How do you use your cadence monitor?

At the beginning of last year I replaced my broken computer for one that had the cadence monitor. I used to just stare at the thing and suffer trying to keep my cadence up. I finally just quit looking at the cadence and started enjoying my rides more. I usually don't look at it much until the end of the ride. I log all the info after my rides. I've found that the cadence info really is pretty useless. It shows avg. cad. and max. cad. Well the avg. cad. takes into account the time you are coasting. So this info is pretty useless isn't it? Seems like the manufacturers should make it to where it doesn't register if cadence is zero. Otjerwise you really don't know what your real average cadence is.

So how do you use your cadence monitor? Seems like it would only be useful if you are doing interval work...which I haven't been able to bring myself to do. I still just go out and ride. Every time I think about a "training ride" it seems like the fun is sucked out of it.

Mine does a great job of using up drawer space. I can count my cadence pretty well in my head.

I pay no attention to average or max cadence. In fact, at this point, I don't pay a whole lotta attention to cadence in general. I found it useful when I first started riding to measure how I was doing. After enough riding though, I developed a pretty good feel for where I am cadence-wise. I also have some favorite gears that I know, depending on the wind and road conditions, allow me to spin my preferred cadence.

I also sometimes use cadence and my HRM during climbing. I'm not a great climbing either from a strength or aerobic standpoint, so I sometimes use both my cadence and heartrate to figure out what works best for me during
a climb. I tend to rely more on the HRM for that though.

I haven't done, although I plan to, interval training so it may come into play there too. I just don't have any experience with that yet.

My cadence monitor does not average in coasting.

Sometimes I use mine on a climb to work on spinning and strength. I will climb up Mount Diablo (6 miles to the Junction 5 - 8 % grade) working on keeping my cadence above 90.

I always find it helpful when doing a Spinervals session.

V.

Me also, I watch my cadence more when working out to in my case, the Carmichael DVD. When riding outdoors, I every once in a while look at it just to see "about" what I am doing but ride on my bodies own agenda, and not let the computer overall dominate my ride.

here's a little science behind cadence and why candence is important - if you choose to use it. not a big deal if you don't :)

the big thing with cadence can best be seen between Jan Ullrich and Lance Armstrong. Jan is known for his low cadence riding and climbing whereas Lance is well known for his high cadence - especially climbing.

if you're pedalling a hard gear and your cadence is lower, your speed (i use the word speed loosely) is more of a result of the power from your legs into the pedals. power is predominantly a function energy and strength.

spinning at a higher cadence is more aerobically based and requires much less power and therefore less energy at a given speed than someone riding at a lower cadence.

of course personal preference as well as genetics (i.e. dominant muscle fiber makeup - slow twitch vs. fast twitch) plays into how fast or slow you pedal and which is more comfortable for you.

but it really boils down to: if 2 people are riding at a given speed or pace, the person pedalling at a higher cadence (of course within reason, let's say 95 rpms) is putting out less energy than the one riding at 80 rpms. this is very important in racing because in almost any case, the person who saves the most energy has the best chance at winning - all other factors aside.

hope this helps :)

My cadence monitor has been broken (wires) for a little while so I haven't been using it. However I much enjoyed it back in the days. I find that when I'm not paying attention and becoming tired, it's often related to my cadence dropping to the 70s. When I notice it, I downshift to an easier gear, spin at about 90rpm, and my morale is on the rise again!

I think I'll work on fixing it after my race this weekend.

I focus on cadance more on the rollers than on the road. On the road, I suffer from "TMI" - Too much information - with my Garmin, so it's there for me to peek at every so often, but I try not to think about it. I used it initially to help me learn the "feel" of certain cadance levels I was aiming for (around 90 rpm, ususally) and to try to keep my cadance up on those long slogging uphills.

i'm with equus, i always want to know my cadence. i mostly use "perceived effort" at a specific cadence to gage how hard i'm working, so i keep my cadence above 90 and work on a sustained effort at that pace.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by li10up

It shows avg. cad. and max. cad. Well the avg. cad. takes into account the time you are coasting. So this info is pretty useless isn't it?

---

I use my cadence monitor religiously when I'm doing indoor training. Outdoors I use it as a confirmation that I'm spinning not grinding. I just peak now and then.

I have NEVER heard of a cadence monitor that averages in coasting time. I would double check on that.

I used mine last year during time trials... I'd shift between a couple of gears that would allow me to spin in the 90s range... I don't have a heart rate moniter... I tried to keep my level of effort up, so I wasn't just spinning an easy gear. Pushing a harder gear would've burned out my legs quicker and that's the best way that I could figure out how to moniter my effort rather than paying attention specifically to my mph. And I just went by perceived heart rate level anyway...

Our course is pancake flat, the only hard thing is turning around on a narrow road.

I use my cadence monitor a lot for it helps me ride more efficiently, IMO. I try to keep my cadence somewhere between 90 and 100 rpm on flat roads and somewhere in the 70's - 80's when climbing. That is not to say it does not drop below my desired ranges on flat or hills. I simply set my goals and try to maintain. I do find when I stay within my desired ranges I typically feel better good when I get off my bike.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by makbike

I use my cadence monitor a lot for it helps me ride more efficiently, IMO.

---

That's pretty much my reason, too, along with what Grog said about shifting gears based on my cadence. It's also a convenient tool for playing around with different training methods:

I used Sheldon Brown's gear calculator to create a chart I taped to my stem. Beginning with the knowledge that my average comfortably sustainable cadence is 90rpm, I can look at the cadence on my computer and know exactly what gear I'm in. Then, if I want to work a little harder and build some muscle, I can click up into a harder gear and try to maintain 90rpm. If I need a rest or want to work more aerobically, I can shift down to a lower gear and spin over 100rpm. Or, if I want to work on smoothing my pedal stroke, I can shift to that lower gear and continue spinning at 90rpm. Doing so without bouncing really forces you to focus on your stroke.

This article from Sheldon talks about both gearing and cadence, and gets a bit into what equus was explaining: Understanding your gears.

I'm with Regina, I use cadence mostly on the trainer. However, outside it's often a reminder to me that I should be shifting to another rear (cadence greater than 99 or lower than 70)

I use my cadence monitor to help build my endurance base on my trainer. I have a target cadence (80-85 rpm) and a target heart rate (less than 70% MHR) and ride a predetermined amount of time (usually 1+ hours) while staying in those ranges. Speed and distance don't matter to me.