27 cassette without modification (other than chain links). Stop by your LBS and ask them.

I did talk my LBS and learned my options. I can go 13-26 with no modifications but that really doesn't add all that much. Or does it? I've been caught in my highest gear struggling several times lately and while one more would've been nice, I'm not sure that is the final solution because the hills I've been on haven't been that bad!

If I have the medium cage on my bike, is there a longer one? To get to a 13-29, I'd need the long one but I'm not finding it. Also, if I change this out, will anything be compromised? My bike rides well and shifts well and the last thing I want to do is mess with it and have it do things like lose chains, etc.

Does anyone have experience with this? Would I lose anything by changing this?

LBS, who will be looking at my bike later today, suggested swapping my 34 chainring to a 30. I am basically looking for the best climbing with the least impact to my bike. Cost isn't so much an issue as long as the bike rides correctly. Going from 30 to 50 while shifting seems a huge jump but as they said, it isn't that much worse than a 34 to 50.

Would it be better to change the front and leave the back alone?

DH will be escorting my bike and will be reporting back to me - I'm at work.

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Originally Posted by teigyr

Going from 30 to 50 while shifting seems a huge jump but as they said, it isn't that much worse than a 34 to 50..

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That sounds like very bad advice to me. I was advised the biggest jump you can have between front rings is 16 teeth, so a 50/34 is already at the limit of all known front derailleurs when my crank set was being built.

Thanks Triskeliongirl. The guy that suggested that was the person who orders the parts. When my bike got up there, three of them conferred and decided that the best thing was to change the cassette and dearailleur so I will have a 13-29 cassette. That 30 chainring sounded funny to me also especially because I already have to coax it to shift up as it is now.

It really is an awesome bike and I hope nothing is compromised by the changes but I can't put in as much time riding as I'd like and it's frustrating to be on a hill in my highest gear knowing that the hill better end because I can go no higher. I've always been so stubborn in not wanting a triple but I guess that is when I was in better shape. And who knows, I guess if I feel fits of stubbornness at a later time, I can put the old equipment back on :D

Even with a short cage you can use the 13-29 cassette PROVIDED that you don't use the 50 chain ring in the front with 29 cog on the cassette.

Need chain whip on a cassette :confused: :confused: I thought all you needed was the sprocket-wrench-thingy-magingy to loosen the lock ring that holds the cassette in place.

And definitly 30-50 chainring is a really BAD BAD idea.

Do check the spec on the rear dearailleur though. And good choice for a bike. Orbea is really nice.

smilingcat, I used to have the same type of deal on the Bianchi. When I moved to WA, the LBS here actually said they refused to leave the components on the bike due to the fact it was dangerous. I don't know who would go large gear to large gear....grrrr. I'm willing to pay for the change if it's for the best of the bike and I really really look forward to going on hills with less fear!

Thanks, I love the Orbea! The only thing that gets to me, sometimes, it is so noticeable. I have trouble riding as well as it looks :D

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Originally Posted by smilingcat

Even with a short cage you can use the 13-29 cassette PROVIDED that you don't use the 50 chain ring in the front with 29 cog on the cassette.

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But on rare occassions one may shift to the largest rear cog without remembering which front cog one is on. In that case, the chain would jam and it wouldn't be good. You may damage chain, derailleurs, cogs, or crash.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by smilingcat

Need chain whip on a cassette :confused: :confused: I thought all you needed was the sprocket-wrench-thingy-magingy to loosen the lock ring that holds the cassette in place.

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The cassette will freewheel in the direction you need to turn the lock-ring tool to remove the lock ring. A chain whip is required to keep the cassette from turning. To tighten the lock-ring, you don't need another tool.

DebW, I did think about that last night. We were discussing it and half the time I don't know what gear I'm in! Cost savings aren't worth damage to either me or the bike. I prefer riding in the larger front cog and could see me staying in that one as long as possible.

Thank you everyone for all your help! D-Day (or G-Day for gears!) is on tuesday. I am SO excited! It makes me want to go find some hills to conquer.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by DebW

But on rare occassions one may shift to the largest rear cog without remembering which front cog one is on. In that case, the chain would jam and it wouldn't be good. You may damage chain, derailleurs, cogs, or crash.



The cassette will freewheel in the direction you need to turn the lock-ring tool to remove the lock ring. A chain whip is required to keep the cassette from turning. To tighten the lock-ring, you don't need another tool.

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Hi Deb,

Yes if your chain is too short to span the 50 tooth chain ring and the 29 rear cog, you could damage several things including the rear derailleur. so you have to be really careful about it. In a race situation, would you be using a 29 cog?? I used to use 11/19 (11-12-13-14-15-17-19) a corn cob more or less (I think those were the sizes of cogs and before cassettes) and 39/53 chainring. As you can tell I'm dating myself ;) And if there were major climbs involved I woud opt for more normal clusters like 11/25

Maybe my memory is failing me. I haven't disassembled a bike in like 6 years or so. I quit riding back in 2001 and just started back up against wishes of my loved ones. I just take it easy these days and let LBS deal with bike maintenance.

Thanks, I wont throw away my chain whip or other parker tools. I think pedro's degreaser is still good after 6 years or so???...

Shawn