Upgrade from low-end mtb to a mid-range road bike - suggestions?

Hi everyone,

I am new and pretty clueless when it comes to road bikes. Reading all the info in the forums has me even more confused, so any and all "info for dummies" is great appreciated!

I'm training for a summer Italy bike tour. Right now I am using my 1996 Novara mountain bike, which I think cost me something like $300 or $400 new (and, boy, I thought that was expensive back then!). It is heavy and I have to REALLY REALLY work to get that thing up hills, and I live in an area that has plenty of them (hills)! Many times I find myself in the lowest gears (on my bike the gears are numbered 1-3 on the left and 1-7 on the right, so on really steep uphills I'll downshift to 1 on the left and 2 on the right). Going downhill I lose a ton of speed, so I usually gear up to the highest gears (3 and 7) and pedal like crazy. I don't understand anything other than the gear numbering I have, so not sure how this translates to a road bike.

I am 5'2" and weigh under 100 pounds. I've had a bike fit done for a mtb, but not a road bike yet. The LBS said I probably need a 48cm women's specific bike. I'll get a fit done on Friday.

I've been going out with a local bike club and I'm tired of being left in the dust. My longest ride so far has been 60 miles. My legs didn't hurt in the slightest - just my crotch! I thought I was going to die from crotch pain! Of course, I still have my original bike saddle on there . . . probably not the best (okay, definitely not the best)! I just feel as though I am riding through sand - have to work so hard to not go very fast.

With bikes costing what they do, I want this to be a wise purchase. I do not want to have to upgrade in couple years. $5,000 is the most I've ever spent on a car, let alone a bike! I'm thinking $2,000 for new. Is this reasonable? To keep cost down a bit, I've been hearing aluminum frame with carbon fiber fork and Ultegra components. Beyond that I don't know much.

I plan to continue riding after our tour. Mainly 20-60 mile rides on weekends . . .

I want to sound (and be) halfway knowledgable when I go to the LBS. I look forward to hearing your suggestions/comments. Thanks!

Welcome to TE!

You can get a darn good bike for $2k

look into those Rubys and also check out the Bianchi lady's bikes.

and put on the very top of your list a nice saddle, maybe even before the road bike!

and here's a whole thread about it:
http://forums.teamestrogen.com/showt...ht=bikes+women

And if you want full steel for cheap, try the Jamis Aurora. You can put smooth road tires on it, the geometry is great for touring, though the components are low-grade Shimano Tiagra and Deore, they aren't bad. It has all the braze-ons for fenders and racks.

http://www.jamisbikes.com/usa/bikes/...es/aurora.html

At least give one a test-ride so you can see how full steel feels. (I think it costs about $850) It's like butter. I nearly bought one. (I got a used lugged steel Waterford instead.)

You can also ask your bike shop about the Surly Long Haul Trucker (full steel) packages. There are 3 levels of components that can be ordered as packages from QBP. I think the very highest level is still under $2,000. Those are also lovely bikes, with a loyal following. http://www.surlybikes.com/lht_comp.html

Take a look at the various saddle threads for saddle ideas. Your first step is to measure your sit bones and figure out if you like wide nose/gradual shape or narrow nose/abrupt shape.

With that budget (and less) you can get a great road bike.

The setting you're talking about (alu + carbon) with Ultegra is great. You could do very well with 105 as well, and invest more in the accessories: great saddle, great bike shorts, good rigid cycling shoes (they make a world of difference on climbs, and you'll have lots of those in Italy) with automatic pedals, etc. Wheels also matter, but it's not my forte.

At your weight, the lighter bike will make a huge difference.

A good saddle and a good fit will also allow you to be much stronger. When you can't sit right on that bike, you can't really transfer the weight to the pedal.

Good luck! And get back to us with your shopping reports! Welcome to the wonderful world of TE.

Thanks! Well, I just got back from REI where I had them install my clipless pedals and got to practice clipping in and out a few times. I think I'm going to need to practice many more before venturing out on the road with them! Also bought some 1 inch slick tires. The salesguy said he used the same kind on his mountain bike for a long (multiple days) trip to Mt. Whitney. I never thought of using skinnier tires on a mtb. Guess I figured the weight of the bike would be prohibitive. We'll have to see!

Next will be the saddle. I did get some bike shorts with chamois last week and wore them on yesterday's ride. Didn't seem to make much of a difference, but again, I think I've got a crummy saddle, so probably nothing will make much difference until I get a better one! So, guess I need to measure my sit-bones (what an entertaining thread!) and then go test-ride some saddles! At least some of these things will transfer over to the new bike (pedals and saddle) . . .

I'm going to look into your other suggestions and, yes, I'll keep you posted! :) Thanks for the warm welcome.

for $2000.00 you will be able to get a great bike w/good components.

you've been given excellent advice here.

I can vouch for a steel frame. my road bike (my baby!) is steel frame w/carbon fork and carbon seat post (I'm trying top let my bones age w/minimal damage!). I really notice the difference of a steel frame at about mile 40. (my old road bike was aluminum w/carbon fork and carbon seat post--also a 49cm like my current road bike--too harsh after 40 miles).

the bottom line: test ride, test ride, test ride. get connected with a bike shop that will know what type of riding you will do...that will also treat you with respect, too.

saddles are personal, I know use a brooks on both my commuter and my road bike.

I have to agree about the steel, but I had a Jamis Quest which had a similar geometry to the Aurora, and I really can't recommend it for touring! I didn't like how the bars were so much lower than the seat. I think if you are touring, you would want the handlebars even with the seat like a Rivendell or Waterford. I bought a Women's specific frame and moved my Quest parts because I could get the bars up even with the seat only with a Delta Stem Raiser on the Jamis. Everyone is different, however. Make sure you try try try before you buy. If you go to the Rivendell site, they talk about seat height vs bar height. I learned a lot from it.

The Jamis Aurora I rode had handlebars about 1 inch higher than the seat. It was sooooo comfy! I was seriously tempted! Went back and test-rode that critter 3 times.

MicheleM- If you order a bike, make sure your bike shop knows you don't want them trimming the steerer until you're sure where you want the bars. The impression I've had lately is that most shops are leaving the tubes alone until the bike is purchased.

I was trying to decide between the Jamis Aurora and a Surly Long Haul Trucker (or Soma copy of the LHT), then Flossie the Waterford X-12 came into my life... and the rest is history!:p (BTW her bars are also about 1 inch higher than the seat thanks to the miracle of quilled stems)

This is the stem riser Uforgot mentioned. http://www.amazon.com/Delta-Alloy-Bi.../dp/B000FHBED0 It will add back steerer tube length without you having to buy a new fork with a longer steerer tube. If you have the option of a quilled stem, talk to your LBS. They are awfully convenient for adjustments.

Well, that's what I get for buying used! I would have loved it if my Jamis had had those high bars. Glad to know I can look for the long steerer tubes if I ever have that new bike feeling again. At any rate, our dialogue will help Michelem know a little bit more about the fit she wants!

So much great information! Thanks!

Yesterday, I brought my bike in to my physical therapy appointment and got a bike fit. He adjusted my new cleats and I could feel a difference right away (I've been practicing with them on the fluid trainer, but haven't yet gone on the road with them). Interestingly enough, he said he couldn't get the right-side alignment just right because of the triple chainring. With all the hills we have around here, I was really leaning toward getting a triple on whatever new bike I purchase. Anyone else have leg/knee/foot alignment problems with a triple?

Also, he raised the saddle and said I need to get a seatpost that is about two inches longer so we can raise it about another inch. The LBS had lowered the seat when I was fitted there (this was before I got the clipless pedals. Their reasoning was that I wasn't pedaling with the heels down. P/T says that this is a mistake some bike fitters make, as they expect everyone to use the heel-down style of pedal stroke. He would have liked to lower the handlebars more, but they are as low as this bike allows and he's trying to keep the cost down since I probably won't be sticking with this bike for too much longer. Oh, he also said I need a skinnier saddle as my existing saddle is too wide.

Last but not least he pointed out that I was keeping my back too rigid and almost swayed when pedaling, which puts more pressure on the neck. He showed me how to hold my back correctly and what a world of difference!

This weekend my mother is in town for Easter, so I am hoping to start bike shopping next weekend. None of the bike shops in our area carry Cannondale anymore and I really want to try one out! I hear it's because Cannondale got into some financial trouble. Seems the closest shop to carry Cannondale is about 2 hours away. Anyway, one LBS carries Specialized and Trek and the other carries Giant and Bianchi, so I guess that should keep me busy to start out. No Jamis dealers in the area either. Closest is about 45 minutes away (without traffic). I guess that's not too too far.

I'm really enjoying reading all of your suggestions. Thanks again! :)

How funny. I just came across the specs for my current bike. No wonder it's so hard to ride! :p

Novara M-1000 1997

BB Shell Width: 68mm English

BB Spindle Length: 122.5 mm

Bicycle Type: mountain bike, non-suspension

Bottom Bracket: 122.5 mm spindle

Brake Levers: Shimano Altus

Brakeset: Tektro 860AG brakes, Shimano Altus levers

Chain: KMC HG-50, 1/2 x 3/32"

Chain Size: 1/2 x 3/32"

Chainrings: 28/38/48

Chainstay Length: 16.9"

Colors: Bay City Blue

Component Group: Shimano Tourney TY-30

Crankset: Tracer, 28/38/48 teeth

Fork Brand & Model: Spinner

Fork Crown: unicrown

Fork Material: hi-tensile steel, unicrown crown

Fork Rake: 1.90"

Fork Travel:

Frame Angles: 72.0 head, 72.0 seat

Frame Construction: TIG-welded

Frame Tubing Material: hi-tensile steel

Front Brake: Tektro 860AG

Front Brake Lever: Shimano Altus

Front Derailleur: Shimano Tourney TY-30

Front Derailleur Type: Unspecified

Handlebar: Alico YC-211

Handlebar Extensions: Not included

Handlebar Stem: Alico YC-401

Head Tube Angle: 72.0

Headset: 1" Chin Haur steel

Headset Diameter: 1"

Hub Front: Formula FM 31

Hub Rear: Formula FM 31

Hubs: Formula FM 31

Largest Rear Cog: 28

Num Rear Cogs: 7-speed

Pedals: Victor VP-893

Rear Brake: Tektro 860AG

Rear Brake Lever: Shimano Altus

Rear Cogs: 7-speed, 14 - 28 teeth

Rear Derailleur: Shimano Tourney TY-30

Rear Shock: Not applicable

Rear Shock Travel: Not applicable

Rim Front: Alex MP-19

Rim Rear: Alex MP-19

Rims: Alex MP-19, 36-hole

Saddle: Viscount 9710

Seat Post Diameter: 26.0 mm

Seat Tube Angle: 72.0

Seatpost: steel, 26.0 mm diameter

Shift Levers: Shimano Altus EZ Fire

Sizes: large, medium, small, xlarge

Smallest Rear Cog: 14

Spoke Brand: Shuhn Lih steel, 2.0mm straight gauge

Spoke Gauge: 2.0mm

Spoke Holes: 36-hole

Spoke Material: steel

Spoke Nipples: brass nipples

Spoke Type: straight gauge

Sugg Retail: 295.00

Tire Front: Maxxis

Tire Rear: Maxxis

Tire Size Front: 26 x 1.95"

Tire Size Rear: 26 x 1.95"

Tires: 26 x 1.95" Maxxis

Top Tube Length: 22.2"

Weight: 29.0

Wheelbase: 41.4"